Fixed Supercharger Pulley and Eurocharged Tune Gains 70whp+ !
11-13-2013, 11:01 AM
#102
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'06 E55
My car has now developed what i'd describe as a full time hiccup mode. any blip of the throttle to say an actual pressing of the pedal from 10-30% throttle position is being recognized as 100% TPS and causing the fall on its face cut off as it spikes extremely lean. even staying in it at 100% WOT creates an initial lean hesitation until the afr recovers and the car starts to gain power. I'm pretty discouraged at this point as even resetting my key doesnt clear this condition and makes things like merging on the freeway a hassle and WOT shenanigans make me think twice.
why would a blip of the pedal with no more than 30% throttle of the foot pedal be recognized as 100% by TPS?
why would a blip of the pedal with no more than 30% throttle of the foot pedal be recognized as 100% by TPS?
Silly question, but have you tried disconnecting the battery for 5-10 minutes?
I'm convinced all these problems are ECU-related somehow. I just wish I knew more about how it worked so I could troubleshoot more effectively.
11-13-2013, 11:18 AM
#103
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05 E55/08 C6 Z06
Hi,I have had a few other issues but fixed most of them and now only have one left...if let say I'm in M mode and take off from first right before I shift to 2nd the car feels like it falls on it's face then a sec or two later it picks up...this happens with ESP on or off..
All in all it's one of the best mods for the $$$$..car only has bigger HE and VRP HEM.
Originally i somehow had a fuse blown and was throwing some O2 codes..then after driving a while I would get no boost..figured that out too..it was because the electric tape around the resistor would get hot and it would get loose.
One day I had the trans just shut off on me from a 1st gear WOT..reseted the adaptations and looks to be ok now.
Only real problem is the cut off from a 1st to 2nd gear WOT.
If anyone mite have some feedback would be great.
Thanks
All in all it's one of the best mods for the $$$$..car only has bigger HE and VRP HEM.
Originally i somehow had a fuse blown and was throwing some O2 codes..then after driving a while I would get no boost..figured that out too..it was because the electric tape around the resistor would get hot and it would get loose.
One day I had the trans just shut off on me from a 1st gear WOT..reseted the adaptations and looks to be ok now.
Only real problem is the cut off from a 1st to 2nd gear WOT.
If anyone mite have some feedback would be great.
Thanks
11-13-2013, 02:31 PM
#104
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e55,cayenne turbo, supra, sti
Hopefully I get a prize for this but the solution would be using a diverter valve from an audi or vw. they are electronically actuated and I would guess the signal from the pulley magnet could actuate it.
you may have to use a relay or transistor to reverse the signal since I am not sure if they are normally open or closed.
so when the clutch is normally disengaged the divertor valve would be open and bleed off any positive pressure and when the supercharger clutch is engaged the divertor would be closed. only problem I could foresee is if there isnt positive pressure it could look like a vacuum leak
you may have to use a relay or transistor to reverse the signal since I am not sure if they are normally open or closed.
so when the clutch is normally disengaged the divertor valve would be open and bleed off any positive pressure and when the supercharger clutch is engaged the divertor would be closed. only problem I could foresee is if there isnt positive pressure it could look like a vacuum leak
11-13-2013, 06:38 PM
#106
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05 E55/08 C6 Z06
I actually solved that problem with a very big shrink tube the covered the plug and resistor after I heated it up to a point it shrank and pulled everything snug plus I zip tied it..so far it's been ok just the hick up from 1st gear WOT.
11-13-2013, 06:59 PM
#107
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I actually had a similar idea, posted and deleted it. I was thinking to put a relay in series with whatever is controlling the supercharger bypass flap and let the clutch signal drive that. But without understanding fully how it all works (for example what happens if the pulley is still trying to pull air through), I decided to delete it. However, a waste gate type of idea is a good one, question is where to put it.
I personally would hard wire the clutched version of supercharger pulley to be on all the time except when higher in RPM (using a window switch type of function at low rpm and let the ECU cut off in higher rpm when in danger rather than have it fixed all the time. I wonder how much mass is saved with clutch removal, I imagine it is somewhat significant.
I personally would hard wire the clutched version of supercharger pulley to be on all the time except when higher in RPM (using a window switch type of function at low rpm and let the ECU cut off in higher rpm when in danger rather than have it fixed all the time. I wonder how much mass is saved with clutch removal, I imagine it is somewhat significant.
Hopefully I get a prize for this but the solution would be using a diverter valve from an audi or vw. they are electronically actuated and I would guess the signal from the pulley magnet could actuate it.
you may have to use a relay or transistor to reverse the signal since I am not sure if they are normally open or closed.
so when the clutch is normally disengaged the divertor valve would be open and bleed off any positive pressure and when the supercharger clutch is engaged the divertor would be closed. only problem I could foresee is if there isnt positive pressure it could look like a vacuum leak
you may have to use a relay or transistor to reverse the signal since I am not sure if they are normally open or closed.
so when the clutch is normally disengaged the divertor valve would be open and bleed off any positive pressure and when the supercharger clutch is engaged the divertor would be closed. only problem I could foresee is if there isnt positive pressure it could look like a vacuum leak
11-16-2013, 09:22 AM
#110
MBWorld Fanatic!
just did some data logging and IAT are 122F that is not good right?
I have split cooling added,
but lately the car has not power once i take off from traffic light
can it be the resistor being loose?
I am stuck too.
plus I have a new code P0106 barometric pressure sensor Range/performance
I have split cooling added,
but lately the car has not power once i take off from traffic light
can it be the resistor being loose?
I am stuck too.
plus I have a new code P0106 barometric pressure sensor Range/performance
11-16-2013, 09:30 AM
#112
MBWorld Fanatic!
OK, so last night with resistor in place, car was running like a beast. Definitely faster with the resistor in place vice having the connector plugged in like normal.
My next issue has been with cold starts. On a cold start, it starts up like complete *** for about 30-45 seconds. AFR are really high like it is just starving for fuel and map gauge is actually showing a slight amount of boost. The whole time it's just bucking and choking, then AFRs settle down to normal mid-14s and vacuum returns to normal. The weird thing is that giving it any constant throttle during this cold start mode, say like holding at 1200-1500rpm in park will have AFRs showing really high, like over 17. Even cruising on highway will have AFRs really high, like scary high.
During its cold start shenanigans, adjusting the resistance made no difference, even when going from minimum to max. Seems that only affects driving.
Now, the weird part that blows my gourd is that if I go disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then start the car, this completely gets rid of the cold start crappiness and the ultra-lean condition. The car will run completely normal (and is deliciously fast) until it sits long enough to completely cool down.
Eff me and eff the effing swear filter on this website. That should be something that can be turned off and on in the user CP because sometimes - no - many times bad words are needed as descriptors, especially when it comes to these cars. ****!
My next issue has been with cold starts. On a cold start, it starts up like complete *** for about 30-45 seconds. AFR are really high like it is just starving for fuel and map gauge is actually showing a slight amount of boost. The whole time it's just bucking and choking, then AFRs settle down to normal mid-14s and vacuum returns to normal. The weird thing is that giving it any constant throttle during this cold start mode, say like holding at 1200-1500rpm in park will have AFRs showing really high, like over 17. Even cruising on highway will have AFRs really high, like scary high.
During its cold start shenanigans, adjusting the resistance made no difference, even when going from minimum to max. Seems that only affects driving.
Now, the weird part that blows my gourd is that if I go disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then start the car, this completely gets rid of the cold start crappiness and the ultra-lean condition. The car will run completely normal (and is deliciously fast) until it sits long enough to completely cool down.
Eff me and eff the effing swear filter on this website. That should be something that can be turned off and on in the user CP because sometimes - no - many times bad words are needed as descriptors, especially when it comes to these cars. ****!
so pretty much i have to put the resistor in the cabin to stop the bogging issue's ?
where is the resistor so i can see if there is any loose tape too?
thanks
11-16-2013, 09:51 AM
#113
I got a new code yesterday P0105 still map sensor related. Still same hiccup like behavior only now it's not prompted by part throttle/load scenario it's just running like that full time. I'm hopeful we can solve this as the FSP was what I was most excited about for my new setup. I may need to start shopping for a crank and clutched sc pulley 
.
.
11-16-2013, 09:52 AM
#114
MBWorld Fanatic!
11-16-2013, 09:58 AM
#115
You should have spent money on afr and data logging , the most important thing is knowing what your ecu is doing. Doesn't EC also say data logging is a needed with the fixed pulley
11-16-2013, 12:29 PM
#117
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'06 E55
I don't think you do, as long as the resistor is solidly in there and not coming loose. Are you hitting "Hiccup Mode" when you notice the bogging, or is it after a cold start? Try disconnecting the battery for 5 or more minutes.
I wanted to try some stuff today, but the tire shop I went to last night ended up ripping off my front bumper
when they backed it off the lift. Now it's in the shop and I'm in a rental Tahoe.
11-16-2013, 06:06 PM
#118
MBWorld Fanatic!
I don't think you do, as long as the resistor is solidly in there and not coming loose. Are you hitting "Hiccup Mode" when you notice the bogging, or is it after a cold start? Try disconnecting the battery for 5 or more minutes.
I wanted to try some stuff today, but the tire shop I went to last night ended up ripping off my front bumper when they backed it off the lift. Now it's in the shop and I'm in a rental Tahoe.
I wanted to try some stuff today, but the tire shop I went to last night ended up ripping off my front bumper
when they backed it off the lift. Now it's in the shop and I'm in a rental Tahoe.
I can't believe they messes up your bumper
11-16-2013, 07:16 PM
#120
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Yes it does get better. It feels like a BEAST for 15 minutes then goes back into a slug for while and intermittent it will like a beast again on the highways . Plus I think I'm to rich. I only avg 14mpg city and 16hwy.
11-16-2013, 08:50 PM
#121
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e55
it seems that everyone who is having issues with this have one thing in common,82mm tb.my car just has the 80mm fsp and cooling mods and I have no problems.i would be willing to bet if one of you put the stock tb back on and had Jerry send the tune for the factory tb your issues will go away.
does anyone know if ec has personally tuned a car with an 82mm tb and pulley?i thought the car they used to sort out the tune was the shop car that was stock other than the fsp.i'm thinking since the test car was stock,like mine,they have that tune dialed in and that's why i'm having no issues.but if they haven't actually tuned a 82mm tb with the pulley and they are just tweeking the tune for it something isn't quit right.
maybe i'm totally wrong but just throwing it out there.seems weird that only people with the tb are having the problems.
does anyone know if ec has personally tuned a car with an 82mm tb and pulley?i thought the car they used to sort out the tune was the shop car that was stock other than the fsp.i'm thinking since the test car was stock,like mine,they have that tune dialed in and that's why i'm having no issues.but if they haven't actually tuned a 82mm tb with the pulley and they are just tweeking the tune for it something isn't quit right.
maybe i'm totally wrong but just throwing it out there.seems weird that only people with the tb are having the problems.
11-17-2013, 01:29 AM
#124
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it seems that everyone who is having issues with this have one thing in common,82mm tb.my car just has the 80mm fsp and cooling mods and I have no problems.i would be willing to bet if one of you put the stock tb back on and had Jerry send the tune for the factory tb your issues will go away. does anyone know if ec has personally tuned a car with an 82mm tb and pulley?i thought the car they used to sort out the tune was the shop car that was stock other than the fsp.i'm thinking since the test car was stock,like mine,they have that tune dialed in and that's why i'm having no issues.but if they haven't actually tuned a 82mm tb with the pulley and they are just tweeking the tune for it something isn't quit right. maybe i'm totally wrong but just throwing it out there.seems weird that only people with the tb are having the problems.
