DA was -400 on the day of the 10.58 run and very high on the day of the 133.66 mph run...like -1800. The 10.58 run was only 130.44 mph and it didn't feel as good on that run as it did earlier with slower times. Point is...the DA was getting worse by the minute that day and also the car was possibly actually slowing down that day as I had a small problem shortly after that...3 days later. I will get more into that in a few weeks...have to keep it hush hush!


Anyway, I think I should have gone 10.40's that run as I went 10.64 the prior run at 132.5 mph so why the 130 mph run right after that? That run was a 1.66 60ft as apposed to the 10.58 run where I did a 1.58 60ft. I don't think the slightly better 60ft makes a 2.xx mph difference but I could be wrong.


The E85 makes a difference for sure but you have to remember that I had pretty much pullies only! Also keep in mind that my times seem pretty much faster than others doing E85 with such little mods and I weigh 275lbs. to boot!


Now, the negative to my setup is that I am not relieving any boost and running like 16psi +! I am going to run 93 octane early this spring to see what the difference is from E85 and I will try and track it. I will post dyno numbers difference and times. I want to run 93 so I can drive it a little more. Lil bit of a PITA knowing that when I need E85 that I cant run it too low in fear of finding E85 and it burns 33% more on E85 as well. Problem with 93 octane for me will be cooling so I will do a lot of tests to see what is needed and what is not! At least I will be able to drive it places unlike before where all I did was stay local and race...which isn't a bad thing! lol


Bottom line...Urb's car is running probably the best with out having NOS or stroker motor or heads on 93 pump!!! His MPH is the best for sure! Just copy his set up as it is proven to work! I am not trying to brag here for me and Urb but the truth is that Urb probably has gone faster than anyone on his mods and I probably went faster than anyone on my mods and again...not trying to toot anyone's horns but it is the truth! Our setups are track proven to be the fastest IMO! Problem is with mine is that you need to run 'good' pump E85 and obviously have a great tuner!

 

you got a 137 trap ?! Damn That is really moving. Are you letting it cool down or do you not feel the need with the meth ? I noticed that even with my Killer Chiller for some reason I still lost 3-4 MPH when hot lapping. I have a faster flowing pump now so maybe it will help. You have it so good with your ability to actually tune your car. My GTO was like that and made it much more consistent. Still though I wonder what a good hour cool down would do for your times. Ideally nothing . The ability to hot lap your car is awesome and why I bought my chiller to begin with. Waiting a long *** time in between each run is no fun.

 

Whoops, meant the SL65 AMG. The old ones have 738 ft lbs and can be had for upper 30s now. They are sooo sexy looking too IMO. They remind me of a Vette or an exotic. Too bad they weigh so much more than the E55. That power train in our E55 would really be sick. Still they can trap 122-123 bone stock. That is moving! I read a thread where this guy was picking up 35+ MPH in the back half tune only . I believe he was trapping 128 maybe 129 MPH. Top end monster. I am pretty torn honestly. I used to want a Vette but now I really want one of these. A $200K Twin Turbo V12 for $37K

 

lol I think it's a no brainer brotha ,SL65 bud! I also heard a v popped in NY a few weeks ago so it seems those cars are not indestructible either, i will try to find out more

 

The transmission fluid temps go up fast in my car hot lapping and that is what holds me back since like I said the tranny will start flaring on shifts not shifting fast and crisp. That is what will screw up my time and mph. I can keep hot lapping and be pretty consistent unless the fluid temps are up in tranny then it is just wasting my time if I am trying to run a best time. I still hot lap it or at least as quick as I can get back up and run again when there are other cars to wait in line with sometimes though since it is still fun but I know half the time it will not shift perfect on every shift and cost me a little speed or time.

 

Don't forget when something breaks on that $200k car that it is gonna have a $200k replacement part price tag on it most likely. Better hope nothing pricey doesn't go wrong or you will be up ****s creek without a paddle.

 

Thats not good.. Did you add a trany cooler ? You should also make sure you have the best damn fluid money can buy. I wonder if there is a way to slightly chill the fluid or if it needs to be at a certain temp.

 

Yeah I'd do more research on them first.
Hell even their tunes are boatloads more for some reason. Eurocharged shows TQ go from 738 to 875 I think HP jumps to about 700. Seems like it wouldnt take much to make them quicker but you dont see a lot out there. Headers, TB a a little more boost etc and it should be able to lay down massive numbers and get in the 135 MPH realm I want to be in.

 

I have been wanting to get it changed out but haven't done it yet. I doubt it has ever been changed and is at 50k miles now. I haven't added anything for it.

 

Speedriven makes some high hp kits for the bi-turbo MB's. I think they have kits that can go up to 1,200 hp. The upgrades you see for the 600/65 engines are ECU/TCU tunes, injectors, upgraded turbos, intercoolers, heat exchangers, downpipes, and exhaust. I believe they keep the stock exhaust/turbo manifold with modifications to the turbo wheels.

Brakes rotors are very expensive on the SL65's as is the repairs and upkeep on the ABC suspension. Pop over to the R230 AMG forum and read to your hearts content.

https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...big-turbo.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...-packages.html

 

Who's car is this?

http://instagram.com/p/juu0CVTbw0/

 

Sorry didn't read through the 18 pages of the back n forth.. Have we agreed that the CTS-V is an absolute filthy beast? Also, not sure what the race outcome was with OP and the 700HP CTS-V but if the race was held open for bets, me personally I would bet my life on the CTS. I LOVE my AMG but I'm not sure a tune would be enough to even make a race out of a "700HP CTS-V". Unless there's a warp drive button in the 55K I dont know about?

 

Wow you were right. They have one early dyno and it was 805HP and 939 TQ at the wheels ! Guess you need an upgraded tranny and converter though. Otherwise its a bolt on crazy high power mod. They have even bigger turbos available. I guess those engines can handle LOTS of power.

 

I guess that you guys are still talking about the 65's but the 2012 e63's are going 10.90's and probably 10.80's now with just tune and downpipe. Very strong runners! I have not kept up with those cars in the past year or so, so I would imagine that they are going even faster now with other quick bolt ons. Very impressive cars, that much I know!

 

Not on here, but a guy here in Florida over in the Sarasota (west coast) area. User name is LiveFast on V forum. Can't believe he did that to his car (the black wrap or plasti dip), I just saw it posted the other day like that in his sig, it was red with a carbon fiber hood.

That was down in South Florida this past weekend at an event. We have a lot of 10 second Vs here in Florida and one or two 9 second ones also.

 

Yeah, the E63s are bad *** especially the new 2013 with AWD. Out of my budget . The SL65 AMG and the CL65 AMG are pretty much the same power train but a LOT cheaper. I think you can get the CL65s for mid 20s with decent miles.They look good but not nearly as sexy as the SL65 IMO. Convertible hardtop is pretty nice too. I figure the mods I would want would be pretty close to what I spent for ones on this car. Well probably more like the 10K range considering you need to upgrade the tranny/converter to handle 800 WHP/930 TQ. Damn that is like 1000 HP/ 1200 TQ I bet it would be good for a 9 second pass with numbers like that despite being so heavy.

Wont be for at least 7-8 months before I have to decide. I really do love the CTS-Vs, just wish they had nicer lines on them. They look good dont get me wrong.

 

The upfront cost of the CL/SL 65 may be lower but when you factor in the long term repair costs it will be much more expensive that buying a newer CTS-V. It will also be in the shop a bunch. There are a lot of common issues that will require constant maintenance on mileage over 60k.

If you can get past the looks of the Caddi, it will be much more reliable and easier/cheaper to tune for even more power. For what you can spend on a ABC repairs over a year or two, you could replace the engine in the Caddi or do a hell of a lot of upgrades.

Don't go into buying an ABC equipped car in any other way than your eyes wide open. Do a lot of research. Throw the data of those that have never had any issues out the window because they are the exception and or don't drive the car enough to be statistically relevant in your research.

The bi-turbo MB V12 is an incredible engine with amazing low end torque that just doesn't quit. They are super cheap to make very quick but it gets expensive to make 800+ hp. You may be better buying a SL600 and getting the works thrown at it. It will make 90%+ of the power with the turbo upgrades that a 65 makes with the same but the parts will be much cheaper to replace if something big goes wrong. Not to mention, the brake rotors on the 65 can go for around $3K to $4k a set. Throw in a couple coil packs, brake job, and some ABC repairs and you can go into the red by $12k+ in a year.

 

Thanks for the info. I have done a bit more research and the ABC doesnt really sound much more than the costs of our Airmatic. Struts are most common and are only $500 Arnott lifetime warranty. Rotors I imagine last a very long time and I believe can be had for a little under 1K each. Warranty seems like a very good idea on these cars .

I don't think I would go the 800 WHP route after looking into it more. Its "only" good for upper 600s on pump gas and other members have gotten to 660 WHP with bolts ons and tune. I think I could live with that... for a while anyway

V is still a smarter choice but whenever I see the SL I am ready to make an emotional purchase.

 

Very, very, very wrong on the ABC suspension comments. Airmatic is much cheaper and more reliable than ABC. One ABC pump installed at the dealership will be around $4k. There are around 10 hydraulic lines and many other components that can go wrong. A hose blows and, if you run the car for more than a few seconds, you just cost yourself around $5k+ at the dealership. You have to replace the pump, flush the system multiple times to get rid of the tiny metal particles that probably just clogged your control blocks or valves in your four struts. If you clogged the valve blocks or struts, the dealership will charge you another $2k to $8k depending on the damage caused by the metal particles.

The worst thing that has ever happened with my Airmatic was a leaking strut. I had plenty of time to fix and it never left me stranded. Any mechanic can change the airmatic struts. Even a do it yourselfer can change in the driveway with little effort. I put around $10k in my ABC in a year before I got rid of my CL. Don't underestimate what a pain in the *** the ABC suspension can be on a CL/SL.

 

Did you do all the work at the dealer ? They usually cost about twice as much. I was told the most common problem is the struts on the ABC which cost the same to replace as my E55s so I was going off that. I had a strut pop on my E55 and yes it can leave your car undrivable as well. I have read that changing the fluid on a regular basis prevents most of the problems they tend to get. It is very easy and cheap to replace fluid as well. Isnt there an aftermarket strut to get rid of the whole ABC ?

Probably just get a warranty with it anyway.

With so many problems there should be a lawsuit against them. There was one against Porsche for their cheap plastic intake tubes that cost a good $3-4K to replace and they always went out after enough miles. We bought ours it had already been replaced which was nice. I read so many issues with our Cayenne Turbo especially the 04s. We got such a good deal on it I just figured we would spend 4-5K on repairs the first year. 25K miles later all we have done is changed brake pads. Even the tires everyone said only lasted 10K miles are still good and probably make 30K miles. Luck of the draw I suppose.

 

Of all the problems I had with my ABC, none of the problems were from the struts. I went though two pumps, just about every ABC line, and valve bodies. Yes, my work was done at the dealership so I know I paid a premium but I also never had to rent a car because the dealership provided one while it was down. I'm on the road 4 to 5 days a week so I don't have time to do the work myself. I would have saved around 25% when you factor in the cost of a rental car had I used an independent but sometimes that can be a crap shoot unless they really know ABC or if they don't have a MB Star computer.

Here is the situation. A hose blows and you have the option to shut it down immediately and be stuck on the side of the road and have it towed or you can continue to your destination and wipe out your pump. Unfortunately, it never happened at a time that I could pull over and wait for a tow truck and lose an entire day of productivity or possibly be hit because it was parked on a 5' shoulder on an interstate bridge in the middle of nowhere.

That's the joy of ABC. It often gives no signs before it goes out. Some will say check the hoses but hydraulic hoses can go from no weep to completely blown in an instant. I had a few that blew with no signs and it took out the pumps and valve bodies due to the contamination from the metal particles. Airmatic has always given me warning signs and has never left me stranded or caused further damage because the air strut was leaking but that's not the case with ABC.

Can you replace every line with a new one as proactive maintenance? Yes, you can but it will be very expensive even if you take the hoses to a hydraulic hose shop. The pumps can go out or leak even with the best maintenance. It's just a crap shoot. Some will say it is all about keeping the fluid clean but, having driven one up over 90k miles, I can honestly say that even the best maintenance won't keep you from having ABC issues.

Yes, I think there should have been a class action suit. I would have been one of the first to join. The system is just such an expensive pain. Great when it works right but crazy expensive when it fails.

 

Hey guys like I said I was trying to find out the v that popped in NY but so far all I know is that it was tuned from Enzo performance in NY so any guys wanting to tune a v be careful they can be just as fragile as our Benz

 

Good info, well a warranty sounds like it is a must. That or if they make an aftermarket replacement and get rid of ABC all together.

 

Hey guys took my car to the dyno.... Below is the chart, after 6k the car went rich as ffff! 432rwp 484 rtq with 122k and just EC pulley and box tune. I have brabus 20z with 30 series tires. Technician at Specialty Z in Chatsworth, CA thought the wheels were slighly off on the mount. The graph is pretty choppy. The supercharger tensioner pulley bearing is whining just a little so I'm sure both it and the tensioner are trash. I have stock exhaust and am going to smog in the next couple months then I will release the hounds! Will check with EC to make a plan.

 

I'll bet your IATs were sky high.

Dumping fuel at the end of a long pull is usually what happens when there isn't adequate cooling.

EC will get you sorted out.


-G