Mr. CVE

I have just purchased a E55
It currently has a 83mm pulley, wrap kit etc STD bottom pulley.
It does NOT have a split system.
a FTP Heat exchanger and bigger pump. plus some other mods etc.

I am reading up a lot of the killer chiller and so on, benefits here and there and what is needed to get the most out of them.

It probably goes okay, but more efficiency could always be gained.

I am not sure how it is all set up at the moment, but I was thinking of doing a
Killer chiller and engine bay tank.

All this talk of what is better and one or the other I was thinking of this process.

blower to heat exchanger ( to knock out most heat ) then killer chiller ( cooler water in, cooler out ) then to engine bay tank, ( tank holds the cool water ) then to blower.
Not sure where the pump will sit in all this.

Is this how it is done ? normally ?

I don't see how this can be an issue if done this way. the HE will help the KC do it's work as the water will be cooler when it comes in.

I also presume if the KC isn't working as hard it may let the rest of the AC system work well as well.

I am open to any suggestions.

I only want to do this once, so want to do it right, and have room for any further mods later on.

Hulk

No HE with the KC, period

Mr. CVE

Thanks for that, Can you please explain why ? I am not being a smart A** but genuinely want to understand the reasoning.

Hulk

The KC will get the iats below amb, if you add a HE you are raising the iats to over amb, counter productive

Mr. CVE

This is where I am unsure that is true.

The KC will get them lower than ambient, this is correct , then it puts that freezing cold water in the tank.
Then that freezing cold water goes through the blower, which will heat it above ambient. Surely even cruising it will heat the water up some amount.
then the HE gets that warmed water and either does no heat exchange, or cools it slightly, then it goes to the KC and freezes up and then back to the tank, ready to go again.

I can understand if it went KC, then HE then blower. That would warm up the freezing water before it got to the heat source ( blower )

But very interested to listen.

Hulk

KC > IC > TANK > back to KC
No HE, it will not work well at all, I have had the KC long enough to know that I will not use a HE as long as I have the KC

black06c230

This. No HE is best. I have mine IC>KC>tank>IC this gives me much better overall cruising temps than KC>IC>tank

Mr. CVE

OK thanks.

OZZYAMG

Hi

Welcome MR. CVE

Yes I would have to think that after the hot coolant comes out of the blower having it go through a heat exchanger BEFORE the killer chiller should offer some better efficiency due to cooler water into the killer chiller and then cooler water out of the killer chiller.

Bit like an air conditioner not having to work as hard on a cooler day versus a very hot day when they lose their efficiency and effectiveness.

Then having the Killer Chiller expel the water into a tank before the blower should give the best results. It would be great having a water tank mounted in the front of the vehicle to take advantage of some fresh air versus having it mounted under the bonnet or in the trunk.

Regards,

OZZYAMG

Mr. CVE

That was another thought, if you had to remove the HE, why not have that area as the tank.

Hulk

You can have a tank made for where the HE would go, a friend of mine did that, holds almost 2 gallons

99lightning

pulley data 63f 133f 68deg rise in temp 178mm pulley my friends car.

stk pulley. 64deg 90deg 26deg my car. this is on a dyno pull temps in the mid 60's both with split intercooler. This is why a killer chiller is so needed on a pulley car.

Mr. CVE

Thanks, the 178mm pulley, what top pulley ?

99lightning

he had a stock pulley on top also a heat exchanger vs my stock heat exchanger. so due to temps his car made 4hp more than mine did on the dyno dynamics.

scoto

I have KC, 2.5 gallon tank under hood, large HE & 2 pumps. My set up is tank-pump-pump-HE-KC. I have a switch that can bypass the HE & find that temps will be cooler 90% of the time with out the HE. The only time I put the HE in line is when ambient temps are under 60 degrees & also when road course racing (20 minute runs). I like the idea of a tank in place of the HE.

Hulk

There you go, HE will make iats higher not like it hasn't been beat to death lol
Also my buddy with the custom tank in place of the HE needed an expansion tank (BMW reservoir) to bleed since the tank is lower.

The only issue I see with the tank in place of the HE is that IF ever you want to add ice to your tank you won't be able to

ginger55k

Just a front tank and split on its own will change this car out of the box, mine is a homemade version, with the increase in volume of water through the intercooler if you get the pipework runs correct you will see a car that can repeatedly WOT and have very good recovery times to your IAT's.

Recently on the dyno my car had 4 very aggressive back to back runs all dyno figures near enough had carbon copy results, other 55's on the day required a longer period of cool down between runs.

It also depends on your location and ambient air temps and what your trying to achieve (drag runs etc), if its for a DD the most i would do is to leave the HE in place and fit a bypass if thats the route your thinking, an AC fault leaves you up sh*t creek without a paddle.

Obviously removing the HE out of the loop in hotter climates makes sense as the KC will be more efficient but then again no fall back if it all goes wrong.

The other thing i would advice is to start data logging and understand how your current system is performing, just a basic SC pulley mod will put another 10 to 20 degrees of heat into the intercooler at WOT and slow down that recovery, data logging shows how fast that hotter than the sun v8 can get when your out on the street playing.

Hulk

Not only ambient temps will affect iats but humidity as well unfortunately, I have seen on very hot humid days which in Florida happens often that the KC will struggle alittle and it would be harder to see 20* below ambient but on other days that it's not as humid iats are much much better, also without the hot sun beaming on your car will make the KC and iats better, all is relative

ginger55k

its chilly across the pond not sure where the OP is located but your comments are very much correct.

Hulk

Yup you guys are cool

Mr. CVE

Thanks guys I am in Melbourne Australia.
I am taking all this on board, and will probably do the tank and split system for now.
Like you suggested I will be getting a feel for the car and the temps with my logger.
and then go from there.
I am shying away a bit from the KC as I like my air con !

ginger55k

Weather in Melbourne similar to the UK, you will not have the same issues as those in the hotter humid climates, however the more aggressive mods increase the heat.

Definitely suggest the tank and split, really does make a difference, the KC if you choose that route should have no effect on your AC system, having 550 bhp always ready to go and repeated WOT is lots of fun, its no good having high dyno figures if it is not sustainable and you will always be battling the heat these cars generate, control the heat release the power

ginger55k

This was my thread on the UK site with a bit of data logging of my front mounted tank and homemade kc system

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/amg-l...g-upgrade.html

and the guy who made it possible

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/amg-l...-tank-pcs.html

Mr. CVE

Thanks Ginger55k, great read.

Gives me a small task list !!

macarena78

Hi. Where can be located a tank for the killer chiller and how can i conect them together?
E55 amg thanks