Problems with Renntech V3 install..
05-29-2013, 03:25 AM
#1
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Problems with Renntech V3 install..
So I decided to install my ELM myself, the instruction were very straight forward.. things seemed to be going fine.. finished the install.. attempted to test the module. attached the pass through device provided by renntech, the air ride malfunction indicator appeared on the console, went through made sure everything was installed correctly, everything seemed to be placed correctly. I wasn't able to figure out what the issue was so i removed the module and returned everything back to factory, the air ride malfunction indicator is still on and i am now unable to use any of the air ride functions. is this because of the fault in the system or did i somehow mess something up during the install? if i clear the code will the system return to its normal function? 
05-29-2013, 08:44 AM
#2
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Sounds like a crossed wire or something like that.
I did a v2 install yesterday and noticed that there was an error in the instructions provided. They called out for the installation of a blue wire (twice) from the new harness into the factory plug.... But there is only ONE blue wire. It's possible you got caught by a similar issue and now the sensor wires are cross-connected?
-G
I did a v2 install yesterday and noticed that there was an error in the instructions provided. They called out for the installation of a blue wire (twice) from the new harness into the factory plug.... But there is only ONE blue wire. It's possible you got caught by a similar issue and now the sensor wires are cross-connected?
-G
05-29-2013, 11:53 AM
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Something else I just thought of....
For the E55 at least there are two types of Airmatic. The 3-wire and 4-wire sensor systems. The schematics are different for each and it's possible to wire incorrectly by not confirming which type you have. Given that you have an E63, you are probably a 4-wire system.
The other thing that might help (based on the v2 module which might be different) is to take the cover off the module and look at the flashing LEDs to confirm that they are operating like the manual says. Correct operation is 3 blinking LEDs (out of 4), and when you change the function switch inside the module there are different LED behaviors. It might be good to scroll through all of those to confirm that they blink the way the manual indicates (a good sign that you are wired properly). If they don't match, you probably should go back and trace each wire to the socket number and see if you missed something.
BTW -> For me the "issue" was Step 11 which called out a BLUE wire for position 34 on the large connector block. This wire is actually supposed to be BROWN. Step 15 is where you actually use a BLUE wire.... if you'd followed the instructions exactly, you would find that there wasn't a blue wire left in the harness once you got to Step 15... !!! That's what happened to me yesterday.
Good Luck.
-G
For the E55 at least there are two types of Airmatic. The 3-wire and 4-wire sensor systems. The schematics are different for each and it's possible to wire incorrectly by not confirming which type you have. Given that you have an E63, you are probably a 4-wire system.
The other thing that might help (based on the v2 module which might be different) is to take the cover off the module and look at the flashing LEDs to confirm that they are operating like the manual says. Correct operation is 3 blinking LEDs (out of 4), and when you change the function switch inside the module there are different LED behaviors. It might be good to scroll through all of those to confirm that they blink the way the manual indicates (a good sign that you are wired properly). If they don't match, you probably should go back and trace each wire to the socket number and see if you missed something.
BTW -> For me the "issue" was Step 11 which called out a BLUE wire for position 34 on the large connector block. This wire is actually supposed to be BROWN. Step 15 is where you actually use a BLUE wire.... if you'd followed the instructions exactly, you would find that there wasn't a blue wire left in the harness once you got to Step 15... !!! That's what happened to me yesterday.
Good Luck.
-G
05-29-2013, 12:15 PM
#4
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Thanks for the help G, initially I thought I went by the wrong set of instructions. You are correct about the the 3 and 4 wire sets of instructions I used the correct steps (per the manual)
But ably the LED, the module I have is solid black, I don't see any LEDs of any kind on the pass through or the module itself. Nor was I provided with instructions test the install any other way. When you originally completed the install with the crossed wires, what errors with the car did you experience with the car?
How did you discover the error in the instructions? Did you contact Renntech? I went ahead and removed the module all together, I still have the "malfunction" message and my sport 1and 2 along with the "auto lift" are not working...
But ably the LED, the module I have is solid black, I don't see any LEDs of any kind on the pass through or the module itself. Nor was I provided with instructions test the install any other way. When you originally completed the install with the crossed wires, what errors with the car did you experience with the car?
How did you discover the error in the instructions? Did you contact Renntech? I went ahead and removed the module all together, I still have the "malfunction" message and my sport 1and 2 along with the "auto lift" are not working...
05-29-2013, 12:24 PM
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The V3 module sounds different from the V2. Mine is a bulky box with 5 screws on the cover that you remove to view the PCB inside and the LEDs and ride height switches...
The mistake in the instructions was discovered almost immediately....basically, once I got to Step 15 I realized that I'd already used the blue wire in a previous step. I went back to look at the schematic more closely and that's when I figured out that the diagram in Step 11 was labeled incorrectly.
The numbers molded into the connectors are really hard to read, so it can be easy to make a mistake or accidentally drop the wire into an adjacent open socket instead. Fortunately, there are only about 8 wires that you need to go back and study, but I have a feeling you will find something amiss once you go through it methodically and systematically.
-G
The mistake in the instructions was discovered almost immediately....basically, once I got to Step 15 I realized that I'd already used the blue wire in a previous step. I went back to look at the schematic more closely and that's when I figured out that the diagram in Step 11 was labeled incorrectly.
The numbers molded into the connectors are really hard to read, so it can be easy to make a mistake or accidentally drop the wire into an adjacent open socket instead. Fortunately, there are only about 8 wires that you need to go back and study, but I have a feeling you will find something amiss once you go through it methodically and systematically.
-G
Thanks for the help G, initially I thought I went by the wrong set of instructions. You are correct about the the 3 and 4 wire sets of instructions I used the correct steps (per the manual)
But ably the LED, the module I have is solid black, I don't see any LEDs of any kind on the pass through or the module itself. Nor was I provided with instructions test the install any other way. When you originally completed the install with the crossed wires, what errors with the car did you experience with the car?
How did you discover the error in the instructions? Did you contact Renntech? I went ahead and removed the module all together, I still have the "malfunction" message and my sport 1and 2 along with the "auto lift" are not working...
But ably the LED, the module I have is solid black, I don't see any LEDs of any kind on the pass through or the module itself. Nor was I provided with instructions test the install any other way. When you originally completed the install with the crossed wires, what errors with the car did you experience with the car?
How did you discover the error in the instructions? Did you contact Renntech? I went ahead and removed the module all together, I still have the "malfunction" message and my sport 1and 2 along with the "auto lift" are not working...
05-29-2013, 12:57 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
I see well ****, if that's how I'm suppose to check the LEDs that information is no where to be found in my set of instructions..I assume you have the same 25 page manual...
Anyway, at this point all I care about is figuring out why my air ride options aren't working... You would happen to know if the error/message in they system has anything to do with my air ride options not work would you? Some type of "limp mode" for lack of a better word...
Anyway, at this point all I care about is figuring out why my air ride options aren't working... You would happen to know if the error/message in they system has anything to do with my air ride options not work would you? Some type of "limp mode" for lack of a better word...
The V3 module sounds different from the V2. Mine is a bulky box with 5 screws on the cover that you remove to view the PCB inside and the LEDs and ride height switches...
The mistake in the instructions was discovered almost immediately....basically, once I got to Step 15 I realized that I'd already used the blue wire in a previous step. I went back to look at the schematic more closely and that's when I figured out that the diagram in Step 11 was labeled incorrectly.
The numbers molded into the connectors are really hard to read, so it can be easy to make a mistake or accidentally drop the wire into an adjacent open socket instead. Fortunately, there are only about 8 wires that you need to go back and study, but I have a feeling you will find something amiss once you go through it methodically and systematically.
-G
The mistake in the instructions was discovered almost immediately....basically, once I got to Step 15 I realized that I'd already used the blue wire in a previous step. I went back to look at the schematic more closely and that's when I figured out that the diagram in Step 11 was labeled incorrectly.
The numbers molded into the connectors are really hard to read, so it can be easy to make a mistake or accidentally drop the wire into an adjacent open socket instead. Fortunately, there are only about 8 wires that you need to go back and study, but I have a feeling you will find something amiss once you go through it methodically and systematically.
-G
05-29-2013, 01:27 PM
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I'm not sure if you have the same manual or not. On page 23 of mine, there is a photo of the inside of the V2 module for reference.... my guess is that your V3 module doesn't look anything like that?
My installation started on Page 9 (4-wire installation)
Here is how my installation went step-by-step:
1. Remove the Yellow/Blk Stripe wire from the small factory connector (Pin 21)
.....Insert into Socket #6 on new small 8-pin connector
.....Insert White wire from new harness into factory connector (Pin 21)
2. Remove the Brown/Blue Stripe wire from the small factory connector (Pin 25)
.....Insert into Socket #2 on the new small 8-pin connector
.....Insert Yellow wire from the new harness into factory connector (Pin 25)
3. Remove the Brown/Blue Stripe wire from the LARGE factory connector (Pin 34)
.....Insert into Socket # 1 on the new small 8-pin connector
.....Insert Brown wire from the new harness into factory connector (Pin 34)
(This was the step that was mislabeled in the installation manual)
4. Remove the Brown/Red Stripe wire from the LARGE factory connector (Pin 36)
.....Insert into Socket #3 (8-pin connector, as before)
.....Insert BLUE wire from new harness into the factory connector (Pin 36)
5. Remove the Green/Brown Stripe wire from the LARGE factory connector (Pin 38)
.....Insert into Socket #7
.....Install Grey wire from new harness into the factory connector (Pin 38)
6. Remove the Black/Green Stripe from the LARGE factory connector (Pin 40)
..... Insert into Socket #5
.....Insert Green wire from new harness into factory connector (Pin 40)
At this point, you are done with all the wires that involve the large and small factory connectors. The only thing left are the two wires in the CAN connector (Green /White Stripe and Green), and the final two wires from the new harness (Green and Orange).
After those, the only thing left is to tap the power and ground with the supplied T-taps, and you should be out of loose wires. Everything should be accounted for.
-G
My installation started on Page 9 (4-wire installation)
Here is how my installation went step-by-step:
1. Remove the Yellow/Blk Stripe wire from the small factory connector (Pin 21)
.....Insert into Socket #6 on new small 8-pin connector
.....Insert White wire from new harness into factory connector (Pin 21)
2. Remove the Brown/Blue Stripe wire from the small factory connector (Pin 25)
.....Insert into Socket #2 on the new small 8-pin connector
.....Insert Yellow wire from the new harness into factory connector (Pin 25)
3. Remove the Brown/Blue Stripe wire from the LARGE factory connector (Pin 34)
.....Insert into Socket # 1 on the new small 8-pin connector
.....Insert Brown wire from the new harness into factory connector (Pin 34)
(This was the step that was mislabeled in the installation manual)
4. Remove the Brown/Red Stripe wire from the LARGE factory connector (Pin 36)
.....Insert into Socket #3 (8-pin connector, as before)
.....Insert BLUE wire from new harness into the factory connector (Pin 36)
5. Remove the Green/Brown Stripe wire from the LARGE factory connector (Pin 38)
.....Insert into Socket #7
.....Install Grey wire from new harness into the factory connector (Pin 38)
6. Remove the Black/Green Stripe from the LARGE factory connector (Pin 40)
..... Insert into Socket #5
.....Insert Green wire from new harness into factory connector (Pin 40)
At this point, you are done with all the wires that involve the large and small factory connectors. The only thing left are the two wires in the CAN connector (Green /White Stripe and Green), and the final two wires from the new harness (Green and Orange).
After those, the only thing left is to tap the power and ground with the supplied T-taps, and you should be out of loose wires. Everything should be accounted for.
-G
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05-29-2013, 01:46 PM
#8
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I don't have anything on manual about the module its self just wiring and that's it. Oh and a few steps showing how to make adjuatments to the ride height with the tablet.
05-29-2013, 02:18 PM
#9
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I had the same problem you have to find out how if it is 3 or 4 wire because I installed mine with Alberts help.
Something else I just thought of....
For the E55 at least there are two types of Airmatic. The 3-wire and 4-wire sensor systems. The schematics are different for each and it's possible to wire incorrectly by not confirming which type you have. Given that you have an E63, you are probably a 4-wire system.
The other thing that might help (based on the v2 module which might be different) is to take the cover off the module and look at the flashing LEDs to confirm that they are operating like the manual says. Correct operation is 3 blinking LEDs (out of 4), and when you change the function switch inside the module there are different LED behaviors. It might be good to scroll through all of those to confirm that they blink the way the manual indicates (a good sign that you are wired properly). If they don't match, you probably should go back and trace each wire to the socket number and see if you missed something.
BTW -> For me the "issue" was Step 11 which called out a BLUE wire for position 34 on the large connector block. This wire is actually supposed to be BROWN. Step 15 is where you actually use a BLUE wire.... if you'd followed the instructions exactly, you would find that there wasn't a blue wire left in the harness once you got to Step 15... !!! That's what happened to me yesterday.
Good Luck.
-G
For the E55 at least there are two types of Airmatic. The 3-wire and 4-wire sensor systems. The schematics are different for each and it's possible to wire incorrectly by not confirming which type you have. Given that you have an E63, you are probably a 4-wire system.
The other thing that might help (based on the v2 module which might be different) is to take the cover off the module and look at the flashing LEDs to confirm that they are operating like the manual says. Correct operation is 3 blinking LEDs (out of 4), and when you change the function switch inside the module there are different LED behaviors. It might be good to scroll through all of those to confirm that they blink the way the manual indicates (a good sign that you are wired properly). If they don't match, you probably should go back and trace each wire to the socket number and see if you missed something.
BTW -> For me the "issue" was Step 11 which called out a BLUE wire for position 34 on the large connector block. This wire is actually supposed to be BROWN. Step 15 is where you actually use a BLUE wire.... if you'd followed the instructions exactly, you would find that there wasn't a blue wire left in the harness once you got to Step 15... !!! That's what happened to me yesterday.
Good Luck.
-G
05-29-2013, 04:10 PM
#10
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05-31-2013, 12:14 AM
#11
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I'm not sure if you have the same manual or not. On page 23 of mine, there is a photo of the inside of the V2 module for reference.... my guess is that your V3 module doesn't look anything like that?
My installation started on Page 9 (4-wire installation)
Here is how my installation went step-by-step:
1. Remove the Yellow/Blk Stripe wire from the small factory connector (Pin 21)
.....Insert into Socket #6 on new small 8-pin connector
.....Insert White wire from new harness into factory connector (Pin 21)
2. Remove the Brown/Blue Stripe wire from the small factory connector (Pin 25)
.....Insert into Socket #2 on the new small 8-pin connector
.....Insert Yellow wire from the new harness into factory connector (Pin 25)
3. Remove the Brown/Blue Stripe wire from the LARGE factory connector (Pin 34)
.....Insert into Socket # 1 on the new small 8-pin connector
.....Insert Brown wire from the new harness into factory connector (Pin 34)
(This was the step that was mislabeled in the installation manual)
4. Remove the Brown/Red Stripe wire from the LARGE factory connector (Pin 36)
.....Insert into Socket #3 (8-pin connector, as before)
.....Insert BLUE wire from new harness into the factory connector (Pin 36)
5. Remove the Green/Brown Stripe wire from the LARGE factory connector (Pin 38)
.....Insert into Socket #7
.....Install Grey wire from new harness into the factory connector (Pin 38)
6. Remove the Black/Green Stripe from the LARGE factory connector (Pin 40)
..... Insert into Socket #5
.....Insert Green wire from new harness into factory connector (Pin 40)
At this point, you are done with all the wires that involve the large and small factory connectors. The only thing left are the two wires in the CAN connector (Green /White Stripe and Green), and the final two wires from the new harness (Green and Orange).
After those, the only thing left is to tap the power and ground with the supplied T-taps, and you should be out of loose wires. Everything should be accounted for.
-G
My installation started on Page 9 (4-wire installation)
Here is how my installation went step-by-step:
1. Remove the Yellow/Blk Stripe wire from the small factory connector (Pin 21)
.....Insert into Socket #6 on new small 8-pin connector
.....Insert White wire from new harness into factory connector (Pin 21)
2. Remove the Brown/Blue Stripe wire from the small factory connector (Pin 25)
.....Insert into Socket #2 on the new small 8-pin connector
.....Insert Yellow wire from the new harness into factory connector (Pin 25)
3. Remove the Brown/Blue Stripe wire from the LARGE factory connector (Pin 34)
.....Insert into Socket # 1 on the new small 8-pin connector
.....Insert Brown wire from the new harness into factory connector (Pin 34)
(This was the step that was mislabeled in the installation manual)
4. Remove the Brown/Red Stripe wire from the LARGE factory connector (Pin 36)
.....Insert into Socket #3 (8-pin connector, as before)
.....Insert BLUE wire from new harness into the factory connector (Pin 36)
5. Remove the Green/Brown Stripe wire from the LARGE factory connector (Pin 38)
.....Insert into Socket #7
.....Install Grey wire from new harness into the factory connector (Pin 38)
6. Remove the Black/Green Stripe from the LARGE factory connector (Pin 40)
..... Insert into Socket #5
.....Insert Green wire from new harness into factory connector (Pin 40)
At this point, you are done with all the wires that involve the large and small factory connectors. The only thing left are the two wires in the CAN connector (Green /White Stripe and Green), and the final two wires from the new harness (Green and Orange).
After those, the only thing left is to tap the power and ground with the supplied T-taps, and you should be out of loose wires. Everything should be accounted for.
-G
05-31-2013, 07:37 AM
#13
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05-31-2013, 07:48 AM
#14
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I didn't have the correct Hazet tool but I had good luck using a small jewlers screwdriver (like the kind you use to fix sunglasses).
Those connectors are a bit tricky. I gently pulled the wire as I pushed down on the barb to release it from the locked position. When they release, they only move a few millimeters and then stop against another lip. You need to push down on it a second time to release it completely from the socket.
It's definitely a "feel" thing.... If you aren't pulling gently on the wire the connector won't move when you release the barb. If you pull too hard on the wire, it will be almost impossible to get the barb to release. My first one took me about 5 minutes to figure out, after that I got the hang of it and could pull them in just a few seconds. Just be patient... If you start yanking on the wires or pushing too hard on the barbs you are bound to bugger things up and it will just get harder to release the wires.
-G
Those connectors are a bit tricky. I gently pulled the wire as I pushed down on the barb to release it from the locked position. When they release, they only move a few millimeters and then stop against another lip. You need to push down on it a second time to release it completely from the socket.
It's definitely a "feel" thing.... If you aren't pulling gently on the wire the connector won't move when you release the barb. If you pull too hard on the wire, it will be almost impossible to get the barb to release. My first one took me about 5 minutes to figure out, after that I got the hang of it and could pull them in just a few seconds. Just be patient... If you start yanking on the wires or pushing too hard on the barbs you are bound to bugger things up and it will just get harder to release the wires.
-G
05-31-2013, 08:01 AM
#15
Super Member
Thread Starter
I didn't have the correct Hazet tool but I had good luck using a small jewlers screwdriver (like the kind you use to fix sunglasses).
Those connectors are a bit tricky. I gently pulled the wire as I pushed down on the barb to release it from the locked position. When they release, they only move a few millimeters and then stop against another lip. You need to push down on it a second time to release it completely from the socket.
It's definitely a "feel" thing.... If you aren't pulling gently on the wire the connector won't move when you release the barb. If you pull too hard on the wire, it will be almost impossible to get the barb to release. My first one took me about 5 minutes to figure out, after that I got the hang of it and could pull them in just a few seconds. Just be patient... If you start yanking on the wires or pushing too hard on the barbs you are bound to bugger things up and it will just get harder to release the wires.
-G
Those connectors are a bit tricky. I gently pulled the wire as I pushed down on the barb to release it from the locked position. When they release, they only move a few millimeters and then stop against another lip. You need to push down on it a second time to release it completely from the socket.
It's definitely a "feel" thing.... If you aren't pulling gently on the wire the connector won't move when you release the barb. If you pull too hard on the wire, it will be almost impossible to get the barb to release. My first one took me about 5 minutes to figure out, after that I got the hang of it and could pull them in just a few seconds. Just be patient... If you start yanking on the wires or pushing too hard on the barbs you are bound to bugger things up and it will just get harder to release the wires.
-G
05-31-2013, 08:15 AM
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That happened to me once...
I think the best technique is to get the screwdriver down next to the wire as you are drawing the wire out from the second position towards the end of the connector. That gives you a chance to press down on the barbs before they get hung-up on the very edge of the connector.
A super thin (and super narrow) feeler gauge would help too. Basically you just need to create a smooth surface for the barb to slide against so it doesn't "hook" on anything as it comes out of the socket.
-G
I think the best technique is to get the screwdriver down next to the wire as you are drawing the wire out from the second position towards the end of the connector. That gives you a chance to press down on the barbs before they get hung-up on the very edge of the connector.
A super thin (and super narrow) feeler gauge would help too. Basically you just need to create a smooth surface for the barb to slide against so it doesn't "hook" on anything as it comes out of the socket.
-G
06-02-2013, 08:17 PM
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Good for you!
Post up your fender height measurements at the four corners when you get a chance.
I'm currently at 25.5" at all 4 corners and it seems "low but not too low" to me....
Interested to hear how you feel the ride quality is when you drive it lowered. Mine seems more harsh to me, but I might just be so used to the "floaty" feeling of Comfort mode that any change seems weird.
-G
Post up your fender height measurements at the four corners when you get a chance.
I'm currently at 25.5" at all 4 corners and it seems "low but not too low" to me....
Interested to hear how you feel the ride quality is when you drive it lowered. Mine seems more harsh to me, but I might just be so used to the "floaty" feeling of Comfort mode that any change seems weird.
-G
06-02-2013, 08:24 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
Will do, it does feel a little harsher.. But I drove my m3 with Kwv2 coilovers set to full stiff for close to 2 year.. So to me it isn't bad. I haven't had it on the freeway yet though.
What do you have your speed setting set to?
What do you have your speed setting set to?
06-02-2013, 09:15 PM
#20
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I don't think the V2 allows the speed setting to be changed (or disabled)???
This is the thing that drops the suspension at 68mph right? Ideally, I'd like to disable it completely if possible and set my ride height permanently. I am a little afraid of the suspension lowering itself another 10mm - 15mm at highway speeds.... That might be a bit TOO low and might end up rubbing or bottoming out.
-G
This is the thing that drops the suspension at 68mph right? Ideally, I'd like to disable it completely if possible and set my ride height permanently. I am a little afraid of the suspension lowering itself another 10mm - 15mm at highway speeds.... That might be a bit TOO low and might end up rubbing or bottoming out.
-G
06-02-2013, 09:19 PM
#21
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Thread Starter
I don't think the V2 allows the speed setting to be changed (or disabled)???
This is the thing that drops the suspension at 68mph right? Ideally, I'd like to disable it completely if possible and set my ride height permanently. I am a little afraid of the suspension lowering itself another 10mm - 15mm at highway speeds.... That might be a bit TOO low and might end up rubbing or bottoming out.
-G
This is the thing that drops the suspension at 68mph right? Ideally, I'd like to disable it completely if possible and set my ride height permanently. I am a little afraid of the suspension lowering itself another 10mm - 15mm at highway speeds.... That might be a bit TOO low and might end up rubbing or bottoming out.
-G
06-02-2013, 09:38 PM
#22
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My understanding is that the factory design drops the suspension 10 - 15mm at 68mph (amount of drop is determined by which suspension mode the car is in: Comfort drops 15mm, Sport1 & w drop by 10mm).... As the car slows down again and goes below 37mph, the car will rise up either 10mm or 15mm and return to the factory setting.
I think the ELMs are basically "tricking" the factory system into riding lower, but the underlying behaviors for the speed-dependent lowering (or raising) would still be intact and operational.
It seemed like my options for messing with the speed related lowering were all "greyed out" on my controller display, but I'll take another look at it to be sure.
-G
I think the ELMs are basically "tricking" the factory system into riding lower, but the underlying behaviors for the speed-dependent lowering (or raising) would still be intact and operational.
It seemed like my options for messing with the speed related lowering were all "greyed out" on my controller display, but I'll take another look at it to be sure.
-G
04-09-2014, 03:20 PM
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E500,CLK500K, E55
hey guys, im having a problem with my elm, something close to gregMB. For step 11, i traced the wire back to the pin of the connector and it wasnt the right pin number from the harness. Should i go with the manual and just insert the brown wire, because i think for mine, pin23 was green.
04-09-2014, 03:23 PM
#24
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hey guys, im having a problem with my elm, something close to gregMB. For step 11, i traced the wire back to the pin of the connector and it wasnt the right pin number from the harness. Should i go with the manual and just insert the brown wire, because i think for mine, pin23 was green.
04-09-2014, 03:37 PM
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E500,CLK500K, E55
actually, i went with my gut instinct and did just that. Traced the pin numbers and it turns on, leds blink, but it wont raise or lower, not even with the oem button. The remote doesnt seem to be doing anything at all. It just lowered my car and now doesnt go up
