Push start button stopped working !
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,645
Likes: 13
From: tampa florida
19 f-150 limited (w/raptor engine) 06 e55,81SC Targa,08 CLK63 BLK,91 E34 M5
Keep in mind this guy was saying he wasn't even getting the cluster to come on. Its doubtful that the brake lamp switch is at fault here. In order for that to even come into effect, the car would at least need to turn on, so in this case the switch wouldn't even be a factor in preventing it from starting.
The easiest "try something" at this point would be the remote batteries. Check to see if there is a little red light flashing on your key when you try to lock/unlock. If there is, the remote batteries are fine. If its anything more than that, its better to take it to the dealer and have them process the fault. Rather than sitting here tossing countless amounts of money on parts that may or may not be the problem, then just coming right back in this thread to say: "Changed this part that everyone said, still doesn't work." Every car is different. Granted, it could be a common problem fix, or some off the wall CAN communication problem.
The easiest "try something" at this point would be the remote batteries. Check to see if there is a little red light flashing on your key when you try to lock/unlock. If there is, the remote batteries are fine. If its anything more than that, its better to take it to the dealer and have them process the fault. Rather than sitting here tossing countless amounts of money on parts that may or may not be the problem, then just coming right back in this thread to say: "Changed this part that everyone said, still doesn't work." Every car is different. Granted, it could be a common problem fix, or some off the wall CAN communication problem.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 1
From: Italy
cls 55 or FIAT Coupe T20v-6speed
for those interested in the Knob thing
.. more pics here
https://mbworld.org/forums/w219/5073...epair-mod.html
EDIT : the word KNOB causes the link to not work .. so try this
https://mbworld.org/forums/5723380-post1.html
CLS 219 section
.. more pics here
https://mbworld.org/forums/w219/5073...epair-mod.html
EDIT : the word KNOB causes the link to not work .. so try this
https://mbworld.org/forums/5723380-post1.html
CLS 219 section
Last edited by dyno; Jul 24, 2013 at 02:36 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 55
05 E55 AMG, E320 CDI, Turbo E46 M3,IS300 2JZGTE,VQ35 Turbo Maxima, Mercedes 300D
I am late to this thread .. but for future reference if you want to check the function of your start button do the following:
1. Press start button without foot on brake. The lights on the cluster should illuminate after pressing the button (once or twice), this is like turning the key to ACC.
a. If there is no response, then you likely have a bad switch.
b. If there is response, try pressing brake pedal, if the response is the same as without pressing the brake pedal and the car will not start, you likely have a bad brake pedal switch
2. If you suspect bad switch (no response at all), remove the knob. You will see two holes at the top of the metal part of the shifter. These are where the prongs in the shift knob go into. You can use a paper clip and short the two holes together using the clip. If the clip triggers start or ACC, then you have bad contact or switch. Check the prongs on the knob. If there is no response whatsoever you may need to hook up a DAS to see if the car can detect the key if none of these work.
1. Press start button without foot on brake. The lights on the cluster should illuminate after pressing the button (once or twice), this is like turning the key to ACC.
a. If there is no response, then you likely have a bad switch.
b. If there is response, try pressing brake pedal, if the response is the same as without pressing the brake pedal and the car will not start, you likely have a bad brake pedal switch
2. If you suspect bad switch (no response at all), remove the knob. You will see two holes at the top of the metal part of the shifter. These are where the prongs in the shift knob go into. You can use a paper clip and short the two holes together using the clip. If the clip triggers start or ACC, then you have bad contact or switch. Check the prongs on the knob. If there is no response whatsoever you may need to hook up a DAS to see if the car can detect the key if none of these work.
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
2004 E55 AMG
Hi there. I'm new to this forum and I've read your experiences with this start button issue. Unfortunately it seems that none of you found the solution to the problem.
Here is my case: My start button also suddenly stopped working. I did pull off the shifter boot and disassembled the button. I measured the switch when pushing it, and it works fine. I don't think the problem can be caused by the break pedal switch, since the instruments should light up when pushing the start button, without pressing the brake pedal or doing anything else. (it did when the button was working...)
Has anoyne out there found out what was wrong ??.
Best regards, Michael. Denmark.
Here is my case: My start button also suddenly stopped working. I did pull off the shifter boot and disassembled the button. I measured the switch when pushing it, and it works fine. I don't think the problem can be caused by the break pedal switch, since the instruments should light up when pushing the start button, without pressing the brake pedal or doing anything else. (it did when the button was working...)
Has anoyne out there found out what was wrong ??.
Best regards, Michael. Denmark.
I have intermittent problems -- if I let it set for a couple of days it fires right up ,, drive it around for a while and the button wont turn it off (I have to place the fob into the ignition),, then other times it starts and stops the way its supposed to -- then other times it doesn't work at all ? -- any thought on diagnostics for this ? -- batteries are new, door handle locks all work , brake light seems to be OK , and I cleaned the contacts on the pushbutton and put an ohm meter on it and seems work push on/off seem to work correctly --
-- it is close to Halloween so maybe its haunted
-- it is close to Halloween so maybe its haunted
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
2004 E55 AMG
Hi Hayseed.
I am pretty convinced that the pdf from SoCal55k will solve both yours and my problem. I will try this tomorrow. It is the same as this thread : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post6218416
Best regards, Michael. Denmark.
I am pretty convinced that the pdf from SoCal55k will solve both yours and my problem. I will try this tomorrow. It is the same as this thread : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post6218416
Best regards, Michael. Denmark.
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Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 76
Likes: 11
From: 33N117W
2006 E55 AMG, 65 Nova
Mine had the same issue and the cause was latte dubble pump grande, hold the frappe but with two scoops of free range marshmallows === spilled into the switch from the previous "shaky hands" owner. Cleaning was no help. Pulled the shifter knob and did the shorted pins trick. It started right up.
$200.00 new knob, boot and plate from the stealership all is well. I am keeping the broken wire sheet for future reference tho...
Thanks SoCal55!
$200.00 new knob, boot and plate from the stealership all is well. I am keeping the broken wire sheet for future reference tho...
Thanks SoCal55!
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
2004 E55 AMG
Yep.... Fixed !! As expected it was the tiny 2 wires from the shifter stick that was broken. I pulled the short end of the wires back through the hole and soldered a new flexible wire onto it. I used a wire from a pair of small headphones. These wires are very soft and perfect for this purpose. 
Best regards, Michael
Best regards, Michael
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
From: Oregon
2005 E320 CDI, 2011 ML350 4Matic
Keyless Go Start Button Fix
Hey I found the problem for the keyless go button on the shifter not working. You can take the knob off and check the switch with a meter. Found ours to be fine and saw a post about the wires at the bottom of the shift lever broken. That was it on ours. You can look down the center with a flashlight if you pop off the wood around the shifter and get it out of the way. The wires come out of the center of the shift lever (its hollow) and make a sharp turn. Shifting it back and forth eventually breaks them off. (See Pic9) It was kind of a ***** to fix because the center console had to come out and the wires are not very long to get in to solder back together. Anyway here some pics. The posts that I found to help me take out the center console didn’t show this screw that holds the back ash tray or vent that's on the back for the back seat passengers. Its big and beefy. Once you take out the front 2 screws for the box the back has metal clips that pop out. See pics for the metal clips I'm talking about. Then you can get that screw from inside back (pic5) to release the vent off the back. I don’t have photoshop so I can’t put the arrows on my pics like some high tech guys on here but you’ll see it. The yellowish plastic cover has to be pried off at the bottom once you remove the screws that hold down the shift mechanism. I used a decent scraper(pic8) and put some old magazines down to protect the wires around it while kinda prying the glue. It came off pretty easy really. Once you have it off you have enough room to work on the wires. Last pic shows wires back together with some shrink tubing on to protect them. Hope they last a while. Anyway hope this helps.
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
2005 clk320 cabriolet
Just a quick note.
mine stopped a's well, old age i guess...but I discovered that I could push start button and toggle shifter to the right a ltitle and it would fire right up. Been using like that for a year. It works, until it doesn't ...then new one.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 26
Likes: 13
From: Austin, TX
W211 E63 ESTATE
This thread was really helpful. I started seeing ESP Inoperable, and my push button stopped working as well. Interestingly, it seems to work fine if I depress the leftmost side of the brake. I'm positive it's the break switch.
Update: it was the brake switch for sure. Don't buy anything other than OEM. I did, and the switch's threads did not properly fit into their channel causing more problems.
This is the correct switch (and OEM) for 2007 + 2008 W211's, https://ebay.us/yTPnGR
Update: it was the brake switch for sure. Don't buy anything other than OEM. I did, and the switch's threads did not properly fit into their channel causing more problems.
This is the correct switch (and OEM) for 2007 + 2008 W211's, https://ebay.us/yTPnGR
Last edited by BobsACoolGuy; Nov 23, 2018 at 12:14 PM. Reason: Updated
