77mm Fixed Supercharger Pulley & Eurocharged Tune
01-14-2014, 05:53 PM
#26
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C215 CL55 AMG, W124 500E, W210 E430, W124 300E
Very nice review. Thanks alot.
I really hope Eurocharged will track down the hiccup/lean-spike issues ready for the next summer season. Then i will also pull the trigger on that thing.
I really hope Eurocharged will track down the hiccup/lean-spike issues ready for the next summer season. Then i will also pull the trigger on that thing.
01-28-2015, 12:08 PM
#30
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'03 CL55 AMG & '09 SL63 AMG
Can you possibly give a more detailed instructions of how to install the fsp?
So i managed to get the time to finally get the fixed supercharger pulley in after having it sit on the shelf for a few months. I understand that Eurocharged are no longer selling or tuning for these as some are having complications with the infamous Throttle Body hiccup. Im not posting to cover the same issues others have addressed, i myself have not upgraded the throttle body and let me say i have put nearly 500kms or 310 miles on the car since the upgrade and ill say now that the car has never run better. Feels amazing to rid the car of that sluggish supercharger clutch, the car is now a complete animal, especially in sport mode which takes quite a bit of time to get use to. Pretty sure i schit myself when i first took the car out and almost snapped my neck with the loads of torque on tap and the peppiness of the new fixed pulley design. C mode is a little easier to drive but the power is stil there when u want it. Im sure many others on here can back me up to say that they broke the tyres lose without even trying. With only a johnson cm30 and a FTP dual pass front mount H/E my IAT's stay 10 degrees celsius above ambient while cruising/vacuum which is understandable considering the supercharger is always spinning. for those who are too scared to go anywhere near the crank pulley this is the mod for you, especially if your a DIY'er. Takes literally 30 minutes to install just get a decent impact wrench to loosen the supercharger bolt, - needs to be attacked by jacking up engine or through wiggling up the fan shroud and getting an extension through it. Reinstaling the new one by lining up the pins with the non threaded holes and torquing bolt down to 40ft lbs. No shims to worry about! Fold the prongs of the resistor into the supercharger clutch wiring harness and your good to go. i really hope Eurocharged can figure out the issues others are having with upgraded Throttle bodies. i know for sure that the tune for the cars not running upgraded TB's is spot on and i understand that Jerry has put so much time an effort into getting the tune to work flawlessly. Im sure we would all hate for his time an effort to go to waste and i hope he TB issue gets ironed out. I personally have had no issues and have driven the car at various speeds and conditions with no worries. This Mod is well worth the money and is a real asset to the M113K community, extending my gratitude to Ultimate Performance & Design (UPD) the creators and to Eurocharged for the TUNE. i really hope this product hits the shelves again for everyone else to enjoy the clutchless design, the power that comes with a 77mm (+85rwhp) all with the ease of the install compared to a 180mm crank. 
Just dont forget to stay on top of and monitor your IATs! Will be getting the car on the dyno soon and will report my findings accordingly.
For those who have no experienced the fixed pulleys, your missing out on alot of fun and a Schit load of smiles from your buddies riding along with you. Be warned that you may need to install a neck brace into each seat of the car and get use to the words Hooolyy S*** and OMG What The F***
i know there have been quiet a few threads on this topic but just thought id share my experience for the fence sitters and my hopes that all of Jerry's time and effort doesnt go to waste and that the TB issue is ironed out for those in a difficult situation wanting to run a Fixed Pulley.
Just dont forget to stay on top of and monitor your IATs! Will be getting the car on the dyno soon and will report my findings accordingly. For those who have no experienced the fixed pulleys, your missing out on alot of fun and a Schit load of smiles from your buddies riding along with you. Be warned that you may need to install a neck brace into each seat of the car and get use to the words Hooolyy S*** and OMG What The F***
i know there have been quiet a few threads on this topic but just thought id share my experience for the fence sitters and my hopes that all of Jerry's time and effort doesnt go to waste and that the TB issue is ironed out for those in a difficult situation wanting to run a Fixed Pulley.
08-25-2015, 05:42 PM
#31
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2004 E55/2011 CTS V coupe
Just through the search bringing this thread back alive. Just purchased an 04 and looking into the 77mm pulley. Right now its bone stock and still learning alot about this car and precautionary stuff. Antyhing else I need with a 77mm pulley and tune such as plugs or injectors? I'm also in Denver so elevation will play a small part. Also I've done plenty searches for Intakes for the w211 and havent really come up with too much, there are alot of custom intakes I'm finding. can someone point me in a good direction as far as intakes go. Thanks!
08-25-2015, 06:02 PM
#33
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2004 E55/2011 CTS V coupe
having that done this week. only mods in the coming week are Aesthetics, performance related will come down the road maybe a month or two, just want to put together a plan/mod stages.
08-25-2015, 06:37 PM
#34
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I wouldn't change the stock intake setup, but fuel delivery (fuel rail) was a big point on that engine that needed to be beefed up, but that's as you go more towards full bolt ons, I think you should be fine with pulley and tune. Glad there are some fellow Colorado guys on here
08-25-2015, 07:53 PM
#36
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C215 CL55 AMG, W124 500E, W210 E430, W124 300E
Are the FSPs dead? Still have mine here but wont install it in fear of hiccup and/or lean-spike issues.
If a tuner just could make those tunes bulletproof so they work without issues...
If a tuner just could make those tunes bulletproof so they work without issues...
08-25-2015, 09:01 PM
#37
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2004 E55/2011 CTS V coupe
I wouldn't change the stock intake setup, but fuel delivery (fuel rail) was a big point on that engine that needed to be beefed up, but that's as you go more towards full bolt ons, I think you should be fine with pulley and tune. Glad there are some fellow Colorado guys on here
Any good tuners in the area? I see on EC's webpage pulley and tune is $599, what does their tune consist of just a basic tune I can install or load myself or how does it work? Still learning here be patient with me!
08-25-2015, 09:06 PM
#38
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I've seen people pick up 20+ WHP on the dyno from one pull to the next after removing the stock airboxes. I plan on getting the Needswings setup or having my fabricator come up with something similar. If you're smart you will also datalog if you plan on doing any kind of serious modding.
Of course this is just my 2 copper, YMMV.
Of course this is just my 2 copper, YMMV.
08-25-2015, 09:22 PM
#39
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No don't think so, e55greasmonkey was the proverbial guinea pig and had it tested a while back and the needswings gave him 6hp tops and then I remember going to 4hp or so, don't bother, the stock intake is actually very good.
08-26-2015, 01:20 AM
#41
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well I learned something, I'll definitely leave the intake alone I don't waste money for little benefit. How about just replacing the filters and if so just go with k&n?
Any good tuners in the area? I see on EC's webpage pulley and tune is $599, what does their tune consist of just a basic tune I can install or load myself or how does it work? Still learning here be patient with me!
Any good tuners in the area? I see on EC's webpage pulley and tune is $599, what does their tune consist of just a basic tune I can install or load myself or how does it work? Still learning here be patient with me!
Last edited by AMGAffalterbach; 08-26-2015 at 01:25 AM.
08-26-2015, 03:21 AM
#42
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2004 E55/2011 CTS V coupe
Some people will claim the K&N Filters are better, I personally believe they don't give you much benefit and some even argue they let particulate matter through that stock filters don't. I recommend you go with Kleemann if you can pony up the extra money, they dyno tune their cars and they have a shop out in Colorado Springs. I always think protuning is better than OTS, but that's just me. Many of these companies that you send your ECU to or will give you a flash loader also provide remote tuning services so just shop around. Also, I think they have aftermarket drop in filters at Kleemann, but in any case their technical expertise is definitely unsurpassed as far as local shops are concerned when it comes to AMGs.
I fundamentally agree with everything he said, again I would pay attention more to people like these (CTSV_OR_E55) because they have modded cars and have been around for a long time. I drive a stock E550 so I'm just sharing the knowledge those who are modded and dragsters have imparted upon me. But there are a lot of rules of thumb that hold true for any car, and in my opinion protuning is better and leaving the car as stock as possible while making sure you have the best supporting mods for the power levels you do want to do will serve you well in the long run. If it isn't broken, don't try to fix it.
I fundamentally agree with everything he said, again I would pay attention more to people like these (CTSV_OR_E55) because they have modded cars and have been around for a long time. I drive a stock E550 so I'm just sharing the knowledge those who are modded and dragsters have imparted upon me. But there are a lot of rules of thumb that hold true for any car, and in my opinion protuning is better and leaving the car as stock as possible while making sure you have the best supporting mods for the power levels you do want to do will serve you well in the long run. If it isn't broken, don't try to fix it.
08-26-2015, 05:00 AM
#43
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Glad to hear! And absolutely, one think I would suggest for the M113K is an upgraded heat exchanger and split cooling system, easy to do but definitely a smart decision. Also, be weary of a bad IC pump if you start losing power for no reason, since the supercharger is clutch based, if you start to overheat (as I understand it) it won't engage the blower. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong here. TheCold5.0, one of my friends here in Colorado, used an UltraGauge to determine his IC pump was going bad due to alarming temps under load and after cruising followed by no power. Once he fixed that issue he found temps were a lot more reasonable, but he's considering an upgraded heat exchanger at the moment too.
From what I understand, stock injectors are fine, but a lot of people tend to do fuel rail upgrades as when you get to higher hp levels delivery/starvation can become an issue for certain cylinders, specifically cylinder 8. Stock injectors can go above 80% duty cycle on a stage 3 car (according to adianaty), so at that point it would be wise to upgrade, but stage 1 you're likely well within safe limits. Can't find much common knowledge or widespread info on flow rates of stock E55 injectors, but from what I can gather the Bosch 52lb/hour 550cc High Impedance Fuel Injector set is the common upgrade. A lot of guys here tend to do "looped" fuel rails, but my knowledge of that is limited to my arm-chair expertise. It also depends on the production year of your car and the injectors you have from the factory, apparently the stock black injectors from earlier M113Ks are 38-39 lb/hr @ 3 bar and the later light-blue injectors are 44-45 lb/hr @ 3 bar, with the cutoff being the 2006 E55 AMG model year. So I believe you have the lower flow injectors in the 2004 model year. But again, I'm drawing from only a few scarce sources.
Depending on mileage too - before you mod - it would be a good idea to change out your supercharger oil, I think that's something a lot of E55 owners (at least the ones I know) overlook, but isn't something that is regularly dealt with through maintenance. It's a pain in the ***, but I suggest searching more about the procedure since there are write-ups on it. Mobil1 Jet Oil II is relatively cheap as you only need 1 quart.
From what I understand, stock injectors are fine, but a lot of people tend to do fuel rail upgrades as when you get to higher hp levels delivery/starvation can become an issue for certain cylinders, specifically cylinder 8. Stock injectors can go above 80% duty cycle on a stage 3 car (according to adianaty), so at that point it would be wise to upgrade, but stage 1 you're likely well within safe limits. Can't find much common knowledge or widespread info on flow rates of stock E55 injectors, but from what I can gather the Bosch 52lb/hour 550cc High Impedance Fuel Injector set is the common upgrade. A lot of guys here tend to do "looped" fuel rails, but my knowledge of that is limited to my arm-chair expertise. It also depends on the production year of your car and the injectors you have from the factory, apparently the stock black injectors from earlier M113Ks are 38-39 lb/hr @ 3 bar and the later light-blue injectors are 44-45 lb/hr @ 3 bar, with the cutoff being the 2006 E55 AMG model year. So I believe you have the lower flow injectors in the 2004 model year. But again, I'm drawing from only a few scarce sources.
Depending on mileage too - before you mod - it would be a good idea to change out your supercharger oil, I think that's something a lot of E55 owners (at least the ones I know) overlook, but isn't something that is regularly dealt with through maintenance. It's a pain in the ***, but I suggest searching more about the procedure since there are write-ups on it. Mobil1 Jet Oil II is relatively cheap as you only need 1 quart.
Last edited by AMGAffalterbach; 08-26-2015 at 05:42 AM.
08-26-2015, 01:28 PM
#46
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2004 E55/2011 CTS V coupe
Glad to hear! And absolutely, one think I would suggest for the M113K is an upgraded heat exchanger and split cooling system, easy to do but definitely a smart decision. Also, be weary of a bad IC pump if you start losing power for no reason, since the supercharger is clutch based, if you start to overheat (as I understand it) it won't engage the blower. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong here. TheCold5.0, one of my friends here in Colorado, used an UltraGauge to determine his IC pump was going bad due to alarming temps under load and after cruising followed by no power. Once he fixed that issue he found temps were a lot more reasonable, but he's considering an upgraded heat exchanger at the moment too.
From what I understand, stock injectors are fine, but a lot of people tend to do fuel rail upgrades as when you get to higher hp levels delivery/starvation can become an issue for certain cylinders, specifically cylinder 8. Stock injectors can go above 80% duty cycle on a stage 3 car (according to adianaty), so at that point it would be wise to upgrade, but stage 1 you're likely well within safe limits. Can't find much common knowledge or widespread info on flow rates of stock E55 injectors, but from what I can gather the Bosch 52lb/hour 550cc High Impedance Fuel Injector set is the common upgrade. A lot of guys here tend to do "looped" fuel rails, but my knowledge of that is limited to my arm-chair expertise. It also depends on the production year of your car and the injectors you have from the factory, apparently the stock black injectors from earlier M113Ks are 38-39 lb/hr @ 3 bar and the later light-blue injectors are 44-45 lb/hr @ 3 bar, with the cutoff being the 2006 E55 AMG model year. So I believe you have the lower flow injectors in the 2004 model year. But again, I'm drawing from only a few scarce sources.
Depending on mileage too - before you mod - it would be a good idea to change out your supercharger oil, I think that's something a lot of E55 owners (at least the ones I know) overlook, but isn't something that is regularly dealt with through maintenance. It's a pain in the ***, but I suggest searching more about the procedure since there are write-ups on it. Mobil1 Jet Oil II is relatively cheap as you only need 1 quart.
From what I understand, stock injectors are fine, but a lot of people tend to do fuel rail upgrades as when you get to higher hp levels delivery/starvation can become an issue for certain cylinders, specifically cylinder 8. Stock injectors can go above 80% duty cycle on a stage 3 car (according to adianaty), so at that point it would be wise to upgrade, but stage 1 you're likely well within safe limits. Can't find much common knowledge or widespread info on flow rates of stock E55 injectors, but from what I can gather the Bosch 52lb/hour 550cc High Impedance Fuel Injector set is the common upgrade. A lot of guys here tend to do "looped" fuel rails, but my knowledge of that is limited to my arm-chair expertise. It also depends on the production year of your car and the injectors you have from the factory, apparently the stock black injectors from earlier M113Ks are 38-39 lb/hr @ 3 bar and the later light-blue injectors are 44-45 lb/hr @ 3 bar, with the cutoff being the 2006 E55 AMG model year. So I believe you have the lower flow injectors in the 2004 model year. But again, I'm drawing from only a few scarce sources.
Depending on mileage too - before you mod - it would be a good idea to change out your supercharger oil, I think that's something a lot of E55 owners (at least the ones I know) overlook, but isn't something that is regularly dealt with through maintenance. It's a pain in the ***, but I suggest searching more about the procedure since there are write-ups on it. Mobil1 Jet Oil II is relatively cheap as you only need 1 quart.
One thing that has surprised me is everything is comparable or even cheaper then my V..the common bosch injector upgrade can be had for 300 bucks vs the common id850 injectors for the V which are $900..as well a good H/E for the e55 $400 vs $600 or so for the V.
The car is fairly high mileage and to be on the safe side I'll get the s/c oil swapped out soon. Tomorrow have an appt. for an oil change on my lunch break at hoover mercedes if you're familiar with then around the denver area, so I'll set something up for next week to change out the s/c oil, or maybe I can do that this weekend if I get some time.
08-26-2015, 04:16 PM
#47
Member
Just want to share my .02...
I have the 77mm fsp. The one problem I have and that is at the 1-2 upshift, if the rpms land between 1.8-2k and the throttle is at 30% there is a surge. I have had the 77mm fsp for a few months now and about 6-8k miles which, if you couldnt tell, means I drive a ton (18k miles in the 8 months I've owned the car) and I have no issues driving every day. I also have a new tune waiting at home that may solve the issue. The FSP is fun and I'll most likely never go back to a clutched pulley.
The HE issue is definitely something that needs to be addressed along with the pump for anyone who owns one of these cars, stock or not IMO. Most guys buy an aftermarket HE, I chose to run a couple auxiliary HE's inline with the stock one. Either way, the stock HE is not enough by itself.
It sounds like you're no rookie so you probably dont need my advice but I hope it helps. Goodluck!
I have the 77mm fsp. The one problem I have and that is at the 1-2 upshift, if the rpms land between 1.8-2k and the throttle is at 30% there is a surge. I have had the 77mm fsp for a few months now and about 6-8k miles which, if you couldnt tell, means I drive a ton (18k miles in the 8 months I've owned the car) and I have no issues driving every day. I also have a new tune waiting at home that may solve the issue. The FSP is fun and I'll most likely never go back to a clutched pulley.
The HE issue is definitely something that needs to be addressed along with the pump for anyone who owns one of these cars, stock or not IMO. Most guys buy an aftermarket HE, I chose to run a couple auxiliary HE's inline with the stock one. Either way, the stock HE is not enough by itself.
It sounds like you're no rookie so you probably dont need my advice but I hope it helps. Goodluck!
08-26-2015, 04:26 PM
#48
Senior Member
08-26-2015, 05:38 PM
#49
I had two problems with the FSP that were never solved until I switched back to a clutched pulley.
1 - My WOT was lean (~12.5-13.0 AFR) and BIP dissolved before I could have that resolved.
2 - My rear tires started to let go a lot faster than I have ever experienced. 1st and 2nd was wheelspin galore from idle to shift
1 - My WOT was lean (~12.5-13.0 AFR) and BIP dissolved before I could have that resolved.
2 - My rear tires started to let go a lot faster than I have ever experienced. 1st and 2nd was wheelspin galore from idle to shift
08-26-2015, 06:31 PM
#50
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