W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

crap...My new pulley just fell off!

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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 03:30 PM
  #26  
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Id start looking for a new crank bro,I didnt want to see this but Im sorry,you melted your keyway.I know a kid that blew up the top end of an e55 from not changing the supercharger pump on a k4 car.If you want I can give you his info to see if he still has his old engine.

you could use his crank if he still has it.

Last edited by skratch77; Mar 21, 2011 at 03:33 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 03:44 PM
  #27  
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05 ML-500 , 03 CLK5.5 AMG has left the Garage
You Pulley Fell OFF

I say you got to pull it apart . I see fretting deposits on the nose of the Crank. A large part of the key is under that oil pump drive. A really good machine shop may be able to salvage it.
_PTEngineering
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 03:48 PM
  #28  
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We just installed mine on Saturday. If you weren't properly aligned in the keyway, wouldn't the pulley have sat out and not allowed the belt to align properly? Seems like it would have been very apparent that something was wrong, if indeed the pulley was not installed right to start with.

Best of luck.

Todd
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 03:51 PM
  #29  
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Trying to be positive... I bet once it cleaned up, it might not be that bad. Granted you will have to take a part the whole front of the engine and timing set. If all you have is a destroyed woodruff Key and some scorching, you might not be in that bad of shape. The woodruff key is not to expensive in itself, Its just a pain to get to. Lets hope for the best here.
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 03:52 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by loungn14
ok, what does the pulley look like now. (ie the hub)

Just to ask did you make sure your tq wrench wasn't set to nm and not ft lbs?
Yes, my torque wrench was in ft-lbs...it was nearly maxed.

I took a look at the hub and the keyway portion of it is intact. The race that slides over the crankshaft is pretty scratched up.
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 03:53 PM
  #31  
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SORRY to see this I feel your pain! Mine did not even look as bad as that but once the bottom end comes off along with the front cover I'm sure the crank damage will be more apparent. Looks like your front cover is intact so as PTE says a good machine shop maybe able to repair it. A new crank is several 1000's as is a used repalcement engine...
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 04:12 PM
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This thread is even on FB, now we can all learn from your misfortune.. emphasis on fortune.. sorry to see that damage was done
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 04:16 PM
  #33  
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Although the timing cover is gonna have to come off, I'd say you'll be ok once you clean up the crank (gently) and replace the woodruff key.
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 04:16 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 03'55AMG
This thread is even on FB, now we can all learn from your misfortune.. emphasis on fortune.. sorry to see that damage was done
I put it up on my FB, as well. There are plenty of EC cars and pulleys out there without issues, so my initial thought was an installation error - and those are easy to make!

Whatever the final verdict on the failure is, it's good to see that it's getting resolved.

Good luck to all involved.
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 04:20 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Speedriven
I put it up on my FB, as well. There are plenty of EC cars and pulleys out there without issues, so my initial thought was an installation error - and those are easy to make!

Whatever the final verdict on the failure is, it's good to see that it's getting resolved.

Good luck to all involved.
Yea, I saw it on yours, then I couldnt stop starring at your photos..... lol
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 04:32 PM
  #36  
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I feel for you. I'd be in tears [seriously] and you're keeping your chin up.
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 04:51 PM
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When people ask me why I'm bone stock, I tell them these story's and how one MM can cost you an engine, and Not only do I not want to blow an engine, but the fact that I got my engine brand new, it would devastate me to have to throw it away.
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 04:56 PM
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Some have referenced that he might have had the pulley slotted in the keyway. If he didn't have it in the keyway and he tightened the bolt to spec, wouldn't the pulley have sat way out(to the point that the belt would not have aligned properly)?

I'm second guessing my install from Saturday and want to make sure I'm in the clear. We torqued to 275 + 90 and have done multiple pulls with no issues...so far.

Thanks,
Todd
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 05:11 PM
  #39  
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Stock pulley crew!

As everyone said, that sucks. Its the number one reason Im not touching the pulley - so risky.

Hope things proceed well
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 05:14 PM
  #40  
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Double checking my bolt too
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 05:21 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by AWOL
Stock pulley crew!

As everyone said, that sucks. Its the number one reason Im not touching the pulley - so risky.

Hope things proceed well
+1. I daily my E55, can't afford to have it down for a long period of time.

OT: Best of luck getting everything worked out bro!
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 05:22 PM
  #42  
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If you decide to tear apart the 55, take a million pics so at least we can admire the internals of your 55.
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 05:26 PM
  #43  
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Key way is for alignment, the proper torque is what holds the pulley on the crank., hope it all works out for you.

Last edited by pearlpower; Mar 21, 2011 at 05:28 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 05:29 PM
  #44  
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I'm sorry to see your problem. Take some deep breaths and keep on wrenching until it's clear what the next step is.

Les
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 05:32 PM
  #45  
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Wow. Score +10000 for user error.

Now is it recommended here to put either loctite red or blue on the mating surfaces, with red on the crank bolt itself? On other makes, that was the procedure (or to use green for the mating surfaces, but I used red).
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 06:25 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Velociabstract
I'm sorry to see your problem. Take some deep breaths and keep on wrenching until it's clear what the next step is.

Les
What he said.

There is always a way out of the box... When I'm faced with perplexing challenges like this. First thing I do is shut off the computer and do some deep thinking. Hope this helps.

The heat marks are common if you have metal on metal contact at such high speeds. Doesn't look like the metallurgy of the crankshaft has been compromised enough to justify a new crankshaft. (trying to stay positive) Good luck!
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 06:25 PM
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I used red loctite fwiw.

I also took my torque wrench to the airport ( I work at the airport and the crew at AA let me use a machine they have to calibrate torque wrenches ). Well guess what...my torque wrench apparently BROKE during the install or something. It gave erratic readings when used up against their calibration tool ( I didn't see it but the tech said my torque wrench passed away ).

Sooooooo....I guess in all fairness it apparently WAS my fault ( or rather the torque wrench's fault ).
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 06:36 PM
  #48  
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wow so it wasn't near tight enough I'm guessing, hence the wobble. did it have a warranty? or a guaranty? call them and tell them their tool broke your engine, see if they do anything.. lol most likely wont get any where but worth a shot at this point
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 06:36 PM
  #49  
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Damn i hope you get it worked out the easiest and best way possible. Good luck.

Aaron
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 06:43 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 03'55AMG
wow so it wasn't near tight enough I'm guessing, hence the wobble. did it have a warranty? or a guaranty? call them and tell them their tool broke your engine, see if they do anything.. lol most likely wont get any where but worth a shot at this point
I always warranty my own work...lol. I did the install myself...

Originally Posted by pearlpower
Key way is for alignment, the proper torque is what holds the pulley on the crank., hope it all works out for you.
Think about what pearlpower said. For those who have done this kind of stuff before. What keeps me from simply attaching the pulley again and properly torquing it down ( with a new torque wrench that actually works...lol )?

I know the oem damper need the key for the timing markers on the damper....but what does the eurocharged one need it for? I mean, what's the worse that could happen? It falls off again? I doubt it can damage the keyway since the key is already flush as it is.

I dunno...just trowing it out there...lol.

Last edited by GT-ER; Mar 21, 2011 at 06:51 PM.
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