W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63
View Poll Results: Use the 180mm pulley or go with oem?
Don't be a wuss...stick to the 180mm.
21
67.74%
Go safe...go oem.
10
32.26%
Voters: 31. You may not vote on this poll

Since you all know what happened to my pulley, now I need to make a decision.

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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 10:28 PM
  #1  
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2005 E55 AMG
Since you all know what happened to my pulley, now I need to make a decision.

Reference: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-fell-off.html

So... since my crank is already battered do you guys think I should try to use the 180mm pulley again or should I install my oem one and be "safer" but lose 40whp maybe?

I already have the headers, intercooler and tune for the pulley. I just figure that the oem pulley, due to it's smaller size, would put considerably less strain on my crank and would make the chances of it coming of again considerably less. I'd also need to talk to Jerry about retuning my car.

Thoughts?
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 11:05 PM
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The reason it went south to begin with was the install, nothing to do with the pulley. My EC 180mm is flawless and has been since my install.

You have it, might as well put it back on the car, provided it is in good shape. Get something out of your efforts.
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 11:08 PM
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+1, it was a faulty tool, not the pulley, go big or go home, Right?
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 11:22 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by pearlpower
The reason it went south to begin with was the install, nothing to do with the pulley. My EC 180mm is flawless and has been since my install.

You have it, might as well put it back on the car, provided it is in good shape. Get something out of your efforts.

+1
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 11:37 PM
  #5  
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I know the pulley is okay...but there is no doubt that a larger pulley will put more stress on the crank than a smaller one....regardless of what pulley it is. I guess I know where this thread is going though...lol...
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 01:48 AM
  #6  
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I'd do it, but would just assume pay a professional to do the work this time around.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 02:43 AM
  #7  
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He would never let anyone touch his car, its in his other thread.


Originally Posted by GT-ER
I vowed many years ago to NEVER let ANYONE touch my cars, what I did not know how to do....I would learn.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 03:06 AM
  #8  
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E55 AMG
You already thought the 180mm was worth the effort.... Why not try again?
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 03:31 AM
  #9  
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2006 E55 AMG --old cars -- E39 M5, 2.7tt Audi S4, E36 M3 **Ducati 996, 748
all i can say is ouch and good luck
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 05:51 AM
  #10  
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If you do it again I would buy a 3/4 inch torque wrench this time or use one from work.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 05:58 AM
  #11  
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I would say that before you start polls on the crank pulley and putting your energy into something ten steps away, fix your damaged engine first. This is part of the behavior that made you damage your engine in the first place. A faulty tool is not the only blame there is. That's a convenient scapegoat, especially since you saw the pulley wobble after first running the engine. That's an indicator right there it wasn't installed correctly, not just the torque.

The next indicator of the faulty behavior is your wish to reinstall the pulley with no woodruf key to see what happens, despite advice not to, and then indicating a lack of knowledge of what the woodruf key is there for and how the crank is affixed.

Third in this series is talking about the pulley, when the crank is damaged and your energy needs to be devoted to fixing the engine, before bolting a part to a damaged engine.

PS- you won't be "losing" 40hp by going back to stock.

PPS- if you fix the engine first, you'll gain the 100% hp you lost when you damaged your engine.

Last edited by sknight; Mar 22, 2011 at 06:13 AM.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 07:03 AM
  #12  
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W211
Originally Posted by taurran
I'd do it, but would just assume pay a professional to do the work this time around.

+1that way if they screw up, they will be responsible for the damage and replace it.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 07:11 AM
  #13  
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05 ML-500 , 03 CLK5.5 AMG has left the Garage
oh Crap, Your pulley fell off

I would have the motor rebuilt by a reputable builder with a new crankshaft and any needed extra parts. go back to a 175 mm aftermarket pulley. Where are you located
Cheers _PTEngineering
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 08:03 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by sknight
I would say that before you start polls on the crank pulley and putting your energy into something ten steps away, fix your damaged engine first. This is part of the behavior that made you damage your engine in the first place. A faulty tool is not the only blame there is. That's a convenient scapegoat, especially since you saw the pulley wobble after first running the engine. That's an indicator right there it wasn't installed correctly, not just the torque.

The next indicator of the faulty behavior is your wish to reinstall the pulley with no woodruf key to see what happens, despite advice not to, and then indicating a lack of knowledge of what the woodruf key is there for and how the crank is affixed.

Third in this series is talking about the pulley, when the crank is damaged and your energy needs to be devoted to fixing the engine, before bolting a part to a damaged engine.

PS- you won't be "losing" 40hp by going back to stock.

PPS- if you fix the engine first, you'll gain the 100% hp you lost when you damaged your engine.
Ugh...not you again...

Anyways...180mm it is.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 08:16 AM
  #15  
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Slightly tangential thought....

For super tight fitting parts I've seen guys heat the part first. Gaining even a few thousandths of clearance can make the install a lot easier. I'm not sure if this type of pulley install would benefit from a bit of preheating, but based on all the comments about how tight the crank-to-pulley clearances are, it might be worth considering once all your other issues are resolved.

-G
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 08:48 AM
  #16  
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Tac weld some spots around the bolt and pulley after its fully torqued down IF you plan on never wanting to take it off again (or not very easily) I actually broke my 280 FT LB torque wrench during my install. I got a 5ft lead pipe and made sure it was snug since it broke right before it was going to click.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Evolved8
Tac weld some spots around the bolt and pulley after its fully torqued down IF you plan on never wanting to take it off again (or not very easily) I actually broke my 280 FT LB torque wrench during my install. I got a 5ft lead pipe and made sure it was snug since it broke right before it was going to click.
Where does one buy lead pipes?
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 09:06 AM
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Home Depot.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 09:09 AM
  #19  
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And they're made from lead?
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 09:12 AM
  #20  
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GTER, so is your crank toast after the pulley came loose and wobbled off?
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 09:22 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by chawkins2001
GTER, so is your crank toast after the pulley came loose and wobbled off?
Yup...check out the link up on top.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 10:52 AM
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Would you really install the pulley on this crank key bro? I wasn't quite sure what you are asking in the question. With new crank key and better install, I might take a whack at the 180 again. I mean what the heck, your crank is roached already. Who knows. Without key though, you are doomed to major failure.

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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 11:25 AM
  #23  
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I had my pulley fall off a little while ago. Eurocharged designed 180MM... Not using that anymore. It lasted for 8,000 miles. Not blaming product or install... probably just massive power/stress. Anyway nothing was damaged in my mishap no pieces of the keyway damaged anything internally and no real "scarring" on the crankshaft... fix new crank bolt, new key way, reseal whole motor since it was apart.... and a new asp DESIGNED pulley, with actually OEM followed design.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 11:29 AM
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You folks with loosening, did you guys use loctite?
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by sknight
You folks with loosening, did you guys use loctite?
Yes, blue in my case
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