Quick IAT Question in Summer Heat and Humidity
#1
Quick IAT Question in Summer Heat and Humidity
Hey guys, just wanting to compare numbers here. My cars IAT is sitting at 57 celsius 135f while cruising around. And at 169 Celsius while under wot and sometimes spikes 173 or 163f. This is Atlanta weather at about 90f outside and high humidity. My cooling system is stand alone with johnsons pump, resevoir, and bigger heat exchanger. It seems way to high to me so Im wondering if my pump is going weak. Anything to compare it to would be great. THANKS
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
I will log my car and see,IM stock boost with cooling mods.today was not that hot tho,about 70 out.
I remember last summer I was at 100-104 driving around with about 85 out and would climb to 138-145 under wot,you might want to bleed your setup and see if that helps.
I remember last summer I was at 100-104 driving around with about 85 out and would climb to 138-145 under wot,you might want to bleed your setup and see if that helps.
#3
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Seems to high.. You may have some air or a pump issue.. I run 12-20 degrees over ambient in 95-98 deg. heat.. I have not seen over 140 under WOT..
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
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#4
Thanks guys its a custom set up I built and havent experianced these high of Ambient temps on this setup but it seemed to high to me. Also does anyone know how much force the pump should be putting out? I pulled a line the other day and it had ood volume but when I put my finger over it it didnt push hard. So I disassembled the pump ran it and put some resistence on the impeller and it's spinning hard as can by. Also I have tried bleeding the air out does anyone know a real successful method of this? Also one more time which way should the system run resevoir-pump-intercooler-heat exchanger-resevoir?
#5
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K3 05 E55 sold, 09 GL550
Seem like a bit high . Why don't you mix 10oz or 12oz water wetter into MB antifreeze coolant of ur E Im sure your temp will drop down a lot. What size of the Johnson pump you have ? if you had CM30 so why not try CM90 which is bigger and remember wire it run all time whenever you start the car .
#6
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CLS55 & CL CK60
without meth i see 190 WOT and with meth i see 100 WOT. just logged this weekend. i also have reservoir, H/E, 2 pumps, and a lot of mods that make a lot of heat...
#7
Okay makes me feel alittle bit more at ease I was thinking of running a spray cooler setup. I have a 185 pulley, long tube kleemann, custom exhaust no cats, 82 mm tb, bigger injectors, and a tune. I also set my fans to come on 10 degrees sooner Im just starting to believe that my flash temps are always going to be a little high unless I ice the resevoir but this is my almost daily driver. Has anyone set up an aux fan on there HE? Its a cm90 pump also
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
the 2 pumps might be hurting you,not enough time for the water to cool down and your rushing it threw the heatexchanger and its just staying heatsoaked.
dosnt the s/c shut down at 195? is that 190 temp after like really beating the car,like 5 pulls racing on the highway or just one quick wot pull?
edit can you tell me what meth kit your running and if you have anypics of your setup would be great.Iv been thinking of running that stuff for a while now
Last edited by skratch77; 07-01-2010 at 11:13 PM.
#10
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2003 E55 & 2014 GL550
How are your lines going past the headers/exhaust up to the front HE?
It's usually a pretty close fit. Double check that you are not making contact and one of your lines is melted limiting flow.
Your flow should be better than that.
Might be bubble. I still don't know how you one pump guys are doing it. I needed one in front pushing back and one in the back pushing forward.
Never could get mine flowing correctly with just the one in the back.
Not saying it can't be done, just maybe I had mine hooked up wrong or something.
It's usually a pretty close fit. Double check that you are not making contact and one of your lines is melted limiting flow.
Your flow should be better than that.
Might be bubble. I still don't know how you one pump guys are doing it. I needed one in front pushing back and one in the back pushing forward.
Never could get mine flowing correctly with just the one in the back.
Not saying it can't be done, just maybe I had mine hooked up wrong or something.
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#11
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CLS55 & CL CK60
what size pulley are you running? 190F is hotter than I was running with a dead pump.
the 2 pumps might be hurting you,not enough time for the water to cool down and your rushing it threw the heatexchanger and its just staying heatsoaked.
dosnt the s/c shut down at 195? is that 190 temp after like really beating the car,like 5 pulls racing on the highway or just one quick wot pull?
edit can you tell me what meth kit your running and if you have anypics of your setup would be great.Iv been thinking of running that stuff for a while now
the 2 pumps might be hurting you,not enough time for the water to cool down and your rushing it threw the heatexchanger and its just staying heatsoaked.
dosnt the s/c shut down at 195? is that 190 temp after like really beating the car,like 5 pulls racing on the highway or just one quick wot pull?
edit can you tell me what meth kit your running and if you have anypics of your setup would be great.Iv been thinking of running that stuff for a while now
#12
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if you feel that the pump is working.. (touch it) after you run the car...
I would bleed air out of your system... search the sticky how to do it.
Its way too high... at 80F.. you should be at 90F to 100F cruising at 70....
under WOT.. no more than 140F.
if the pump does not seem its vibrating or making the usual buzzing sound.. buy a new one.
I would bleed air out of your system... search the sticky how to do it.
Its way too high... at 80F.. you should be at 90F to 100F cruising at 70....
under WOT.. no more than 140F.
if the pump does not seem its vibrating or making the usual buzzing sound.. buy a new one.
#13
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2004 E55,1969 300SEL6.3,2011 ML350 BlueTec Diesel,2005 ML400 CDI
You will always be limited by the BTU capacity of the intercoolers. Note the oversized intercoolers on the SLR's.
#14
I think all are issues could be solved with a bigger/more efficent intercooler. Does anyone have one? I check my cooling lines on my setup and found one bend had started to fold over on its self so I put in a 90 elbow flows much better now. But cruising around Im still at about 116 thats with just driving around lugging it from stops moderatly. On highway cruising easy its at 107ish and under wot from like 40 to 120 it spikes to 160.
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
I think all are issues could be solved with a bigger/more efficent intercooler. Does anyone have one? I check my cooling lines on my setup and found one bend had started to fold over on its self so I put in a 90 elbow flows much better now. But cruising around Im still at about 116 thats with just driving around lugging it from stops moderatly. On highway cruising easy its at 107ish and under wot from like 40 to 120 it spikes to 160.
If i recall timing is pulled if you go over 130? no?
The way i see it
you get too much monster trq from adding a large pulley that 1rst, 2nd gear are un-drivable under full load in normal streets, with street tires, due to heavy wheel spin...
you are unable to do multiple high speed runs as your car will not perform the same each time
so the point in doing this to your DD beats me
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
p.s why does your sig say u drive an E63?
#16
I work at a dealership and was driving an 07 E63 but I bought a E55 about 4 months ago as my personal vehicle and have since upgraded it. Guess I didnt pay close attention to that. Anyways why?
And yes after 130 F the cars due start to pull timming and add fuel. And why the go fast mods on these cars? Do you really have to ask. Even when the IAT go over 130 they still will outpull stock the just add fuel and cut timming.
Anyways update I got under my car rerouted some of the plumbing and now it flows much better I installed 90 degree elbows at all turns. Did logging on highway ambient temps at 86 IAT at 113ish. Under hard pull a dig from 45 to 120 IAT had spiked to 168 once I got to about 100. Does the trunk mount resevior having that extra cooling capacity really help this issue I would like some input from the guys running this set up. I dont feel that the factory intercooler can keep up with the cooling needs regardless of cooling capacity volume.
ALSO i wired my pump to run key on always. I can do a write up as i took some pictures on how to do it without cutting any wires. I depinned the wire from the real sam and tied into key on power from the aux cigar lighter. Real easy and easy to reverse if nesecary.
And yes after 130 F the cars due start to pull timming and add fuel. And why the go fast mods on these cars? Do you really have to ask. Even when the IAT go over 130 they still will outpull stock the just add fuel and cut timming.
Anyways update I got under my car rerouted some of the plumbing and now it flows much better I installed 90 degree elbows at all turns. Did logging on highway ambient temps at 86 IAT at 113ish. Under hard pull a dig from 45 to 120 IAT had spiked to 168 once I got to about 100. Does the trunk mount resevior having that extra cooling capacity really help this issue I would like some input from the guys running this set up. I dont feel that the factory intercooler can keep up with the cooling needs regardless of cooling capacity volume.
ALSO i wired my pump to run key on always. I can do a write up as i took some pictures on how to do it without cutting any wires. I depinned the wire from the real sam and tied into key on power from the aux cigar lighter. Real easy and easy to reverse if nesecary.
#17
proof that these big *** pullys are no good in the long run over all...
If i recall timing is pulled if you go over 130? no?
The way i see it
you get too much monster trq from adding a large pulley that 1rst, 2nd gear are un-drivable under full load in normal streets, with street tires, due to heavy wheel spin...
you are unable to do multiple high speed runs as your car will not perform the same each time
so the point in doing this to your DD beats me![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
p.s why does your sig say u drive an E63?
If i recall timing is pulled if you go over 130? no?
The way i see it
you get too much monster trq from adding a large pulley that 1rst, 2nd gear are un-drivable under full load in normal streets, with street tires, due to heavy wheel spin...
you are unable to do multiple high speed runs as your car will not perform the same each time
so the point in doing this to your DD beats me
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
p.s why does your sig say u drive an E63?
I
#18
MBWorld Fanatic!
172mm max for me and I am about to run vinnys old 168 that he had and ran 11.0x with.I should be in the low 11s with it and the car will be very consistent on the street.
its not about boost,its about how cold you can run your iats with this car.
you can make a stock car trap 118 if you chill the air enough.
its not about boost,its about how cold you can run your iats with this car.
you can make a stock car trap 118 if you chill the air enough.
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
172mm max for me and I am about to run vinnys old 168 that he had and ran 11.0x with.I should be in the low 11s with it and the car will be very consistent on the street.
its not about boost,its about how cold you can run your iats with this car.
you can make a stock car trap 118 if you chill the air enough.
its not about boost,its about how cold you can run your iats with this car.
you can make a stock car trap 118 if you chill the air enough.
160-190 IAT is silly, at what speeds are these happening at?
Alan
Am sure you are more then aware how hard it is to launch our cars on the street with street tires, if ur packing the hp upgrades
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and don't pretend u do not do the odd run here n there ;p
What good is it if you can not even maintain your high speed runs multible time either?
if its at the track..well can't comment on that as we do not have one :'(
p.s not every where is open roads...we also have to go to meheco for the high speed runs
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Last edited by Zod; 07-05-2010 at 01:44 PM.
#20
I've had my fair share of street races and haven't lost one yet. I may give a length or so up at the start but in all cases so far I've been able to recover and be victorious. I raced a 996 modded turbo up to 170 mph and ended up winning by multiple car lengths even with the so called big pulley.
What good is it if you can not even maintain your high speed runs multible time either?
I'm not really willing to get into a debate on which is better because there isn't a right or wrong answer. Good luck with your setup and I hope you meet all your individual goals, I have....
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#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
you will never reach your goal as you always make a new one, after you beat your old one
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Also have you run your bigger pulley setup up top and monitored it?
I am curious as one of the main factors helping you guys run these was the cooler weather at the time.
Can you honestly say you can run the over 180mm pulley, with out any side effects on the cars consistent performance (in non winter weather)?
Ice in the tank, ice the engine before the run, DR setup, meth/NOS is not my style or what I expect out of a DD sports sedan, but to each his own
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
I merely commented, as some people read these threads an assume ''all these guys are running these with no problem!''
People have to know they are draw backs...
As we saw with the 82mm tb
#22
No, I've only logged my 185 pulley at the track with a failing pump. The highest mph I've seen with the new pulley was in the mid 130's with temps between 140-150. Once again this was on a failing pump that is now replaced.
Could you tell me what your IAT's are during your high speed runs?
Could you honestly say that anything over stock won't come with ill side effects? We all know there are drawbacks to every mod and that's why each one should be considered carefully. I can not believe that you don't suffer from any of the drawbacks you speak of, especially in the heat you guys run. Once again your circumstances are much different than mine.
Like you said, to each their own. To be honest I'm surprised you even went with LT's on your DD sports sedan. At least with all the other things you speak of it wouldn't hurt the daily drive-ability after the fact. Just a thought.
Could you tell me what your IAT's are during your high speed runs?
Can you honestly say you can run the over 180mm pulley, with out any side effects on the cars consistent performance (in non winter weather)?
Ice in the tank, ice the engine before the run, DR setup, meth/NOS is not my style or what I expect out of a DD sports sedan, but to each his own
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#23
Super Member
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..........
ALSO i wired my pump to run key on always. I can do a write up as i took some pictures on how to do it without cutting any wires. I depinned the wire from the real sam and tied into key on power from the aux cigar lighter. Real easy and easy to reverse if nesecary.
ALSO i wired my pump to run key on always. I can do a write up as i took some pictures on how to do it without cutting any wires. I depinned the wire from the real sam and tied into key on power from the aux cigar lighter. Real easy and easy to reverse if nesecary.
![naughty](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
#25