I am so frustrated with whatever is happening with my cooling system..While cruising on the highways Iat's stay around 14-20 above ambient no matter what the outside temps are which is fine..
Now my problem comes when im driving local and thats when Iat's shoot up to 35-50 above and unless i get back to cruising speeds they will remain that way. That being said on my last trip to the track i was starting my runs way above ambient (45-50 degrees) on a very cold night.
Now my setup is a CODE 3 Heat Exchanger, Meziere wp136, 1 gallon reservoir (in engine bay)..The pump has been slowed down in the past with a resistor and nothing..today i had it running with the ignition and dont think will help..I know my reservoir is still too small and does not hold a lot of water but was also wondering if the pump is too fast for it. These pumps have a high volume but very low pressure and when i try bleeding the system it only squirts compared to the past when i had the CM30 it would shoot out the capped nipple. Tried bleeding a few times and no success, checked the pump and compared flow with another meziere and nothing, checked for clogging in the HE and nothing, I've heard these heat exchangers are pretty restrictive so i also had in mind adding an extra core..
The CM30 i had took a ***** which is why i went with this one. Now Im looking into just a Bosch..My goal is to be a little closer to ambient.
What next?? any inputs you experts out there?? I do not want to run a trunk reservoir (have heard of cracked intercoolers during freeze ups) not to mention i don't like the idea
So please Chime in on any other possible solutions..help is appreciated
Stay thirsty my friends
Now my problem comes when im driving local and thats when Iat's shoot up to 35-50 above and unless i get back to cruising speeds they will remain that way. That being said on my last trip to the track i was starting my runs way above ambient (45-50 degrees) on a very cold night.
Now my setup is a CODE 3 Heat Exchanger, Meziere wp136, 1 gallon reservoir (in engine bay)..The pump has been slowed down in the past with a resistor and nothing..today i had it running with the ignition and dont think will help..I know my reservoir is still too small and does not hold a lot of water but was also wondering if the pump is too fast for it. These pumps have a high volume but very low pressure and when i try bleeding the system it only squirts compared to the past when i had the CM30 it would shoot out the capped nipple. Tried bleeding a few times and no success, checked the pump and compared flow with another meziere and nothing, checked for clogging in the HE and nothing, I've heard these heat exchangers are pretty restrictive so i also had in mind adding an extra core..
The CM30 i had took a ***** which is why i went with this one. Now Im looking into just a Bosch..My goal is to be a little closer to ambient.
What next?? any inputs you experts out there?? I do not want to run a trunk reservoir (have heard of cracked intercoolers during freeze ups) not to mention i don't like the idea
So please Chime in on any other possible solutions..help is appreciated
Stay thirsty my friends

Please explain how the 1 gal resv is tied in to the system. Any pics? Is the pump hot wired? When you bled the system, was the engine running or just the pump?
Quote:
I separated the cooling with a custom made tank, and the pump replaced my previous one (Johnson CM30) Don't have any pics- Bled the system by running just the pump with the car off..disconnected the HE hoses to see if pressure shot from the bleeder and just shoots a bit and stops but the pump keeps running, just not sure if strong enough..Originally Posted by lowprofile
Please explain how the 1 gal resv is tied in to the system. Any pics? Is the pump hot wired? When you bled the system, was the engine running or just the pump?
Well, that sounds like your pump is airbound. The reservoir, does it have an "in barb" and an "out"?
Quote:
Yes in and out!Originally Posted by lowprofile
Well, that sounds like your pump is airbound. The reservoir, does it have an "in barb" and an "out"?
Im thinking pump myself but since is only 6 months old..spoke to Tom Meziere and suggested larger fittings but i truly dont think that would do it, at least not for my application...it almost feels like there is tons of air pockets in there and just dont wanna come out..don't wanna buy another pump just yet
Quote:
YesOriginally Posted by lowprofile
OK, so the "out" runs directly to the pump >i/c >h/e > then back to resv?
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
ExploreIf you can hear the pump running and nothing is coming out the bleeder, either the impeller is damaged on the pump, or it is airbound, or there is a blockage. I would rule out the blockage as you stated that temps are normal at highway speed.
What is the voltage at the pump while using the resistor?
What is the voltage at the pump while using the resistor?
Quote:
What is the voltage at the pump while using the resistor?
Airbound meaning too fast Originally Posted by lowprofile
If you can hear the pump running and nothing is coming out the bleeder, either the impeller is damaged on the pump, or it is airbound, or there is a blockage. I would rule out the blockage as you stated that temps are normal at highway speed. What is the voltage at the pump while using the resistor?
? Not sure on Voltage 12volts maybe, but ran it without the resistor and made no difference.Airbound meaning the pump is cavitating. 12 volts is fine.
Your comparison between the CM30 flowing alot of fluid out the bleeder and the Meziere almost not at all, suggests the pump is cavitating or airbound.
You have checked all the hoses to make sure none are pinched or collapsed?
Your comparison between the CM30 flowing alot of fluid out the bleeder and the Meziere almost not at all, suggests the pump is cavitating or airbound.
You have checked all the hoses to make sure none are pinched or collapsed?
Quote:
Your comparison between the CM30 flowing alot of fluid out the bleeder and the Meziere almost not at all, suggests the pump is cavitating or airbound.
You have checked all the hoses to make sure none are pinched or collapsed?
Hoses are all fine, ran the pump with hoses disconnected and still nothing..its strange for sure. We'll figure this out some howOriginally Posted by lowprofile
Airbound meaning the pump is cavitating. 12 volts is fine. Your comparison between the CM30 flowing alot of fluid out the bleeder and the Meziere almost not at all, suggests the pump is cavitating or airbound.
You have checked all the hoses to make sure none are pinched or collapsed?

Member
Oh hey, have you tried opening the Allen on the pump itself? That is the bleed for the pump itself.
Member
Oh off topic, anyone know what the vacuum line going to the stock pump is for? I just capped it off.......
Member
Quote:
Now my problem comes when im driving local and thats when Iat's shoot up to 35-50 above and unless i get back to cruising speeds they will remain that way. That being said on my last trip to the track i was starting my runs way above ambient (45-50 degrees) on a very cold night.
Now my setup is a CODE 3 Heat Exchanger, Meziere wp136, 1 gallon reservoir (in engine bay)..The pump has been slowed down in the past with a resistor and nothing..today i had it running with the ignition and dont think will help..I know my reservoir is still too small and does not hold a lot of water but was also wondering if the pump is too fast for it. These pumps have a high volume but very low pressure and when i try bleeding the system it only squirts compared to the past when i had the CM30 it would shoot out the capped nipple. Tried bleeding a few times and no success, checked the pump and compared flow with another meziere and nothing, checked for clogging in the HE and nothing, I've heard these heat exchangers are pretty restrictive so i also had in mind adding an extra core..
The CM30 i had took a ***** which is why i went with this one. Now Im looking into just a Bosch..My goal is to be a little closer to ambient.
What next?? any inputs you experts out there?? I do not want to run a trunk reservoir (have heard of cracked intercoolers during freeze ups) not to mention i don't like the idea
So please Chime in on any other possible solutions..help is appreciated
Stay thirsty my friends
stop wasting your time and get the evosport cooling package it is not cheap. But y would u want any thing cheap on a AmgOriginally Posted by LOCO 05' E55
I am so frustrated with whatever is happening with my cooling system..While cruising on the highways Iat's stay around 14-20 above ambient no matter what the outside temps are which is fine.. Now my problem comes when im driving local and thats when Iat's shoot up to 35-50 above and unless i get back to cruising speeds they will remain that way. That being said on my last trip to the track i was starting my runs way above ambient (45-50 degrees) on a very cold night.
Now my setup is a CODE 3 Heat Exchanger, Meziere wp136, 1 gallon reservoir (in engine bay)..The pump has been slowed down in the past with a resistor and nothing..today i had it running with the ignition and dont think will help..I know my reservoir is still too small and does not hold a lot of water but was also wondering if the pump is too fast for it. These pumps have a high volume but very low pressure and when i try bleeding the system it only squirts compared to the past when i had the CM30 it would shoot out the capped nipple. Tried bleeding a few times and no success, checked the pump and compared flow with another meziere and nothing, checked for clogging in the HE and nothing, I've heard these heat exchangers are pretty restrictive so i also had in mind adding an extra core..
The CM30 i had took a ***** which is why i went with this one. Now Im looking into just a Bosch..My goal is to be a little closer to ambient.
What next?? any inputs you experts out there?? I do not want to run a trunk reservoir (have heard of cracked intercoolers during freeze ups) not to mention i don't like the idea
So please Chime in on any other possible solutions..help is appreciated
Stay thirsty my friends
Quote:
Evosport uses a power steering reservoir from BMW which is 6 times smaller than the tank I had made for my car (not cheap at all). They have an auxiliary HE which is pretty small as well. I'm working on fitting another HE in for sure, not taking anything away from the evosport kit just think is overpriced..you can buy cams for that price Originally Posted by SuperchargerV8
stop wasting your time and get the evosport cooling package it is not cheap. But y would u want any thing cheap on a Amg

Former Vendor of MBWorld
shardul
Former Vendor of MBWorld
close
- Join DateMay 2008
- LocationHouston
- Posts:12,139
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(1)
- Vehicle(s) I drive2003 W211 E55, 2003 W220 S600
-
Likes:389
-
Liked:295 Times in 244 Posts
when you bleed the system are you clamping the rubber hose below the bleed nipple? i have a 2 HE setup, split colling, and Meziere and my IATs while crusing are 10 to 15 above ambient.
I think your system is working the way it should.. 15-20 over ambient at cruise is pretty much normal.. If it is cold, we see 8-12 over at 68 mph cruise.. If you are in stop and go or in town traffic, then IAT`s will shoot up to 30 plus, again depending on conditions.. again, it is all relevant to Ambient and at a certian point (very cold ambient) , then IAT`s will not get that low other than 70 mph cruise conditions,,
At the track , I think you had 35 deg temps? If parked, your IAT became heat soaked and you need to manage this heat soak.. You can turn on heater, circulate ICE through your H/E to bring temps down.. Again, waiting in staging lanes and no air going across H/E`s, you will be well above a 35 deg ambient.. Only way, is use Ice to get the starting IAT temp lower..
At the track , I think you had 35 deg temps? If parked, your IAT became heat soaked and you need to manage this heat soak.. You can turn on heater, circulate ICE through your H/E to bring temps down.. Again, waiting in staging lanes and no air going across H/E`s, you will be well above a 35 deg ambient.. Only way, is use Ice to get the starting IAT temp lower..
Quote:
Haven't clamped it..will try that. But when you bleed it, do you get constant pressure out the nipple? Mine just shoots once then you can just hear like a bubbling sound of water circulating. Hae had the secondary HE in mind since June but always ended up trying something else..I even have two push fans on the core running all the time lol.Originally Posted by shardul
when you bleed the system are you clamping the rubber hose below the bleed nipple? i have a 2 HE setup, split colling, and Meziere and my IATs while crusing are 10 to 15 above ambient.
Former Vendor of MBWorld
shardul
Former Vendor of MBWorld
close
- Join DateMay 2008
- LocationHouston
- Posts:12,139
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(1)
- Vehicle(s) I drive2003 W211 E55, 2003 W220 S600
-
Likes:389
-
Liked:295 Times in 244 Posts
you will get constant pressure when you clamp the hose. make sure you run the hose from the bleed nipple into the aux reservior.
MBWorld Fanatic!
I am with Exotic, DUDE, you ran an 11.1!!!! She's healthy!
I say snag a new pump if you want but don't tinker too much more with additional cooling etc. She's running great!


I say snag a new pump if you want but don't tinker too much more with additional cooling etc. She's running great!


Quote:
I say snag a new pump if you want but don't tinker too much more with additional cooling etc. She's running great!

Originally Posted by Jakpro1
I am with Exotic, DUDE, you ran an 11.1!!!! She's healthy!I say snag a new pump if you want but don't tinker too much more with additional cooling etc. She's running great!

Was really cold out though. But you are right gotta stop jerking with that..it is what it is..Just think it should have been lower considering the conditions..
Quote:
Just random guess's
Originally Posted by sneakyneon
Did you wire the pump backwards?
Just random guess's
No way! BTW just clamped the hose and bled it so at least i know the pump definitely has pop, just not as much Psi as the CM30s but more Volume..That is why bigger than 3/4 fittings is recommended for these to run correctly.
Former Vendor of MBWorld
shardul
Former Vendor of MBWorld
close
- Join DateMay 2008
- LocationHouston
- Posts:12,139
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(1)
- Vehicle(s) I drive2003 W211 E55, 2003 W220 S600
-
Likes:389
-
Liked:295 Times in 244 Posts
if you get the 1 inch AN fitting you will have to run bigger hoses also
