Need alignment advice for adjustable suspension
05-19-2015, 11:39 AM
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
Need alignment advice for adjustable suspension
So I have the the bc coilovers and the adjustable tow links and control arms from UPD. I just had lowered my car and put new tires on, now I need to get it aligned but MB doesn't even want to touch it.... so I found a performance shop in town that will do it it but they have no idea on what specs because in the rear if it goes positive it rubs so that means it can only go negative for it not to rub... So I'm asking who here has some specs that they did on their car because I want to avoid tires not wearing properly. Thanks
05-19-2015, 11:53 AM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
If what goes positive? Camber? Toe?
What size wheels and tires?
I am perfectly aligned in the front and rear, but with KMAC bushings working with the factory Airmatic. I am STAR lowered + washer method. I use the factory specs. See the link in my sig to the KMAC install thread, which has a picture showing the factory specs on my alignment printout.
What size wheels and tires?
I am perfectly aligned in the front and rear, but with KMAC bushings working with the factory Airmatic. I am STAR lowered + washer method. I use the factory specs. See the link in my sig to the KMAC install thread, which has a picture showing the factory specs on my alignment printout.
05-19-2015, 12:10 PM
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Recommended rear camber range is -1.2° to -2.2° on each side and a cross camber range of -0.5° to 0.5°.
Why is the shop trying to set your camber positive?
Why is the shop trying to set your camber positive?
05-19-2015, 12:19 PM
#5
Super Member
Thread Starter
They are not trying to set it positive as I told them that if they do it rubs... he was just trying to get an idea of what others are using for specs on their car so he could avoid the tire wear it will cause... so I just need some numbers that he can work with but seems like you answered that so that's what I'll tell them.
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05-19-2015, 03:09 PM
#10
05-19-2015, 03:56 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Well I guess I can only tell them to do their best... I just don't understand why MB doesn't want to do the alignment?? it's like ok so what it's on coilovers and that its lowered and that it has adjustable arms n toe links wouldn't it make it easier for them, makes no freaking sense..
05-19-2015, 03:59 PM
#13
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bone stock E55 AMG
Well I guess I can only tell them to do their best... I just don't understand why MB doesn't want to do the alignment?? it's like ok so what it's on coilovers and that its lowered and that it has adjustable arms n toe links wouldn't it make it easier for them, makes no freaking sense..
05-19-2015, 04:00 PM
#14
here is a datasheet from dealer alignment attached in this thread- hope this helps
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ber-bolts.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ber-bolts.html
Last edited by hayseed; 05-19-2015 at 06:41 PM.
05-19-2015, 06:29 PM
#16
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05-19-2015, 06:41 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
he does have specs for the airmatic.. what he was telling me is that it will be different since I'm on coilovers?? I don't know man I'm confused my damn self none of it makes sense.
05-19-2015, 07:02 PM
#20
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bone stock E55 AMG
u can go with oe spec or give more camber...
besides height adjustment, everything else should be same...
worst case, shop can go by w211 model without airmatic...
05-19-2015, 07:10 PM
#21
Super Member
Thread Starter
Yea your right I think I need to source another place... This guy has me very confused, I believe he has no idea what the hell he is talking about.
05-19-2015, 08:21 PM
#22
MBWorld Fanatic!
I have BCRacing coil overs and the UPD control arms and camber kit. I got the UPD kit after I almost took out a 785whp 240sx from a 40mph roll
Negative camber sucks!!!
(There are vids somewhere)
I believe mine are now set 1 degree positive. So that when the car squats, the tires are as flat as can be. So far its working out great
Negative camber sucks!!!(There are vids somewhere)
I believe mine are now set 1 degree positive. So that when the car squats, the tires are as flat as can be. So far its working out great
Last edited by RedBullJnky; 05-19-2015 at 08:28 PM.
05-19-2015, 08:37 PM
#23
Super Member
Thread Starter
I have BCRacing coil overs and the UPD control arms and camber kit. I got the UPD kit after I almost took out a 785whp 240sx from a 40mph roll Negative camber sucks!!!
(There are vids somewhere)
I believe mine are now set 1 degree positive. So that when the car squats, the tires are as flat as can be. So far its working out great
Negative camber sucks!!!(There are vids somewhere)
I believe mine are now set 1 degree positive. So that when the car squats, the tires are as flat as can be. So far its working out great
Damn that's the thing mine can't go positive or otherwise it rubs freaking sucks...
I just want a set of tires to last me at least 10k
For the street and strip I got clks on Hoosiers that I could care less about...
I'm just going to try get my alignment as close as possible to OEM specs.
05-20-2015, 09:21 AM
#24
I have the BC Coilovers and lowered on 19s. I will give you the specs I have used and I got 13-14k miles on my rears before they wore out.
BTW they wore out in the middle, no shoulder wear whatsoever, I was running too much tire pressure (38-39psi). I have since lowered my pressures to 34psi in the rear, hoping I can get 20+k miles out of my Michelin AS3s. Also my FSP definietely increased tire wear until an updated map helped reduce the rears spinning just leaving a light.
The front are still on and trucking. I have about 16k miles in it and they looked like they would go another 20k miles until I hit a pothole on W Bellfort (Houston folks know what I am talking about) and bent and cracked my rim, knocked the alignment on that wheel off slightly and now I have serious shoulder wear in less than a week, waiting for a new rim to arrive (tomorrow).
Here are the specs I used:
Front
Camber -2 to -2.2
Toe +0.08 to +0.1
Castor is maxed out
Rear
Camber -2 to -2.2
Toe +0.22 to +0.24
Castor is not adjustable
BTW they wore out in the middle, no shoulder wear whatsoever, I was running too much tire pressure (38-39psi). I have since lowered my pressures to 34psi in the rear, hoping I can get 20+k miles out of my Michelin AS3s. Also my FSP definietely increased tire wear until an updated map helped reduce the rears spinning just leaving a light.
The front are still on and trucking. I have about 16k miles in it and they looked like they would go another 20k miles until I hit a pothole on W Bellfort (Houston folks know what I am talking about) and bent and cracked my rim, knocked the alignment on that wheel off slightly and now I have serious shoulder wear in less than a week, waiting for a new rim to arrive (tomorrow).
Here are the specs I used:
Front
Camber -2 to -2.2
Toe +0.08 to +0.1
Castor is maxed out
Rear
Camber -2 to -2.2
Toe +0.22 to +0.24
Castor is not adjustable
Last edited by kponti; 05-20-2015 at 01:45 PM. Reason: Messed up the decimal on the rear toe
05-20-2015, 09:53 AM
#25
Super Member
Thread Starter
I have the BC Coilovers and lowered on 19s. I will give you the specs I have used and I got 13-14k miles on my rears before they wore out.
BTW they wore out in the middle, no shoulder wear whatsoever, I was running too much tire pressure (38-39psi). I have since lowered my pressures to 34psi in the rear, hoping I can get 20+k miles out of my Michelin AS3s. Also my FSP definietely increased tire wear until an updated map helped reduce the rears spinning just leaving a light.
The front are still on and trucking. I have about 16k miles in it and they looked like they would go another 20k miles until I hit a pothole on W Bellfort (Houston folks know what I am talking about) and bent and cracked my rim, knocked the alignment on that wheel off slightly and now I have serious shoulder wear in less than a week, waiting for a new rim to arrive (tomorrow).
Here are the specs I used:
Front
Camber -2 to -2.2
Toe +0.08 to +0.1
Castor is maxed out
Rear
Camber -2 to -2.2
Toe +2.2 to +2.4
Castor is not adjustable
BTW they wore out in the middle, no shoulder wear whatsoever, I was running too much tire pressure (38-39psi). I have since lowered my pressures to 34psi in the rear, hoping I can get 20+k miles out of my Michelin AS3s. Also my FSP definietely increased tire wear until an updated map helped reduce the rears spinning just leaving a light.
The front are still on and trucking. I have about 16k miles in it and they looked like they would go another 20k miles until I hit a pothole on W Bellfort (Houston folks know what I am talking about) and bent and cracked my rim, knocked the alignment on that wheel off slightly and now I have serious shoulder wear in less than a week, waiting for a new rim to arrive (tomorrow).
Here are the specs I used:
Front
Camber -2 to -2.2
Toe +0.08 to +0.1
Castor is maxed out
Rear
Camber -2 to -2.2
Toe +2.2 to +2.4
Castor is not adjustable
