W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

Killer Chiller installed / heat exchanger removed = 50 degree IATS !

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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 02:27 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by dllhg
I just found a post on another forum for jags. Perhaps I wont do meth with KC .

"I had problems with the piston rings, the car started to use a quart of oil every couple of hundred miles. It turns out the water meth alone is fine but with the Killer Chiller it was turning the mist or steam into water droplets. The water meth is a good idea but not needed with the Twin Screw. "
link to this discussion?
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by black06c230
can you provide a pic of your tank ginstalled? and again my IATs were never that high with my 180 which is similar to you 185, but a 195 is a whole new ballpark. plus i still kind of want to do the smaller upper SC pulley, which I feel would then require me to get a tank.
Not mine but same tank. You want to do the upper SC pulley on top of your 195 pulley ?
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 03:19 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by black06c230
link to this discussion?
http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk...chiller-84361/

Only thing that makes sense to me is that the water isnt hitting a hot blower and vaporizing like you want it to.
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 10:50 AM
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I am running the EC HE and Bosch 010 pump on the car currently. I wasn't planning to delete the HE unless it truly does benefit more without it.

Are you guys saying it is MORE beneficial to delete the HE when running the Killer Chiller on our cars?
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 11:05 AM
  #30  
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Yes of course, or else you are making the water cold below ambient and then if it goes through the he it will heat up again, it's Counter productive
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ArmoE55
I am running the EC HE and Bosch 010 pump on the car currently. I wasn't planning to delete the HE unless it truly does benefit more without it.

Are you guys saying it is MORE beneficial to delete the HE when running the Killer Chiller on our cars?
yes once it is warmer outside say 60*+ then you should bypass the HE, I saw a 10-15* drop bypassing the HE.
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 04:36 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ArmoE55
I am running the EC HE and Bosch 010 pump on the car currently. I wasn't planning to delete the HE unless it truly does benefit more without it.

Are you guys saying it is MORE beneficial to delete the HE when running the Killer Chiller on our cars?
yes and no... if you arent doing a lot of WOT pulls then deleting the HE would be better as the KC would be always on... but if you are doing a lot of WOT pulls or really long highway WOT pulls then you would want the HE in place because once you go WOT the A/c goes off and thus so does your KC cooling.
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 04:43 PM
  #33  
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Wrong, as long as you have a tank with cold water no need for the HE
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 04:45 PM
  #34  
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hows the water gonna stay cool on a 30 sec wot run when the KC if off? you dont think its gonna heat up ?
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 04:51 PM
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With a tank of 40-45* water , it's good enough trust me
and btw a 30 sec run?? Let's be more realistic
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 04:52 PM
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Hulk
With a tank of 40-45* water , it's good enough trust me
and btw a 30 sec run?? Let's be more realistic
wot on way down from tn to FL last time i had multiple 70-130mph burst about 10 times in a row with about 2 sec of recovery time in between each blast playing with a turbo'd 350Z... doubt the KC off with no backup cooling would of kept IATs in check..

and 40-45* water in 90f weather? lol.... logs please or it didnt happen... you do have logs dont you? or are you just talking nonsense

the op is in norcal= way colder than FL and his crusing iats are 52- 62 and the other guy from AL crusing IATs are 50-70... so are you in the special artic part of miami where you are getting the 40-45 iat unless you have a refridgerated trunk tank... who's making those refrigerated trunk tanks now?

Last edited by gaspam; Apr 15, 2013 at 05:07 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:10 PM
  #38  
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lol... I have done multiple runs and like I said before you must find the best way to setup and tweak the KC, every car is diff even if they are the same platform, talking non sense..ok..

Do you have the KC? I do and have never had a problem with iats
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:17 PM
  #39  
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Btw you realize water temp in the tank and iats are two diff things
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:17 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Hulk
lol... I have done multiple runs and like I said before you must find the best way to setup and tweak the KC, every car is diff even if they are the same platform, talking non sense..ok..

Do you have the KC? I do and have never had a problem with iats
logs please
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:20 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Hulk
Btw you realize water temp in the tank and iats are two diff things
yeah i know

explain to me how water stays 40f in a tank, without stopping and adding ice every 5 minutes, when driving around with 70f iats and in the 120f - 130f range when on it hard?
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:21 PM
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Can't post those as the only ones I could post are from my aem boost and afr gauge however my scangauge plugged into my obd2 with only iats selected doesn't lie

I have several members that have been in my car and after numerous wot runs we opened the hood and the water is ice cold
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:23 PM
  #43  
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sure, it will recover quickly if you stop going WOT... thats my point
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:27 PM
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What?? I actually stopped about 10 sec later and the water was cold! The KC is extremely fast at making the water cold

There's no way to cool the water with ambient temps better than the KC that is why the HE routed into or with the KC is a horrible idea, been there done that, like I said I tried every way to find the best way for my car

Actually even the manufacturer of the KC highly recommends against it as well
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:35 PM
  #45  
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How in the hell can ur tank water stay that cold ??? It's 92 degrees today (tampa FL) and I have a 5 gallon trunk tank with split cooling, EC heat exchanger and after a 15 mile trip of normal driving my coolant feels like warm Bath water
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:40 PM
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You said it right there! You have a HE , so you have the 92* temps cooling your water while I have an ac compressor that is cooling the water and I have almost a 3 gall tank
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:45 PM
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Can u Elaborate ? I followed the route that many of the guys running 10's ran. Trunk tank to front pump to inter cooler to heat exchanger back to trunk ? I thought the HE was to help with heat not make things hotter
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:47 PM
  #48  
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The HE can only cool to ambient temps
At the track you have the benefit of the tank so you can add ice and get those iats below ambient but you usually gotta empty it every run or second run
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:51 PM
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Yes that is true flush out the hot outta the system and replaced with ice cold
Ether way I know the trunk tank has benefited greatly, highest iats I seen were about 120 and that was when it was like 87 degrees and it was a 60-120 pull. Would hate to iats with out split cooling and trunk tank
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:54 PM
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Try running straight distilled water it might bring it down just a bit more
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