!!!!HELP!!! W219/CLS55 cranks but wont start!!!
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CLS55
!!!!HELP!!! W219/CLS55 cranks but wont start!!!
Hello to all, I know this is the E-Class AMG forums but since they are similar cars (Mechanically) I figured I'd pick some peoples brains in regards to my problem. I’ve read plenty of info on the site in regards the CLS55/E55 but not quite the info I have been looking for. I have had my 06 CLS55 since 09 with no major problems until yesterday.
Car normally sits 1 month/3 weeks at a time before taking it out and driving it for about 2 days at a time. Yesterday i went to go start it and it started up fine and ran for about 5 seconds before it died. I removed the key and tried to fire it up again and it started up ran for about 5 seconds and died again. I noticed that the car would die as soon as the Red display of a battery saying visit workshop popped up. I don’t know if this is coincidence or not. I again started it and this time ran for 4 seconds and died again. Tried it one more time and just cranked but didn’t start. Let it sit for about 30 seconds car would crank occasionally try to catch but never started again. I read about the CPS going bad and allowing the car to start once engine was cold. I tried to start it this morning but would just crank and not start. The second time I started it i thought maybe if i gave it some gas it would draw some more amperage and charge up the battery since the display light was on. I maintained the throttle at 2500 rpm and as soon as the Red battery display would pop up the car would die regardless of how much gas you tried to give it. What could be my problem..?????? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. These are the existing symptoms before the car would not start. Could any of these existing conditions be related to the problems I’m experiencing?
1) Keyless Go remote battery fully dead. Don’t know if maybe the car can’t read the key.
2) Red display of a battery saying visit workshop has been on for a while but would disappear once the car ran for a while.
Car normally sits 1 month/3 weeks at a time before taking it out and driving it for about 2 days at a time. Yesterday i went to go start it and it started up fine and ran for about 5 seconds before it died. I removed the key and tried to fire it up again and it started up ran for about 5 seconds and died again. I noticed that the car would die as soon as the Red display of a battery saying visit workshop popped up. I don’t know if this is coincidence or not. I again started it and this time ran for 4 seconds and died again. Tried it one more time and just cranked but didn’t start. Let it sit for about 30 seconds car would crank occasionally try to catch but never started again. I read about the CPS going bad and allowing the car to start once engine was cold. I tried to start it this morning but would just crank and not start. The second time I started it i thought maybe if i gave it some gas it would draw some more amperage and charge up the battery since the display light was on. I maintained the throttle at 2500 rpm and as soon as the Red battery display would pop up the car would die regardless of how much gas you tried to give it. What could be my problem..?????? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. These are the existing symptoms before the car would not start. Could any of these existing conditions be related to the problems I’m experiencing?
1) Keyless Go remote battery fully dead. Don’t know if maybe the car can’t read the key.
2) Red display of a battery saying visit workshop has been on for a while but would disappear once the car ran for a while.
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From: Northern VA
W211
do yo uhave a volt meter? I'd measure the volts of both batteries. One in the trunk near the spare tire. And not 100% sure but CLS may have an aux battery under the passenger side engine bay (under the cabin filter). Battery should have at least 12 volts and 14.4 when engine is running. Might be time to put a charger on the batteries to get them up to full charge or replace the batteries.
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CLS55
When it did start no unusual noises or vibrations or shuttering. Ran fine for about 5 seconds then just died. Started it back up ran for about 5 seconds and died again. Never started back up after that. Please keep in mind that the car will crank over but just won't start. Has never done this before. I heard about the CPS messing up but will allow you to start the car on when the engine is cold. I let it sit last night and tried to start it this morning but will only crank over and not start. Haven't tried anything since!
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'03 E55, Range Rover Sport Supercharged, Ducati 748R
If the SBC battery up front is bad the car won't run (which is a good thing since you won't have any brakes!!). With the red battery display present, the SBC battery seems like the obvious first place to check.
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From: Atlanta
2006 E55 AMG
Put a trickle charger on the front battery, and then the rear battery. Let it charge until the trickle shows fully charged.
Do you know how to check voltage on your instrument cluster? I would do that once you have fully charged front and rear without the car started. Then if and when it starts, see what voltage reads while running.
Do you know how to check voltage on your instrument cluster? I would do that once you have fully charged front and rear without the car started. Then if and when it starts, see what voltage reads while running.
Last edited by chawkins2001; Dec 23, 2013 at 03:52 PM.
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CLS55
SBC battery is currently being charged. Correct me if I'm wrong but will this battery prevent the car from actually starting even though the main battery turns the engine over effortlessly? Thanks you guys for all your advice and help! It is greatly appreciated!
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'03 E55, Range Rover Sport Supercharged, Ducati 748R
It won't prevent the car from starting but it can shut the car down if it goes completely bad! I'd be willing to bet it's your SBC battery or alternator.
Btw, do not drive the car if either are bad...the possibility of no brakes has no positive outcome!
Btw, do not drive the car if either are bad...the possibility of no brakes has no positive outcome!
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CLS55
I can't drive it, it won't start! Lol.
Turns over fine but just won't start.. Kinda feels like it's not getting fuel or spark...but then again all these hi tech electronics are all new to me .
Turns over fine but just won't start.. Kinda feels like it's not getting fuel or spark...but then again all these hi tech electronics are all new to me .
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CLS55
Thanks @ chiromikey... I forgot to mention earlier that all lights stay lit on the instrument cluster at all times. With key in position 1 SRS light comes on. Position 2 all lights come on and stay on. I don't know if this is normal since I've never really payed attention before. Thanks for the info!
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From: Northern VA
W211
Oh no, no fuel pressure?? I just went through this a month ago. How many miles on the car? check your fuel relay in the trunk to see if it is still good. Also pull your rear seats to check the connections to each of the fuel pump to see if they are melted or not?? Have someone turn the key and see if the fuel pump passenger side comes on??
Worse case is you need new fuel pumps ( i went through this a month ago) which will costs some $$$900 is to get both the driver side and passenger fuel units online (Ecstuning). If you are mechanically inclined, install them yourself, or find a indy shop to do it. There are lots of posts on diy fuel units.
Worse case is you need new fuel pumps ( i went through this a month ago) which will costs some $$$900 is to get both the driver side and passenger fuel units online (Ecstuning). If you are mechanically inclined, install them yourself, or find a indy shop to do it. There are lots of posts on diy fuel units.
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CLS55
Quick update to what I have found. Both batteries are good and charged up now. Car still cranks but wont start. The visit workshop display is now gone. Still no fuel pressure at the rail. I checked the relay and it tested good. I checked all fuses and all are good. I checked voltage across the fuel pump fuse with the ignition in position 2 and no voltage. I checked voltage to the fuel pump relay and I am only reading 6-7 volts which Im assuming is to low to energize the relay. I checked voltage at the fuel pump and Im only getting 4 -5 volts but I cant hear them run. I checked for melted connections and loose wires but everything is in tact. WHAT NOW? What else can I check guys? Thanks for any input!
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From: NJ/Greece
2006 CLS55 & 2002 SL55 (R129) Silver Arrow
I'm thinking your fuel pump(s) took a dump on you. Its kinda like the IC pump failing... It may be getting power and the fuse is not burnt, the pump simply failed.
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CLS55
Happy New Year to all. I was able to narrow it down to the fuel pumps. I checked for voltage at the pumps and got nothing. I applied 12 volts to one pump and it turned on but when i applied 12 volts to the other it was grounded out. Should I just go ahead and replace them both since im already in there? Anything else I should look for.
Also Ive checked the fuel pump relay and fuse and I dont seem to understand why the pumps arent getting any voltage with the ignition in position 2. Could the fuel pump shorting out might of messed up soomething else? Is there anything else or anywhere else I can look at. I dont have a fuel pump elcetrical wiring schematic so I'm kinds of shooting from the hip here. Any thoughts or ifo would be greatly appreciated.
By the way the fuse is getting voltage and so is the relay. I dont hear the relay click though. ?????????????????
Also Ive checked the fuel pump relay and fuse and I dont seem to understand why the pumps arent getting any voltage with the ignition in position 2. Could the fuel pump shorting out might of messed up soomething else? Is there anything else or anywhere else I can look at. I dont have a fuel pump elcetrical wiring schematic so I'm kinds of shooting from the hip here. Any thoughts or ifo would be greatly appreciated.
By the way the fuse is getting voltage and so is the relay. I dont hear the relay click though. ?????????????????
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CLS55
Real quick gents,
The fuel pumps are located inside the gas tank under the rear passenger seat cushion.
Whats is on the driver side rear . Is it a regulator/filter?? I just want to know what I should order. Thanks !!!!!!
The fuel pumps are located inside the gas tank under the rear passenger seat cushion.
Whats is on the driver side rear . Is it a regulator/filter?? I just want to know what I should order. Thanks !!!!!!
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From: Northern VA
W211
Passenger side rear is the fuel pump. The Driver side rear is the fuel filter. Search "toadster" and he had a recent post where the part #s are in the thread.
if you are DIY then, up to you to just get the fuel pump (left side). But would just get both and dont have to worry that the other goes out and back to square one being stranded.
if you are DIY then, up to you to just get the fuel pump (left side). But would just get both and dont have to worry that the other goes out and back to square one being stranded.
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From: GTA, Canada
2006 E500 4Matic
Just a quick question, are you checking the voltage at the relay with the wires connected to the pump or not?? If yes, please disconnect the connector to the pump and than measure the voltage and see if the relay works.
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From: Asgard
E55 AMG
I just changed my CPS a few weeks ago easy job with everyone help here. Part was 40 bucks and it took longer for car to cool than to swap out CPS. Mine took a crap at 115k on a car that's lived in CA. Heat and age kill these things so time to change if you have not already.
Junior Member
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From: GTA, Canada
2006 E500 4Matic
I believe the problem is the Fuel pump, Relay or the wiring issue as the pump is not working. Disconnect the wire at the Fuel pump connector and measure the voltage with ignition in position 2, if Voltage is 12 volts, the problem is your pump. If voltage is still between 4 to 7 volts than it the Wiring or the Relay.
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CLS55
Good Morning Gents,
I changed the fuel pump and fuel pump fuse and fired right up. Butttttt i let sit for a day and when I went to crank it this morning it kinda hesitated to start . I had to let the fuel pump prime itself about three times before it would start.. Once started it ran fine. This pump only runs for id say max 2 seconds if that. Is this normal?
Also just to make sure I have done this correctly. There are for hoses that go to the new fuel pump. 2 of them snap directly over each pump. then you have a larger diameter hose and then a smaller diameter hose with no clips or connections. The larger hose i hooked up to a clamp on the actual pump housing which I guess is the return and the smaller hose I dropped down inside the pump housing. Did I do this right? Any insight would be greatly aprreciated. Other than the hard start this morning it runs fine. I was reading 70-75 PSI at the fuel rail at idle. Thanks!
I changed the fuel pump and fuel pump fuse and fired right up. Butttttt i let sit for a day and when I went to crank it this morning it kinda hesitated to start . I had to let the fuel pump prime itself about three times before it would start.. Once started it ran fine. This pump only runs for id say max 2 seconds if that. Is this normal?
Also just to make sure I have done this correctly. There are for hoses that go to the new fuel pump. 2 of them snap directly over each pump. then you have a larger diameter hose and then a smaller diameter hose with no clips or connections. The larger hose i hooked up to a clamp on the actual pump housing which I guess is the return and the smaller hose I dropped down inside the pump housing. Did I do this right? Any insight would be greatly aprreciated. Other than the hard start this morning it runs fine. I was reading 70-75 PSI at the fuel rail at idle. Thanks!
