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IC pump wired to run constant with Ignition power… What does the jury say about this?
I remember a long time ago. People talked about doing this. But, there was some confusion about when the IC pump turns on or if its on all the time?
I was hoping now after some time. This can be cleared up?
Cooling circuit will be split with small reservoir. So, I was hoping to circulate cool water mixed with coolant or some water water and just distilled water, through the supercharger and entire system while in the staging lanes. I can't see why this won't work?
Im thinking off the fuse box and running a relay would be the safest way. Just trying to see if anyone has done it and willing to share the DIY or post a pic.
You can also unpin the wire for the pump from the rear sam , and find a circuit 15 signal from the rear sam, and plug it in. I used a fuse tap to accomplish this. I am about to redo the setup shortly when I install my trunk tank. I will be installing a painless wiring relay controlled fuse block to run the pumps.
Ok this is what I know and did. I thought the same thing but wanted to know when the pump comes on..... and if it did not or crapped out how would I know or not. So.... I spliced in a small led bulb into the pump wiring and mounted it to the left of my steering wheel on the dash and every time the pump turns on, the bulb lights up. Now I can tell you that if I really baby the car it will not turn on at all. But as soon as I put a load on the engine it pops on and will stay on. Every now and then it will turn off but outside temps are also around 25-40 degrees around here so that's to be expected. So basically ....its always on regardless and I have no tune at all.
Ok this is what I know and did. I thought the same thing but wanted to know when the pump comes on..... and if it did not or crapped out how would I know or not. So.... I spliced in a small led bulb into the pump wiring and mounted it to the left of my steering wheel on the dash and every time the pump turns on, the bulb lights up. Now I can tell you that if I really baby the car it will not turn on at all. But as soon as I put a load on the engine it pops on and will stay on. Every now and then it will turn off but outside temps are also around 25-40 degrees around here so that's to be expected. So basically ....its always on regardless and I have no tune at all.
Valulable info… I was thinking it would be something like that.
I want it for one reason alone. And that is to be able to circulate the fluid in the intercooler lines and heat exchanger while waiting to make a pass when I'm at the track. Essentially being able to cool it down so I do not start my run heat soaked.
Also I can extract hot fluid out of the reservoir and fill ice cold coolant, distilled water mix and circulate that cold fluid before a run and really get those IAT down.
This will be my next mod with split cooling and primary cat delate to lower those IAT's, then onto the water injection with a little meth to further cool IAT's and preserve maximum ignition timing advance.
Did the same with mine after installing a 175mm C/P.
Split the cooling with the BMW reservoir and hardwired my new I/C pump to run permanently 'on'. Never had any issues and I could do multiple hard pulls back to back without timing being pulled or S/C shutdown. I raced a BMW 335i JB4 seven times, back to back through to 4th gear each time (obviously hammered the poor ******* each time) and my car never faltered once.
Did the same with mine after installing a 175mm C/P.
Split the cooling with the BMW reservoir and hardwired my new I/C pump to run permanently 'on'. Never had any issues and I could do multiple hard pulls back to back without timing being pulled or S/C shutdown. I raced a BMW 335i JB4 seven times, back to back through to 4th gear each time (obviously hammered the poor ******* each time) and my car never faltered once.
That's what Im talking about.. Could you share how you wired up the pump?
Im thinking tapping into the alternator. But, Im kinda iffy about it.
How do you know timing was not being retarded even slightly? Do you have any data logs about that? I hear timing is retarded after IAT reaches 110 degrees. That's amazing that you can keep your IAT under 110 degrees without using water meth injection. Im guessing you guys were cruising at highway speeds doing runs?
I ran a wire from my I/C pump to my front SAM - can't remember where I connected it (car sold). Yes, my timing must have been retarded to some minor degree - the point I was trying to make was that it was not noticeable during multiple hard pulls. I have data logged my IAT's, but once again, I can't for the life of me remember the figures. I just remember that my IAT recovery was very quick. Nope, I raced the 335i light to light, through 3 sets of lights and then we did another lap because the drivers decided to swop!
I've tried searching but havent found, wheres the fuse for the IC pump and what size is it? But anyway just run a wire from the alternator and put a fuse there.. shouldnt be a biggy?
Guys, there is a lot of misinformation on the IC circuit and there is no real reason to hardwire the pump to run all the time. I did datalogs before and after hard wiring and there was no benefit - just cost, headache, and sloppy wiring (compared to factory).
If you want you IATs cooler, then do the following:
(1) Large tank in trunk (3 - 5 gallons)
(2) Killer chiller or larger HE
(3) Methanol injection if you are OK with the hassle and risks
Guys, there is a lot of misinformation on the IC circuit and there is no real reason to hardwire the pump to run all the time. I did datalogs before and after hard wiring and there was no benefit - just cost, headache, and sloppy wiring (compared to factory).
If you want you IATs cooler, then do the following:
(1) Large tank in trunk (3 - 5 gallons)
(2) Killer chiller or larger HE
(3) Methanol injection if you are OK with the hassle and risks
I agree.But, if you check my original post and my other replies. You might notice, that is not the reason I'm running the pump of ignition power. Thanks for chiming in.
Max- Here's a pic of where I pulled key-on power. Also lets you circulate the fluid with the motor off. This improved my IATs greatly as the pump only seemed to come on when the blower clutch engaged (YMMV):
Max- Here's a pic of where I pulled key-on power. Also lets you circulate the fluid with the motor off. This improved my IATs greatly as the pump only seemed to come on when the blower clutch engaged (YMMV):
Did you route the pump wiring up to that location? Or is the pump wiring already running through there?
Wiring the pump always on will drop AIT a few degrees. If you have a trunk tank it may not make much difference, but for stock setup it will help a little.
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