Lightweight beehive valve springs for your M113K Mercedes
#176
Member
Are there any alternatives to the ferrea K10062 locks, as I'm really struggling to get hold of some.
Also this may sound dumb, but are they sold individually, or 1 valve lock set = 2 pieces.
In other words do I need to order 24 or 48? I've ordered 24 so far and they are on back order 😭.
It's the last part of a the puzzle.
Or if anyone is selling some ☺️
Thanks
Also this may sound dumb, but are they sold individually, or 1 valve lock set = 2 pieces.
In other words do I need to order 24 or 48? I've ordered 24 so far and they are on back order 😭.
It's the last part of a the puzzle.
Or if anyone is selling some ☺️
Thanks
#179
Member
#183
Member
I've got a set of race IQ cams, but I'm currently speaking to Turbosport about making some custom cams with more lift. But I'm not sure how far we can go with these new springs so far I've gathered the flowing information, please correct me if it's wrong: coil bind @ .570 lift
Hydrulic lifter tip built into the other end of the roller rocker.
Rocker arm Ratio is 1.49 to 1
#184
MBWorld Fanatic!
At .550 you will be fine with some room. But....piston to valve clearance is your real concern. Not much room in there and you would have to fly cut to get a real healthy cam in there.
#185
Member
I was thinking about 500 lift and a tad more.duration that way should be ok with OEM piston setup.
What do you think ?
#186
You would get no where near .500" lift and have to modify about everything in the cylinder head. Rockers, clearance the camshaft bridge, retainers, springs, valve locks and cut valve reliefs, at least on the NA engines, with an aggressive lift/duration camshaft. The engines weren't made for building HP hence the boost for the big power 55. They were great engines those 113's, just not powerful engines on their own. Boost makes every engine better.
#187
MBWorld Fanatic!
Springs are in and not without some fighting here and there LOL
Problem is I noticed some slight scoring on some of the cam bearing journals so..... I can leave it and let it ride as I had seen some marks when engine was apart 2 years ago or, pull cams and polish them and have them PC-9 coated in Teflon coating like engine bearings or go with new cams.
This new cam company Cat Cams is not answering or returning calls so will give it a week before I decide.
The strange thing on the cam journals is the cam bridge's and cylinder head half bores are like factory new yet a steel counter part has marks in it ?? The marks are not bad but still there.
Anyone seen some scouring on journals before?
Problem is I noticed some slight scoring on some of the cam bearing journals so..... I can leave it and let it ride as I had seen some marks when engine was apart 2 years ago or, pull cams and polish them and have them PC-9 coated in Teflon coating like engine bearings or go with new cams.
This new cam company Cat Cams is not answering or returning calls so will give it a week before I decide.
The strange thing on the cam journals is the cam bridge's and cylinder head half bores are like factory new yet a steel counter part has marks in it ?? The marks are not bad but still there.
Anyone seen some scouring on journals before?
during my engine rebuild I found the street beast cams would spin freely while installed in the head, but that there was a very very slight “tightness” at one consistent spot of the cams rotation. I looked closely at how the cam would ride on the cylinder head and found a visible amount of deflection in the trueness of the camshaft. I decided to buy a dial indicator gauge to verify the cam was bent
I don’t have roller guides like a cam shop would have, so I set the cam on some jackstands and tested for a bend with the dial indicator. Sure enough the camshaft was bent. I have some trashed/spare 55 heads lying around from junkyard motors, etc. so I built a jig to more accurately verify the bend of the cam. I grinded out the 3 middle bearing surfaces so the middle surfaces, nor a warped bead could cause any bad readings in testing. This further solidified the test results that my left side cam was bent.
I decided to take out the right side cam I just finished installing. This right side cam spun freely but also had some of that light scoring on the bearing surfaces you mention. I used an unmodified spare cylinder head for this test but found this right side camshaft was also bent about half as much as the left side. The left cam had about 2mm measurable deviation at the worst point. The right had about 1mm
i mention this story about diagnosing the bent camshafts because I believe it’s the bend in the camshaft that creates the cam bearing surface wear, when strangely the softer aluminum heads and bearing bridges do not reflect the same degree of wear
I tested two unmodified camshafts from a 2003 s55 I bought with a rod knock/piston slap banging noise from severe abuse. I tested these to have some sort of idea of what could be considered “tolerable” bend within these cams. Though the motor was trashed, car was still able to started and driven (pitifully at that)
One of the unmodified cams did indeed have a very slight amount of bend to the cam per my testing. The other camshaft had no detectable bend at all. While the raceiq cams measured 1-2mm bend deviance, the stock cams were closer to .3mm deviance at worst
Monday I am going to start calling cam shops to see whether these cams are worth being repaired and straightened
Last edited by ctravis595; 02-27-2022 at 05:26 AM.
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#188
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#192
Yes. I got a set of used raceiq street beast cams, noticed some light-ish scoring on the cam’s bearing surfaces. I decided the desirability of the cams outweighed the concern of the scoring.
during my engine rebuild I found the street beast cams would spin freely while installed in the head, but that there was a very very slight “tightness” at one consistent spot of the cams rotation. I looked closely at how the cam would ride on the cylinder head and found a visible amount of deflection in the trueness of the camshaft. I decided to buy a dial indicator gauge to verify the cam was bent
I don’t have roller guides like a cam shop would have, so I set the cam on some jackstands and tested for a bend with the dial indicator. Sure enough the camshaft was bent. I have some trashed/spare 55 heads lying around from junkyard motors, etc. so I built a jig to more accurately verify the bend of the cam. I grinded out the 3 middle bearing surfaces so the middle surfaces, nor a warped bead could cause any bad readings in testing. This further solidified the test results that my left side cam was bent.
I decided to take out the right side cam I just finished installing. This right side cam spun freely but also had some of that light scoring on the bearing surfaces you mention. I used an unmodified spare cylinder head for this test but found this right side camshaft was also bent about half as much as the left side. The left cam had about 2mm measurable deviation at the worst point. The right had about 1mm
i mention this story about diagnosing the bent camshafts because I believe it’s the bend in the camshaft that creates the cam bearing surface wear, when strangely the softer aluminum heads and bearing bridges do not reflect the same degree of wear
I tested two unmodified camshafts from a 2003 s55 I bought with a rod knock/piston slap banging noise from severe abuse. I tested these to have some sort of idea of what could be considered “tolerable” bend within these cams. Though the motor was trashed, car was still able to started and driven (pitifully at that)
One of the unmodified cams did indeed have a very slight amount of bend to the cam per my testing. The other camshaft had no detectable bend at all. While the raceiq cams measured 1-2mm bend deviance, the stock cams were closer to .3mm deviance at worst
Monday I am going to start calling cam shops to see whether these cams are worth being repaired and straightened
during my engine rebuild I found the street beast cams would spin freely while installed in the head, but that there was a very very slight “tightness” at one consistent spot of the cams rotation. I looked closely at how the cam would ride on the cylinder head and found a visible amount of deflection in the trueness of the camshaft. I decided to buy a dial indicator gauge to verify the cam was bent
I don’t have roller guides like a cam shop would have, so I set the cam on some jackstands and tested for a bend with the dial indicator. Sure enough the camshaft was bent. I have some trashed/spare 55 heads lying around from junkyard motors, etc. so I built a jig to more accurately verify the bend of the cam. I grinded out the 3 middle bearing surfaces so the middle surfaces, nor a warped bead could cause any bad readings in testing. This further solidified the test results that my left side cam was bent.
I decided to take out the right side cam I just finished installing. This right side cam spun freely but also had some of that light scoring on the bearing surfaces you mention. I used an unmodified spare cylinder head for this test but found this right side camshaft was also bent about half as much as the left side. The left cam had about 2mm measurable deviation at the worst point. The right had about 1mm
i mention this story about diagnosing the bent camshafts because I believe it’s the bend in the camshaft that creates the cam bearing surface wear, when strangely the softer aluminum heads and bearing bridges do not reflect the same degree of wear
I tested two unmodified camshafts from a 2003 s55 I bought with a rod knock/piston slap banging noise from severe abuse. I tested these to have some sort of idea of what could be considered “tolerable” bend within these cams. Though the motor was trashed, car was still able to started and driven (pitifully at that)
One of the unmodified cams did indeed have a very slight amount of bend to the cam per my testing. The other camshaft had no detectable bend at all. While the raceiq cams measured 1-2mm bend deviance, the stock cams were closer to .3mm deviance at worst
Monday I am going to start calling cam shops to see whether these cams are worth being repaired and straightened
#195
Are there any alternatives to the ferrea K10062 locks, as I'm really struggling to get hold of some.
Also this may sound dumb, but are they sold individually, or 1 valve lock set = 2 pieces.
In other words do I need to order 24 or 48? I've ordered 24 so far and they are on back order 😭.
It's the last part of a the puzzle.
Or if anyone is selling some ☺️
Thanks
Also this may sound dumb, but are they sold individually, or 1 valve lock set = 2 pieces.
In other words do I need to order 24 or 48? I've ordered 24 so far and they are on back order 😭.
It's the last part of a the puzzle.
Or if anyone is selling some ☺️
Thanks