Manuyc

i agree

dyno

for those interested in the Knob thing
.. more pics here

https://mbworld.org/forums/w219/5073...epair-mod.html


EDIT : the word KNOB causes the link to not work .. so try this
https://mbworld.org/forums/5723380-post1.html

CLS 219 section

turbo97se

I am late to this thread .. but for future reference if you want to check the function of your start button do the following:
1. Press start button without foot on brake. The lights on the cluster should illuminate after pressing the button (once or twice), this is like turning the key to ACC.
a. If there is no response, then you likely have a bad switch.
b. If there is response, try pressing brake pedal, if the response is the same as without pressing the brake pedal and the car will not start, you likely have a bad brake pedal switch

2. If you suspect bad switch (no response at all), remove the knob. You will see two holes at the top of the metal part of the shifter. These are where the prongs in the shift knob go into. You can use a paper clip and short the two holes together using the clip. If the clip triggers start or ACC, then you have bad contact or switch. Check the prongs on the knob. If there is no response whatsoever you may need to hook up a DAS to see if the car can detect the key if none of these work.

Critter

Correct statement- Turbo97se
Good diagnostic breakdown

Turbomic

Hi there. I'm new to this forum and I've read your experiences with this start button issue. Unfortunately it seems that none of you found the solution to the problem.
Here is my case: My start button also suddenly stopped working. I did pull off the shifter boot and disassembled the button. I measured the switch when pushing it, and it works fine. I don't think the problem can be caused by the break pedal switch, since the instruments should light up when pushing the start button, without pressing the brake pedal or doing anything else. (it did when the button was working...)
Has anoyne out there found out what was wrong ??.

Best regards, Michael. Denmark.

SoCal55k

Mine had the same problem, it was a broken wire in the shifter itself. Pretty easy fix, here is the PDF I used to fix it.

hayseed

iTrader: (2)

I have intermittent problems -- if I let it set for a couple of days it fires right up ,, drive it around for a while and the button wont turn it off (I have to place the fob into the ignition),, then other times it starts and stops the way its supposed to -- then other times it doesn't work at all ? -- any thought on diagnostics for this ? -- batteries are new, door handle locks all work , brake light seems to be OK , and I cleaned the contacts on the pushbutton and put an ohm meter on it and seems work push on/off seem to work correctly --
-- it is close to Halloween so maybe its haunted

Turbomic

Hi Hayseed.
I am pretty convinced that the pdf from SoCal55k will solve both yours and my problem. I will try this tomorrow. It is the same as this thread : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post6218416

Best regards, Michael. Denmark.

RobE55

Mine had the same issue and the cause was latte dubble pump grande, hold the frappe but with two scoops of free range marshmallows === spilled into the switch from the previous "shaky hands" owner. Cleaning was no help. Pulled the shifter knob and did the shorted pins trick. It started right up.

$200.00 new knob, boot and plate from the stealership all is well. I am keeping the broken wire sheet for future reference tho...

Thanks SoCal55!

Turbomic

Yep.... Fixed !! As expected it was the tiny 2 wires from the shifter stick that was broken. I pulled the short end of the wires back through the hole and soldered a new flexible wire onto it. I used a wire from a pair of small headphones. These wires are very soft and perfect for this purpose.

Best regards, Michael

jettskiman

Hey I found the problem for the keyless go button on the shifter not working. You can take the knob off and check the switch with a meter. Found ours to be fine and saw a post about the wires at the bottom of the shift lever broken. That was it on ours. You can look down the center with a flashlight if you pop off the wood around the shifter and get it out of the way. The wires come out of the center of the shift lever (its hollow) and make a sharp turn. Shifting it back and forth eventually breaks them off. (See Pic9) It was kind of a ***** to fix because the center console had to come out and the wires are not very long to get in to solder back together. Anyway here some pics. The posts that I found to help me take out the center console didn’t show this screw that holds the back ash tray or vent that's on the back for the back seat passengers. Its big and beefy. Once you take out the front 2 screws for the box the back has metal clips that pop out. See pics for the metal clips I'm talking about. Then you can get that screw from inside back (pic5) to release the vent off the back. I don’t have photoshop so I can’t put the arrows on my pics like some high tech guys on here but you’ll see it. The yellowish plastic cover has to be pried off at the bottom once you remove the screws that hold down the shift mechanism. I used a decent scraper(pic8) and put some old magazines down to protect the wires around it while kinda prying the glue. It came off pretty easy really. Once you have it off you have enough room to work on the wires. Last pic shows wires back together with some shrink tubing on to protect them. Hope they last a while. Anyway hope this helps.

BrandonHTown

mine stopped a's well, old age i guess...but I discovered that I could push start button and toggle shifter to the right a ltitle and it would fire right up. Been using like that for a year. It works, until it doesn't ...then new one.

BobsACoolGuy

Hamza Msili

Bonsoir s'il vous plaît j'ai le message de la clé non identifiée
si vous avez une idée d'où vient le problème aidez moi merci

Turbomic

If you post in English you will be helped a lot better :-)