MB_Forever

I was only giving prices for parts that have been proven on the track and not just dyno. There are literally hundreds of parts and configurations showing 550 rwhp dynos but only one set of parts and tune have been shown to get the E55s into the 10s. In fact, I believe there are only 2 or 3 E55s are in the 10s currently. Both have almost the same parts and are using mods and tunes that have been proven:

ASP 180mm Pulley (newest model) = $900
82 mm TB = $2000
Chris's long-tube headers = $2500
Cooling mods: good size HE + good size rear reservoir + good aftermarket pump = at least $1000
Jeremy's custom tune = $1000 to $1500
A few exhaust mods (race cats, x-pipe, resonator, etc...) = $500

The pricing above is not concrete and all depends on where you get the parts and whether you can negotiate a better deal or not. But the above parts and tunes have been shown to accomplish high 10s to low 11s with ease...

By the way, the above pricing does not include installation and of course the most important mod to get you into the 10s: wheels and tires:

- CCW custom drag wheels + MT or Hoosiers drag radials.

I would say $7,000 to $9,000 is a fair estimate.

Hammer Down

I love a challenge and I love to go against the grain. After my car runs 11.69 or better I will start to mod. I want to see how close I can get to the 10's without spending $7-9k. Can it be done we will have to wait and see

beauphus

I have spent considerably more then 15k, have considerably more mods then those listed, and have had multiple custom tunes by one of the best in the biz and I barely come close to the 560hp/620tq numbers. Goes to show that dyno doesnt mean jack *****...

Or I am just a loser who spent his money on all the wrong parts (Renntech, MBH, PTE, etc)

MB_Forever

It maybe possible, but to do it consistently and reliably, it would require certain mods and certain steps that thanks to Alan and others are standard packages now .

Keep in mind that you're likely half way there.... you spent about $1000 for rims + tires although on our cars I think your wheel/tire setup is not as optimal as Alan, MikesAmg, and Mikey's, so you may have to switch to the 16s setup and give it a shot. Then you're about to spend $2500 to $3000 for a good set of long-tube headers + $300 for possibly race cats and x-pipe and installation.

The above setup may net you 11.3 to 11.4, but the best way to start dipping into the 10s (or lower) is that violent extra push you get off the line from the 180 mm pulley. I think the 180 mm pulley would allow you to start cutting 1.5x 60' times, which hopefully gets you your 10s. But adding the pulley and a good (2 to 3 hour custom tune) is roughly another $2k.

The above maybe okay to dip into the 10s a couple of times, but if you want the car to run more consistently and reliably, many would suggest a minimal type of cooling mod: maybe Heat Exchanger + an upgraded pump. And if you want to really chase that top-end, you may have to add the 82 mm TB.

Of course, the above estimates do not even include a good differential or any additional intake mods

Hammer Down

I spent $500 total on a set OEM MB wheels & MT Drag Radials and that's it! and I am butt hair away from 11.69

KLR CLS

I think the OP's question was cost to reach 500WHP. We all know power means nothing if you cannot's translate it in to grip and forward acceleration(unless you are simply trying to make a very expensive smoke machine), but hat wasn't the question.
Earlier today a member posted dyno 470whp and 540wtq on a mustang dyno with just Headers, 168 pulley and a tune.
( https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...e-headers.html)

I spent $1650 for the same Headers and a VRP 175 pulley kit which would net closer to 490whp do to more boost. Tune is another $500 on top of that. I find it rediculous that people are willing to spend huge amounts of money just because its a "Mercedes". If you use your head, are patient, and can turn a wrench there is no reason 500whp should cost more the 3K with all supporting mods. If you want to go to Renntech and drop 10K to do the same, go right ahead...

Hammer Down

I chopped some of it but I agree with you. I've always said anyone can throw money at it to make it go faster but if people take the time to learn their car and how to keep it running correctly they may be surprised on how quick the car can be in stock form. Combine that with a ton of launching practice and some drag radials and you are on your way to quicker times. Some may disagree and that's cool but et's don't lie.

MB_Forever

MT Drag Radials are $240 per tire ($480) without taxes, shipping, or installation? Did you get the rims for free? Please remember, the figures discussed above were for new parts not used. If you decide to go the used route, then of course the amount will be a fraction of the cost.... just like buying a used E55 versus new.

Hammer Down

I bought the drag radials on ebay $400 brand new and the rims off of ebay brand new $100. The wheels was just one of those auctions that no one bid on and I got them for $100 brand new 2 piece OEM factory 17" wheels. 400 + 100 = 500 anyday of the week and you can get the MT's from mccormackracing on ebay for $418 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/275-4...item53e0b91f72 the 17's are $80 cheaper than the 18's not to mention they are wider.

Lopes80

I think i have done well over $10k on Kleemann/Reentech/Floored products, its a bit sick actually, I don't even want to add it all up!

One thing I can honestly say is that I'm extremely happy with the car, in the end that's all that matters!

MB_Forever

Nice deal... but if they were one of those rare auctions/deals, then they would not be "easily" replicated for everyone

How about shipping, mounting, balancing, installation, etc... the cheapest OEM 17" Mercedes I found on e-bay was $250 and even then, it looked questionable

Per that link, $219 for each tire tire x 2 = $438 so around $450 installed. Rims were $100 + $30 shipping = $130 and you're closer to $600 but that's assuming one can easily get both rims for $100 brand new OEM rims

Also keep in mind that even though your tire setup is good, it is not optimal. The setup that has been proven over and again will require more expensive rims and tires

Hammer Down

this is true, you definitely have to SEARCH for the deals

I bought my wheels back in Oct of last year, ok if you count all of that junk then it may have cost me another $100 shipping & mounting ok so $600

Hammer Down

hey that's what friends are for why buy them when i can rent them from Alan (he's the type of guy and you know this that will let you borrow his setup for a couple of passes) my next time out i'm gonna ask him if i can borrow his front & rear wheels and his 10lb battery and if i like the results i will buy my own set to get ready for the headers later on this year. I think the drag setup that I was quoted was something like 1500-1600. So lets see where I get if I spend $5k on headers & wheels and I do like what I hear about speedrivens TCU upgrade. I address the cars weaks spots, traction, breathing and shifting. So I could see $7k for me without even adding the famous pulley/tune combo. (against the grain) I will definitely keep a tab and once I am done I will let everyone know how much it cost me to get close to the 10's

MB_Forever

Wait till you switch to the CCW setup

EDIT: oops, you beat me by the post above.

Hammer Down

that's cause I'm quick Mo don't you know!

MB_Forever

Yeah.... trust me, it adds up quick You're lucky you have an E55 because trying to mod an E63 and extract a 100 whp out of it is almost impossible even with $50k

cahiil55k

Yes, SAE adjusted to 0.98 and smoothing set to 5. I've trapped ~123 on separate 1800' DA and 97% humidity days so I think it's pretty close.

bassn_07

I'm always willing to lend a helping hand to others as they have to me. I was able to achieve (2) 1.62's with your setup on my car. The best I've done with my setup has been a 1.585. I'm sure if I was given more time with your setup I would have came up with a sub 1.6 60.

You are more then welcome to borrow my light weight battery any time you wish. It's actually a 18 lb battery and it's time to get a new one. I'll probably be picking up a heavier duty one for the track due to the demands of the MB system. After that you are running out of options and it's almost time to start modding if you want faster times. I don't think any type of intake would help since the filters are already removed and the only other weight reduction you could do would be removing the seats.

I also wouldn't recommend long tube headers without a tune but it seems many have done it. I'm not sure why you wouldn't want to optimize your mods after spending several thousand dollars on aftermarket parts, if you do so. IMO a tune is what ties everything together...money well spent. You already know who I would recommend.....