To be or not to be converted.
I have been a relatively dedicated BMW 5 series owner for a while and have invested a chunk of time getting proficient with the various diagnostic / coding tools, BMWcentric common fixes, various performance tweaks and now have quite a lot of special tools as well.
However I drove an ex Japan 2007 E63 AMG with 31,000 Ks on it yesterday and my eyeballs have not yet popped back into their sockets, such an hilariously fast car!
I know there is always something to fix on the BMWs. I wonder if I might get an honest heads up on what owning an E63 AMG could be like over 3-4 years.
Here’s a list of issues that I have scraped up, would someone mind crossing out the ones not related to these cars? Any suggestions on other things to look for would be appreciated as well.
Engine:
- Engine V-belt tensioners and dampeners
- Engine mounts – there does seem to be a slight dead spot in the steering (not sure if these are rack and pinion or not)
- Worn piston rings
- Worn valve stem seals
- Head gasket failure
- Leaking camshaft covers and resultant engine/transmission wiring loom contamination.
- Worn camshafts and camshaft followers
- O2 sensors
- CPS sensors
- MAF sensors
- ECU issues
- Ignition coil issues
- Voltage regulator, charging and battery issues
- Fuel pump issues
- Coolant expansion tank
- Auxiliary water pump issues
Transmission:
- Transmission mounts
- Fluid and filters will need changing – I notice there is a little drive train slack during acceleration / deceleration transitions.
- Transmission plug leak
Suspension:
- Control arm bushes
- Leaking steering damper
- Steering linkages
- Power steering issues
- Lower ball joints
- Spring breakages
- Air bladder failure
- Worn / squeaking rear struts
- Maintaining wheel alignment issues
Body:
- Poor quality / easily damaged paint
- Rust in bottom corners of the rear doors
Interior:
- Air conditioning issues
- Heater stepper motors
- Stereo issues
- Electric sunroof issues
- Electric window issues
- Electric door lock issues
- Dashboard lights and instrument issues
- Software errors causing multiple problems including speedometer and fuel gauge inaccuracy and engine shut-off control in an emergency situation.
So if I went E63 then replace the head bolts and maybe cams while I am at it? I see the combination of cast nodular iron camshafts and 9310 grade steel valve lifters contributes to premature cam wear and a class action lawsuit was raised on this issue. Any thing to worry about really?
@stockc43 if you were to start from scratch with a e55 what would you do and what would the results really be?

Is there any chance I can ever get either the 55 or 63 handling close to an M?
Lots of great twisty roads here in NZ...
So if I went E63 then replace the head bolts and maybe cams while I am at it? I see the combination of cast nodular iron camshafts and 9310 grade steel valve lifters contributes to premature cam wear and a class action lawsuit was raised on this issue. Any thing to worry about really?
@stockc43 if you were to start from scratch with a e55 what would you do and what would the results really be?

Is there any chance I can ever get either the 55 or 63 handling close to an M?
Lots of great twisty roads here in NZ...
As far as e55s most people usually replace the inter cooler pump and the heat exchanger to keep IAT temps down, which can become an issue if you pulley/tune the car.
Both cars can have airmatic issues with air shocks leaking and things of that sort, that's really the only other major issues with the cars that I can think of short of just regular maintenance items.
As far as handling you can get a lowering module to lower the car but nothing as far as changing the stiffness other than the stock settings. You could go to a coilover set up and junk the airmatic set up completely and that would give you a lot more ride adjustments.
Sticking with a low milage example for 40-50, maybe with a few tride and true mods, sounds like the minimum fuss option.
Handling wise, which is going to be more fun under brakes, through the twisty stuff, 55 or 63?
If you are driving a 500 + hp e55 with a nice wheel & suspension setup, you'll do better in the twisties than most of the competition (great brakes, easy to control, and tons of power coming out of corners )...The only thing I hate on the cars is the traction control / ESP - which is way to conservative from the factory....Drive without the ESP if you know what you are doing, but be careful.
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I know this is not a typical question but will a pullied/tuned 55 loose a chunk of economy and more importantly range on the straight bits before the fun stuff. I ask as it can often be a stress finding 98 at 03:00 on a Sunday during long trips in NZ.
My recommendation is E55 all the way! I don't think you'll regret it.
I know this is not a typical question but will a pullied/tuned 55 loose a chunk of economy and more importantly range on the straight bits before the fun stuff. I ask as it can often be a stress finding 98 at 03:00 on a Sunday during long trips in NZ.
The M113 ML55 doesn't seem to have any major gremlins, is that right?
All I would be missing out on is the 7 speed trans, the paddle sifters and the wonderful opportunity to replace my cams lifters and head bolts.
Fair summary?
. You can retrofit paddle shifters, e63 cluster, bumpers, lights etc to make the car feel/look newer if you like. Btw I have a 220,000 mile beater ML55 for sale if your interested in a ml
Realistically when you buy an E63 you really don't have to do **** to the car but put gas and drive. The E55, if I were to buy another one with low miles I would really consider spending $5-7k (parts only) in upgrade to the car prior to even driving. Cooling mods and headers with a tune.
Realistically when you buy an E63 you really don't have to do **** to the car but put gas and drive. The E55, if I were to buy another one with low miles I would really consider spending $5-7k (parts only) in upgrade to the car prior to even driving. Cooling mods and headers with a tune.
get in touch with member Shardul and change your supercharger clutch for cheap also why don't you just change your intercooler pump with the Bosch 010.... Naturally aspirated motor has head bolt problems
Last edited by MAN55LE; May 26, 2014 at 07:08 PM.
TBH I am a little burnt out from all the work I put into the BMW, now it is perfect I am looking around.
I know.As much as I do enjoy modding cars (ex mechanic, mostly performance work) I would really like a fun and slightly crazy DD for a while.
If all I have to do with a E63 to have piece of mind is replace the head bolts, cams and lifters that might be the ticket. Or I could just get a warranty and enjoy, preferably one that covers the Airmatic suspension as well.
Are there aftermarket cams and lifters that don't have the ware issues BTW?




In summary, if you don't want to mod, get the E63. If you want to mod (and all the fun that comes with it), get the E55. I just recently got my E63 and had an opportunity to drive and research both - the E63 is much more refined. The E55 is more raw.
The brake feel on the E63 is significantly better IMO over the E55. The 7sp tranny is much smoother. Mine is used for family weekend outings and we love it.
I don't care for mileage as much as documented maintenance. Get the one that has proof that the former owner(s) took care of the car. It really reduces the perceived cost of owning a used German vehicle.
@stockC43 if you were to run a list for the E55 as per above what would it look like?
For those thinking offering me their cars, NZ is New Zealand
We even drive on the wrong side of the road down here so importing is not an option either... thanks though.

. The same ones that are in use since 1990!!!!!! I can't hate on AMG and what they did because in '04 ain't no one stock smoking my **** off the line.Realistically if I were to spend 1/2 of what some guys do here I'd get the E63, change the head bolts, throw a stage 1 weistec s/c (THANKS CA), killer chiller with a rear tank, DD.


