View Poll Results: Use the 180mm pulley or go with oem?
Don't be a wuss...stick to the 180mm.
21
67.74%
Go safe...go oem.
10
32.26%
Voters: 31. You may not vote on this poll
Since you all know what happened to my pulley, now I need to make a decision.
03-21-2011, 10:28 PM
#1
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2005 E55 AMG
Since you all know what happened to my pulley, now I need to make a decision.
Reference: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-fell-off.html
So... since my crank is already battered do you guys think I should try to use the 180mm pulley again or should I install my oem one and be "safer" but lose 40whp maybe?
I already have the headers, intercooler and tune for the pulley. I just figure that the oem pulley, due to it's smaller size, would put considerably less strain on my crank and would make the chances of it coming of again considerably less. I'd also need to talk to Jerry about retuning my car.
Thoughts?
So... since my crank is already battered do you guys think I should try to use the 180mm pulley again or should I install my oem one and be "safer" but lose 40whp maybe?
I already have the headers, intercooler and tune for the pulley. I just figure that the oem pulley, due to it's smaller size, would put considerably less strain on my crank and would make the chances of it coming of again considerably less. I'd also need to talk to Jerry about retuning my car.
Thoughts?
03-21-2011, 11:05 PM
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E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
The reason it went south to begin with was the install, nothing to do with the pulley. My EC 180mm is flawless and has been since my install.
You have it, might as well put it back on the car, provided it is in good shape. Get something out of your efforts.
You have it, might as well put it back on the car, provided it is in good shape. Get something out of your efforts.
03-21-2011, 11:22 PM
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03-21-2011, 11:37 PM
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2005 E55 AMG
I know the pulley is okay...but there is no doubt that a larger pulley will put more stress on the crank than a smaller one....regardless of what pulley it is. I guess I know where this thread is going though...lol...
03-22-2011, 02:43 AM
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03-22-2011, 05:58 AM
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c200k
I would say that before you start polls on the crank pulley and putting your energy into something ten steps away, fix your damaged engine first. This is part of the behavior that made you damage your engine in the first place. A faulty tool is not the only blame there is. That's a convenient scapegoat, especially since you saw the pulley wobble after first running the engine. That's an indicator right there it wasn't installed correctly, not just the torque.
The next indicator of the faulty behavior is your wish to reinstall the pulley with no woodruf key to see what happens, despite advice not to, and then indicating a lack of knowledge of what the woodruf key is there for and how the crank is affixed.
Third in this series is talking about the pulley, when the crank is damaged and your energy needs to be devoted to fixing the engine, before bolting a part to a damaged engine.
PS- you won't be "losing" 40hp by going back to stock.
PPS- if you fix the engine first, you'll gain the 100% hp you lost when you damaged your engine.
The next indicator of the faulty behavior is your wish to reinstall the pulley with no woodruf key to see what happens, despite advice not to, and then indicating a lack of knowledge of what the woodruf key is there for and how the crank is affixed.
Third in this series is talking about the pulley, when the crank is damaged and your energy needs to be devoted to fixing the engine, before bolting a part to a damaged engine.
PS- you won't be "losing" 40hp by going back to stock.
PPS- if you fix the engine first, you'll gain the 100% hp you lost when you damaged your engine.
Last edited by sknight; 03-22-2011 at 06:13 AM.
03-22-2011, 07:03 AM
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03-22-2011, 07:11 AM
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05 ML-500 , 03 CLK5.5 AMG has left the Garage
oh Crap, Your pulley fell off
I would have the motor rebuilt by a reputable builder with a new crankshaft and any needed extra parts. go back to a 175 mm aftermarket pulley. Where are you located Cheers _PTEngineering
03-22-2011, 08:03 AM
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2005 E55 AMG
I would say that before you start polls on the crank pulley and putting your energy into something ten steps away, fix your damaged engine first. This is part of the behavior that made you damage your engine in the first place. A faulty tool is not the only blame there is. That's a convenient scapegoat, especially since you saw the pulley wobble after first running the engine. That's an indicator right there it wasn't installed correctly, not just the torque.
The next indicator of the faulty behavior is your wish to reinstall the pulley with no woodruf key to see what happens, despite advice not to, and then indicating a lack of knowledge of what the woodruf key is there for and how the crank is affixed.
Third in this series is talking about the pulley, when the crank is damaged and your energy needs to be devoted to fixing the engine, before bolting a part to a damaged engine.
PS- you won't be "losing" 40hp by going back to stock.
PPS- if you fix the engine first, you'll gain the 100% hp you lost when you damaged your engine.
The next indicator of the faulty behavior is your wish to reinstall the pulley with no woodruf key to see what happens, despite advice not to, and then indicating a lack of knowledge of what the woodruf key is there for and how the crank is affixed.
Third in this series is talking about the pulley, when the crank is damaged and your energy needs to be devoted to fixing the engine, before bolting a part to a damaged engine.
PS- you won't be "losing" 40hp by going back to stock.
PPS- if you fix the engine first, you'll gain the 100% hp you lost when you damaged your engine.
Anyways...180mm it is.
03-22-2011, 08:16 AM
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Slightly tangential thought....
For super tight fitting parts I've seen guys heat the part first. Gaining even a few thousandths of clearance can make the install a lot easier. I'm not sure if this type of pulley install would benefit from a bit of preheating, but based on all the comments about how tight the crank-to-pulley clearances are, it might be worth considering once all your other issues are resolved.
-G
For super tight fitting parts I've seen guys heat the part first. Gaining even a few thousandths of clearance can make the install a lot easier. I'm not sure if this type of pulley install would benefit from a bit of preheating, but based on all the comments about how tight the crank-to-pulley clearances are, it might be worth considering once all your other issues are resolved.
-G
03-22-2011, 08:48 AM
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Evo VIII/E55 AMG
Tac weld some spots around the bolt and pulley after its fully torqued down IF you plan on never wanting to take it off again (or not very easily) I actually broke my 280 FT LB torque wrench during my install. I got a 5ft lead pipe and made sure it was snug since it broke right before it was going to click.
03-22-2011, 09:01 AM
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c200k
Tac weld some spots around the bolt and pulley after its fully torqued down IF you plan on never wanting to take it off again (or not very easily) I actually broke my 280 FT LB torque wrench during my install. I got a 5ft lead pipe and made sure it was snug since it broke right before it was going to click.
03-22-2011, 10:52 AM
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2003 E55 & 2014 GL550
Would you really install the pulley on this crank key bro? I wasn't quite sure what you are asking in the question. With new crank key and better install, I might take a whack at the 180 again. I mean what the heck, your crank is roached already. Who knows. Without key though, you are doomed to major failure.
03-22-2011, 11:25 AM
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W211 E55K, Duc 848
I had my pulley fall off a little while ago. Eurocharged designed 180MM... Not using that anymore. It lasted for 8,000 miles. Not blaming product or install... probably just massive power/stress. Anyway nothing was damaged in my mishap no pieces of the keyway damaged anything internally and no real "scarring" on the crankshaft... fix new crank bolt, new key way, reseal whole motor since it was apart.... and a new asp DESIGNED pulley, with actually OEM followed design.
