chiromikey

jeff at science of speed in chandler is meticulous and nailed my alignment.

i'd been having trouble getting things straightened out (pun intended ) since i slammed the car and added my mbarts adjustable arms and kmac bushings. jeff got camber, toe, and caster set perfectly and now the car is a on rails!!! oh and i have to mention, he charged me 1/3 what the dealer has charged me in the past and my car has much more to adjust now than the dealer has ever had to deal with.

couldn't be happier. only problem is that my tire guy is gonna wonder what happened to me since i won't be buying tires every 3 months!!!

AMGPilot

Glad that you finally got it all worked out. HUGE difference when it's done right!

chiromikey

no kidding. all this time i thought it was my settings when in fact it was the hack that was doing the work!

mikey33

Nice, might need to check it out sometime

dychen

SOS is a great shop they've been doing the NSX, S2000 crowd for years now.

GregMB

What are the specs on the alignment.....camber, caster values, etc?

Curious to know what the "on rails" settings are.

Before vs after info would be very informational.

-G

splinter

Another instance of the right guy doing the work making all the difference.

chiromikey

sorry, i'm not talking about cornering as i've never been one to pretend my e55 was a sports car, so please take my comments with a grain of salt. we just got things set to the aggressive side of within factory specs. my alignment was so far off before that it was dangerous so it's nice to be able to go wot and have it launch dead straight (as if it were on rails).

exactly!

AgSilver

I think you will find this setup to your liking. The car is lowered and balanced, however, you will need KMAC's and toe links.

GregMB

I wish I could read German!

Does that document describe how much lower the car was set? Also, what is the reason that the KMACs and toe links are required? I realize that they are supposed to be stronger than stock and the bushing material is probably harder durometer to prevent deflection under load...but do they also offer more adjustment than factory parts? Or are they optimized for a car that is lowered?

Sorry for all the questions.....


-G

chiromikey

kmacs are a better material (which makes them noisy at low speeds) but more importantly kmacs are adjustable whereas factory are not.

AMGPilot

okay so a quick translation gives us the following numbers. (these are the after numbers, the Before numbers are the first set, the range is the middle and the after is the right)

Front

Caster
left 11º17'
Right 11º19'

Camber
Left -1º40'
right -1º37'

Toe
Left 0º04'
Right 0º04'
Total 0º08'

Rear

Camber
Left -2º08'
Right -2º14'

Toe
Left 0º13'
Right 0º13'
Total 0º25' (looks like it was really 0º12.5' each side)

Thrust angle ZERO (VERY IMPORTANT don't allow them to get away with any thrust angle)

so there you go a good set of alignment numbers

chiromikey

those are damn near my specs exactly, except i have slightly less negative camber in the rear (set to -1.7).

AMGPilot

I kinda knew that. LOL

AgSilver

Your translation is absolutely correct. I should have done that myself with the post. So, thanks for doing it for me.