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So Drothgeb , red and yellow go together to power and brown is ground right ? Also should I run it how I have it now , directly to the fuse box or should I connect it back through the stock wiring?
I just used stock wiring. Based on the pic I think the red and pink wires of the harness connect together and go to the factory positive and the brown of the harness goes to the factory negative, but you should be able to look at the connector pins and see small numbers on the plastic some where to let you know which pin/wire is which number just to make sure.
Not Difficult but all depends on your own skills of course
First I found it to be a PITA but found not that at all and on mine you cant just jank the fan out and from bottom and up no space what so every complete waste of time unless you want remove everything first,
I did mine all from above and down engine bay no issues
Yes it drops I also posted som logings in another thread this one:
I diffently advice UPGRADE Pump first no need go to crazy for the pump but a better than the factory one that alone is a must really I strongly advice it.
And no need to trunk tank NO just like you said it all depents on your goal, I love this it pretty straight forward and really not expensive upgrade works like a charm work for me now I never had problems since
You WONT lower the IAT's but you wil get a much improved recovery time and that is the goal.
, the faster it recovers or some say regenerates it doesnt matter all the same
the faster your supercharger /Kompressor is ready for BOOST no heat soaking.
Yes mine dropped a bit to it also depens on daily weather if you keep loggig you will se it go up and down depending on weather I logged so much I got tired of it lol starring at that thing hahah.
I can with ease in mind say this IT WORKS and you wll be happy, also if your pump today is ok no heat soak start here wait witht he pump but if you want have more upgrade to a better pump.
Sorry I didnt have time to put in good but hope it works for you: is really easy
but MAKE Sure you have som clambs to hold the lines so yo dont loose to much fluid some will be lost.
Good luck bro
I made it even simpler and just ran a 3/4" hose up from the coupling (not a reducer) coming out of the factory T, put a plug in the end and zip-tied it between the SBC pump and the fender. No BMW reservoir needed; the 2-feet of 3/4" hose is the fill-point and acts as a small reservoir.
I made it even simpler and just ran a 3/4" hose up from the coupling (not a reducer) coming out of the factory T, put a plug in the end and zip-tied it between the SBC pump and the fender. No BMW reservoir needed; the 2-feet of 3/4" hose is the fill-point and acts as a small reservoir.
Hey guys, for those with split cooling setup. What fluid you using? I been using the normal coolant system fluid that is oem, but been thinking since it is split can't we use straight water for the most efficient fluid? Or is it to corrosive...
Hey guys, for those with split cooling setup. What fluid you using? I been using the normal coolant system fluid that is oem, but been thinking since it is split can't we use straight water for the most efficient fluid? Or is it to corrosive...
Antifreeze added to water raises the boiling point as well as being an anti corrosive agent. I would use distilled water and antifreeze for that reason.
Last edited by Fountain35; 09-09-2018 at 02:25 PM.
E55 AMG V8 Kompressor 2004 E 55 AMG Type: 5,439 cc (5.439 L; 331.9 cu in) Supercharged V8 Powe
Originally Posted by C32owner
Hey guys, for those with split cooling setup. What fluid you using? I been using the normal coolant system fluid that is oem, but been thinking since it is split can't we use straight water for the most efficient fluid? Or is it to corrosive...
U can but shouldn't
u can use destiled water and or like I use premixed like org + add some
Redline Water Wetter Coolant Additive
But only add to ur Resovoir not and never in engine coolant.
I did some experimental because I was like u but always used destiled water but we don't care about boiling point anymore not when splitted and we talk pure IC Resovoir since these 2 know have each their refill points and what is all about now is
1 thing only = fast regeneration a super fast pump and the correct mix and
not overfill ur resovoir a bit over half full mate.
if in doubt use premixed just like always. Be good to engine internal parts. Especially E55 before split my good so bad
U can but shouldn't
u can use destiled water and or like I use premixed like org + add some
Redline Water Wetter Coolant Additive
But only add to ur Resovoir not and never in engine coolant.
I did some experimental because I was like u but always used destiled water but we don't care about boiling point anymore not when splitted and we talk pure IC Resovoir since these 2 know have each their refill points and what is all about now is
1 thing only = fast regeneration a super fast pump and the correct mix and
not overfill ur resovoir a bit over half full mate.
if in doubt use premixed just like always. Be good to engine internal parts. Especially E55 before split my good so bad
Thanks, I am going to drain out my split cooling system fluid and put mostly distilled water in then add a little coolant fluid in for a very watered down mix. I doubt I am going to see a difference but I have an enquiring mind.
Hi! I jus get my trunk tank, just wondering, do I need one or two pumps?? I have Bocsh 101 in stock place, But If I can run with only one pump, I would rather but it in the trunk tank ( Example Rune14A 3700 HD )
So,.... my way???
- Stay with the Bosch ( Stock location )
- Add Rune to trunk tank ( Using two pumps )
- Remove Bosch and add Rune to trunk tank
few months bump i know. for the CL/SL class . i get the addition of the bmw res is the fill point. but do i even need it? all im looking to do is split it and forget it. im not doing track days or anything all im looking for is a reduction in temps.
few months bump i know. for the CL/SL class . i get the addition of the bmw res is the fill point. but do i even need it? all im looking to do is split it and forget it. im not doing track days or anything all im looking for is a reduction in temps.
I did not add a reservoir to mine. I just ran a hose from the "T" up behind the headlight, near the SBC unit and put a plug in it, then tucked it out of sight.
Pretty sure sl/cl is self bleeding from factory so you'll need to be mindful of the bleed line returning to main engine res from IC circuit when splitting..
few months bump i know. for the CL/SL class . i get the addition of the bmw res is the fill point. but do i even need it? all im looking to do is split it and forget it. im not doing track days or anything all im looking for is a reduction in temps.
I personally saw no change in temps from not split to split with the BMW reservoir. If you aren't looking to split the systems to allow draining/filling the intercooler/hx loop with pure distilled water or something like that I would recommend not wasting your time.
i read thru a few old split cooling threads yesterday and it seemed to be all the rage 6-7 years ago but i thought that i had recently read that most people say it's useless. i went drag racing last and some additional cooling would be great but would most of you say don't bother?
also - i noticed people saying that the new bmw reservoir is just a fill tank...what does that mean? would filling that with ice at the drag strip not help?
i read thru a few old split cooling threads yesterday and it seemed to be all the rage 6-7 years ago but i thought that i had recently read that most people say it's useless. i went drag racing last and some additional cooling would be great but would most of you say don't bother?
also - i noticed people saying that the new bmw reservoir is just a fill tank...what does that mean? would filling that with ice at the drag strip not help?
It means the BMW reservoir is a spot that you can add fluid to the system at. In stock form it shares the engine coolant reservoir. If you split them you need to be able to put coolant in the inter cooler circuit some where, either using this, or tanks, or heat exchangers with a fill cap like the DTK one, or as JoeJ mentioned above just running a line up and putting a plug in it. Ice would do little to nothing in the BMW tank because it's very small, and it's not added in a flow path (fluid is not going into and then out of it) it's just a fill point/expansion volume with only one line that runs to it. If you need more cooling for a close to stock set up I would start with a bosch 010 pump, and then a bigger a second hx if more is still needed. From my personal experience I'd skip the splitting/bmw reservoir stuff I saw no difference before and after.
With my modest cooling I see 15c or 27f over ambient once ive warmed up the engine with some hard runs and backed off..I got the HE and split need to add a tank or another HE perhaps to get down to 10f delta from ambient like people say they get..
With my modest cooling I see 15c or 27f over ambient once ive warmed up the engine with some hard runs and backed off..I got the HE and split need to add a tank or another HE perhaps to get down to 10f delta from ambient like people say they get..
I currently run 2x CWA 50, 1x CWA 100, DTK race heat exchanger and the stock heat exchanger in series with a 172mm CP/72mm fixed pulley combo. I cruise around at usually ~9-10 over ambient (SC always engaged), but there is a point where peak temps in a pull stopped getting better. The addition of the stock heat exchanger in series helped with recovery and brought down ambient cruising temps but same peaks still. I think the factory intercooler is just too limiting. I'll be doing the dual feed/return single pass intercooler mod next and see how big of a difference that makes on a very aggressive set up.
Seriously, the Johnson CM30 has less flow than the Bosch 010 ??...I have read that the CM30 has more flow and is a better ALL around pump than the Bosch 010.. Have you tested it yourself ?? I also re wired it so it goes on IMMEDIATELY after I turn on the engine but honestly I don't see any difference than the stock wiring...😕
BTW, i found this kit and i am placing an order and installing on my 2006 SL55. U.S made and seems to be a little durable than what's currently out there.
BTW, i found this kit and i am placing an order and installing on my 2006 SL55. U.S made and seems to be a little durable than what's currently out there.
yes, The CM30 on paper flows well, but what you are worried about is head pressure, 010 Flows way better with resistance, CM30 is Junk, We have tested every available pump on the market.
Durability is not an issue with a split cooling kit, I dont think anyone has ever broken a tank, they are Composite tanks and pretty darn durable. You can literally throw them accross the room into a cement wall and they wont break.
yes, The CM30 on paper flows well, but what you are worried about is head pressure, 010 Flows way better with resistance, CM30 is Junk, We have tested every available pump on the market.
Durability is not an issue with a split cooling kit, I dont think anyone has ever broken a tank, they are Composite tanks and pretty darn durable. You can literally throw them accross the room into a cement wall and they wont break.
thanks for the heads up. are you aware if the 2006 SL55 comes with the updates 010......i've heard sides, but i think the 2005 and prior model were on the older versions of the Bosche pump. thanks.
05-24-2018, 03:51 PM
