RIP My E55
I then tuned for c16 and it made 524/635 in 60* heat with 12.3 a/f ratio up top. The timing was 19* at most up top I believe on C16.
I have said this before and will say it again, I have seen tons of muscle cars tuned by tuners that dont have great reputations and even with built motors, they let go. Then you look at the best tuners in the business who can tune stock motors making power that realistically should pop, but they dont. It is ALL in the TUNE. The best tuners make the most power whether the motor is stock or built, and it lasts.


Last edited by chawkins2001; Jan 5, 2012 at 10:28 AM.
As such, facts are that this car had all the right things to keep it safe and a tune that had safe af measurements but it still failed. The question we need to focus on is why? Not who. This car had all the best mods this forum promotes and we need to make sure this doesn't happen to anyone else.
I am not on a witch hunt and I have not problems holding people responsible for service I feel is not acceptable-see my Autoscope posts.
However, I am greateful for all the help i've gotten and all the help I am going to get to get her back on the road and I hope the learnings will help the rest of us. There are some theories on safe spark but thats between me and the tuner till I get it sorted out so please don't throw trash on my car when you have not been fully and accurately informed. Thats how dog gone rumors go wild and I'm very careful in every word I post herer that I can back it up with fact.
So, lets chillax guys and just let the learning continue on getting her back on the road and share things that will help other members.
nuff said!
What type of fuel was the car running when the motor popped? 93 pump, or some flavor of race gas?
Sorry to hear of your troubles......I hate reading blown motor threads.
your car is over 560whp on a dynojet if you almost made 500 on a dd
how much timing were you running up top end?
Ok, here's some from my AutoScope stories. Here's the graph done prior to the one I just posted. It had a 190 pulley (the reason I went with all the cooling & fuel mods) with all the same other mods, ttm,tb rail, and made less power on mustang dyno. Plus, those TB error codes I was getting from the time I picked the car up from Autoscope, Shardul found my tb was loose as a latch was not clamped. The 190 fell off the car the next morning after the install which led me to M-Power & Ted for a 180 pulley (thought more reliable the 190 fall off thing freaked me out) as well as compression test and new plugs. The car made more power with the 180 pulley in whp, the correction factor numbers on the mustang are missleading. Apples to apples are the base numbers.
Oh, and all the tuning was done by the same person, downloaded files until the final custom dyno tune that gave the 493.
No I don't know why Autoscope uses time on the x-axis but look at how jumpy it is.
Last edited by keksixsigma; Jan 5, 2012 at 11:34 AM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I know Grant had a similar issue but I'm not sure who intalled his so I can't speak to it.
I then tuned for c16 and it made 524/635 in 60* heat with 12.3 a/f ratio up top. The timing was 19* at most up top I believe on C16.
I have said this before and will say it again, I have seen tons of muscle cars tuned by tuners that dont have great reputations and even with built motors, they let go. Then you look at the best tuners in the business who can tune stock motors making power that realistically should pop, but they dont. It is ALL in the TUNE. The best tuners make the most power whether the motor is stock or built, and it lasts.



17* advance on pump 91 and maybe 18* on 93 is the most anyone should be running if they want their motor to last. these were numbers that were datalogged YEARS ago and determined to be safe while allowing enough margin for the ecu to compensate if needed. our motors haven't changed, just the greed for hp, so those numbers still apply! back then we never had motor popping problems...even without all the current fueling upgrades.
race tunes/race gas/max hp are another story but these numbers should be considered sacred for street tunes!!!
17* advance on pump 91 and maybe 18* on 93 is the most anyone should be running if they want their motor to last. these were numbers that were datalogged YEARS ago and determined to be safe while allowing enough margin for the ecu to compensate if needed. our motors haven't changed, just the greed for hp, so those numbers still apply! back then we never had motor popping problems...even without all the current fueling upgrades.
race tunes/race gas/max hp are another story but these numbers should be considered sacred for street tunes!!!

What the man is saying is true, Espicaly when considering Stage 2-3 moded cars.
But it's always important to have the big 3 things in check.
Safe install of parts(done by the right people).
The safe right tune.
Data log.
Enjoy in good health

17* advance on pump 91 and maybe 18* on 93 is the most anyone should be running if they want their motor to last. these were numbers that were datalogged YEARS ago and determined to be safe while allowing enough margin for the ecu to compensate if needed. our motors haven't changed, just the greed for hp, so those numbers still apply! back then we never had motor popping problems...even without all the current fueling upgrades.
race tunes/race gas/max hp are another story but these numbers should be considered sacred for street tunes!!!
Consider yourself lucky that only the ring lands on cyl 8 went. Hopefully the wall is OK. Just replace the piston, all rings, valve, valve seals. Easy job.
My engine "blew" two times. First cyl 6 detonated then cyl 8 went couple months after. I just hope it's OK now for a while lol (25k on it after rebuild, still runs STRONG). I still gotta do the injectors. I would help rebuild yours if I lived near you.
Last edited by benz_addict; May 28, 2012 at 03:10 AM.
Consider yourself lucky that only the ring lands on cyl 8 went. Hopefully the wall is OK. Just replace the piston, all rings, valve, valve seals. Easy job.
My engine "blew" two times. First cyl 6 detonated then cyl 8 went couple months after. I just hope it's OK now for a while lol (25k on it after rebuild, still runs STRONG). I still gotta do the injectors. I would help rebuild yours if I lived near you.
Consider yourself lucky that only the ring lands on cyl 8 went. Hopefully the wall is OK. Just replace the piston, all rings, valve, valve seals. Easy job.
My engine "blew" two times. First cyl 6 detonated then cyl 8 went couple months after. I just hope it's OK now for a while lol (25k on it after rebuild, still runs STRONG). I still gotta do the injectors. I would help rebuild yours if I lived near you.












