I searched and found a couple of threads on this but nothing that specifically replicates the issue I'm having.. pulled the latch to open the trunk and it opens halfway and stops. I push it up the rest of the way then press the button to close it and nothing. (pretty sure the button light is usually illuminated, mines dead). Tried the key and button inside car to no avail. Started the car and I start seeing error messages cycle, "right side plate lamp" "left side plate lamp" "center brake light". Had to run a quick errand and after shutting the car off and turning it back on the error messages disappeared and haven't come back but the trunk will still only open halfway, and will not close unless I manually shut it. Tried checking for a blown fuse but the fuse map doesn't specifically mention which fuse goes to the trunk motor. I have a warranty but was hoping to save a trip to the stealer. TIA.

 

It could be the trunk lid wiring harness needs rerouting, control module needs replacement with modified version, or potentiometer needs replacement. I would suggest you take advantage of the warranty rather than DIY - SDS should identify problem via stored fault code(s).

 

Reminds me of the kinds of gremlins that show up when the rear SAM module is acting up. Costs about $350 at parts.com but someone with Star has to code the new part. Might want to do a search on rear SAM.

 

You can have my trunk if you buy my car Scott...haha...Do you go to PP..? Ed Bonelli has always been really cool about my warranty stuff. Maybe you can snag one of the awesome GLK loaners

 

Has a simialr problem with mine. Turned out to be a bad wire to the trunk. I don't remember exactly how much it cost to fix, but I didn't have a heart attack when I got the bill.

 

Same exact problem occurred with my trunk this morning....

Has anyone narrowed down what the exact problem is? Mine opens and then stops half way... then i open it fully. The trunk close button still works to close though...

 

the e55 is prone to having trunk wires cut...trace the wires

 

same thing happened to me and was about an hour fix. Look for wiring harness on left hinge. Mine had a shredded wire.

 

Mine opens but stops halfway. My Auto trunk closer still works though. Is this still the same problem? It seems that most of you guys had your autoclose button go dead as well. Please chime in.

THanks,

 

+1

 

I had the same problem. One of the wires in the harness was pinched causing the trunk opener to short out. My warranty covered the repair and I was in and out in under an hour.

 

The trunk has a restricted height setting which keeps it from going all the way up. To change back, push the trunk opening button on the drivers side door and hold for 5 seconds. This will turn off the trunk height restriction. I had the same problem, and the owners manual was very unclear on how to reset. I did this and my trunk now opens all the way.

 

Same issue fixed under warranty ... Harness was snagged ...

 

same here.. I also lost my third brake light because of it..

 

where can I find this wiring harness? Which panels does it route under? I'm having this issue intermitently too. The trunk opening switch also doesn't unlock by itself anymore when physically trying to open the trunk by pressing the switch above the licenseplate.

 

you know what's funny? When I press on the brake pedal now, it pops open my trunk..definitely a short somewhere between the brake light and the lock.

 

its on the drivers side trunk strut.. you just pull off the plastic cover and drivers side carpet.. you'll see the wiring harness under there.. You'll be able to see where the wiring harness snags on the spring mechanism.

 

My trunk is driving me nuts...! Sometimes it opens perfectly, sometimes it wont. I tried to open it today using the key fob. I clicked OPEN, and it unlatched, but didn't open. I opened it manually and then tried to shut it... but it wouldn't so I tried to just shut it by hand.... no joy. It wouldn't close. then all of a sudden, it opened all the way nd I was able to close it using the button on the trunk. I tested it about 10 times and it worked perfectly each time but on the final test open/shut, the entire truck stayed open and there was nothing I could do to get it to close. I guess I will have my first service appointment on my E55. I'm glad I have the CPO warranty.

 

Im having the same issues, third brake light out, left and right lamp out, interior trunk lights out, trunk switch to open not working. I will check the wiring on the left strut of trunk for snags.


will report back

thanks

 

my money is on trunk wires cut will be the problem

 

after reading posts here, I also checked my wiring harness in the trunk, as my interior trunk lights and license lamps and 3rd brake light were not working nor was the trunk opening electronically.

I pulled the interior panel off of the trunk lid and removed the hinge plastic covers, I then removed 2 plastic rivet holders on the left side of trunk holding the side interior panel on, where the 12volt receptacle is. I gently pulled the panel down, but did not remove and found my broken power wire, Mine was brown in color, completely fractured and severed. I spliced it back together with an electrical connector and suddenly had interior lights back on. I should have used a soder gun (spelling) to repair wire but it was late and wife needed car the next day and all is working fine now.

 

I had the same exact problem, loss of electronic trunk, 3rd brake light and both license plate lights. Had an appointment at dealership thsi weekend to get it fixed but decided to take a look. Took off panels as stated above and sure enough thick solid brown wire and thin solid brown wire were severed. Soldered them back together and all problems solved. Took about half hr.

 

My trunk close lights are not illuminating. My trunk closes fine from the inside, and all the other lights are fine.

Also, if I move the trunk around, the close lights illuminate at some angle. So, I am sure I have the wire problem.

I removed the trunk lid, and the plastic underneath it to expose the battery. Where do I go from there? Can someone please post the picture of the offending wire and its location? Do I have to remove something else? The toolbox etc in order to get to it?

Thanks in advance.

 

Your in the wrong spot...remove the liner from the trunk lid itself. Then remove the plastic covering the left side trunk arm. Next pull the top plugs out of the left side capeting and peel it back. You will then see all the wires that run down the arm and into the rear SAM unit. On the arm there will be a zip tie holding the wires to the trunk arm. Cut that and peel back the wire loom/covering..you will see your damaged wires there.

 

I'm having a similar issue. When I open the trunk it pops open, but does not raise. I then have to open manually. Then the close button will not close the trunk. The odd thing is that the trunk functions perfectly around 70% of the time. The issue only occurs periodically.

I took it to the dealer and they found two wires with broken insulation, but also said "performed electrical tests on trunk lid locking eye motor, found motor to have electrical failure.". This part and labor was some ridiculous price, so I declined the repairs. Since my trunk always locks, it seems odd that this is a lock motor issue. The trunk just doesn't open and close properly. Does this seem like a likely issue? The wire seem like the main issue, but they said I needed both items repaired.

They also said there were some codes stored on the issue. The paperwork doesn't note any codes.