LTFT in cold weather
Iv been watching my fuel trims and they went from 4.7-5.5 in 50-70 weather to 7.8-8.4 in under 20 degree temps.
Does that mean my kleemann tune is adjusting and adding more fuel in colder weather?
I just hit the dyno and made north of 545whp and the A/F was 11.8 near redline and the temps were about 30d out.
im also only running 12 deg timing up top end and could be the reason my car hasnt blown up yet.
either way just asking if these cars fuel trims are adjusting to the temps and I dont know if it has anything to do with mickey mousing the o2 sensors to not throw codes with no cats and it leaves the car in a state where it cant compensate for denser air.
Im taking my 178 pulley off and going to stock boost since I have made my car impossible to drive in the cold anyways.
I have a video of 3rd gear of me going 180d sideways from just 3k rpms and the temps around 30 or so.There is no tire or lsd that can put the power down and its not worth me blowing up my car so the stock pulley will go back on real soon.
can someone look at there ltft and see if they move on the fly with throttle input.
mine will go from 8 to 5.7 with maybe 10% throttle and then 3.7 with 30% and then 1.4 with 100% wot but they are changing depending on the amount of throttle I give it.
If you have a butchard tune on your car to trick the check engine light from not coming on I would like to know if your ltft change on the fly with throttle input or if they just stay the same with part throttle and full throttle.
Iv been watching my fuel trims and they went from 4.7-5.5 in 50-70 weather to 7.8-8.4 in under 20 degree temps.
Does that mean my kleemann tune is adjusting and adding more fuel in colder weather?
I just hit the dyno and made north of 545whp and the A/F was 11.8 near redline and the temps were about 30d out.
im also only running 12 deg timing up top end and could be the reason my car hasnt blown up yet.
either way just asking if these cars fuel trims are adjusting to the temps and I dont know if it has anything to do with mickey mousing the o2 sensors to not throw codes with no cats and it leaves the car in a state where it cant compensate for denser air.
Im taking my 178 pulley off and going to stock boost since I have made my car impossible to drive in the cold anyways.
I have a video of 3rd gear of me going 180d sideways from just 3k rpms and the temps around 30 or so.There is no tire or lsd that can put the power down and its not worth me blowing up my car so the stock pulley will go back on real soon.
can someone look at there ltft and see if they move on the fly with throttle input.
mine will go from 8 to 5.7 with maybe 10% throttle and then 3.7 with 30% and then 1.4 with 100% wot but they are changing depending on the amount of throttle I give it.
If you have a butchard tune on your car to trick the check engine light from not coming on I would like to know if your ltft change on the fly with throttle input or if they just stay the same with part throttle and full throttle.
went from 168 pulley to 180(78 technically) and then added TB and then changed a few things for better cooling and everything I added mods the car picked up power and the A/F pretty much stayed the same.
Ill be happy if I can run a mid 11 with stock boost pulley and I gave up on 10s at new england drag way.
My best 60ft there is 1.7 with brand new drag radials.the track sucks donkey dick for traction and there is no way any e55 is getting in the 10s there.
Yup 2 friggin 3 plus timing up top. No wonder motors toasted in the old days
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There's also Short Term Fuel Trim that allows it to dump more fuel if conditions are fit in its opinion. A good tune involves quite a number of parameters that all need to be adjusted properly to give you a well running motor in all the different conditions you may run into from below zero to well over 100 degrees and rain or dry, barometric pressure changes even have an effect that needs to be accounted for by that computer.
Mercedes built the brain, your tuner gives it the PHD it needs to deal with all the craziness we put it through. It's amazing how accurate these things are when tuned properly. This is why a good tuner is so important. Not everyone knows how to properly adjust for such an incredible amount of variables, plus you need good condition sensors to give the computer the info it needs to make its decisions.
Basically your computer will know how to deal with whatever weather is thrown at it with a good tune assuming all sensors are reporting correctly and your fuel system is up to doing what the computer asks it to do.
Jim I see 22 max and it lowers going towards redline,but from 5k up its not alot of timing at all.
There's also Short Term Fuel Trim that allows it to dump more fuel if conditions are fit in its opinion. A good tune involves quite a number of parameters that all need to be adjusted properly to give you a well running motor in all the different conditions you may run into from below zero to well over 100 degrees and rain or dry, barometric pressure changes even have an effect that needs to be accounted for by that computer.
Mercedes built the brain, your tuner gives it the PHD it needs to deal with all the craziness we put it through. It's amazing how accurate these things are when tuned properly. This is why a good tuner is so important. Not everyone knows how to properly adjust for such an incredible amount of variables, plus you need good condition sensors to give the computer the info it needs to make its decisions.
Basically your computer will know how to deal with whatever weather is thrown at it with a good tune assuming all sensors are reporting correctly and your fuel system is up to doing what the computer asks it to do.
My ltfts change with throttle input on the fly depending on load and tps and when I go wot they stay solid near 0 but they are always changing with how I drive.
My 02 sensors are working and the catts have been turned off threw another eprom on the ecu.
Very close to 142* F , engine temp
Cheers _PTEngineering
- when you go wot the O2 sensors stop working then the graphs set by the manufacture or tuner works and they adjust with the major parameters like AIT, boost and Knock.
- i have see 55k engine blown with timing at 6 degrees, definitly there must be high ait and high knock and the ecu is retarding to it's max which he can but the knock is still and engine blow. if you have timing below 13-14 then there is something not good and the ecu is retarding.
-stock timing is at 13-14, you can increase it by tuning 4 -5 degree, anything below 13-14 or more then 18-19 is definitely dangerous.
those are my experience with those engines, maybe i am wrong, can someone with more experience please correct me.
What im asking is if you have a tune that wont throw a code for no cats being catless if the ecu is in a limp mode and is not adjusting a/f right with colder air.
Some files wont throw a check engine and leave the ecu in a state where it wont pass or fail readiness on the ecu.
Im curious if some can see if there ltfts change with light input before 3200 rpms.










