Any update?

 

Yes, making progress. I had a 24-hour shift (hooray, work/camping!), which shat upon my testing time yesterday, but today I will log some more miles.

I loaded a new tune a couple of days ago and started experimenting with the resistor vs "plugged in" setup. So far, a lot of my issues have been cleared up. I'm having an issue with cold starts as the car seems to be stuck in "cold start" mode until it gets some heat in it and then is restarted, but it is running much better than before.

And I would believe the claims about the added power. When mine is running right, ooh, it's so damn fast! Once I'm done testing and it's running right, I'll get it on the dyno.

 

You say seems stuck in cold start as in being in open loop. Have you tried checking with a scan tool if it is in fact staying in open loop too long.

 

I might just get a clutched upper pulley for a little added boost. This whole shifting issue with very little feedback from the manufacturer doesnt inspire much confidence they will have a solid fix for it. I talked to OE about getting the fixed pulley and they said they can tune for it but only in person. Probably for this exact reason I imagine. Every car being different maybe a canned tune can get rid of this problem.

 

That might be the best thing for now.

We didn't manufacture the pulley and are only trying to tune for the product. We aren't accepting any orders for FSP tunes until all issues are resolved.

 

with my car being mostly stock(just 80mm pulley and cooling mods),it drives just as good with the fixed pulley as it does with the 84mm clutched pulley in "c" mode.in "s" mode it's a lot more throttle sensitive with the fixed pulley.it can get alittle jerky if you're not smooth with the pedal.but I think that has to do more with the supercharger always spinning.the tune in "s" mode seems to be more aggressive and the car acts like it always wants to just go hard.my only issue is in "s" mode,under normal driving,it wants to hold the gear longer before it shifts.and also if you're wot and left off on the throttle at high rpms before it shifts the car will jerk real hard.its sorta like if you where in the powerband and real quick let off the throttle and then stabbed it again kind of jerk.
basicly with the fixed pulley if you want normal driving use comfort mode.if you want to be more aggressive use sport mode.
the best thing about this pulley is when you're in 2nd or 3rd gear(manual shifting)and you get the rpms to around 2500-3000 and then stomp on it.it really throughs you back into the seat.reminds me of my heads/car trans am I had with 4.11 gears.very fun.

one last thing I forgot.when you first cold start and the idle comes back down to normal after a few seconds,it will search for idle until it starts to register on the temp gauge.then the idle smooths out like it should.

 

pulley/headers combo has pretty much always resulted in +500whp

i was at 502whp with LTH/172mm crank pulley and now at 517whp with just bigger 180mm crank pulley, so i dont see why anything less would be expected with upper pulley/LTH combos

 

Hopefully the issues all get worked out. I could see tons of these selling if it ran right.

 

I went to go get a replacement resistor as I wanted to try some experimenting. One of my theories is that the extremes of the underhood temps from cold start to fully warm is having an effect on the resistor and possibly changing the resistance. Well, I dropped my freaking resistor down below the engine and couldn't find it. Fry's didn't have the 560k Ohm that came with the pulley, so that got me thinking... what about a variable resistor, a potentiometer? This would allow me to experiment with different resistance levels.

Anyone know what and/or why the resistance should be? I got a 500k Ohm potentiometer and some 220k and a 450k Ohm resistors I can put in series if I need to go above 500k (resistance is additive in series). I'm sure a 1 watt rating is plenty enough for those voltage and current levels. I'm a bit (OK, a lot) rusty on my electrical theory, so I may need some guidance here.

 

I did some sciencing this morning like a scientist. I took one (470k Ohm, 1W, "flameproof") resistor, my handy-dandy multimeter, and some wire. I wired up my leads to the resistor because I didn't have alligator clamps. Tested the resistor. Results:

Room temperature: 470k Ohm

Moved resistor to in front of cold air outlet in freezer and watched resistance climb to 490k Ohm.

Removed resistor from freezer and resistance slowly drops back down to 470k Ohm

Turned on stove burner and held resistor several inches above flame. Resistance went down to a steady 440k Ohm state with a brief dip to 430k.

Back at room temp, resistance rises to 470k Ohm. Repeated several times.

I am wondering if this variance in resistance is causing some of the funny business. I will run wires from the connector where the resistor goes to inside the cabin and put the resistor there. Should reduce temperature fluctuations.

 

^^^^diss guy is a winner lol

 

^damn...Denroll must of been up early this morning like a mad scientist!!

 

2 weeks straight in a row without a full day off... I was burnt out and in bed before 10:00 on a Friday night, lol. I've never been much of a late sleeper.

 

Did you stay at a holiday inn express last night?

 

I hope you can figure it out. I drove down to Miami with my car yesterday. And it was bogging out most of the time and sometimes loss of power. Once in a while it would just sound like a massive mis fire

 

Here's my totally professional-looking troubleshooting variable resistor. I picked up a potentiometer, and of all the ones that Fry's had, this one had the highest resistance. But it maxed out at 500k Ohm. The resistor that came with the pulley is 570k, so that was an issue. No biggie, I just took a 220k Ohm resistor and wired it in series. That gives me a resistance range of 220k-720k Ohm. The setup:




Just me sciencing. No big deal. A few minutes in the freezer saw it go up 10k Ohm.




Now for the car install. I needed something that would fit securely in the connector. I used these flat spade connectors and modified them with a set of snips.




What a handsome hand:




They go together like Forrest and Bubba:




So, I ran two wires from there into the cabin in the passenger footwell and set my test rig up. I used quick disconnect fittings to make sure I can swap things out as necessary. And here it is, all tucked up and out of the way:




And with a little twist of the knob, I can change the resistance for the connector:






I was driving around for a few days with the resistor pulled and the connector plugged in like normal. It ran, OK most times, but didn't feel as fast. Cold starts were extremely bad unless I did the battery disconnect first, then it would run normally. Otherwise, it was just ridiculously lean.
So, with this resistor installed and set to 550k, I disconnected the battery for a while and then went for a ride. While not a complete cold start, it did start up and idle just fine. A cold start tomorrow will tell me if the resistor is responsible for the cold start issue, or as I should say, required to avoid cold start issue.
Oh, car was fast as hell tonight. Makes me want to solve this problem that much more. Keep you posted.

 

I'm glad your putting in the effort to get this pulley to work. I hope your work pays off cause its such an amazing car with it on (and working right).

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Man I aprreciate all the effort, I really hope we can solve for the hiccup mode error. the idle searching and general bad manners I don't mind. What I do mind are the crazy lean spikes of hiccup mode.

 

Yeah I am happy your doing all the sciencing stuff. I would have the patience

 

OK, so last night with resistor in place, car was running like a beast. Definitely faster with the resistor in place vice having the connector plugged in like normal.

My next issue has been with cold starts. On a cold start, it starts up like complete *** for about 30-45 seconds. AFR are really high like it is just starving for fuel and map gauge is actually showing a slight amount of boost. The whole time it's just bucking and choking, then AFRs settle down to normal mid-14s and vacuum returns to normal. The weird thing is that giving it any constant throttle during this cold start mode, say like holding at 1200-1500rpm in park will have AFRs showing really high, like over 17. Even cruising on highway will have AFRs really high, like scary high.

During its cold start shenanigans, adjusting the resistance made no difference, even when going from minimum to max. Seems that only affects driving.

Now, the weird part that blows my gourd is that if I go disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then start the car, this completely gets rid of the cold start crappiness and the ultra-lean condition. The car will run completely normal (and is deliciously fast) until it sits long enough to completely cool down.

Eff me and eff the effing swear filter on this website. That should be something that can be turned off and on in the user CP because sometimes - no - many times bad words are needed as descriptors, especially when it comes to these cars. ****!

 

I suspect the bypass valve remains closed until the S/C clutch is engaged. So, if there is slight boost at idle, this may well create a conflict within the ECU maps.

 

Yeah, that's what I was thinking, but I don't know why it does it on a cold start if I don't do the battery reset, but runs perfectly fine if I do. Thinking about putting a battery kill switch in the cabin just so I don't have to keep going into the trunk to disconnect the cable, lol.

I just left work and didn't even bother trying to see if it was in crappy cold start. Did the battery reset and it was fine. Spun some tires in second gear during a freeway merge

It's like being in an abusive relationship... it's just so good when it's good that I'm putting up with the physical and mental abuse. "I promise, I'm gonna leave her some day... I...I just can't today. She loves me too much! Shut up, man, you just don't understand! You're just jealous of what we've got! You're trying to take her for yourself!"

 

 

What if your Bypass flap is broken? That Battery reset "repairs" it for some short amount of time?
Bypass Flap/Actuator should not be closed at all during cold starts and the car sitting. It makes no sense and is definitely not the stock behavior.

 

My car has now developed what i'd describe as a full time hiccup mode. any blip of the throttle to say an actual pressing of the pedal from 10-30% throttle position is being recognized as 100% TPS and causing the fall on its face cut off as it spikes extremely lean. even staying in it at 100% WOT creates an initial lean hesitation until the afr recovers and the car starts to gain power. I'm pretty discouraged at this point as even resetting my key doesnt clear this condition and makes things like merging on the freeway a hassle and WOT shenanigans make me think twice.

why would a blip of the pedal with no more than 30% throttle of the foot pedal be recognized as 100% by TPS?