FSP issues, open to suggestions
#126
New update, I did have a cold start incident after temps dropped to the 40s or 50s, so I am back to waiting 5-10 seconds to start the car now (unless its over 70degress out).
The shift lag fix is still holding well I believe after a log or two with corrections, BIP will have it nailed to perfect.
Hiccup has happened 3 times since I last posted, however unlike before, car corrects itself and keeps going. I have not had to pull over and restart the car since the last map.
I am still suspicious of my fuel system, so today it goes back to the dealer and the whole shebang gets replaced. I will try it out after get the car back and report if any changes before I request a new map from BIP
The shift lag fix is still holding well I believe after a log or two with corrections, BIP will have it nailed to perfect.
Hiccup has happened 3 times since I last posted, however unlike before, car corrects itself and keeps going. I have not had to pull over and restart the car since the last map.
I am still suspicious of my fuel system, so today it goes back to the dealer and the whole shebang gets replaced. I will try it out after get the car back and report if any changes before I request a new map from BIP
#128
New tank is in, waiting on AMG specific pumps and sending units to be installed. No new updates yet.
However I have found something else (Moose I have been cyberstalking your posts a bit). I have had the pungent old fuel smell in my car's AC for a while now. I finally now suspect its coming from my fuel damper (regulator thingy on the fuel rail). Everytime I clean my engine, smell goes away for the day. It usually happens with a low tank full of fuel.
So fuel smell in the front at less than half tank and fuel smell in the rear at more than 3/4 tank (yep my car is one funky machine).
I will change that when I get my car back this weekend. But what I am wondering about....whats the main function of this regulator? Can it get clogged?
I noticed that during the times I have Seafoam in the tank, my car stinks even worse than ever and yet runs better than ever....so I leak more up front with Seafoam. I wonder if that's part of my problem???
Either way I also noticed Moose changed his out right around the time he got the the BIP tune.....
However I have found something else (Moose I have been cyberstalking your posts a bit). I have had the pungent old fuel smell in my car's AC for a while now. I finally now suspect its coming from my fuel damper (regulator thingy on the fuel rail). Everytime I clean my engine, smell goes away for the day. It usually happens with a low tank full of fuel.
So fuel smell in the front at less than half tank and fuel smell in the rear at more than 3/4 tank (yep my car is one funky machine).
I will change that when I get my car back this weekend. But what I am wondering about....whats the main function of this regulator? Can it get clogged?
I noticed that during the times I have Seafoam in the tank, my car stinks even worse than ever and yet runs better than ever....so I leak more up front with Seafoam. I wonder if that's part of my problem???
Either way I also noticed Moose changed his out right around the time he got the the BIP tune.....
#129
Member
Thread Starter
so.... here's my update:
https://mbworld.org/forums/engine-pe...ml#post6387085
It was running great, then it wouldn't... then it would. Then if it was cold enough, it would have some bugs, occasional cel for p0105. I have no doubt that if I had good logging capability, Tony/BIP would've gotten it resolved, I just didn't want to drive back and forth to Atlanta again. I usually only drive it on the weekends and I just wanted to get back to normal. It was an expensive adventure.
And yes, kponti... that fuel damper would drip on mine only when it was cold, when I replaced it I could tell it was only the o-ring that was weeping, just older and dried up a bit I guess. I pulled the throttle body off to get to it, it was pretty easy. But.....I didn't know that thing was there until I'd already replaced all of the injector o-rings because my wrong way of thinking said that was the obvious choice for a fuel leak/smell I couldn't find anywhere else. Oh well....
Happy Friday!
https://mbworld.org/forums/engine-pe...ml#post6387085
It was running great, then it wouldn't... then it would. Then if it was cold enough, it would have some bugs, occasional cel for p0105. I have no doubt that if I had good logging capability, Tony/BIP would've gotten it resolved, I just didn't want to drive back and forth to Atlanta again. I usually only drive it on the weekends and I just wanted to get back to normal. It was an expensive adventure.
And yes, kponti... that fuel damper would drip on mine only when it was cold, when I replaced it I could tell it was only the o-ring that was weeping, just older and dried up a bit I guess. I pulled the throttle body off to get to it, it was pretty easy. But.....I didn't know that thing was there until I'd already replaced all of the injector o-rings because my wrong way of thinking said that was the obvious choice for a fuel leak/smell I couldn't find anywhere else. Oh well....
Happy Friday!
#130
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thanks for your comments.
Let's deconstruct this.
You bought the fsp and a "canned" or " car specific tune" ?
Then you had issues. How did you first attempt to address them with the vendor? Did you do wifi based tune " ride along?" Or did the tuner try sending new canned tunes you uploaded each time?
What logging do you feel would have helped?
In subsequent tune processes, did you pay additional money for more hours of tuning?
What costs made this an expensive experience?
Thank you
Let's deconstruct this.
You bought the fsp and a "canned" or " car specific tune" ?
Then you had issues. How did you first attempt to address them with the vendor? Did you do wifi based tune " ride along?" Or did the tuner try sending new canned tunes you uploaded each time?
What logging do you feel would have helped?
In subsequent tune processes, did you pay additional money for more hours of tuning?
What costs made this an expensive experience?
Thank you
#131
Member
Thread Starter
long story short, .... canned tune and pulley bought from eurocharged, ran like crap, was told it was my resistor, my issue, refund request ignored, etc,etc.... $550 iirc Ended up driving to Atlanta and getting a hotel to let BIP give it a go and dyno tune it...hotel $, dyno tune $599 I think.... Read through from the beginning for more detail, but it's cost me well over $1k and several headaches just to get back to where I was before the adventure began.
Being able to simply log with a wide-band would help, my simple app I use can't read it on this car and I wasn't going to spend more $ to log is all. BIP offered exceptional support and communication, they'll always have my business in the future should I need it.
It'd be worth it for someone more dedicated to the cause, or if you're one of the lucky ones without issue. It's a blast to drive when it's running right!
Being able to simply log with a wide-band would help, my simple app I use can't read it on this car and I wasn't going to spend more $ to log is all. BIP offered exceptional support and communication, they'll always have my business in the future should I need it.
It'd be worth it for someone more dedicated to the cause, or if you're one of the lucky ones without issue. It's a blast to drive when it's running right!
#133
Well I guess its back to me lol. If this doesn't work, I will be switching to the 77mm clutched pulley
#134
I am replacing my radiator, and while it is out, I mounted a BWK and an 83mm fsp. I've been dragging my feet on it, hoping that everything will be resolved by the time I'm done, but I'm unsure at this point.
I would feel a lot better if I had wideband logging capability, but I don't. I'll give it a few more days I guess.
I would feel a lot better if I had wideband logging capability, but I don't. I'll give it a few more days I guess.
#135
Senior Member
#136
#137
Super Member
iTrader: (2)
first sorry to hear you went full circle,,,, this blows... I was so looking forward to fixed pulley - it should be easy .... thanks for trying and the candid feedback,,, I would be open to throwing a few bucks into a group buy/development for someone to tune it correctly.... first we pick a tuner ,,, then get estimate for hours of development,, a number of interested parties ,, a trustworthy tuner or member to control... early adopters hats off !
#138
MBWorld Fanatic!
#142
MBWorld Fanatic!
was answering kponti on his question but on the smaller 83mm clutched pulleys they were breaking because they had weak springs and sometimes had bigger gaps than they were supposed to have, and the stress was too much on those springs, since then version 2 small 83mm clutched pulleys have had a revision and the springs are thicker and the gaps are within spec. On the 77mm clutched sc pulley I haven't seen it so I have no idea what kind of springs are being used, that's something to ask upd.
Let's keep this thread on track for the clutchless pulley
Let's keep this thread on track for the clutchless pulley
#143
long story short, .... canned tune and pulley bought from eurocharged, ran like crap, was told it was my resistor, my issue, refund request ignored, etc,etc.... $550 iirc Ended up driving to Atlanta and getting a hotel to let BIP give it a go and dyno tune it...hotel $, dyno tune $599 I think.... Read through from the beginning for more detail, but it's cost me well over $1k and several headaches just to get back to where I was before the adventure began.
Being able to simply log with a wide-band would help, my simple app I use can't read it on this car and I wasn't going to spend more $ to log is all. BIP offered exceptional support and communication, they'll always have my business in the future should I need it.
It'd be worth it for someone more dedicated to the cause, or if you're one of the lucky ones without issue. It's a blast to drive when it's running right!
Being able to simply log with a wide-band would help, my simple app I use can't read it on this car and I wasn't going to spend more $ to log is all. BIP offered exceptional support and communication, they'll always have my business in the future should I need it.
It'd be worth it for someone more dedicated to the cause, or if you're one of the lucky ones without issue. It's a blast to drive when it's running right!
#146
#148
I am even more sure that there is a mechanical component to this fsp problems not just tune. This could be why some have perfectly working vehicles with it and some don't.
I believe you can tune around that mechanical variation (note: I am not calling it a problem because it might not be). Thas where dataloging comes in.
Some made fun of my Seafoam discovery but ON MY CAR, after 3 different maps to fix my problem, Seafoam is actually what did it!
I am NOT advocating using Seafoam to drive a e55 with an fsp. But after personally building and tuning 450plus rwhp Mustangs in the late 90s and 2000s, 600rwhp plus Supras, etc etc I know something very simple. If it quacks like a duck, most likely it is a duck.
Something in the car's interpretation of what's happening in the fuel system makes the car go into limp mode. When I used a good fuel system cleaner aka Seafoam, the problem alleviated itself.
Since the car's ecu does not know the quality of fuel in the tank, my assessment is that, fuel flow is less restricted with the cleaner and there is no limp mode initiated by the ecu.
Yes I do have a datalogger and gauges. I can see afr and voltages along with almost any other info a normal datalogger can see. The only other time I've seen the car act this way prior to the fsp was when it went into limp mode after a different sensor failure over year back. What most are seeing as FSP problems is simply the car in limp mode
I believe you can tune around that mechanical variation (note: I am not calling it a problem because it might not be). Thas where dataloging comes in.
Some made fun of my Seafoam discovery but ON MY CAR, after 3 different maps to fix my problem, Seafoam is actually what did it!
I am NOT advocating using Seafoam to drive a e55 with an fsp. But after personally building and tuning 450plus rwhp Mustangs in the late 90s and 2000s, 600rwhp plus Supras, etc etc I know something very simple. If it quacks like a duck, most likely it is a duck.
Something in the car's interpretation of what's happening in the fuel system makes the car go into limp mode. When I used a good fuel system cleaner aka Seafoam, the problem alleviated itself.
Since the car's ecu does not know the quality of fuel in the tank, my assessment is that, fuel flow is less restricted with the cleaner and there is no limp mode initiated by the ecu.
Yes I do have a datalogger and gauges. I can see afr and voltages along with almost any other info a normal datalogger can see. The only other time I've seen the car act this way prior to the fsp was when it went into limp mode after a different sensor failure over year back. What most are seeing as FSP problems is simply the car in limp mode
Last edited by kponti; 04-04-2015 at 12:07 PM.
#149
We all know and accept that the E55 has a very temperamental fuel system that needs most of the major components replaced every 60k miles. Is it unreasonable to suggest that some have better performing fuel systems than others due to age and miles and parts replaced?
Well I'm putting my money where my mouth is, after eliminating my fuel system as a potential source of limp modes with fsp. I'll let everyone know and we can go from there.
Well I'm putting my money where my mouth is, after eliminating my fuel system as a potential source of limp modes with fsp. I'll let everyone know and we can go from there.
#150
To Hulk, what left meant about clutched pulleys making more power is that the 84mm clutched pulley equaled tell 168 crank in ratio but made as much power as the 175 to 180 crank pulleys. The 77mm pulley is making over 500rwhp (granted only one car for example so.....) with no other mods. Seems the clutched pulleys make more power per given ratio than their crank counterparts