Finally completed the installation and have been driving around for a the week. Below are also some test results.

First off, realize I added a few items to the 'kit' including anodized connections and 3/4 coolant hose. All of this added up and not required, more for aesthetics.

Received a few PM's, apologize for the delay posting.

First off, the kit would install the way it arrives though you might want to iron out a few things depending on your level of acceptance. I understand some enhancements are also under way with the kit. Nice.

As stated in another thread the hood tray would have to be removed, mine has been off along with the insulation for over a year with no problem.

Tank fitment is tight and in fact will scratch the body on the right hand side unless you put down flat rubber, clear bra type of protection, etc. At a minimum some duck tape during test fit. Cut innertube,etc.

Though the filter fit fine, expect to trim the mesh. Cannot comment just yet on the effectiveness of the filter element other than it fits. The steel hold down is not protected and will rust so I primed/ painted it, simpler vs powder coating. All is well here. Bracket is very beefy, perhaps a bit much, but that is always better than being too weak, right?

I had to play with it a while to achieve the best angle for the tank installation taking into consideration hose routing and hood clearance. It is a tight fit all over so take your time installing the tank and get it right the first time with hoses connected. Hood clearance is an issue here if not properly installed. Additionally, the lower two bolts from the filter housing will scratch up the bottom of the tank. I bought two rubber grommets/nuts from Lowes that fit perfectly. They also have a small lip for the edge of the tank. This held the bottom of the filter bracket down along with protecting the bottom of the tank.

You can either route the lower hose up and then down the fender well as intended, however the barbs that come with the kit are not the advertised brass units but longer plastic bars. The length of these make for difficulty routing the lower hose up as the bend is too tight for 3/4" hose. You can buy the proper 3/4" shorter brass barbs also at Lowes if you want to continue to route your hose this way. You can also route the hose under the plastic wiper reservoir bracket next to the wiring present to avoid kinks. Myself I just bought a 45 degree anodized 12AN swivel connection to prevent any hose kinks though I still had to trim the top of the reservoir bracket for best fitment (see pic). If you route the unprotected hose this way, keep in mind the hose will rub on top of the plastic angles on this bracket, possible going through it over time.

Anyhow, after the initial startup and testing I noticed leakage from the top of the unit. A little more testing revealed the leak was coming from the black lip surrounding the cap. Not sure if it was an o-ring or silicone I sent an email to Dad's (maker of the tank we all know) and to my surprise I received an email request within minutes to call him (on SUNDAY!).

Donny from Dad's was very pleasant to speak with and explained that it was silicone and to unbolt the lid and reseal. Donny even followed up the following day! That there folks is service! He will certainly get my business with my other project.

Anyhow, once I removed the lid I could see where the silicone was very light and was leaking on the lower left. After a good cleanup, new thick bead of silicone, and 24hr dry time, all was good in the man cave.

Testing:

Prior: '10 Bosch pump & PLM H/E only. I like this H/E as no zip ties are needed for the lower cooler and is a good sized unit. With this setup I received 18-22 degrees above ambient while cruising.

After install of the tank and isolating the engine and SC coolant, 13-17 degrees above ambient. This is with the older engine coolant with only a top off.

After clearing out the entire system, filled with distilled water, and one bottle of Redline WaterWetter. 11-15 degrees above ambient with a few dips to 9degrees above ambient! Again- cruising @55mph.

I have yet to run ice and to be honest I rather use a siphon vs. a drain at this point so no drain valve is installed. I think the kit comes with one, but I did not receive one though FT-P sent an email some time later and asked if I still needed it. I just declined as it likely would not have worked for my setup.

All of the above was cruising at 55mph on 3 or more separate occasions.

Where prior it would take 30 or more seconds for decent recovery from a top end spin, temps now drop down in half this time. Again, your results might vary.

All in all, expect some fiddling to make things work in this 'kit' and some additional money as well. You will definitely need a new shorter barb for the lower hose or cut the plastic unit included. I highly recommend the rubber nuts from Lowes (I have the part #), and some ties for the loose hoses which I routed behind the headlight housing vs going inside the frame next to the other hoses. I also used my kids Playdo for clearance purposes for both the tank and hoses. The kit comes with all plastic pieces which I just tossed out.

At this time no leaks, few hundred miles on the kit and everything is functioning well. Polished it up with some P21. Overall glad I did it.

Anyhow, hope that helps.

UPDATE: Part Numbers

From Summit Racing
Hose End 1
Hose End 2




Notice the gap in silicone on the lower left, that is where it initially leaked. Remove the 6 allen heads and your golden.















Playdo action







Notice where the white plastic trim was grinded down for the lower hose barb to fit...




Painted hold-down and mesh ready to be trimmed.

 

More pics. Rubber 'Lowes' nuts on bottom to protect the bottom of the tank.



TIP: If you have ever played with braided hose you know perforated fingers are the norm, and cutting can be a PITA. Wrap tape to prevent fraying, then cut, I used a Dremel.

 

Looks clean for sure. I had the same problem with my trunk tank and just took the lid of and re-sealed it. I've gotten E-mails from Donny about custom stuff for my car and other projects in the middle of the night so the man is on top of customer service.

 

Looks good.

 

Good work can you post some pictures of the drain valve

 

Damn, looks really good.

I would love to see WOT runs before and after.

 

Looks GREAT !! Awesome install and plumbing, looks like a professional
INDY car FAB shop install. Initial temp drops look good. I am VERY interested in your final drop in temps & recovery times after you put some hard runs on car. I currently have CM30 with PLM exchanger and in Austin Texas been heat soaked a few times.

 

Your girl looks so clean, great write up and install. How many miles on that girl?

 

Nice depth of field in a few of those pics

 

Glad you got it to work...Now post some data under WOT

 

Install looks great!
I just received my tank and would like to duplicate your install. do you have the part numbers for the extra parts you ordered? Rubber 'Lowes' nuts, anodized connections/fittings/clamps and 3/4 Braded coolant hose. I don't have a local source and will need to find online.

Thanks

 

dats purdy nice!

 

Great write up and looks so professional

 

looks great!

 

110,000 miles and climbing! 40k in one year alone years back when it was a DD, these days it could go weeks without starting if I'm out of town.

Sure, give me till later, I still have the packages.

My temps went down after going back to the '10 pump vs the CM30. I posted a thread here.

That is the question, as I did not receive one, then received a PM if I still wanted it.

Thank you.

 

I think once you factor in a drain valve it will allow you to add ice on the fly without using a siphon pump.
Also cover the airmatic line so it is not compromised with the ss tubing.

 

So the purpose of the drain valve is to drain excess fluid to be able to put in ice?

 

That's clean. Very nice write up sir!

 

Thanks for the write up and pictures Lee. Your info has been extremly valuable, and it is helping us make some small changes to our product to make it even better. Again awesome write up and pictures!!

 

I start it with the siphon, then let it flow, goes quick, Would think a drain valve would just allow the fluid to run under the car uncontrolled being where it is. Would be nice if it did have a separate valve on the bottom where I could connect a hose to siphon out.

Thanks for the suggestion, it actually does not touch but driving around it could be bumpin.....so a small rubber hose should do it

 

Thanks for 'email' this morning Steve. Appreciate it. Let me know when you have those headers ready.

 

Bump for wot iat's data.

 

Will do! and Thanks again Lee!!

 

Great install!!!

 

Those pictures really set it off...could you take some of my car, LOL?