How do i get these *******s loose? I have the rear of the car on ramps... Tried an electric impact wrench 'returned it' -- too weak 230lbs... tried to breaker bar it but not enough space.

Will a 350lb impact wrench do the trick???? Or do i need to put the car on a rack and break the bolts loose with a longer bar? Would heating up the bolts help alot??

 

I assume you mean the T18 bolts that hold the callipers on ?

 

longer 1/2" bar will do the job

 

What Shardul said. You doing upgraded calipers or just going to paint them?

 

If they are at 130 Lb/Ft or more even a breaker bar is going to be difficult since there is not much room to get it in there with leverage. I Just did my rear pads and rotors last weekend but I took into the dealer first and had them break the bolts loose and retighten to 100 Lb/Ft...much easier up on a lift. They did this for free since it was in getting camber bolts installed. I bet you could get it done for under $25 if that's all they are doing for you.

It's nearly impossible to get those loose without the car on a lift IMO

 

Those are a ***** to get loose. I had to get them loosened by a shop too. Even they had to go find their highest rated impact gun.

 

Its almost impossible tbh... I nearly gave up 3 x over a full day trying to get them off. I ended up using a 3' breaker bar ... also I dont think I used a E18 socket. Think I ended up using a hexsocket and it managed to bind and bite with the bolts better. Once you hear the creak you know you had it cracked ... nicest sound I've heard wrenching for a long time.

The best way is to get an inline open socket, so you are applying the torque in line with the head of the bolt - like this....

http://www.img-automotive.co.uk/torq...r-14-18mm.html

most sockets leave you a little offset and when the pressure mounts the torque gets deflected.

Good luck ... !

 

I just want to do an OEM rotor replacement. Not enough room to get the leverage but I did manage to rip a non-impact socket with my normal rachet.

I guess I can try it later when I am better prepared.... either I find more space 'lift'. Or I get a stronger impact wrench.... already have a new impact socket and breaker bar.

While I am in the area, I want to cut out the dust shields.

Will applying some heat 'torch' help break the bolts?

 

The most bad A$$ impact wrench avaliable. 1000 ft/lbs brake torque.
I have yet to have a bolt or nut that can beat it.

http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.c...FclM4Aod3ikAVw

 

Still not got mine off yet ......
Going to take it too the local garage and have them do it with a impact gun .

 

Great reason to get new toys...I was trying to do my front brakes and using a 300lb wrench had no luck...

4 days later - this showed up at my door?


and Zzzwwwiiingggggggg...off comes the bolts...And only a meer 51 smackos!

This weekend I plan to do the rears...I'll let you know if the 500lbs this one has is enough...

Cheers
JP

 

Good tool !!!
Got mine off in the end , long braker bar and a strong boot
The fronts are just as bad , broke 2 sockets so far , quite hard to get on to the bolts square . A little tip I wish I had found earlier for fronts , remove the caliper from the bracket first , then you can get to the bracket bolts a lot easier .
Should soon have my 12 piston calipers and floating discks on the front

 

I turned my wheel and was able to get this Wrench on the bolt with a standard impact socket...

But I did buy 4 NEW Caliper bolts (that also came with blue loctite on them) for the re-install - safe and cheap and not that the ones I pulled off were stripped but if I needed to pull them off again - they were nice and not rounded in anyway.

Thought it was odd though the fronts were HEX and the rears are TORX?

Cheers
JP

 

kit for new handbrake shoes has hex bolts for rear calipers now.

I wonder why....

 

Defeated today as well. Pains me to put the old pads back in and have to go with my $$ to a shop just to break these loose.

The front hex on my 2007 was easy. Guess the better angle had by turning the wheel helps, but no way those were as tight.

 

Good to know that they are a pain in the azzz

 

.

I always thought the rotor was held on by the little m6 torx or allen head set screws.

when you say car is on ramps how are you loosening rotor bolts off , if you still have the wheels on? or do you mean jackstands and wheels are off..

or are you reffering to the caliper bolts ?

 

i quickly gave up on mine.. MB dealer had issues getting them off also so i didnt feel bad.

 

Ok, everything is back together. New Evosport rotors, OEM pads, and Titanium shims. I will post a new thread after I download some photos. Time to clean up and bed the new pads.

 

Where did you source the new rear caliper bolts from? I am having a tough time with the rear bolts on my e55. I am afraid that if I keep trying that I am going to round the bolt head off. Please help!!

 

Had to give up and have the rears done at the shop.