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90mm ==> Stock
84mm ==> smaller pulley with clutch
80mm ==> Fixed pulley without clutch
77mm ==> who makes ?
If I have it correct(and I might not) the arrangement of the pulley's from EC go...Originally Posted by CharlyE500
Just want to understand this better, is this correct ?90mm ==> Stock
84mm ==> smaller pulley with clutch
80mm ==> Fixed pulley without clutch
77mm ==> who makes ?
90mm supercharger pulley - Stock
83mm supercharger pulley - equivalent of a 168mm Crank pulley
172mm Crank Pulley has no super charger pulley equivalent
80mm supercharger pulley - 175mm Crank pulley equivalent
77mm Supercharger Pulley - equivalent to a big Crank pulley(180 or 190mm)?
If youre not doing cooling mods go 83, if you are doing cooling mods, you can go to 80. If you aren't going ***** to the wall, stay away from the 77. If you want more power, with out the headache of watching your IATs, you want the 172mm crank pulley. EC/Shardul/Brooke are the only ones making this Fixed S/C pulley... it is available in 83,80,and 77mm trims
Out Of Control!!
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I was going by the 83 listed on the website...Originally Posted by ArmoE55
It's 84mm, not 83. I measured it. The rest is correct
So if I understand correctly:
Fixed pulley/ clutch less pulley comes in 77, 80 and 83.
With Clutch only 83mm right ?
Fixed pulley/ clutch less pulley comes in 77, 80 and 83.
With Clutch only 83mm right ?
They also have a 89mm virtually stock but also lighter and no clutch.
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Do they make a stock 90mm FSP?? I think would be the way to go if you are not going to be watching you IATs.. BUT with out a doubt need a tune. the fact that the bypass valve is controlled by the ECM...
and not vacuum operated like the Mustang cobra,Lightnings potiac GTP, and most other supercharged cars.
and the obvious fuel trim mods due to the instant boost.
and not vacuum operated like the Mustang cobra,Lightnings potiac GTP, and most other supercharged cars.
and the obvious fuel trim mods due to the instant boost.
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shardul
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We have a 89mm FSP
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is it possible for the by pass valve to fail? What would be the symptoms to watch for before blowing a motor?
Also if you find your IAT's climbing too high... do you just shut it down and diagnose?
Also if you find your IAT's climbing too high... do you just shut it down and diagnose?
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Anything mechanical can break
When seeing anything over 180* iats would be time to slow her down
When seeing anything over 180* iats would be time to slow her down
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shardul
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any mechanical component can fail. Are they prone to failure no.
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Shardul forgive me I am new here, when you say we have them.
Who is we?
Who is we?
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"We" is Shardul, Shardul, Shardul, and some others.
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Out of your experience:
Is it enough on the CL55 AMG to have only spit cooling and additional Heat exchanger + 010 Bosch Pump, when using a 77mm smaller SC pulley or a 180mm crank pulley?
According to the colored chart posted above, its in the very first green area and would net in 14.4 boost level.
Here in germany we have sometimes in the year days with 38°C (100F) and we have the Autobahn. However, even hot summer average is only around 33°C (~90F)
I would order a 93-94 octane tune for the pulley, for safety reasons, so is my car safe for longer WOT runs on the Autobahn with that 77mm pulley?
In stock Form it absolutely is. There are no issues whatsoever WOT-accelerating multiple times from 100kph (62mph) to 300 some kph (188mph+) in Stock form.
What else should/could be done? One step colder plugs?
Looped-rail + bigger injectors are definitely on my list.
Will a opened up exhaust side reduce the IATs? Since boost drops then?
Is it enough on the CL55 AMG to have only spit cooling and additional Heat exchanger + 010 Bosch Pump, when using a 77mm smaller SC pulley or a 180mm crank pulley?
According to the colored chart posted above, its in the very first green area and would net in 14.4 boost level.
Here in germany we have sometimes in the year days with 38°C (100F) and we have the Autobahn. However, even hot summer average is only around 33°C (~90F)
I would order a 93-94 octane tune for the pulley, for safety reasons, so is my car safe for longer WOT runs on the Autobahn with that 77mm pulley?
In stock Form it absolutely is. There are no issues whatsoever WOT-accelerating multiple times from 100kph (62mph) to 300 some kph (188mph+) in Stock form.
What else should/could be done? One step colder plugs?
Looped-rail + bigger injectors are definitely on my list.
Will a opened up exhaust side reduce the IATs? Since boost drops then?
Quote:
Is it enough on the CL55 AMG to have only spit cooling and additional Heat exchanger + 010 Bosch Pump, when using a 77mm smaller SC pulley or a 180mm crank pulley?
Will a opened up exhaust side reduce the IATs? Since boost drops then?
It depends on how hard you drive, how long you drive hard, and recovery times. Originally Posted by Crissus
Out of your experience:Is it enough on the CL55 AMG to have only spit cooling and additional Heat exchanger + 010 Bosch Pump, when using a 77mm smaller SC pulley or a 180mm crank pulley?
Will a opened up exhaust side reduce the IATs? Since boost drops then?
I don't have a large lower pulley, but have the upper pulley. My cooling mods are large HE, Bosch 010, -10C STAR, and I plan to install the split cooling. I think that is sufficient given my driving skills and habits. I do not hammer the car from key on to key off whether it's because of traffic, my wife/son in the car, or police. So for me, that's enough for keeping my cooling in check. Having said that, I am still debating to do a trunk tank (maybe 10 gal, but I think 5 gal might be good), because of the amount of work involved - but the trunk tank along with the above cooling mods is more than enough for a DD/street driver.
Again, it has a lot to do with how you drive and type of driving.
--
And yes, headers will definitely help temps as it reduces the amount of heat roaming around your engine bay and gets those hot gases out quickly.
In summary, for a normal street driven car (the majority of the time), IMHO, a large HE, upgraded pump, -10C STAR, and possibly trunk tank is MORE THAN enough cooling.
On another note, my IATs are around this range:
When ambient is 80-85*F, I cruise around 90*F. A quick two gear pull will spike to around 100-110*F, but recover to ambient or ~10*F above ambient within 60-80 seconds. Another hard WOT pull, and the temps will go to ~120* and then recover down to slightly above ambient in a minute or bit more. This is with large HE, Bosch pump, -10C STAR. I am hoping with the split cooling and possibly 5gal trunk tank, I will cruise well below ambient and my temps will remain in check even with multiple back to back pulls.
So, in conclusion, the recovery time is great but I am only going WOT for a few seconds and not doing long, autobahn pulls. For your purposes, a trunk tank is almost necessary if you're in full boost or boost in general for long periods of time as the temps will go too high and pull too much timing and/or shut the blower off.
Cooling is the most challenging aspect with these motors.
I am not going the meth route because of the reasons in my previous - I don't race or drag my car at all. Just some spirited runs here and there.
THIS IS WHY I LOVE THE WINTER MONTHS! The car already feels like a whole different animal and we haven't reached the winter months yet, only some 50-60*F days; car feels like it gained 50HP.
When ambient is 80-85*F, I cruise around 90*F. A quick two gear pull will spike to around 100-110*F, but recover to ambient or ~10*F above ambient within 60-80 seconds. Another hard WOT pull, and the temps will go to ~120* and then recover down to slightly above ambient in a minute or bit more. This is with large HE, Bosch pump, -10C STAR. I am hoping with the split cooling and possibly 5gal trunk tank, I will cruise well below ambient and my temps will remain in check even with multiple back to back pulls.
So, in conclusion, the recovery time is great but I am only going WOT for a few seconds and not doing long, autobahn pulls. For your purposes, a trunk tank is almost necessary if you're in full boost or boost in general for long periods of time as the temps will go too high and pull too much timing and/or shut the blower off.
Cooling is the most challenging aspect with these motors.
I am not going the meth route because of the reasons in my previous - I don't race or drag my car at all. Just some spirited runs here and there.
THIS IS WHY I LOVE THE WINTER MONTHS! The car already feels like a whole different animal and we haven't reached the winter months yet, only some 50-60*F days; car feels like it gained 50HP.
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Quote:
When ambient is 80-85*F, I cruise around 90*F. A quick two gear pull will spike to around 100-110*F, but recover to ambient or ~10*F above ambient within 60-80 seconds. Another hard WOT pull, and the temps will go to ~120* and then recover down to slightly above ambient in a minute or bit more. This is with large HE, Bosch pump, -10C STAR. I am hoping with the split cooling and possibly 5gal trunk tank, I will cruise well below ambient and my temps will remain in check even with multiple back to back pulls.
So, in conclusion, the recovery time is great but I am only going WOT for a few seconds and not doing long, autobahn pulls. For your purposes, a trunk tank is almost necessary if you're in full boost or boost in general for long periods of time as the temps will go too high and pull too much timing and/or shut the blower off.
Cooling is the most challenging aspect with these motors.
I am not going the meth route because of the reasons in my previous - I don't race or drag my car at all. Just some spirited runs here and there.
THIS IS WHY I LOVE THE WINTER MONTHS! The car already feels like a whole different animal and we haven't reached the winter months yet, only some 50-60*F days; car feels like it gained 50HP.
You'll never cruise below ambient, unless you have a cooling system like a killer chiller. It's against the laws of physics. The best you can ever do is ambient, which is not likely as the air entering the engine will pick up heat somewhere. The split cooling or trunk tank is no miracle cure-all. The real purpose of a trunk tank is a place to fill with ice.Originally Posted by ArmoE55
On another note, my IATs are around this range:When ambient is 80-85*F, I cruise around 90*F. A quick two gear pull will spike to around 100-110*F, but recover to ambient or ~10*F above ambient within 60-80 seconds. Another hard WOT pull, and the temps will go to ~120* and then recover down to slightly above ambient in a minute or bit more. This is with large HE, Bosch pump, -10C STAR. I am hoping with the split cooling and possibly 5gal trunk tank, I will cruise well below ambient and my temps will remain in check even with multiple back to back pulls.
So, in conclusion, the recovery time is great but I am only going WOT for a few seconds and not doing long, autobahn pulls. For your purposes, a trunk tank is almost necessary if you're in full boost or boost in general for long periods of time as the temps will go too high and pull too much timing and/or shut the blower off.
Cooling is the most challenging aspect with these motors.
I am not going the meth route because of the reasons in my previous - I don't race or drag my car at all. Just some spirited runs here and there.
THIS IS WHY I LOVE THE WINTER MONTHS! The car already feels like a whole different animal and we haven't reached the winter months yet, only some 50-60*F days; car feels like it gained 50HP.
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+1Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
You'll never cruise below ambient, unless you have a cooling system like a killer chiller. It's against the laws of physics. The best you can ever do is ambient, which is not likely as the air entering the engine will pick up heat somewhere. The split cooling or trunk tank is no miracle cure-all. The real purpose of a trunk tank is a place to fill with ice.
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For example, you can run a 25 gallon trunk tank and your IATs will still climb the same. At the end of the day, the intercooler core, being small and inefficient is the problem.
Below ambient was poor wording on my part. It doesn't make sense for the temps to be below ambient when talking about a motor...
Maybe it's time to sell and buy a C6 Z06
Maybe it's time to sell and buy a C6 Z06

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At some point we all need to realize what this car is and what it is suited for- A mid-11 second capable 4-door that can be driven anywhere in comfort on a daily basis. IMO if you want a 10 or 9 second car this isn't the platform for you. There are much lighter,easier and cheaper options better suited fir that purpose.
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THIS... I understand people wanting to make this thing run 10s or 9s... its human nature. But these cars are just big comfortable daily drivers... I won't be setting records in my car, but I sure as hell wont be getting left behind in the dust by cars either Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
At some point we all need to realize what this car is and what it is suited for- A mid-11 second capable 4-door that can be driven anywhere in comfort on a daily basis. IMO if you want a 10 or 9 second car this isn't the platform for you. There are much lighter,easier and cheaper options better suited fir that purpose.

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Yeah , I concur with all of you guys.
I didn't even get a bigger crank pulley cuz I was too paranoid lol, that "what if" and I make long trips and sometimes in remote parts of the country and
don't want the car to do something unwanted.
I really wanted to get the 77mm cuz I have all the cooling -Big HE, Bosch but keeping an eye on IAT's or logging all the time is out of my realm of
expertise. I rarely drive fast and never dragged so for that I just got a Clutch pulley long time ago.
The way I drive (civilized, normal, cruise control on most of the time) I don't need logging but everyone has said that it's a "good idea" lol
IMO best mods for this car , for people like me are Tune, H/E, Bosch, Clutch upper pulley and headers. Correct me if I am wrong?
I didn't even get a bigger crank pulley cuz I was too paranoid lol, that "what if" and I make long trips and sometimes in remote parts of the country and
don't want the car to do something unwanted.
I really wanted to get the 77mm cuz I have all the cooling -Big HE, Bosch but keeping an eye on IAT's or logging all the time is out of my realm of
expertise. I rarely drive fast and never dragged so for that I just got a Clutch pulley long time ago.
The way I drive (civilized, normal, cruise control on most of the time) I don't need logging but everyone has said that it's a "good idea" lol
IMO best mods for this car , for people like me are Tune, H/E, Bosch, Clutch upper pulley and headers. Correct me if I am wrong?
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IMO best mods for this car , for people like me are Tune, H/E, Bosch, Clutch upper pulley and headers. Correct me if I am wrong?
Absolutely agree.Originally Posted by viren.89
IMO best mods for this car , for people like me are Tune, H/E, Bosch, Clutch upper pulley and headers. Correct me if I am wrong?







