zangief44

So it turns out my 2005 E55 alternator went dead. I was happy to find a Beck Arnley replacement for $199 - but alas, a day later I was informed the parts retailer was out of stock - and seems all parts guys are out of the Beck Arnley part. I was able to find a cheap 2005 SLK55 alternator on eBay with a 1 year warranty - does anyone know if it's compatible with the E55 - same amps - but does it fit? This is the one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=290394327548

What about an E350 alternator - is that not compatible? This is an example I have: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCE...Q5fAccessories

If neither is compatible, does anyone have a good source where I can get a replacement alternator and not pay the $800 from the dealer? I don't want used, but a remanufactured one with at least a 3-month warranty is fine - or even a used one with a 12/24 month warranty. As long as it provides enough current and is a direct replacement, I don't really care who makes it. Thanks for the input.

Roverron

i have your part number as (A 012 154 89 02) and the new replacement part number is (A 013 154 85 02)
Did you try to price having yours rebuilt? EPC shows it in parts so it should be able to be rebuilt.

zangief44

Bosch/ACDelco part number is 334-2574 and thanks for the MB part number, RoverRon

Yacht Master

I think you are on the wrong track.
How do you know the alternator is dead?
How have you ruled out a bad voltage regulator/brush set?

zangief44

I took the car to autozone who said the alternator was bad, putting out a little under 11v. I then took it to my mechanic - who is not a Benz only mechanic, but who's worked on all of my cars and does a great job - and he tested and told me it was the alternator indeed. Could a bad voltage regulator appear to be a bad alternator in that test and could it so easily fool a mechanic? Is there a good way to test just the voltage regulator to eliminate that possibility? In that case should I call up the mechanic and confirm he does the voltage regulator test?

cls55

change the voltage regulator in the trunk,it`s cheaper then check the alt.

Yacht Master

The voltage regulator is located in the alternator.
It is easy to change.
90% of the time a new regulator solves charging problems.
Here is a good read.
http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/alternator.htm

zangief44

Sorry for being confused - and thanks for the explanation - so if I buy a new alternator and replace the old one, does that by default replace the voltage regulator that's attached to it - or is it a separate part I buy separately? I also read from some people that the regulator is in the trunk and some say it's attached - are there 2 regulators? Is one actually the "voltage regulator" and the other is called something else (like a battery regulator, etc)?

Yacht Master

Voltage regulator is inside the alternator and costs about $50.
A new alternator is (a real new Bosch) dealer net is $600.
Your choice, I would go the new regulator route cause you can change it out in 10 minutes while the alternator is in the car.
The Bosch Alternator is of the highest quality and will last 20 years 250,000 miles the voltage regulator on the other hand only lasts 60-80,000 miles, the reason is that the regulator also houses the brushes that are a wear item.

Here is information on battery controls that are not in the alternator.
http://www.mercedestechstore.com/pdf...2011-29-02.pdf

zangief44

Thanks, Yacht Master. Do you have a DIY or diagram on changing out the just the voltage regulator, sounds like it's the way to go first?

mikekuriger

Crap. I bought a new one from the dealer not long ago!. UGH

zangief44

Mike, knowing my luck it's the regulator and the rest of the alternator too, but it's nice to at least hope for a little bit it's the cheaper regulator

.trunzx

I was getting a weird pulsating/fading on all the lights on the car so I attempted to replace the voltage regulator. Unfortunately the screws on the back were stripped. I eventually bought a new alternator/battery and everything works as it should. The part number is 013 154 85 02 88 and the Bosch part numbers for this alternator are AL0826N and AL0826X. I don't think the SLK or regular E-class alternator will work.

I ended up buying it from here: http://www.aboveallmotorwerks.com/pr...n=013154850288, shipping was pretty quick.

soundeffects

I removed the voltage regulator by jacking the car up with a flashlight tied to my hat, and changed it from the bottom of the car with leaving the alternator installed the whole time. Takes about 30-60 minutes depending how good you are. Solved my problems...I also HAD TO CHANGE THE BATTERY.

The battery was testing ok but I knew it was just not charging properly and sure enough new battery fixed everything because it was being overworked by the ****ty voltage regulator in the alternator.

By the way it appears my car already had the alternator repaired under warranty in 2006 so this was the second issue.

Yacht Master

My friend MarcusF has a DIY here,
http://www.marcusfitzhugh.com/CLK/DIY/alt.html

zangief44

Ok, got my car back in driving shape, wanted to sum it all up. So I got the voltage regulator, had my mechanic put it in and...nothing. Turns out it was something else inside the alternator, not the voltage regulator. Had an independent Benz shop check just in case and that was it. The quote from dealer was $660 for alternator plus about $300 in labor. The independent Benz shop could get one for $440, the cheapest online I could find was $375 with 1yr warranty from Rock Auto. I was about to settle on that, when I happened to drive by AutoZone and checked with them. They had one for $205! Remanufactured, but lifetime warranty! I could hardly believe it, but they guaranteed it, I took the risk, they special ordered it, took 48 hours to get here. Had my mechanic put it in for $150 labor - and bam, everything fit perfectly and the car has been good since. So it cost me $355 total (with lifetime warranty) v. $1000 at dealer (2yr warranty) (there was the little $ detour with voltage regulator, but oh well, it was a calculated risk). So, if you know you need an alternator, sounds like AutoZone is the way to go. Also, if anyone needs a new voltage regulator (I pulled it back out), I can sell it for $30, incl. shipping (dealer was $62 plus tax). Thanks for everyone's input.

mikekuriger

good to know! my dealer told me I would not be able to get one at autozone. asdkfalsdkfdlasjkfhdasjfhklsdjafhjkl1!!!@

zangief44

The one at Autozone was Bosch as well - I did not compare side by side, as one was installed and one was in my hands at any one time, but I would say they were pretty much identical. I also got the battery replaced as they were over 3 years old (both front and back), which the dealer said you had to get from them. The front is a 14BS AGM battery from Autozone for $69.99, the rear one Autozone said they had for $140, but I got one from PepBoys for $99.99 - a Bosch of identical shape to OEM one and even a vent hole. I think if a reputable auto chain has a fit for the e55 and it's a Bosch, it's a pretty safe bet, as Bosch seems to make most electrical components for these cars.

NORCAL///AMG

Did a little research and found that the battery is not a AGM battery but a "Wet Cell" type. In short, AGM is the standard equipment type that came with vehicle and does not need outside venting. According to the manufacturer of the Bosch battery - which is actually Exide Technologies - the battery (49-850B) should be vented to the outside of the vehicle. The battery will work BUT is not the recommended one because it is located in the trunk - which is still IN the vehicle.

Yacht Master

Glad to see your back up and running, sorry it was not the regulator, I have no doubt someone will read this thread and buy your new regulator.
Make sure your new battery is vented to out side of the spare tire well, the gas produced by battery is explosive.

zangief44

Interesting stuff on the AGM v. wet-cell, I didn't know. The interesting thing is, the old battery, which had "Mercedes-Benz" logos on it, hence I assume is OEM, had a spout to which a clear plastic hose was connected, leading down into the wheel well and outside. The new battery had the little spout in the same spot (and it is indeed the model mentioned above), so I just reconnected the hose. I wonder why MB has the vent hose attached to an AGM battery - is the logic, "it's inside, so just in case" - I am assuming all of you have the venting hose attached to the battery (I bought the car used, so assumed it's standard)? In any case, I have the hose connected and have not smelled any fumes in the trunk at all, so I think $99 is a fantastic deal. As long as it stays that way and gives me a few years of life (batteries here in AZ die FAST), I'll be happy. If I ever smell something funny, that'll be another post

G Man

Went to buy an alternator from Autozone today and it is no longer available through them. Damn! Rock Auto had it for $376 new, or $240 reman..

pearlpower

Try a local rebuilder. They can work wonders even putting in a higher amp version if the need arises.