W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

******How do you pin a W211 E55 crank with it still in the motor, come on in******

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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 05:05 PM
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Cool ******How do you pin a W211 E55 crank with it still in the motor, come on in******

After debating what to do since my broken keyway, we took some time and stepped back to look at the situation.

We came to the consensus, the only way to run a WINDMILL pulley, it to PIN that b***h. BIP went to work, and the following tool was made which enables you to pin the pulley to the crank with it still been in the motor

The way it works is, the round tool is held in place and centered by the crank pulley bolt. It comes with a hardened sleeve in one of the holes of the little round tool, and that is where you use insert the hardened drill bit, and drill it in place. You will drill through the pulley, and into the crank. Once the holes is drilled you insert the pin. We are going to pin my crank in two positions, 12-6 or on total opposite sides

For anyone that is interested, this tool will be for sale

*** The tool is off center in the pics, but it sits perfect for drilling once lined up with plenty of space between the hardened sleeved hole, and the edge of the pulley***







Last edited by chawkins2001; Mar 14, 2012 at 05:09 PM.
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 06:34 PM
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I call dibs if its for sale next ... awesome job bro!
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 06:59 PM
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Very nice job Craig!
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 07:16 PM
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This setup works well and has been proven effective with centrifugal blowers on LS1's for years. Simple and effective. One pin should be enough though as people were spinning Procharger F series blowers to over 1000 HP with one pin like this used in the exact same way.
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 08:50 PM
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Great idea, with a catch. The face of the pulley and the face of the crank do not sit flush, or even remotely close to flush. So, it is going to be a struggle to keep that bit running straight while only half engaged on the pulley before you reach the crank. You will see what I mean when you try it out. As always, good luck.
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 09:25 PM
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I just grabbed this photo from ExoticMetal's thread to illustrate what I am describing. The bit is going to fight you trying to go inward while only being engaged by the pulley. Just keep this in mind when you give it a shot.

http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/a...2-28132454.jpg
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 05:13 AM
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Oh wow yeah that will make it interesting. How deep is the hardened guide hole? I'd make sure to use a freshly sharpened or new bit with a lil cutting oil sprayed on there and be careful.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 07:45 AM
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I will let you guys know how it turns out today.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 08:19 AM
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Very nice
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 08:52 AM
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Thanks brotha, for the peeps wondering about the flushness of the pulley to crank, that wont be an issue because the tool goes inside the pulley and you will not have that issue BK is concerned about.

We are pinning the crank this am, so I will have plenty of pics up of the final result and in progress shots
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by lowprofile
Great idea, with a catch. The face of the pulley and the face of the crank do not sit flush, or even remotely close to flush. So, it is going to be a struggle to keep that bit running straight while only half engaged on the pulley before you reach the crank. You will see what I mean when you try it out. As always, good luck.
I was thinking the same thing. I was also wondering how you will fit the drill without removing the front end of the car but I guess an angle drill will work here. I remember I barely had room with a tiny dremel.

I'm dying to see how this turns out.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by chawkins2001
Thanks brotha, for the peeps wondering about the flushness of the pulley to crank, that wont be an issue because the tool goes inside the pulley and you will not have that issue BK is concerned about.

We are pinning the crank this am, so I will have plenty of pics up of the final result and in progress shots
I'm having trouble imagining it....pics pics pics.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 09:10 AM
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We are using a 90* drill
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by chawkins2001
Thanks brotha, for the peeps wondering about the flushness of the pulley to crank, that wont be an issue because the tool goes inside the pulley and you will not have that issue BK is concerned about.

We are pinning the crank this am, so I will have plenty of pics up of the final result and in progress shots
I'm not trying to shoot down their idea, just making you aware that you have a challenge ahead using this method. I actually tried PM'g you before posting but your mailbox was full.

Please go back and look at pic #1 and #3 and you can clearly see that the hardened guide sits on top, not inside, the pulley. Wish you the best of luck.
Pm me if you have any questions.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 10:38 AM
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It looks like the shot is taken at angle. Lowprofile's point makes a lot of sense but it's hard to tell if the drill is going to be centered or not. Seems like in our application you would want the tip of the drill favoring the pulley side so you aren't fighting it. Or use an end mill instead of a drill and go real slow.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 12:37 PM
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I see lowprofile's point as only half the drill bit would only be contacting crank pulley until you get to the depth of the crank. But why not just throw the pulley on a drill press, drill up to the depth of the crank when installed, install it with the tool and drill the remaining depth?
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BBBSS
This setup works well and has been proven effective with centrifugal blowers on LS1's for years...
+1



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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by splinter
+1






Thank you sir.

This is exactly how it sits, and how it will be drilled and pinned
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 11:26 PM
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Those pics do not apply to the 55K for the reasons lowprofile is talking about. I'll be honest, I have no idea how you are going to pull this off but a lot of people criticized me with my pulley ordeal so I really want to see you pull this off with flying colors.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by GT-ER
Those pics do not apply to the 55K for the reasons lowprofile is talking about.
I'll be honest, I have no idea how you are going to pull this off but a lot of people criticized me with my pulley ordeal so I really want to see you pull this off with flying colors.
Certainly you noticed the LSx reference in BBBSS’ post.
Incidentally, I gave due props for salvaging your otherwise toasted crank keyway via grinder.

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...nk-pulley.html
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 05:24 AM
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Updates, is problem drilling started fine but stayed that way. Could not penetrate the pulley, so they stopped and went back to the drawing board. Ughhh, tell me again why I did not stay with my 180mm. Would have had the car back 2weeks ago.

I am starting to believe in the statement, “ why fix something that is not broken.“
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 05:37 AM
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Would offsetting the guide hole towards the pulley a lil so the point of the drill bit is just over onto the pulley a lil more? That would help keep it centered and biting and still notch the crank enough to keep everything locked together? If you look at the pics above the drill bit point seems to be hitting the pulley not completely centered between the pulley/crank. All you need is a lil bit of the pin to be in a groove on the crank and it ain't going anywhere. From the looks of the pics you posted the drillbit was setup to land perfectly between the crank and pulley 50/50. The tip of the drill bit is trying to walk off the edge and **** the drill bit I'm sure. If you could get it over to a 70/30 bias or so I think it would drill much more easily. Your onto the right idea in my opinion, just need to tweek it a bit.

What material is the crank pulley made of?
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 05:42 AM
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Compare that to the top pin on this picture below and you can see its offset.

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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by chawkins2001
Updates, is problem drilling started fine but stayed that way. Could not penetrate the pulley, so they stopped and went back to the drawing board. Ughhh, tell me again why I did not stay with my 180mm. Would have had the car back 2weeks ago.

I am starting to believe in the statement, “ why fix something that is not broken.“
+1!!! I'm still trying to figure out why i didnt go with the 180 or the 185 that i had to instal? Should of slapped the 185 on and called it a day or went with the upper pulley if i wanted a little more.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 08:18 AM
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Bbbs, I see how that one has a offset but mine does not. I did not make the pulley nor am I doing the drilling, so I am not sure on how your suggestion would benefit the drilling. As far as the composition of the crank pulley, maybe Shardul or Brooke will chime in on that.

I am really aggrevated, I should have just stuck to my original plan of adding a 50shot to my prior setup on my 93 tune, nice and simple. That would have been great for cooling, put me in the 10s, and had a relatively simple combo that is fast and reliable. Now I am left with this freakin mess trying to re-invent the wheel, and I feel there is still a long road ahead in getting my car up and running, back in my garage. At that point I will be extremely nervous about running it hard in fear of another catastrophy. This could easily ruine a persons ability to want to track their car any further.

Me been an impatient person, and wanting everything done yesterday, is not going to be easy to swallow.

Last edited by chawkins2001; Mar 16, 2012 at 01:12 PM.
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