Lower dust engine panel. Having raced multiple mile races with the engine cover repeatedly blowing out from under the car ($420 part).......I have decided to remove it. Not knowing it allowed better cooling until I started data logging. On the CLS, the panel covers the front engine area and does not allow air to flow through to the back. I believe it will help with top end speeds do to parachuting effect. We will see this October Mile.

On a side note,I just ran a few hard runs and quickly pulled over to check temps of the air filters. 167 degrees was the hottest it got. Not bad for outside temps of 102.

 

Just out of curiosity, since you log, have you tested running your IATs with a more stock like intake (e.g. tubes directly to front of the car) ? With all the cooling + meth, I am sure your IATs are great, just wondering how they would not be better if you were not using a ram air style setup.

 

reread my posts a bit slower you'll see I was trying to help and point out flaws in your setup that are very similar to my past exp w/a better designed Scorpion HAI, I wasn't intending to ruffle your feathers ya 10 yrs ago I had a 430 & said it was a 500 I was young and stupid what can I say what's your excuse for being the way you are now

this quote was part of what you missed

Dynoing w/out filters on that setup will remove any/all restrictions and give you heavily skewed incorrect padded dyno numbers.. Adding 109 & Meth are purely crutches that pad that dyno anothe 50 odd whp.. You want to brag about it being a beast? Put filters on and redyno EVEN W/HOOD OPEN on pump 91-93 octane at best EVEN running meth you wont see 600 anything.. Then shut the hood as you'd obviously want to see how this air intake works when NOT being manipulated to show bias results w/NO filters and hood open..

PS another kat did something very similar on an sl65, removed the intakes intirely no filters just bare turbo inlets on tune only 65.. Guess what happened? He claimed he gained 90-100 whp by only doing that modification w/dyno proof posted, ran while hood was open. Well being the genius I am I told em to try driving it around and see how that new 100 whp felt? Or dyno w/hood closed well he NEVER replied back or ever brought it up again as these type of intakes don't work w/hood closed.. But hell prove me wrong and go run a 10.8x at 129+ mph like my friend Sal URNXT did in his much less modded sl55 etc (he made 600 whp and backed it up w/hood closed)

Edit: I can't be the ONLY 1 here that dynos w/my air filters on?? W/91 pump Lol... The hood closed ONLY applies to Hot Air Intake setups as you MUST want to know what it's going to do similar to running on the street etc (your meth and extensive extra heat exchanger setup should surely be able to compensate for at least (1) dyno run w/filters on & hood closed right?

And yes I have dynoed in a hotter temps than 100 degrees, TX isn't the only place in world that sees 100 degrees ambient.. But guess what? There's a special correction factor made just for these occassions called SAE Corrected #'s using this would correct for your 100 deg temps, you didn't show if your #'s were SAE corrected or what smoothing rate was set to 0-5? on your graphs? etc..

 

The graph he posted himself shows SAE correction and smoothing set to 5. So it is corrected for temps etc

 

Excellent, I didn't see it thnx.. That totally negates the 100 degree handicap... Esp w/meth cooling temps even further.. IE all else being the same this setup wouldn't dyno any higher in 77 degree ambient per SAE correction standards etc etc..

Edit: Actually Adding Meth to further cool the 100 deg ambient temps using SAE CF Smoothing set to 5, will pad the numbers even higher IE the dyno CF thinks it's seeing 100 deg iat's and correcting to 77 degrees standard, add the meth and this dyno was correcting iat's to below 77 degrees.. IE padded beyond SAE

 

Reread your "good luck on that" comment. How in the hell else could one take that? Besides, it's the INTERNET. Everybody can be a tough guy without getting a broken jaw.

Nothing. You're still a pr*ck 10 yrs later.


no sh*t, sherlock. That's my point with cooler temps and Q16 fuel. Those seem to be the common denominators for most M113K dyno numbers given. Numbers that I'm comparing to. Sinking in yet? Take your time. I know it might take a while.


Crutches? Dual pullies creates a lot of heat with our engines. Meth is a no brainer. 109 is extreme? Tunes near properties of E85. I'm putting near 250 more horsepower to the wheels over factory. What in the ***** do think I should be doing to get it? lol

You are a good example why some mothers eat their young

SAE, no corrections. No smoothing was active. Dyno used was from Dallas Performance.

 

Sorry, I talked to Chris @ Dallas Performance. No corrections were active. Besides, how do you know what perimeters were used if they set the program? lol. Hang on someone else's nut sack. Never mind, you guys are a perfect match.

 

Hmm now you wanna break my jaw? Lol you get that bent over someone not gushing blindly over your posts? Hit me up pm if you wanna discuss my jaw dislocation further... Funny Ahmad & your post w/dyno shows CF set to 5.. Read up bit before you black out getting so angry trying to figure out what that means..

 

Lol advice from a guy welded to his dyno operators sack.. You don't even know the basics
Sure you don't wanna rephrase that? Your posted dyno CLEARLY shows CF set to 5

 

Sure. Let me know when you make it to Texas.

I'm not angry. Just trying to make a point. I will talk to someone else @ Dallas Performance tomorrow. If it was corrected, I will find out. Simple.

Stop getting excited. It's like the special Olympics. You might get a medal. ......but you are still "special" in the end.

 

I don't know what is worse....... Blacknutz and The*****er trying to call me out or the fact I don't know how to read a dyno. lol. SMOOTHING is used to smooth out the graph for irregularities. 5 is the most accurate to environment and 0 is the highest readings based on best case calculations.

So....back to my original statement. No corrections to my dyno. Shove it.

 

Hey assclown.....research it yet? lol

 

How about you, bro? Want to add more bullsh*t assumptions?

 

Is english your 2nd language? Even if it is? Your grasp of SAE CF @ 5 is beyond help... But I'll post this again hoping it helps you..
Your dyno clearly lists using SAE CF 5...
Edit: You owe Ahmad/blkbnz big apology, he didn't call you out whatsoever he merely correctly answered my question (nor did I for that matter, your remedial grasp on SAE CF or dynos, coupled to your irrational angry retorts has led you to make a complete fool of yourself)

 

Take it to the track

 

Holy sh*t, man. It's 0-5 smoothing for SAE. Period. With me so far? 5 being the most accurate with 0 being least accurate. No? Take the tin foil off your head and let me try again. ALL DYNOJETS HAVE SAE SMOOTHING......O-5. You jack offs act like something was adjusted to get 602 rwhp. SAE smoothing 5 actually COSTS YOU HP.

 

Why are you getting so bent out of shape ? Someone tried to point out that your car may be even faster with a different intake setup and you unleash...I'm sure you know all about building fast cars, know everything under the "son" about everything, are Satans right hand man, and could kick everyone's *** with both of your hands tied behind your back....Congrats on your build and dyno sheet, now do everyone a favor and chill out.

 

corrected

Man, it is what it is. Parties in question here always seem to talk sh*t. From blackbenzz questioning Shardul's ported heads to thericker being typical douche bag. You know what, you are right. I will chill. BIP and Shardul did a fantastic job and my venom is taking away from what they accomplished. Sorry, fellas

 

 

Well the thread started ok...

Congrats on the build.

I really wish I could consider this site a valuable technical resource but I see more and more threads being dismantled with bickering. Back to the garage for me, seems like finding out for myself will be the most reliable reference.

 

What is your problem?

The graph YOU posted says exactly what I said above. Doesn't matter what Chris or anybody else says, look at the graph! These are facts. YOU HAVE SAE CORRECTION ON YOUR DYNO SHEET! It is CLEARLY written on the graph in the top right. For those that don't know how to read a dyno CF = CORRECTION FACTOR! And your smoothing is set to 5 (which as you pointed out smoothens out the curve to get rid of spikes and dips in the curve). Did I say anything that isn't true? You just start attacking me for no reason. Relax man, I've used plenty of dynojets in the past and know how to operate them (and have run them myself in the past on several different dynos). You can set the correction factor (many different options) or have it uncorrected. It is very obvious to anyone that can read that the CF is set to SAE in this case. Nothing wrong with using a correction factor, I'm just stating the fact that it is corrected. Tell Chris or whoever dynod your car to send you the graph with CF set to uncorrected and see what happens. Or just send me the dynojet file and I will do it for you. Before you go attacking me again, please learn how to read a dyno so we can have an intellectual conversation

 

See my above post. You are wrong. Smoothing has nothing to do with correction factor. 2 totally different things. Smoothing does not correlate to accuracy. It just "smoothens" out the curve by getting rid of spikes and dips to a certain extent. And just to clarify since you don't know what you're talking about... All dynojets have the OPTION of setting correction factor to SAE. You can choose many different CF's including uncorrected. Sorry you get so mad for me posting facts. If you want I will let you continue to spout BS and not say anything instead of trying to help you learn while you attack me for no reason

 

Say, what a great thread.

If you really want a big number, why not remove the poly-V belt and save some of those pesky ancilliary loses? That will give a good figure.

Alternatively, why not take the engine out and take a flywheel measurement? Then compare that with everyone else's rear wheel figures. That will give an even better figure.

 

You're pissing into the wind trying to help explain this simple fact to him, I've tried nicely multiple times.. I posted this early on page 2
Using this would correct for your 100 deg temps.

 

So basically it 'adds points' then to compensate for the temp, meaning someone who got dyno'd in 70* weather and better conditions might not even hit 600hp corrected. The correction works both ways or am I missing something?