im also in for 2 as long as the price doesnt go crazy :P

 

That sounds excessive - you should have only used 150ml. If filling to the drain hole that will use up to about 300ml but that is overfull and susceptible to leaking.

There doesn't seem to be any issues caused by overfilling apart from the possibility of that smelly oil leaking out the sc bolt and splashing on the underside of the hood, although for many people (including myself) filling to the drain hole does not cause leakage?

 

Count me in for 2 new bearings as well!

 

I would also be interested in a set of two each bearings.


Denroll, may I ask you to provide the diameter of the supercharger shaft in millimeters? And the outer bearing diameter and the width. I would estimate the shaft diameter at 17mm, the outer bearing diameter at 26mm, and the width is unknown.


The NTN RNU is a custom-made bearing; thus the non-availability. Might want to look into teaming with a company such as ECS Tuning for a larger run to reduce costs. This bearing is used with any supercharger on the M113 engine. I would much rather spend a couple of hundred dollars replacing the bearings versus spending thousands of dollars on another supercharger.


The reason I ask Denroll for the measurements is it is possible one could install non-standard bearings (most likely a deep-groove ball-bearing in "Series 8" diameter) as a rebuild that would suffice to meet the requirements of the original design.


The 6203Z bearing normally comes with a 17mm inner bore (the "03" in the designation) but the "2" is a standard metric measurement (usually starting at 40mm but the supercharger bearing looks to be a custom 26mm). The "6" indicates "ball bearing" but that can also include "cylindrical bearings". FWIW, the RNU from NTN indicates "Custom, cylindrical bearing, caged". The "03 indicates inner bearing diameter (17mm), the "ZZ" indicates sealed on both sides. The rest of the suffix deals with clearances and whatnot.


If one does decide to repack the bearing with grease, choose a high-temp grease and only pack the bearing to 50% of the volume.


I would much rather rebuild my supercharger at 120K miles rather than have it fail catastrophically.


Apologies for the long-winded post but we need to make it financially viable for NTN to produce another run of these bearings.

 

I'll see what I can do.

 

Mine just failed. I think it's one of these bearing from the feel of it. It may be too late since the bearing runs directly on the shaft, but I'm driving an ML320 until it's fixed sooo HIGHLY MOTIVATED!

 

Hi,


since the two rear bearings of the SC have to be looked after as well, has anybody a DIY on this with some pics (How to remove the two screws etc)?

Would be really nice! Thanks

 

I have the Supercharger off of my SL55 for a TB update ( ... replacing a flaky bypass throttle and going to 82 mm TB as well) SO ... seems like a good time to clean and re-grease the rear bearings.

I looked around and have not found a definitive answer on preferred lube for our specific application ... so, after finding that some (many) supercharger re-builders use an NLGI 1.5 (or ... NLGI 2* depending where it is listed) grade grease called "Rheotemp 500" I just ordered up a 100 gram tube. Likely hundreds of times the amount I need, but this is the smallest container that TAI http://www.lubekits.com/ had on hand (they are the north american dist for Nye, the manufacturer of Rheotemp 500).

with shipping, it was about $75

I expect I will have plenty left over to share : )

Cheers,
Chris

 

Nice, cant wait to see some DIY from this

 

looking at this pic I am wondering if you could place a little jig or cup over the bearing with a grease fitting , hold it place with a couple of those bolt holes in the casting and force the grease through with a gun,,, it would save you from removing the rotors and bearings,, clean the extra lube up front/back after and your good to go.

 

There is already a cup over them in the snout, but it's not sealed. The real problem is high speed grease rarely comes in a tube. I have some for the CNC at work, but it's $400 a tube. You only need to grease them every 80k or so, might as well just pull it and do it.

 

I like the idea, however, ALL of the original grease must be removed AND when re-greased, this bearing should get a 30% fill or less (70 - 75% air-space left in bearing after re-lubing)... SO to force out ALL of the old grease (if that were even possible) while only re-filling 25-30% seems IMpossible ....
So it would seem there is no way to do this properly without removing the inner race (which is pressed on the shaft in this application) ... then flushing (with solvent) and then refilling.

Cheers,
Chris

 

Turns out the inner race is separate. I modified my puller and took it off the shaft. The seals aren't seals either, they are aluminum covers. No rubber.
I bought a used S/C and took one bearing out of it, so these bearings are worth a thousand bucks apiece if you really need one.

 

Dude..... pics!

 

This weekend.

 

Here it is.

 

How difficult was it to pull the bearings? I have my old one still sitting on the bench.

 

They are glued in, so... hard. Blow torch with map gas, lots of patience and a press. Then drill out the epoxy holes, clean the grooves with a dremel blade and dental pick.


The inner race is tight with very little lip, so sharpen and thin out your puller, and clearance the other end so the jaws squeeze in close to the center. Grease the screw and center tip. Once you get it to bite, hose clamp the jaws in place.


I used temperature difference and a hammer to reinstall, went smooth. For epoxy I used slow JB weld in a syringe because it can take the heat, but I will have a hard time getting it out next time.


These bearings turn a lot faster than the pulley because of the gearing, so don't use anything inferior.


Oh, and be carful with the gaskets on the other end, they are reusable, and probably hard to find.

 

I don't know if this has been covered somewhere else already, but when I took mine apart this past weekend, I left the 2 bottom screws in place so that only one of the front gaskets is exposed.

Cheers,
Chris

 

Good idea, but I just had to look inside.

 

How did you get inside further? Do you remove any gears? Is there a bearing inside of the supercharger clutch that can be replaced? Bearings behind gears in front of screws that can be replaced? TIA!

 

Great info here guys!

 

Probably a dumb question but does the bearing assembly just slide off initially with easy from the SC or does it require heat and a press? I would like to try and attempt this properly and go the whole 9 yards since my SC needs an oil change..

I feel slightly confused by the bearing pics on page 4 and 5.. Where does the grease go? Is it as simple as greasing the rollers or? Starvingartist's second bearing pic on page 5 has me perplexed as I'm trying to figure out what is on top of the bearing in his second picture of the two he posted.. Can someone guide me a little? I have yet to ever pull my SC off and am just trying to put the pieces of information in this thread together.

 

Easy to take it apart to clean and grease the bearings, hard to get the bearings out.


Has anyone heard anything about the replacement bearings?

 

Okay sweet. Now, is it necessary to take the bearings out like you did to service or did you do it for fun and in the name of science?

I would like to know what's up with the replacement bearings as well.. I see there is a plant delivery for the end of this month... Hopefully we can see these before the end of 2016