JoeNobody

berti_00

not possible... seems soo but nope, gotta take that bad boy out all the way

JoeNobody

💪

PACougar

Two guys can pull the SC easily, no need for a hoist.

Roverron

Or one guy can I did it.
Drain coolant good.
When reinstalling make guild bolts it will save a ton of time.
Now I just need to work on getting the TB to seal better to the Y pipe.

PACougar

Guide bolts work great, and yes it can be done with one guy. It's just a lot easier with two.

GT-ER

One guy can do it, but my back is precious so I chose use my pregnant wife to help me the first time I did and a hoist the second time...lol.

MindBend

Put a little piece of plywood on the radiator shroud, etc. so you can kinda life it up onto there instead of one complete up-n-out. Makes likes a LOT easier.

Pregnant wife plans work great too. (so long as it doesn't interrupt kitchen duties.).

GT-ER

Gotta have priorities...lmao.

FlyByNight

Don't suppose there's a DIY guide / photo thread of replacing the snout somewhere... ? Searches aren't helping me much today. I have to put an old 80mm snout to house my 80mm TB on a stock E55 I just picked up. Worse still, it's in costa rica, so I won't have a big garage, hoist, etc. Just some hand tools I'm taking down on a plane. Already figured out the torx T27-T40. Help?

berti_00

Just look for a supercharger removal diy after that's out there is no need for snout diy there is 4 bolts in the back and comes right off

FlyByNight

Thanks... yes, I had found lots of descriptions... I was hoping I'd get lucky and there'd be pics / video, etc. Basically, a lot of the good threads are old and people have long since removed their hosted pics. if you find one with visual aids, I'd be grateful!

This is the most helpful written version I've found:

Hmm for TB mod from memory

1. remove 2 air inlet tubes from air box housings and radiator
2. remove airboxes and plastic T piece from TB (comes off as one piece)
3. remove surge tanks - carefully note which bolts go where
4. remove 2 start up relief valves in front of motor either side of SC snout
5. either drain coolant or prepare to bung up the I/C pipes and their hoses. I had cooant already drained from rad mod.
6. disconnect all hoses in front from S/C assembly.
7. remove SC belt and accesory belt (I didnt remove acc belt but its easier if you do)
8. disconnect I/C inlet and outlet pipes from hoses
9. disconnect I/C coolant pipes bracket (near tensioner wheel)
10. remove PCV hoses from TB
11. disconnect harness to all injectors
12. disconnect and remove fuel injector ring (I kept injectors attached to the piping and removed them from motor).
13. remove TB from TB housing (I did it here as it gave me more space to get to wiring harness / plugs).
14. disconnect all plugs and wires - the rear wire to b/fly valve is quite hidden and it does not come off at the housing but along the lead there is a plug. The rest are fairly obvious.
15. loosen and remove S/C - you will definitely need 2 people to lift this out if you dont have a lift.
16. Take off TB from S/C if you have not already done so
17. Loosen I/C from S/C housing - some bolts quite tough to get to and are obscured by the rubber hose connecting the coolant pipes to the I/C housing
18. remove intercooler - some rubber mallet on the side lossens up the gunk used to seal it up - make sure you got all bolts off before you grab the mallet!
19. remove TB adaptor housing
20. Fit new 80mm adaptor housing (with new gasket provided) - beware two of these bolts support the I/C housing - so dont put them back just yet.
21. Fit new 80mm TB to housing, using new gasket and marvel at the pretty bolts (which are also longer). BTW: I added some fat washers here so the T piece could clip onto it better.
22. attach I/C to S/C - reseal if you damaged the rubber seal when you removed the I/C .
23. remove all old gaskets from S/C housing and motor.
24. mock up some guide pins (plastic dowles in bolt holes should work well) in engine housing to accepts new gaskets and phenolics spacer.
25. replace S/C on motor - VERY carefully not to damage the face surfaces or shimmy the gaskets. Place over the guide pins - should save loads of time lining up gaskets help. Again marvel at the new pretty bolts victor supplies
26. remove guide pins and place bolts in their place - also smiling when doing so.
27. fit new T piece to air box rubber assembly - those clips are a real pain but you can get them back on with some force and pliers.

28. From here its basically replace in reverse order .... you can connect all wires etc with S/C in place - with a little effin about.

29. Fire it up ... may take a while for the fuel to feed through the injector ring so be patient.

30. Smile when she starts.

31. Grin allot when you drive her away....

berti_00

its really not a hard job, it does take time but its doable.. I'd suggest taking it off with another person as when you get to pulling the supercharger off your gonna need more than just your self, that thing weighs like thousand pounds lol well that's what it felt like. Anyways make sure you buy new gaskets for surge tanks and S/C too other than that take your time and its pretty straight forward. Me and my friend too his off, it wasn't bad. Plus at this point you do have the chance of changing your S/C oil as well, so kill two birds with one stone

Driftvs

How does it drive after a TB upgrade without adjusting the tune? Or does the tune need to be touched up to allow for the bigger TB?

FlyByNight

So, how long do you think someone like me to do this? Never done it, only have the guide above, I'm in central America, and parts aren't around the corner (I'm guessing the jet oil will be a little difficult to find for the SC... gaskets too)

There is a Mercedes-like dealer and I could probably have them do it... labor is cheaper down here.

thanks for all your help... Weds is the day! It's me or them, but it's getting done.

berti_00

One thing when you put it back together carefully do so without pinching the gasket... gotta make sure it's flat and not caught, this is when two people comes in handy