Another Battery Light thread ..
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 243
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
'14 F15 M, '06 E55, '20 Highlander, '18 M550
Another Battery Light thread ..
Yes, yes, yes I have searched ad nauseum ! Found a lot of helpful things but the majority I have already done or recently did.
Car is a '06 E55, 92k
The short story .. While getting gas one day the Red light came on, all accessories shut down. Started driving again and it went off. A day or so later it came back, then off.. since then (a few weeks ago) it does this randomly and with absolutely no specific 'trigger'. AC/radio/etc off- still does it. WOT or parked/idle- does it.
I monitored voltage and when 'it' occurs I go from 14.2 down to mid-high 10.
Front and rear batteries are new and good.
Alternator is charging properly.
Regulator was changed approx 1500-2000 miles ago.
Dual battery relay was just changed.
BCM was flashed/updated a couple years back (approx 2k miles).
I have another regulator to swap in, I do plan on swapping it, just for the sake of mindset but looking for any other thoughts...
I Will change the BCM if general consensus leads me there, but would like some reassurance before throwing more good money after bad.
I do also have the dynamic seat pump problem - runs relentlessly for approx a minute during wakeup. Just discovered this and will address but having the car running (electrically) properly first is more a priority ! Not sure if it's relevant, but worth mentioning.
Car is a '06 E55, 92k
The short story .. While getting gas one day the Red light came on, all accessories shut down. Started driving again and it went off. A day or so later it came back, then off.. since then (a few weeks ago) it does this randomly and with absolutely no specific 'trigger'. AC/radio/etc off- still does it. WOT or parked/idle- does it.
I monitored voltage and when 'it' occurs I go from 14.2 down to mid-high 10.
Front and rear batteries are new and good.
Alternator is charging properly.
Regulator was changed approx 1500-2000 miles ago.
Dual battery relay was just changed.
BCM was flashed/updated a couple years back (approx 2k miles).
I have another regulator to swap in, I do plan on swapping it, just for the sake of mindset but looking for any other thoughts...
I Will change the BCM if general consensus leads me there, but would like some reassurance before throwing more good money after bad.
I do also have the dynamic seat pump problem - runs relentlessly for approx a minute during wakeup. Just discovered this and will address but having the car running (electrically) properly first is more a priority ! Not sure if it's relevant, but worth mentioning.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,790
Likes: 109
From: DownEast Maine
CLS 55 AMG E500 ML320
Always fix known problems first. It's surprising how often it leads you were you need to go. 10/11 volts is really low for a good battery. Mine was holding 13 when I forgot to plug the VR back in.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,556
Likes: 15
From: Canada
07 E63 + 07 CLK63CAB
Off hand I would look again at the batteries, mainly the rear battery for voltage when the car is off, 12.5-12.7V would signify a fully charged bat. Also just as important is the terminal connections, remove and clean both the bat term and the cable term and assure that when you retighten them try to twist the terminal, as sometimes they are tight but the terminal is smaller than normal and the cable can twist with minor force, a bad connection will cause grief. As far as you say you have a good battery but I had an issue years ago where the terminal connection inside of the battery from the plates to the terminal were broken and only one plate was connected, well when that failed the spark that was created when trying to start the car exploded the battery. For piece of mind put another main battery in and retest.
Agree with StarvingArtist it takes a lot to get a good battery to 10volts, was this with or without the car running?
Check the connections. Was the changed out regulator a Bosch unit? or aftermarket?
Are you getting the voltage readings off the dash or directly off the battery, off the battery terminals will assist with the diagnosis.
Agree with StarvingArtist it takes a lot to get a good battery to 10volts, was this with or without the car running?
Check the connections. Was the changed out regulator a Bosch unit? or aftermarket?
Are you getting the voltage readings off the dash or directly off the battery, off the battery terminals will assist with the diagnosis.
Last edited by Critter; Jul 29, 2014 at 10:06 AM.
PLATINUM SPONSOR
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,834
Likes: 65
From: Texas
2003 CL55
If the regulator has not been changed yet, then you will be suprised at how low the copper arms will be worn VS the new one.
__________________
E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 243
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
'14 F15 M, '06 E55, '20 Highlander, '18 M550
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 243
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
'14 F15 M, '06 E55, '20 Highlander, '18 M550
Off hand I would look again at the batteries, mainly the rear battery for voltage when the car is off, 12.5-12.7V would signify a fully charged bat. Also just as important is the terminal connections, remove and clean both the bat term and the cable term and assure that when you retighten them try to twist the terminal, as sometimes they are tight but the terminal is smaller than normal and the cable can twist with minor force, a bad connection will cause grief. As far as you say you have a good battery but I had an issue years ago where the terminal connection inside of the battery from the plates to the terminal were broken and only one plate was connected, well when that failed the spark that was created when trying to start the car exploded the battery. For piece of mind put another main battery in and retest.
Agree with StarvingArtist it takes a lot to get a good battery to 10volts, was this with or without the car running?
Check the connections. Was the changed out regulator a Bosch unit? or aftermarket?
Are you getting the voltage readings off the dash or directly off the battery, off the battery terminals will assist with the diagnosis.
Agree with StarvingArtist it takes a lot to get a good battery to 10volts, was this with or without the car running?
Check the connections. Was the changed out regulator a Bosch unit? or aftermarket?
Are you getting the voltage readings off the dash or directly off the battery, off the battery terminals will assist with the diagnosis.
The drop to the low-mid 10V was on the cluster while running/driving. I am sure I can run a line into the cabin and read from the battery as well.
Unfortunately the regulator that was changed was to a Huco, which recently I found is a bit frowned upon. I have the Bosch replacement here now.
Out of curiosity, where does the cluster actually read voltage from ? Battery, BCM, Alt ?
Trending Topics
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 472
Likes: 5
From: Gainesville, FL: In a garage or in a bar, or a garage with a bar in it.
2005 E55, 2011 Honda Push Mower (21 inch deck bishes)
Get the Bosch regulator in and report back. That's the quickest/cheapest test. You say the alternator tested fine. Unless you pulled the alternator out and brought it in, I wouldn't trust that test, as you yourself say the voltage will be fine one minute and then dip out of nowhere. You could have tested when it was in a "good mood". Good luck man. I had the same issue and it was a combo of the voltage regulator AND the 6 month old front battery I had gotten off amazon. It failed a load test and I was shocked. That's what I get for going with a "cheap" front battery.
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes Teases Updated EQS With Steer-By-Wire and a Yoke
Verdad Gallardo
8 Mercedes Models With Poor Reliability Records
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 243
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
'14 F15 M, '06 E55, '20 Highlander, '18 M550
Get the Bosch regulator in and report back. That's the quickest/cheapest test. You say the alternator tested fine. Unless you pulled the alternator out and brought it in, I wouldn't trust that test, as you yourself say the voltage will be fine one minute and then dip out of nowhere. You could have tested when it was in a "good mood". Good luck man. I had the same issue and it was a combo of the voltage regulator AND the 6 month old front battery I had gotten off amazon. It failed a load test and I was shocked. That's what I get for going with a "cheap" front battery.
You're absolutely right. Both the battery and alt passed load and charging tests, but in vehicle and could have been a few 'good mood' times. Although if it were the alt, wouldn't it be the regulator causing the 'bad mood' ? Just spit balling ..
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 209
Likes: 11
From: New Jersey
'04 E55 AMG
Could you elaborate a bit on this? I just swapped both batteries and after sitting still or in traffic for ~10 minutes, I'll get the battery warning. I'm also experiencing issues with the driver seat base; front height adjustment doesn't seem to work, just clicks and stays at the same height.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 243
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
'14 F15 M, '06 E55, '20 Highlander, '18 M550
Do you really think it is relevant though ? Serious question, no sarcasm intended. Seems like the exact symptoms tbal had here: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...t-working.html but no melted lines/ports/etc that I could find in a brief check. Could I not just pull the pump fuse for the sake of troubleshooting the bigger issue ?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,556
Likes: 15
From: Canada
07 E63 + 07 CLK63CAB
Yes for peace of mind pull the fuse for the seats, that being said if that was the issue when the battery was pulled down to 10V and probably 800 amps or whatever your battery is rated for the result of a short then the wires affected would light up like a Christmas tree and there would be copious amount of smoke as in call the fire department.
Try this, shut off all accessories, radio, AC, everything you can, then start the car and measure at the battery the voltage 13.8-14.2V should be in that range.
Now shut off car and turn everything on with the key in the on position but not start the engine, so the radio will be playing, the ac button light on, blower on high, you get my point, now start the car and remeasure the voltage at the battery this reading should be the same as the before reading. If it is below 12.V /whatever increase the rpms of the engine to around 1000rpm and remeasure this time the reading should be 14.1-14.2V if not the regulator is not functioning properly
As also stated if not a Bosch regulator then install one first. MB cars seem to know when a different reg is used and the alt does not respond well.
Try this, shut off all accessories, radio, AC, everything you can, then start the car and measure at the battery the voltage 13.8-14.2V should be in that range.
Now shut off car and turn everything on with the key in the on position but not start the engine, so the radio will be playing, the ac button light on, blower on high, you get my point, now start the car and remeasure the voltage at the battery this reading should be the same as the before reading. If it is below 12.V /whatever increase the rpms of the engine to around 1000rpm and remeasure this time the reading should be 14.1-14.2V if not the regulator is not functioning properly
As also stated if not a Bosch regulator then install one first. MB cars seem to know when a different reg is used and the alt does not respond well.
Last edited by Critter; Jul 30, 2014 at 10:46 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,556
Likes: 15
From: Canada
07 E63 + 07 CLK63CAB
das eighty- voltage regulator, the car is running off the battery as the alt is not supplying power to recharge and sustain the battery. Sitting in traffic at idle you would see the voltage drop off, triggering the warning/fault.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 243
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
'14 F15 M, '06 E55, '20 Highlander, '18 M550
Yes for peace of mind pull the fuse for the seats, that being said if that was the issue when the battery was pulled down to 10V and probably 800 amps or whatever your battery is rated for the result of a short then the wires affected would light up like a Christmas tree and there would be copious amount of smoke as in call the fire department.
Try this, shut off all accessories, radio, AC, everything you can, then start the car and measure at the battery the voltage 13.8-14.2V should be in that range.
Now shut off car and turn everything on with the key in the on position but not start the engine, so the radio will be playing, the ac button light on, blower on high, you get my point, now start the car and remeasure the voltage at the battery this reading should be the same as the before reading. If it is below 12.V /whatever increase the rpms of the engine to around 1000rpm and remeasure this time the reading should be 14.1-14.2V if not the regulator is not functioning properly
As also stated if not a Bosch regulator then install one first. MB cars seem to know when a different reg is used and the alt does not respond well.
Try this, shut off all accessories, radio, AC, everything you can, then start the car and measure at the battery the voltage 13.8-14.2V should be in that range.
Now shut off car and turn everything on with the key in the on position but not start the engine, so the radio will be playing, the ac button light on, blower on high, you get my point, now start the car and remeasure the voltage at the battery this reading should be the same as the before reading. If it is below 12.V /whatever increase the rpms of the engine to around 1000rpm and remeasure this time the reading should be 14.1-14.2V if not the regulator is not functioning properly
As also stated if not a Bosch regulator then install one first. MB cars seem to know when a different reg is used and the alt does not respond well.
I didn't figure it to be relevant, but at my wits end I was willing to give anything consideration !
Yessir, did that and all checked out well. Aside from the 'hiccups' or bad moods it seems to have, it stays pretty steady at 14.1/14.2 both at battery and cluster. Which would seem to lead directly to the regulator not doing a proper job of, well, regulating ! Admittedly I initially dismissed this as it was changed awhile back, but only recently found that it was changed to a sub-par Huco.
We have/use both of these here and everything seemed to pass fine:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....roup_id=682185
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....store&tool=all
STAR and my Maxidas also found nothing odd, so a 'hiccup' just may very well be the proper terminology ! lol
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 209
Likes: 11
From: New Jersey
'04 E55 AMG
Thank you sir, that was my next step. I'm considering doing the alternator too, depends on what I can pick one up for. Two birds, one stone.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 243
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
'14 F15 M, '06 E55, '20 Highlander, '18 M550
The alt is a quite larger task than the regulator. Usually not the issue either. IF you do go that route though .. do Not go with a refurb.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 243
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
'14 F15 M, '06 E55, '20 Highlander, '18 M550
Well, I hope I don't screw myself by saying it, it seems like it was the regulator. Not much a drive today but so far, so good and zero issues.
