W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

New: FSP Pulley Review with EC Tune 2.0 (Jerry/Brooke/Shardul)

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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 11:10 AM
  #26  
Denroll's Avatar
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From: A to the Z (the state)
'06 E55
Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
So you mean to say, the new fixed pulley and tune ONLY, on an otherwise 100% stock car, gave 473RWHP? Call me skeptical, however I see the "before" dyno looks right, at around 400RWHP. Hmm...very interesting. What is the 80mm fixed pulley equal to crank pulley wise?
Yup, it's the Eurocharged test mule/beater car. They say driving that thing is an absolute monster with just the pulley and tune. And for full disclosure, I do think it has a new intercooler pump

While the hp gain is pretty nice, look at that effing torque gain! Shedding several pounds of something that spins that fast and having that direct connection is huge. I believe these claims after talking more with Bramage. He is saying something along the lines of "complete transformation" with this mod. Throw this in there along with the smaller lighter torque converter and your tires won't stand a chance under 80mph, lol.

I think the 80mm is equivalent to ~175mm crank pulley.
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 11:44 AM
  #27  
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one car at a time
Originally Posted by Bramage
Fixed Supercharger Pulley Review with EC Tune 2.0
Jerry (EC) – Brooke – Shardul

There have been various questions raised about the tune for the FSP:

  • Is the tune finalized?
  • Does it work?
  • Is it ready?
  • Is it worth it?
  • Does it make your car awesome?
I can answer all 5: YES!

I had the previous (EC) tune and pulley for the last week or so. Jerry told me he was working on a variation, so I decided to wait a couple more days to install (plus, my mechanic <Dennis> over at RNZ Conceptz) was swamped. Today, the stars aligned, and the pulley went on.

I performed the flash via Euro Flash V2 and started her up.

Initially, the car hunted around for idle, and there was some significant surging, but as I have a Dashdaq / Zeitronix, I could see the STFT were simply trying to level the mixture.

After idling for about 3 minutes, it smoothed out and began to idle perfectly. I took it out and drove it very gingerly just to make sure there was nothing major (like going full throttle into a picnic area or something).



For the first few minutes it seemed to surge a very little bit , but I think it was a combination of a whole new gas pedal (feel) and the tune just getting situated. I drove home. Now, everything seems good to go...


Now that I know its running smoothly, I can take it out and see what it really feels like. All surgi-ness is gone. Idle is smooth as ever (better than my old tune). STFT's are where they should be… and

The car has LOST any SANITY it still had. Period.



It is now an absolute BEAST.

I never liked the small hesitation on part throttle typical of the clutch system. Mini Vans would jump ahead of me off lights as my SC kicked in. Sure, I could punch it, but then it sounded like I was trying.



That’s no more.



Boost, acceleration, and raw power are THERE. It is VERY easy to break the tires lose just leaving a light. You must have a very light foot. You don’t need more. That is the biggest change from a drivers standpoint: Instant Throttle. INSTANT I can say it 4 more times, until you feel it, you never knew your car could feel like this.

This is day one, and I have put about 15 miles on the pulley and tune. I am running an 83MM upper with a 190 lower. This is quite aggressive. I will be logging and testing over the next few days to provide feedback to Jerry. My initial opinion is that the tune needs nothing! Remember one thing: The power is instant. If your wife or kids drive your car, you may want to start hiding the keys from them.



Also, start saving up for tires. You ‘re gonna need it!


This is ground breaking. I know it took them a little while to iron it out, but its there!




I will update this thread as I begin to collect data. IAT's look to be up about 7 degrees (Was at 18-21 now 25 - 28) That may be off a little since the car was idling for a while, and when I drove it, I was sorta on the boost a lot And remember, I am running a 190mm on the bottom
What sort of boost are you now running ?
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 02:17 PM
  #28  
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Boosting 16-17 with a peak of 17.8

It hits over 16psi the moment (and I mean the moment) you get into the throttle.

My fuel trims are still adjusting up (adding fuel), so I have not stood on it for any considerable time. Jerry is going to shoot me a new tune next week. In the mean time, I am just enjoying the bonus this gives to normal driving. I would have loved to put this on a stock car. Ill bet it just rocks. 17.8 is a little higher than I had hoped for, and I am definitely doing a trunk tank, even if I do drop the boost. Id like to max at 16.5. I think
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 02:31 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Bramage
I think
Famous last words...
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 03:36 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Bramage
Boosting 16-17 with a peak of 17.8

It hits over 16psi the moment (and I mean the moment) you get into the throttle.

My fuel trims are still adjusting up (adding fuel), so I have not stood on it for any considerable time. Jerry is going to shoot me a new tune next week. In the mean time, I am just enjoying the bonus this gives to normal driving. I would have loved to put this on a stock car. Ill bet it just rocks. 17.8 is a little higher than I had hoped for, and I am definitely doing a trunk tank, even if I do drop the boost. Id like to max at 16.5. I think
How are you logging boost? I have 178 lower and shardul clutched s/c pulley. I log with dashdaq through obdii and max boost I have seen is 12.5psi at around 600 ft above sea level. I have always thought this is low but not sure. Car just made 520whp/606tq with MBH headers, injectors, 82mm tb and these pulleys. Does this seem right or do you guys think I have a boost leak somewhere? How does one test for that, and where would be the likely culprits?
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 03:45 PM
  #31  
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E55
Try to log with just boost and no other parameters to make sure there is no lag because of the obd

Or you can tap the surge tank , you can also hardwire the zeitronix in conjunction with dashdaq to get instant readings from the ecu

Boost is a matter of restriction of flow, look at power generated instead of the boost #
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 04:13 PM
  #32  
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From: Racine, WI
2003 E55 AMG
Originally Posted by Joncl
Try to log with just boost and no other parameters to make sure there is no lag because of the obd

Or you can tap the surge tank , you can also hardwire the zeitronix in conjunction with dashdaq to get instant readings from the ecu

Boost is a matter of restriction of flow, look at power generated instead of the boost #
Thanks, I will try that. 520/600 seems a bit low for my mods to me, I was at 496/566 before the 82mm tb and s/c pulley on the same dyno
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 04:25 PM
  #33  
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What are the A/F ratios?
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 04:27 PM
  #34  
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From: Racine, WI
2003 E55 AMG
Originally Posted by Joncl
What are the A/F ratios?
they are very nice 11.6-11.8 from 3K rpm all the way to redline, it's a very smooth line, probally the best looking AFR's I've had on the car yet
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 04:42 PM
  #35  
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Which dyno?
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 04:56 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by bstudey01
How are you logging boost?
He has a Zeitronix MAP sensor tapped into one of the surge tanks feeding into the ZT-2:
http://www.zeitronix.com/installatio...allation.shtml
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 06:15 PM
  #37  
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I have been waiting for my tune for the 77mm pulley ever since I bought the kit from EC...hope I get it soon
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 07:06 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Denroll
He has a Zeitronix MAP sensor tapped into one of the surge tanks feeding into the ZT-2:
http://www.zeitronix.com/installatio...allation.shtml
I think this is the only way to accurately log it, I see the OP also has a 190 lower which is gonna be making more boost than me anyway. I may have a line on a 200mm. I just want to run 10's and then I will be satisfied!!
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 07:06 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Joncl
Which dyno?
dynojet
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 07:11 PM
  #40  
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A 200mm will generate so much heat, be careful
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 07:15 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Joncl
A 200mm will generate so much heat, be careful
I know, I would take the smaller S/C pulley off. I have upgraded cooling with trunk tank. Never really hammer on the car hard on the street anyway, if at all its a 2-3 sec blast. At the track the tank is full of ice and with my current setup I cross the beam at about 90 degrees, I would think it will still be alright with the 200mm.
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 11:01 PM
  #42  
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We really need some driving videos and cruising videos to put things into perspective.

When you get a chance, please upload some especially how does it react under normal

driving conditions and all ? S/C engaged all the time is still beyond my grasp as in always using it would just keep the car so much throttle happy

and even partial throttle would make it jump. Lol in snow it'll basically be useless then ?
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 11:22 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by viren.89
We really need some driving videos and cruising videos to put things into perspective.

When you get a chance, please upload some especially how does it react under normal

driving conditions and all ? S/C engaged all the time is still beyond my grasp as in always using it would just keep the car so much throttle happy

and even partial throttle would make it jump. Lol in snow it'll basically be useless then ?
Soon as I get my tune for the 77mm pulley from EC I will dyno it and make some driving videos and upload it..it will be good to compare the dyno's because I'm currently stock other then a HEM and a box tune from EC.
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 11:28 PM
  #44  
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I just bought a smaller clutched pulley from shardul I think I bought the wrong pully after reading this....
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 04:51 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by shardul
Very nice glad you like it!
Shardul, what is the weight savings over the factory clutch/pulley?
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 08:20 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by S13REMI
I just bought a smaller clutched pulley from shardul I think I bought the wrong pully after reading this....
Unless you're running meth or logging and watching your IATs constantly then you bought the right one. There's no failsafe with the FSP so you have to be vigilant.
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 10:02 AM
  #47  
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Bramage, great write up and I want a ride!

The 161K test mule car dyno sheet that is shown, has a 80mm FSC on it and that is equal to about a 175mm as far as boost goes but you gain extra power from large weight savings.

83mm is equal to the smaller clutched SC pulley, as far as boost goes, about like a 168mm crank pulley but again lighter. The smaller SC clutched pulley, has shown to make about the same power as a 180mm crank pulley at several dyno sessions and I think Toadster was involved in one of those. The smaller SC with clutch pulley and fixed SC pulley removes weight but most peoples 180mm crank pulley adds a lot more weight, so efficiency is gained with the lighter SC pulley but some is lost with using a heavier crank pulley.

The stock size fixed SC pulley is a good option for those that want all the benefits of being fixed, new tune format, free up rotational efficiency and keep their current boost levels about the same.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.

CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.

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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 10:36 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by SterlingE55
There's no failsafe with the FSP so you have to be vigilant.
it is called controlling the bypass valve to bleed the boost.
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 10:42 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by shardul
it is called controlling the bypass valve to bleed the boost.
Durr. My bad. Still worth logging.
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 10:50 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by SterlingE55
Durr. My bad. Still worth logging.
True
From what I have seen, any car with a 180mm or equivalent should have a AFR gauge and temp probe tapped into on of the surge tanks in order to get real time IAT reading.
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