FT-P IC Engine Bay Reservoir Tank Install, Photos, and Results
#1
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,825
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
11 Posts
E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
FT-P IC Engine Bay Reservoir Tank Install, Photos, and Results
Finally completed the installation and have been driving around for a the week. Below are also some test results.
First off, realize I added a few items to the 'kit' including anodized connections and 3/4 coolant hose. All of this added up and not required, more for aesthetics.
Received a few PM's, apologize for the delay posting.
First off, the kit would install the way it arrives though you might want to iron out a few things depending on your level of acceptance. I understand some enhancements are also under way with the kit. Nice.
As stated in another thread the hood tray would have to be removed, mine has been off along with the insulation for over a year with no problem.
Tank fitment is tight and in fact will scratch the body on the right hand side unless you put down flat rubber, clear bra type of protection, etc. At a minimum some duck tape during test fit. Cut innertube,etc.
Though the filter fit fine, expect to trim the mesh. Cannot comment just yet on the effectiveness of the filter element other than it fits. The steel hold down is not protected and will rust so I primed/ painted it, simpler vs powder coating. All is well here. Bracket is very beefy, perhaps a bit much, but that is always better than being too weak, right?
I had to play with it a while to achieve the best angle for the tank installation taking into consideration hose routing and hood clearance. It is a tight fit all over so take your time installing the tank and get it right the first time with hoses connected. Hood clearance is an issue here if not properly installed. Additionally, the lower two bolts from the filter housing will scratch up the bottom of the tank. I bought two rubber grommets/nuts from Lowes that fit perfectly. They also have a small lip for the edge of the tank. This held the bottom of the filter bracket down along with protecting the bottom of the tank.
You can either route the lower hose up and then down the fender well as intended, however the barbs that come with the kit are not the advertised brass units but longer plastic bars. The length of these make for difficulty routing the lower hose up as the bend is too tight for 3/4" hose. You can buy the proper 3/4" shorter brass barbs also at Lowes if you want to continue to route your hose this way. You can also route the hose under the plastic wiper reservoir bracket next to the wiring present to avoid kinks. Myself I just bought a 45 degree anodized 12AN swivel connection to prevent any hose kinks though I still had to trim the top of the reservoir bracket for best fitment (see pic). If you route the unprotected hose this way, keep in mind the hose will rub on top of the plastic angles on this bracket, possible going through it over time.
Anyhow, after the initial startup and testing I noticed leakage from the top of the unit. A little more testing revealed the leak was coming from the black lip surrounding the cap. Not sure if it was an o-ring or silicone I sent an email to Dad's (maker of the tank we all know) and to my surprise I received an email request within minutes to call him (on SUNDAY!).
Donny from Dad's was very pleasant to speak with and explained that it was silicone and to unbolt the lid and reseal. Donny even followed up the following day! That there folks is service! He will certainly get my business with my other project.
Anyhow, once I removed the lid I could see where the silicone was very light and was leaking on the lower left. After a good cleanup, new thick bead of silicone, and 24hr dry time, all was good in the man cave.
Testing:
Prior: '10 Bosch pump & PLM H/E only. I like this H/E as no zip ties are needed for the lower cooler and is a good sized unit. With this setup I received 18-22 degrees above ambient while cruising.
After install of the tank and isolating the engine and SC coolant, 13-17 degrees above ambient. This is with the older engine coolant with only a top off.
After clearing out the entire system, filled with distilled water, and one bottle of Redline WaterWetter. 11-15 degrees above ambient with a few dips to 9degrees above ambient! Again- cruising @55mph.
I have yet to run ice and to be honest I rather use a siphon vs. a drain at this point so no drain valve is installed. I think the kit comes with one, but I did not receive one though FT-P sent an email some time later and asked if I still needed it. I just declined as it likely would not have worked for my setup.
All of the above was cruising at 55mph on 3 or more separate occasions.
Where prior it would take 30 or more seconds for decent recovery from a top end spin, temps now drop down in half this time. Again, your results might vary.
All in all, expect some fiddling to make things work in this 'kit' and some additional money as well. You will definitely need a new shorter barb for the lower hose or cut the plastic unit included. I highly recommend the rubber nuts from Lowes (I have the part #), and some ties for the loose hoses which I routed behind the headlight housing vs going inside the frame next to the other hoses. I also used my kids Playdo for clearance purposes for both the tank and hoses. The kit comes with all plastic pieces which I just tossed out.
At this time no leaks, few hundred miles on the kit and everything is functioning well. Polished it up with some P21. Overall glad I did it.
Anyhow, hope that helps.
UPDATE: Part Numbers
From Summit Racing
Hose End 1
Hose End 2
Notice the gap in silicone on the lower left, that is where it initially leaked. Remove the 6 allen heads and your golden.
Playdo action
Notice where the white plastic trim was grinded down for the lower hose barb to fit...
Painted hold-down and mesh ready to be trimmed.
First off, realize I added a few items to the 'kit' including anodized connections and 3/4 coolant hose. All of this added up and not required, more for aesthetics.
Received a few PM's, apologize for the delay posting.
First off, the kit would install the way it arrives though you might want to iron out a few things depending on your level of acceptance. I understand some enhancements are also under way with the kit. Nice.
As stated in another thread the hood tray would have to be removed, mine has been off along with the insulation for over a year with no problem.
Tank fitment is tight and in fact will scratch the body on the right hand side unless you put down flat rubber, clear bra type of protection, etc. At a minimum some duck tape during test fit. Cut innertube,etc.
Though the filter fit fine, expect to trim the mesh. Cannot comment just yet on the effectiveness of the filter element other than it fits. The steel hold down is not protected and will rust so I primed/ painted it, simpler vs powder coating. All is well here. Bracket is very beefy, perhaps a bit much, but that is always better than being too weak, right?
I had to play with it a while to achieve the best angle for the tank installation taking into consideration hose routing and hood clearance. It is a tight fit all over so take your time installing the tank and get it right the first time with hoses connected. Hood clearance is an issue here if not properly installed. Additionally, the lower two bolts from the filter housing will scratch up the bottom of the tank. I bought two rubber grommets/nuts from Lowes that fit perfectly. They also have a small lip for the edge of the tank. This held the bottom of the filter bracket down along with protecting the bottom of the tank.
You can either route the lower hose up and then down the fender well as intended, however the barbs that come with the kit are not the advertised brass units but longer plastic bars. The length of these make for difficulty routing the lower hose up as the bend is too tight for 3/4" hose. You can buy the proper 3/4" shorter brass barbs also at Lowes if you want to continue to route your hose this way. You can also route the hose under the plastic wiper reservoir bracket next to the wiring present to avoid kinks. Myself I just bought a 45 degree anodized 12AN swivel connection to prevent any hose kinks though I still had to trim the top of the reservoir bracket for best fitment (see pic). If you route the unprotected hose this way, keep in mind the hose will rub on top of the plastic angles on this bracket, possible going through it over time.
Anyhow, after the initial startup and testing I noticed leakage from the top of the unit. A little more testing revealed the leak was coming from the black lip surrounding the cap. Not sure if it was an o-ring or silicone I sent an email to Dad's (maker of the tank we all know) and to my surprise I received an email request within minutes to call him (on SUNDAY!).
Donny from Dad's was very pleasant to speak with and explained that it was silicone and to unbolt the lid and reseal. Donny even followed up the following day! That there folks is service! He will certainly get my business with my other project.
Anyhow, once I removed the lid I could see where the silicone was very light and was leaking on the lower left. After a good cleanup, new thick bead of silicone, and 24hr dry time, all was good in the man cave.
Testing:
Prior: '10 Bosch pump & PLM H/E only. I like this H/E as no zip ties are needed for the lower cooler and is a good sized unit. With this setup I received 18-22 degrees above ambient while cruising.
After install of the tank and isolating the engine and SC coolant, 13-17 degrees above ambient. This is with the older engine coolant with only a top off.
After clearing out the entire system, filled with distilled water, and one bottle of Redline WaterWetter. 11-15 degrees above ambient with a few dips to 9degrees above ambient! Again- cruising @55mph.
I have yet to run ice and to be honest I rather use a siphon vs. a drain at this point so no drain valve is installed. I think the kit comes with one, but I did not receive one though FT-P sent an email some time later and asked if I still needed it. I just declined as it likely would not have worked for my setup.
All of the above was cruising at 55mph on 3 or more separate occasions.
Where prior it would take 30 or more seconds for decent recovery from a top end spin, temps now drop down in half this time. Again, your results might vary.
All in all, expect some fiddling to make things work in this 'kit' and some additional money as well. You will definitely need a new shorter barb for the lower hose or cut the plastic unit included. I highly recommend the rubber nuts from Lowes (I have the part #), and some ties for the loose hoses which I routed behind the headlight housing vs going inside the frame next to the other hoses. I also used my kids Playdo for clearance purposes for both the tank and hoses. The kit comes with all plastic pieces which I just tossed out.
At this time no leaks, few hundred miles on the kit and everything is functioning well. Polished it up with some P21. Overall glad I did it.
Anyhow, hope that helps.
UPDATE: Part Numbers
From Summit Racing
Hose End 1
Hose End 2
Notice the gap in silicone on the lower left, that is where it initially leaked. Remove the 6 allen heads and your golden.
Playdo action
Notice where the white plastic trim was grinded down for the lower hose barb to fit...
Painted hold-down and mesh ready to be trimmed.
Last edited by pearlpower; 09-18-2012 at 06:48 PM.
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,825
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
11 Posts
E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
More pics. Rubber 'Lowes' nuts on bottom to protect the bottom of the tank.
TIP: If you have ever played with braided hose you know perforated fingers are the norm, and cutting can be a PITA. Wrap tape to prevent fraying, then cut, I used a Dremel.
TIP: If you have ever played with braided hose you know perforated fingers are the norm, and cutting can be a PITA. Wrap tape to prevent fraying, then cut, I used a Dremel.
Last edited by pearlpower; 09-07-2012 at 11:30 PM.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Northern Va
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
3 Posts
Dirt Scooters
Looks clean for sure. I had the same problem with my trunk tank and just took the lid of and re-sealed it. I've gotten E-mails from Donny about custom stuff for my car and other projects in the middle of the night so the man is on top of customer service.
#7
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Sumwhere in TEXAS
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2005 E55 AMG....Speed is Relaxin'
Looks GREAT !! Awesome install and plumbing, looks like a professional
INDY car FAB shop install. Initial temp drops look good. I am VERY interested in your final drop in temps & recovery times after you put some hard runs on car. I currently have CM30 with PLM exchanger and in Austin Texas been heat soaked a few times.
INDY car FAB shop install. Initial temp drops look good. I am VERY interested in your final drop in temps & recovery times after you put some hard runs on car. I currently have CM30 with PLM exchanger and in Austin Texas been heat soaked a few times.
Trending Topics
#11
Senior Member
Install looks great!
I just received my tank and would like to duplicate your install. do you have the part numbers for the extra parts you ordered? Rubber 'Lowes' nuts, anodized connections/fittings/clamps and 3/4 Braded coolant hose. I don't have a local source and will need to find online.
Thanks
I just received my tank and would like to duplicate your install. do you have the part numbers for the extra parts you ordered? Rubber 'Lowes' nuts, anodized connections/fittings/clamps and 3/4 Braded coolant hose. I don't have a local source and will need to find online.
Thanks
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,825
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
11 Posts
E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
Install looks great!
I just received my tank and would like to duplicate your install. do you have the part numbers for the extra parts you ordered? Rubber 'Lowes' nuts, anodized connections/fittings/clamps and 3/4 Braded coolant hose. I don't have a local source and will need to find online.
Thanks
I just received my tank and would like to duplicate your install. do you have the part numbers for the extra parts you ordered? Rubber 'Lowes' nuts, anodized connections/fittings/clamps and 3/4 Braded coolant hose. I don't have a local source and will need to find online.
Thanks
Looks GREAT !! Awesome install and plumbing, looks like a professional
INDY car FAB shop install. Initial temp drops look good. I am VERY interested in your final drop in temps & recovery times after you put some hard runs on car. I currently have CM30 with PLM exchanger and in Austin Texas been heat soaked a few times.
INDY car FAB shop install. Initial temp drops look good. I am VERY interested in your final drop in temps & recovery times after you put some hard runs on car. I currently have CM30 with PLM exchanger and in Austin Texas been heat soaked a few times.
That is the question, as I did not receive one, then received a PM if I still wanted it.
Thank you.
#16
Former Vendor of MBWorld
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Houston
Posts: 12,139
Received 292 Likes
on
241 Posts
2003 W211 E55, 2003 W220 S600
I think once you factor in a drain valve it will allow you to add ice on the fly without using a siphon pump.
Also cover the airmatic line so it is not compromised with the ss tubing.
Also cover the airmatic line so it is not compromised with the ss tubing.
Last edited by shardul; 09-08-2012 at 07:32 PM.
#19
Former Vendor of MBWorld
Thanks for the write up and pictures Lee. Your info has been extremly valuable, and it is helping us make some small changes to our product to make it even better. Again awesome write up and pictures!!
Last edited by FT-Performance; 09-09-2012 at 12:45 AM.
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,825
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
11 Posts
E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
Thanks for the suggestion, it actually does not touch but driving around it could be bumpin.....so a small rubber hose should do it
#23
Former Vendor of MBWorld