K-MAC rear bushings installed. My first impressions.
06-07-2014, 12:58 PM
#51
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E55, GLS450, GL63, GLE350
I was thinking of getting a set for the family truckster, GL450, but F that! I don't want to spend $1,000 for a front and rear kit, $500+ for an install and alignment, and have it fail or leave my family in danger. I'll just deal with the tire issues.
06-07-2014, 02:53 PM
#52
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Thread Starter
The rear of your vehicle has eccentrics for camber adjustment from the factory. The fronts however are only adjustable with bolt kits that off very limited correction. Unless you have your vehicle slammed you should be alright. Factory median for the rear camber is -2 degrees. If at the factory ride height you can adjust to about-0.5 degrees.
06-07-2014, 02:55 PM
#53
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I recently purchased a rear camber kit from K-mac even with the issues people have been having with them. I recieved my package within a very timely maner and everything looked like it was very good quality. I installed them on my 2004 E55 asap. Did the full install and alignment myself (Id like to add that Ive been a Mercedes service tech for 9 years). everything went great...or so I thought. Driving home with my new bushings for the first time, I rear suspension seemed very very stiff even driving in comfort suspension mode. Hmm... maybe something got out of wack with the rear shock dampening. Hooked up star diag...no codes, valves actuate correctly. Raised the car on a lift and inspected and found that the outer cups were being crushed between the control arm and the subframe, causing the rear suspension to basically lock up and not move much at all. I contacted kevin at K-mac immediatly. He told me I overtightened them, even though to torqued them to the recommended 122Nm(90Ft lbs) as stated in the instructions. I was advised to remove the cup washers, straighten them out, and only torque them to 60Ft. lbs this time. Did this as he said and same problem. the issue is that on the airmatic lower control arms, the inside of the control arm has a narrow point that is hitting the cup washer and crushing it up against the subframe. He then advisied me to remove material/ thin out the spot on the cup washer that is hitting the control arm. At this point I just requested my money back as I am not going to continue modifying something that should have been a bolt-up kit. Kevin responded and refunded me the $480 for the kit and said normally they would want the bushings back for inspection, but in this situation, that was not neccessary and that the cup washers are going to be changed to a thinner, stronger stainless steel and that he will send me a pair when they are done. I will happily try to see if the thinner washers will resolve the issue. I would like for anyone who says they have had no issues with their rear kits to chime in and provide pics so we can help kevin to design these bushings to work as they should.
My kit came with two sets of washers. One for airmatic, and the other for steel spring suspension. I did not have any issues with the cup washers.
06-07-2014, 03:03 PM
#54
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2004 E55, 2003 IS300
Thats odd. My kit came with one set of cup washers. They were the grooved gold colored ones. Kevin said they are going to make the cup washers out of stainless steel and thinner and he is going to send me a set.
06-07-2014, 04:06 PM
#56
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06-07-2014, 05:13 PM
#58
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Yes, please take some pics of the washers when you have a chance. I work with AMG55tech, have seen his issue, and cannot see how the washers can possibly work. The diameter is so large, and the control arm tapers unevenly that it has to be grinding on the arm. The arm has a machined diameter where the center of the stock bushing rides, maybe 2" across. The gold washer is what, 3 inches? It just cannot be. 
06-07-2014, 06:10 PM
#59
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Thread Starter
What direction did you face the cupped washers? Cup inboard to the subframe, or outboard to the control arm? I placed the cup inwards towards the subframe.
06-08-2014, 03:04 AM
#60
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W211 – Rear bushings and cup washer over tightening.
. . . . . damn. What with the kudos, compliments coming in re the upgrades over the last year and the invention of the fail safe, tab lock system, thought surely now absolutely bullet proof.
(oh how one wishes the OEM industry was more condescending to the problems they sometimes create for the aftermarket industry).
The concern, emphasis till now has always been not the over tightening, but the opposite.
Steel arms are on all models and not a issue, except airmatic which are alloy. Immediately on receiving AMG55TECH feedback have emphasized on rear instructions to torque to standard engineering specs (60ft/lbs 81Nm) for these 12mm diameter bolts.
Then (having in-house manufacture) redesigned, retooled with washer depth of cup reduced to cater for inadvertent over tightening. At the same time cup material strength upgraded to stainless steel.
AMG55TECH will receive these new cup washers by end of this coming week.
Re: E55 Greasemonkey quote: “seen his issue. . . . cannot see how washers can possibly work”.
- As above, the depth of cup now reduced. So if over tightened cannot come in contact with subframe.
- Re quote: “Stock bushings rides 2 inches “across”. . . . “gold washer 3 inches” “
Actual dimensions are:
Gold washer 2 1/4”
Inside diameter 1 7/16”
K-Mac center steel bush 1 3/8”
As can be seen therefore both inside the cup washer diameter and importantly K-MAC center steel bush are well within the stock bush criteria. - Quote: "cup washer grinding on arm":
The stationary knurled exterior cup surface faces arm while the interior cup surface is in contact with the elastomer bush. This is established industry principle of how a elastomer bush functions.
06-08-2014, 12:54 PM
#61
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Thank you kmac for helping work through this issue, I am sorry I failed to mention in my previous post how you have been in contact with AMG55TECH and have stood behind your product 100%. I am sure the issue will get resolved.
06-08-2014, 02:01 PM
#62
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The Vendor is doing a very good job here and should be commended.
Q: What is the Part number for 2004 W211 (E55) w/ steel suspension? The catalog only lists Airmatic, but two part numbers
(Coil-overs using E350 Lower Control Arms)
Q: What is the Part number for 2004 W211 (E55) w/ steel suspension? The catalog only lists Airmatic, but two part numbers
(Coil-overs using E350 Lower Control Arms)
06-10-2014, 03:04 AM
#64
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Firstly, thanks for your encouragement.... Much appreciated!
Manufacturing the World's largest range of Camber, Caster, Toe adjuster kits - it is all about constantly reaching out, breaking new ground, going where other companies have not been and along with this of course there can be both stimulation and controversy!!
W211 Part number for Airmatic rear 502526-1
Non Airmatic rear part number is 502526
07-15-2014, 12:42 PM
#66
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Only for the front kit on mbworld as far as I know...
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-airmatic.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-airmatic.html
07-15-2014, 03:10 PM
#67
MBWorld Fanatic!
I'm on the fence about putting in my rear K-mac bushings. They look perfect for steel A-arms, but it just doesn't look like enough surface area for biting into aluminum. Is anyone running these successfully in an E55 or CLS55 with airmatic?
07-16-2014, 06:56 AM
#68
MBWorld Fanatic!
Well, after 5K on the rear K-Mac bushings....They are holding up just fine! I have not had any nuts loosening up. There has been no extreme deflection either. I did another alignment 1K ago after replacing the lower ball joints, and inner tie rods. The rear is holding strong at the set camber and toe.
So your still happy, and still running these in the E55? All I want is one person to say they can't strip the teeth in the aluminum with hard launches and I'll slap mine in. Otherwise I will redesign them with more toothed surface area myself.
07-16-2014, 10:05 AM
#69
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Installed here for a month with no issues. I need to get the rest of the install guide done.
07-16-2014, 10:20 AM
#70
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I found a local shop that seems more than willing to tackle the K-MAC install for me.... I just need a clear set of step-by-step instructions for him to work from. He's not a Mercedes mechanic and doesn't have STAR so if there are going to be "surprises" along the way I'd like to find out before my car is taken apart on a lift....!!!!
-G
07-16-2014, 06:10 PM
#71
Super Member
Firstly, thanks for your encouragement.... Much appreciated!
Manufacturing the World's largest range of Camber, Caster, Toe adjuster kits - it is all about constantly reaching out, breaking new ground, going where other companies have not been and along with this of course there can be both stimulation and controversy!!
W211 Part number for Airmatic rear 502526-1
Non Airmatic rear part number is 502526
Manufacturing the World's largest range of Camber, Caster, Toe adjuster kits - it is all about constantly reaching out, breaking new ground, going where other companies have not been and along with this of course there can be both stimulation and controversy!!
W211 Part number for Airmatic rear 502526-1
Non Airmatic rear part number is 502526
Thank you Kevin for sending me a replacement front set last month, they arrived to me in England within a couple of days, great service.
Paul
07-16-2014, 06:18 PM
#72
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Please DO!!!!
I found a local shop that seems more than willing to tackle the K-MAC install for me.... I just need a clear set of step-by-step instructions for him to work from. He's not a Mercedes mechanic and doesn't have STAR so if there are going to be "surprises" along the way I'd like to find out before my car is taken apart on a lift....!!!!
-G
I found a local shop that seems more than willing to tackle the K-MAC install for me.... I just need a clear set of step-by-step instructions for him to work from. He's not a Mercedes mechanic and doesn't have STAR so if there are going to be "surprises" along the way I'd like to find out before my car is taken apart on a lift....!!!!
-G
07-17-2014, 07:36 PM
#73
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I plan on unplugging the pump and loosening a fitting to let the pressure out just to make it easier to get the bolt in. Any reason I shouldn't? It looks like I'll need to drop the exhaust down too.
07-17-2014, 07:44 PM
#74
Super Member
You can only release air by fooling the sensors or using STAR tool, no need to drop the exhaust
07-17-2014, 09:18 PM
#75
MBWorld Fanatic!
In order to get a socket on the inward mounting bolts for the rear toe arms, you will need to move the exhaust. I disconnected mine from the rear hangers and just let it hang.
