urbamworm

Didn't even think about that. Guess I will just be cleaning the crank and doing the 2 pins.

GT-ER

Damn, I even dreamt that MY pulley fell off last night...LOLLLL.

Manuyc

I can't wait to see how it turns out. Good luck!

PTE

To Me that bolt looks SILVER in color, If the color is not Flushed out from the Flash in the camera. If it is really a silver color and it is a MB OEM bolt. It has a Hardness rating of 10.9 with a proof load of 830 MPa The OEM bolt is colored Black with a Hardness rating 12.9 with a proof load of 970 MPA
1MPa = 145 Pounds / inch2

That being , if the head of the bolt is labeled KAMAX 10.9 this may have some of the contributing factor to the issue. Please look closer and let us know
Cheers _PTEngineering

Exotic-metal55

I hope it all works out for you and anxiously waiting to see your completed intercooler!

One thing that is overlooked on using larger pulley`s, is the bolt. We modify the hell out of the pulley and and use the factory bolt that holds this big beast on! This is why we use ARP race bolts and we stock hundreds of them.

See pic below
The front bolt with 12 point head is the ARP bolt we had made. Behind them is our stock AMG crank bolt with rounded 6 point head (sucks to torque right) and note that they are just thrown in a bag at MB plant , threads exposed and cheap pint chipping off.

ARP 12 point head bolt is a machined , re-usable bolt that can be torqued a lot higher than factory, easier to torque and hold accurate torque settings with this fastener. I have torqued a lot of factory bolts and they are hard to torque. They bind up, arm shakes and rounded socket edges allow for to much slip when torquing. When I torqued the ARP on my engine, it was smooth, easy and went right up to 250 ft lbs with no struggle or doubt when my wrench clicked off.



ARP lube pack for threads is the blue packet you see.

GT-ER

Hey, you are right. Didn't notice that. His bolt looks like the non-supercharged M113 bolts ( silver in color ).

pearlpower

Thinking I should pin mine just to be safe. Nice easy job for some insurance.

GT-ER

Yup.

gaspam

yep, mine is pinned now and helps me sleep a little better at night

urbamworm

That is correct, the bolt is silver and is a 10.9 hardness stamped on head of bolt. I picked up a bolt this morning from MB for $30!! Man they are proud of that bolt, and it is black and says 12.9 on it just like you are saying.

urbamworm

Took out the fan to make some more room, might take radiator out as well, but with fan gone there is a lot more room to work in there.







And just changed out my voltage regulator, looks like the leads on the old one were worn down a good bit.

urbamworm

If I can get this thing going I plan on driving down south again for Christmas in a few days. I will do my best to work on the intercoolers some more as long as my friend's father is available to do some welding for me and isn't to busy with paying customers.

All the stuff is just sitting down there at his shop where I left it from last time I made it down. I need to do some modifying and cut the cast tank down some off the sides since they sit a little to close to the side of the engine bay.

lowprofile

Here's the part # for the crank seal A 023 997 84 47

urbamworm

Thanks, I already have one coming though along with a battery control module ordered last night from Genuine Mercedes Parts. Everything should be here tomorrow at some point (pulley, seal, pinning kit, etc)

pearlpower

which pin kit did you go with? Anyone have any recommendations? Nothing Mickey Mouse. I need to pull my valve cover gaskets to seal and spray so might as well add a pin job to day.

urbamworm

The one BIP made to do Chawkins2001's car. Apparently a few people have used one from them from what I was told.

I have decided to bring the car to a Euro car shop to have them drill it also, gonna get it towed over tomorrow and bring all the parts to them when I receive them. I figured I don't have the tool to hold the crank to torque the bolt so I might as well just bring the car to them and have them do the pinning and install the pulley. The place is ran by 2 guys that worked for Brumos Mercedes Benz for a brief period (a year or 2) and then worked for Brumos Porsche for 20 and 25 years and recently opened up their own place.

The one guy said some of the Porsches actually use a pin between the pulley and crank like what I am having done so he was familiar with what I wanted and said they could handle it no problem. I also spoke to him about doing rear end gear swap and the other guy said he could do that no problem as well when ever I am ready. He said as long as there isn't a certain preload setting needed which you need some special tools for he can do the swap and set the backlash with a dial indicator.

With this main issue happening I will not go through with the gears this go around now like I had wanted but am glad to know I have a place to go now when I am ready again.

PACougar

I'm glad to see everything working out for you David, it always helps to find a reputable shop!

e55amgrocket

Pat at PTE designed a kit just for the crank. Might want to check into that also.

urbamworm

What do you mean by "just for the crank?"

e55amgrocket

Pay at PTE has a crank snout repair kit the ARP signed off on the design of it and he said he has 6 kits in stock I think. I believe he posted pics in my build thread.

urbamworm

Well, the post office sucks, they said the pulley would be delivered yesterday (sent Priority mail) but it came today and at the end of the day at that so there have been 2 wasted days waiting on it.

Stock pulley



And a kit to drill the pulley/crank to install pin setup.



Hope it goes well tomorrow and they get it finished no problem.

black06c230

good luck

urbamworm

Well I got the car back today and made a 90 mile trip for the night and will go another 450ish tomorrow. So far so good with the pulley, I have got on it a few times briefly but nothing to crazy. The shop put one pin in and did it differently than I was expecting but I guess it works.

What they did is measure out to the front of the crank from where the key was sheared in the back of the crank. They made a mark on the crank so they would be drilling to where the slot in the pulley that would normally line up with the keyway would now line up with the pin. They drilled the crank and set the little pin in the channel of the crank that was drilled and slid the pulley on then bolted it up.

I guess this way is good for a future pulley change since the normal keyway of the pulley will align with the new "keyway" of the pin for timing purposes. I am not sure on how tight of a fit the pin is with the pulley since it is lining up with the square keyway of the pulley and not an actual half oval slot from drilling to match the round shape of the pin. I suppose after all, the keyway was only for alignment purposes and the bolt does all the work holding the pulley in place (for the most part anyway).

I left a camera for them to take pics, some were bad from the flash, but this is pretty much all I have to show.










Now, to another little thing that has me confused/worried. When I was leaving town the car did a rough shift, this has happened before more than once and you guys may have experienced this. The rpms were up from throttle input but then I let off and it never shifted then it shifts late after letting off and does a hard clunk shift. I went to accelerate after turning a corner at a light and the car was staying in 1 gear and wouldn't shift like it knocked me in to limp mode. I pulled over, shut the car off and after restart all was well and I went on my way for the other 85 miles. Since this had happened before both at the track after doing a burnout and on the street from a hard shift I wasn't to alarmed.

I arrived at my first destination for dinner, then after headed to where I would be staying for the night. I was cruising through the neighborhood and pretty sure there wasn't any kind of bad shift since I was just cruising in and out of the throttle a little as I was going around twisty roads of the neighborhood. I went to get back in the throttle and the car revved freely like I was in neutral. I let off and hit the gas again and still nothing, I put it in neutral and back in gear while coasting and still nothing. I pulled over, shut the car off and restarted and it went in to gear and shifted through gears the rest of the way until I got to the house.

This 2nd occurance is what has me a little confused/worried, there didn't seem to be anything weird happening and it out of nowhere goes in to a limp mode neutral type thing. I don't know what could have caused that, I just hope I don't have any trouble on my long trip tomorrow.


All this aside I have some people to thank. One thing I have come to find out about this community is when people are in need, there are others willing to help who don't expect anything in return. People who will spend money out of their own pocket to help you out and don't want repayment. I can say with certaintly that it is a pretty amazing thing to have happen to you when you are in a tough situation and feeling pretty down.

During this time there have been a few members, those being Craig (Chawkins2001) who took the initiative and money to have the little crank drilling kit made in which others can now benefit from. He was helpful in talking with on the phone and getting ahold of another member who currently had the kit to have them ship it to me. So I thank you for that Craig.

Next the man who had the kit, Ali (Adianity) shipped the kit right out to me Fedex overnight shipping. He never asked for any money for shipping and after attempting to repay him he was just happy to help and didn't want anything from me. I really appreciate that, thanks a lot Ali.

Gavin (War Tank) hooked me up with a friend of his who had a stock pulley for sale and his friend Ingram shipped it out the day I called him. USPS screwed me a little delivering it a day late from what the scheduled delivery was said to be so it put me a day behind on getting this fixed but it finally made it to me. Thanks Gavin.

And this last guy just keeps hooking me up, first I had a supercharger belt snap while out doing some runs back at the beginning of the year during the Miami tuning day. His car was going to be staying at the shop overnight and him knowing I was going to be driving another 150 miles south when I left the shop at 3am gave me the supercharger belt off his car. He wouldn't take my money knowing he was going to have to buy a new one the next day. I have the stock crank pulley back on the car but still have the black idler pulley that gets swapped when you put on a bigger pulley (the 180 I had) but didn' have the little stock black pulley to put back on.

Elliot (Redbulljnky) hooked me up with one he had and got it out in the mail, and of course again, he wouldn't take my money! I have met Elliot a few times in person and I am glad I have because he is a good dude and it is nice to know there are good people out there. I really appreciate it Elliot.

Hopefully from this point on I live happily ever after because this has been one stressful week and I hate stress.

I can tell you I instantly noticed the lack of torque from the 180 to stock pulley jump as well as I am sure a more rich air/fuel mixture until I hook up witnh Jerry from Eurocharged for the supercharger pulley and he then fixes the tune. It is kind of weird too actually having more traction even though it was pretty cold tonight in the low 50s while I was driving around.

PTE

I believe that everyone of those , whom helped you are JAM UP.!! Enjoy your holidays in the FLA Keys. The helping Hands are at rest, knowing your time with friends and family will be the best. No Stress on your mind about your Car.
Cheers _PTEngineering

Celicasaur

It's lovely to hear that the guys pulled together to help you out. I hope it works out well for you.

I had a similar thing with the Celica enthusiasts when my built motor failed...they all helped with parts and arranging things which was really touching.