crap...My new pulley just fell off!
you could use his crank if he still has it.
Last edited by skratch77; Mar 21, 2011 at 03:33 PM.
I see fretting deposits on the nose of the Crank. A large part of the key is under that oil pump drive. A really good machine shop may be able to salvage it._PTEngineering
Best of luck.
Todd
I took a look at the hub and the keyway portion of it is intact. The race that slides over the crankshaft is pretty scratched up.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Whatever the final verdict on the failure is, it's good to see that it's getting resolved.
Good luck to all involved.
Whatever the final verdict on the failure is, it's good to see that it's getting resolved.
Good luck to all involved.


... lol
I'm second guessing my install from Saturday and want to make sure I'm in the clear. We torqued to 275 + 90 and have done multiple pulls with no issues...so far.
Thanks,
Todd
Last edited by pearlpower; Mar 21, 2011 at 05:28 PM.
Now is it recommended here to put either loctite red or blue on the mating surfaces, with red on the crank bolt itself? On other makes, that was the procedure (or to use green for the mating surfaces, but I used red).
There is always a way out of the box... When I'm faced with perplexing challenges like this. First thing I do is shut off the computer and do some deep thinking. Hope this helps.
The heat marks are common if you have metal on metal contact at such high speeds. Doesn't look like the metallurgy of the crankshaft has been compromised enough to justify a new crankshaft. (trying to stay positive) Good luck!
I also took my torque wrench to the airport ( I work at the airport and the crew at AA let me use a machine they have to calibrate torque wrenches ). Well guess what...my torque wrench apparently BROKE during the install or something. It gave erratic readings when used up against their calibration tool ( I didn't see it but the tech said my torque wrench passed away ).
Sooooooo....I guess in all fairness it apparently WAS my fault ( or rather the torque wrench's fault ).

I know the oem damper need the key for the timing markers on the damper....but what does the eurocharged one need it for? I mean, what's the worse that could happen? It falls off again? I doubt it can damage the keyway since the key is already flush as it is.
I dunno...just trowing it out there...lol.
Last edited by GT-ER; Mar 21, 2011 at 06:51 PM.








