I figured this deserved it's own thread. After WAY to long of a wait i've finally got what i need to get things rolling again.

Nice. Staying tuned...!!

The rods look fantastic! Whatd they end up weighing?

Ill get that tomorrow.

I'm surprised Eagle/Scat doesn't make an affordable H beam, and that Wiseco doesn't make an affordable piston. I know both company's H beam rods come from the same factory in China, but from my world we run a cheapo set of eagles with a set of 4032 Mahle pistons at 600 whp all day long and then some. This is beating the absolute **** out of them on a daily 30+ psi basis. Keep in mind this is with a 2 liter.

Its been a while since I've put a block together. I'd love to get a bad 5.5 liter to tear down and rebuild.... Hmm......

What kind of ring gaps and piston to wall are you thinking?
Are the pistons 2618?

Should have made an extra one to hang up as a piece of art.

I was going to get 2 pistons and rods made just in case they were needed but to damn expensive for wall art

stock rod and piston for comparison

For some reason the pictures come out tiny for me.

I still insist the oem setup can handle big power using a better power adder and good tuning. I've seen the rods and pistons up close and they look better than a lot of rods and pistons I've seen for other engines that hold way more power than people here have been making.

Perhaps with the Weistec we'll see 800+whp on the stock engine and with turbo's...1000whp.

The pictures in the build thread are better. I thought the same but sent rods off to be tested and everyone came up with the same conclusion of what they would call safe limits and I plan to be well past that. The bigger problem is the rod bolts are pretty small from the factory. I've seen several broken rods now so I think it's a goo investment. Peace of mind goes a long ways when your going after 4 digit power numbers.

I wouldn't try to push 4 digit numbers on the stock engine either but woildn't surprised if someone gets there. After seeing the stock GM 3.8 V6 holding 800whp and survive on many runs it really makes me wonder about the M113. Rod bolts don't do much to hold power but rather rpms.

Same thing I always thought until I was told differently by Oliver. They said if I stayed on stock rods limit rpm to 6200 and keep fingers crossed. Not good enough for me

Rods bolts are affected by hp but not remotely as much as they are by rpm. Regardless, a stronger set of fasteners from arp aren't all that expensive. Especially when you start swapping out pistons and rods for heavier components and reciprocating mass sky rockets.

Guess we can agree to disagree. Not my first time building something and when I do I do it right and don't take short cuts. Kinda stupid to build a motor and put stock rods in with ARP bolts after seeing broken rods from other people and having the rods tested by 3 different people at this point. I did plan to stick with stock and use ARP 625 bolts until everyone came to the same conclusion. I'm not looking for a engine to make 800hp for a couple days or weeks. I'm looking to make 800+ and drive it all the time.

Are you building the motor or is someone else?

I would make a bet ring lands would crack on a high horsepower properly tuned car before it tossed a rod. Ask me how I know.

Piston breaking is either a bad piston or in the tune. I've seen so many ford mod motors snap rods and window the block making over 700hp and the piston will look like new. I've seen a couple first hand and they broke at a fairly low rpm. With these rods it won't be tossing a rod unless something really bad happens.

That is very untrue. A cast piston WILL fail at the ring land under heavy load for sustained periods. This is true even with a proper tune. A cast piston will also fail at the ring lands from crappy tuning. Properly tuned high horsepower applications (2618 piston hung on steel rods (I or H) beam are very hard on rod bearings.

When I say high horsepower I'm referring to 200+ hp per cylinder. People switch to an aluminum rod at the expense of frequent torquing of the rod caps, which is substantially cheaper then changing rod bearings once a race or once a season. This is all depending on the type or racing and of course power levels. I do not think any one with these cars will need to worry about these kind of issues any time soon.

Do you know what material the pistons you bought were made from?

It's unlikely that they're anything but 2618

I would hope that to be true. 4032 is always a possibility.

You are correct lol

Very nice! Look forward to your progress!

Knowing that it was a supercharged application, Diamond would not recommend 4032 alloy.

You are correct lol plus hard anodized "just incase"