HELP! Leaking coolant into engine, one cylinder down, no shop here knows anything!
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From: Finland
Fast
HELP! Leaking coolant into engine, one cylinder down, no shop here knows anything!
I was recommended to post this in the E-forums since there seems to be lot more modding going on and ppl may have had similar issues.
Simply put:
- HUGE white smoke when starting after a while. Sometimes from all four, sometimes from one side more then others. Wierd smell, coolant no doubt.
- Leaks coolant into the engine, 3 litres down in the last 2000km or so and still keeps eating it. NO external leaks. Nothing found.
- One cylinder not working in low'ish revs and when starting below optimum temp. Slow speeds "stutter" and jumpy
- HUGE fuel-comsumption, around 35L / 100KM average. Long highways, then into town, going to work.
- Feels down on power, barely get a wheelspin with ESP off on full throttle takeoff, stock SL55 my friend has would destroy its tires
- Loud noise like some generator/pumps running when i open up the door-locks in the morning, goes away in 5-10 sec
- Something like alternator belt squeels when running on idle, mostly after start and below opt. temp. All belts look fine
ORIGINAL TOPIC AT CLS-FORUM HERE ON MBFORUMS:
https://mbworld.org/forums/w219/4964...-anything.html
Simply put:
- HUGE white smoke when starting after a while. Sometimes from all four, sometimes from one side more then others. Wierd smell, coolant no doubt.
- Leaks coolant into the engine, 3 litres down in the last 2000km or so and still keeps eating it. NO external leaks. Nothing found.
- One cylinder not working in low'ish revs and when starting below optimum temp. Slow speeds "stutter" and jumpy
- HUGE fuel-comsumption, around 35L / 100KM average. Long highways, then into town, going to work.
- Feels down on power, barely get a wheelspin with ESP off on full throttle takeoff, stock SL55 my friend has would destroy its tires
- Loud noise like some generator/pumps running when i open up the door-locks in the morning, goes away in 5-10 sec
- Something like alternator belt squeels when running on idle, mostly after start and below opt. temp. All belts look fine
ORIGINAL TOPIC AT CLS-FORUM HERE ON MBFORUMS:
https://mbworld.org/forums/w219/4964...-anything.html
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From: Northern Va
Dirt Scooters
Sounds like you could have a bad head gaskets but seems like there's more going on. Need to do a compression test first then check the coolant for combustion contamination to see if the head gasket is bad (99.999% sure it is).
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From: Finland
Fast
They just swapped the oil on the engine AND gearbox... Much smoother now then before, doubt the new one has nything on it yet. Il put some miles on it and check it out.
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From: chicago
2005 E55 AMG
Well if you have low compression on one of the cylinders than here are most couses
1-bad head gasket
2- stack or burned valve
3- bad piston rings
4- loose spark plugs
Other than a loose SP the head has to come off, if its the rings- whole engine
1-bad head gasket
2- stack or burned valve
3- bad piston rings
4- loose spark plugs
Other than a loose SP the head has to come off, if its the rings- whole engine
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Thread Starter
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From: Finland
Fast
Pressure-test on the coolant-system, all OK. I was also told if it were the intercooler, it may leak the coolant in any or all cylinders. So far only ONE cylinder has been down so it kinda says the intercooler sounds OK.
Im taking the car to the shop willing to work on it, they said they would take the fault-codes, send them over to a friend of theirs in the main-importer who is gonna send em over to AMG-factory...
Something tells me the track-day season opening will be missing one car... Still scared of driving it and sweet jeebus it eats fuel like nuts.
Suppose it were the gasket - how long will it take to find if out if its busted or not and how expensive job is it?
Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 140
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From: chicago
2005 E55 AMG
What codes are showing up?
Also for price, you need to find out book time to replace the gasket(dealer might tell you) than multiply by whatever rate the shop charges. Don't forget you'll pay for oil and coolent and other gasket that will have to changed in the process. You should change both sides just to be safe.
Also for price, you need to find out book time to replace the gasket(dealer might tell you) than multiply by whatever rate the shop charges. Don't forget you'll pay for oil and coolent and other gasket that will have to changed in the process. You should change both sides just to be safe.
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Texas
2003 CL55
Pull spark plugs and see if you have coolant in any of the holes and do a leakdown test on each cylinder. If the engine detonated, you may have a hole through the wall of the cylinder, leading into the water jacket.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
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From: Florida-Germany-New York
2004 E55,1969 300SEL6.3,2011 ML350 BlueTec Diesel,2005 ML400 CDI
Regardless of the problem (which most likely is serious), you should simply get the cylinder heads off as soon as possible and determine exactly what has failed.
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From: Finland
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Sadly i need to wait almost a week to know... Kinda ironic, just reads in the local paper "car repair-shops going bust" etc and even the ones going bust wont touch this.
The one shop with the cohones has an epic que. And no, they really dont have time to plug it in, run the codes, print them and say bye bye.
Hmm, i think they did that, came all clean... Would that show the broken casket? Atleast i remember them checking the plugs, they were fine.
They've done all the "little things" and since maybe one of their biggest clients is paying the bills, they may not wanna pull the whole engine apart since even they dont know how long will it take.
Can i be looking at a busted engine-block here!? That could cost like more then the new A-class... * gulp *
They said they will send the codes to the "expert" (or someone who thinks hes an expert) in the main-importer, who will then em over to AMG...
If you start seein mushroom-clouds in the distance, dont worry, its my car going kaboomski, not the Koreans. I need to move out of this backwater dump of a country >_<
The one shop with the cohones has an epic que. And no, they really dont have time to plug it in, run the codes, print them and say bye bye.
They've done all the "little things" and since maybe one of their biggest clients is paying the bills, they may not wanna pull the whole engine apart since even they dont know how long will it take.
Can i be looking at a busted engine-block here!? That could cost like more then the new A-class... * gulp *
If you start seein mushroom-clouds in the distance, dont worry, its my car going kaboomski, not the Koreans. I need to move out of this backwater dump of a country >_<
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CLK63 Black Series
You really shouldn't be driving a car that's dumping significant white smoke... you can hydrolock your engine and cause some serious damage. A head gasket is a lot cheaper than a new motor. Get it sorted ASAP.
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Theres shops willing to read the codes but the only shop whos seemingly able to contact AMG directly has the forementioned massive que, plus they have best repairmen in town as mercs go.
Im 99% sure the seller will not pay for me taking the car to the main-importer, only ppl who can afford that are ppl who buy these brand new, thats 250k€ and i aint one of those ppl
i had saving for years looking for good one.
I still kinda considor myself lucky to catch this deal, there were 3-4 ppl besides me and i lived 5min drive away. Cars like this dont "live long" because their price drops so fast. Basicly the insurance pays you more then the dealer and looking at insurance-records a lot of reindeers live this far south, who knows where one pops on the road and you ram the car into a tree to dodge the critter... That or who ever buys one of these sells it to his friend or drives it 500k miles so these dont pop up on the open markets. Theres twenty registered in the entire country.
Rarity is also the reason these are hard fix, no-one has seen one, let alone fixed one. S600 my friends dad has is also suffering from same issue.
EDIT: too much text, sorry: small point, the white smoke comes out when starting cold, once it heats up even little, the smoke goes away. The longer it stays without being started, the more it smokes. Basicly, its like its leaking the coolant overnight and not when running.
Im 99% sure the seller will not pay for me taking the car to the main-importer, only ppl who can afford that are ppl who buy these brand new, thats 250k€ and i aint one of those ppl
i had saving for years looking for good one.I still kinda considor myself lucky to catch this deal, there were 3-4 ppl besides me and i lived 5min drive away. Cars like this dont "live long" because their price drops so fast. Basicly the insurance pays you more then the dealer and looking at insurance-records a lot of reindeers live this far south, who knows where one pops on the road and you ram the car into a tree to dodge the critter... That or who ever buys one of these sells it to his friend or drives it 500k miles so these dont pop up on the open markets. Theres twenty registered in the entire country.
Rarity is also the reason these are hard fix, no-one has seen one, let alone fixed one. S600 my friends dad has is also suffering from same issue.
EDIT: too much text, sorry: small point, the white smoke comes out when starting cold, once it heats up even little, the smoke goes away. The longer it stays without being started, the more it smokes. Basicly, its like its leaking the coolant overnight and not when running.
Last edited by peelo; Apr 24, 2013 at 02:15 PM.
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From: Finland
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Thats also the thing, there were not that many fault-codes. One about coolant level, other about the one cylinder having "ignition pauses/fails" or something.
They swapped some part between cylinder number six and eight to see if was that, cant remember the part, something to do with ignition. I'd imagine it wasnt that part causing the ignition fail, it also somewhat isolates the problem to that particular cylinder, most likely its the coolant leaking there. Would explain the smell and the white smoke.
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NEW SYMPTOM!
The front bumper was cracked so it was fixed, soon after it started to turn "blue'ish" right from where it was fixed, i imagined it was the epoxy-fumes coming thru and eating the frest paint... So, i took it back and they fixed the paint.
Just noticed the ENTIRE bumper lower part in the center was covered in faint blue'ish "stuff" that and i could scrape it off with my finger. I cleaned it all off and none remain now. This was just TWO DAYS from picking up the car from the paint-fixing, there were none of the blue'ish stuff there then.
Sooooo, the color matches the coolant, but its not aplied "in drops" more like a very small high-pressure spray or ricochet off something. But where?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Theres a Dyno-tuner nearby and they said they could strap the car in and see how much it pumps out.
Its got 140k KM (~90'ish miles) on her but if theres noticably less power, something is wrong. Considoring its totaly stock, how much should i be looking at? BHP / Torque
Or should i pospone this till they've pulled the gasket out and see if its busted? Can a Dyno-run damage something?
The front bumper was cracked so it was fixed, soon after it started to turn "blue'ish" right from where it was fixed, i imagined it was the epoxy-fumes coming thru and eating the frest paint... So, i took it back and they fixed the paint.
Just noticed the ENTIRE bumper lower part in the center was covered in faint blue'ish "stuff" that and i could scrape it off with my finger. I cleaned it all off and none remain now. This was just TWO DAYS from picking up the car from the paint-fixing, there were none of the blue'ish stuff there then.
Sooooo, the color matches the coolant, but its not aplied "in drops" more like a very small high-pressure spray or ricochet off something. But where?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Theres a Dyno-tuner nearby and they said they could strap the car in and see how much it pumps out.
Its got 140k KM (~90'ish miles) on her but if theres noticably less power, something is wrong. Considoring its totaly stock, how much should i be looking at? BHP / Torque
Or should i pospone this till they've pulled the gasket out and see if its busted? Can a Dyno-run damage something?
