Hey guys,

Apologies in advance if this has been discussed before, but I could not find a truly relevant tread.

Here is my dilemma: I just bought a 2005 E55 AMG (my first Benz) and now I am debating whether to get extended warranty for it. The car is in great condition, single-owner from CA, 71k miles. I paid $21K for it, plan on driving (maybe) 5K /year. The extended warranty I found (Carchex) is $7100 for a 4yr/48k miles.

If I were to drive anywhere close to 12k miles/year, I will certainly buy the warranty, but given that I will be driving way less, is it worth it? I can afford the warranty and any repairs, if I have to, just looking for advise on what do you folks (with experience owning an AMG) think.

Just an FYI, i have been driving German cars for over a decade, I have been a BMW and AUDI owner for years and had no warranty on my previous S4 & RS4, but still have warranty on my Q5 and did have warranty on an M3. Overall, I have been about even with cost vs. repairs.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Best,
--Jordan

 

I'm interested in one also. I'm driving about the same amount. But I want something in the 2-3k range. 7 is too high for me. The only thing I'm worried about is the cost so repair the internals of the engine. It's very expensive. IMO if you spent some time on the phone u could find one for 2-3k. I'm on my 7th month and 2k miles with just an oil change so far it's been a cheap car to own...but that can change real fast. I'm prepared to do most of the work myself if something goes out. Good luck

 

I was going to automatically say definitely go for an extended warranty untill I saw the price they want for it! Bit of a gamble really - on one hand you ARE going to be spending a LOT of money on the car over the next 4 years but on the other hand will it exceed 7 or 8 grand and is the money better off in your hands in the meantime?

Also if you intend on modding then that warranty ain't gonna stick come time for a claim...

 

Thanks for the replies so far. I have no intentions of modding, so no issues there. Carchex also offered me a lower-tier policy for 5.5k, which does not cover electronics or suspension, which on the AMG sounds like a possible weak spot.

Maybe someone here has experience with another warranty company?

 

Especially knowing you have experience with german cars, I think 2k max is all I would pay. If your able to diy for little things that do go wrong not worth buying a warranty. Especially with these awesome forums. People are here to help. Very uncommon to see any major catastrophes such as a trans or motor going in these cars unless they've been heavily modified. Knock on wood, but for reference my 05 was purchased with 76k now has 86k. All original besides evosport stg 2 at around 580hp crank. So far I'm in for under 100$ with oil changes. These cars are surprisingly reliable. My airmatic is original and looking forward to see how much longer it goes for

 

purchased my 05 with 80K on it for 17 and 2 year extended warranty (bumper to bumper) for about 2300. I think it will be worth it especially if you can bring it to a dealer to have it checked out and replace everything that has failed or will fail soon.

shop around... I havent used my warranty yet but will be taking it in soon. Probably for at least an IC pump since my IAT are pretty high.

warranty company is with Penske, and is the Platinum coverage.

 

If your original MB 10 year warranty has already expired, is it even possible to get an extended warranty? My 10yr expired in may and I got the car in june so... Been thinking that if anything airmatic related or worse came up, it would be nice to have the peace of mind with a good warranty.

 

Thank you all for the suggestions. After some additional legwork (so-to speak) I got offered a 3yr/36000 miles 0 deductible bumper-to-bumper plan for $2400. I think I will go with it. For those of you interested, the company is Delta Auto Protect.

 

That's more like it. Well done.

 

That's not bad. Thanks for the tip..

 

I'm no warranty expert, but that premium seems crazy low. What does it cover--or should I ask what doesn't it cover?

I got a MB extended warranty on my old C55 and it was $4K. The car was 3 years old and had 15K miles on it.

 

+1 way too low... I paid $3K 6 years ago when AMG was not expensive to cover by Ext warranty. And when something goes wrong, they don't even cover everything. Just make sure what is cover and some warranty company will require pre-inspection otherwise Not cover because "Existing condition"

If you have a good indy mechanic, I don't think Ext warranty is needed.

 

Is the warranty policy you purchased exclusionary? In other words are there a list of items it does not cover and everything else is covered? Or is it just a list of things that are covered....this latter type of fine print can be deceiving.

Also, would you mind sharing with us which dealer you bought it from? Thanks

 

Yeah, I could not believe the price either, but called a couple of specialized shops in the area and they said the company was easy to deal with. Maybe someone on this forum has dealt with them before? Below I will include as much information as I have so far, I am yet to receive a copy of my actual policy.

Here is an example policy:

https://deltaautoprotect.com/files/sample.contract.php

Here are the details:

PLANiamond Premier
TERM:3 years / 36,000 additional miles
DEDUCTIBLE: $0.00
YEAR: 2005
MAKE: Mercedes-Benz
MODEL: E55 AMG
POLICY PREMIUM: $2,400.00

The guys I spoke with (Steve):

Steve Fields
Account Specialist
Toll Free: (866) 598-5429 Ext. 410
sfields@deltaautoprotect.com
www.DeltaAutoProtect.com

 

So yours is diamond premier? That looks to be one of the more basic coverage policies and not exclusively. Did they give you a quote for the highest coverage policy?

 

From what I see on their website, Diamond Premier is their highest coverage policy. The list of covered components is quite comprehensive (see below). Am I missing something? I do have 30 days to cancel, will do some more digging around to see if there is a catch.

DIAMOND PREMIER covers the following listed components under section IV part A.
1. Gasoline/Diesel Engine: Cylinder block, cylinder head(s) if damage by internally lubricated parts. All internally lubricated parts including: pistons, piston rings and pins, crankshaft and main bearings, connecting rods and rod bearings, camshaft and bearings, pushrods, rocker arms, valves, valve springs, valve seats and guides, lifters, followers, oil pump, timing chain, and gear. Harmonic balancer, dip stick & tube. Valve covers, timing cover, and oil pan if damaged by internally lubricated parts; vacuum pump, engine mounts, Seals and gaskets.
2. Transmission: Transmission case, transfer case, transmission mounts and pan if damage by internally lubricated parts. Internally lubricated parts including: torque converter, vacuum modulator, internal linkage, Seals and gaskets.
3. Electrical: Alternator, voltage regulator, starter motor, starter solenoid, distributor, window regulator, A/C heater blower motor.
4. Cooling: Radiator, radiator fan blade and motor, fan clutch, water pump, Seals and gaskets.
5. Drive Axle: Housing(s) and cover if damage by the following internally lubricated parts: axle shafts, universal joints and yokes, constant velocity shaft or joint or both, wheel bearings/hubs, drive shaft center bearings, supports, propeller shafts, locking hub mechanisms.
6. Brakes: Non - ABS master cylinder, power booster, calipers, wheel cylinders, hydraulic lines and fittings; proportioning valve, backing plates, springs, clips and retainers, self-adjusters, parking brake linkage and cables, Seals and gaskets.
7. Super/Turbo Charger: All internal parts; Housing is covered if damaged by the failure of an internally lubricated moving part, Seals and gaskets.
8. 4x4/AWD: All components in the Differential Assembly and Transfer Case including: Drive Chain, Drive Chain Gears, Planetary Gears, Ring Shift Forks, Bearing, Bushing, Oil Pump Output Shaft, Main Shaft Washers and all other internal lubricated parts, Differential Housing, Axle Shaft, Ring and Pinion, Bearing, Bushing, Washers, Differential Cover, 4 Wheel Drive Actuator, Locking Hubs and all other internal parts contained with the differential assembly, Seals and gaskets.
9. Steering System: Steering box and rack and pinion unit and all their internal lubricated parts including: power steering pump and cylinder, main and intermediate steering shafts and couplings, steering knuckles; pitman arm, idler arm, tie rod ends and drag link, seals and gaskets.
10. Fuel System: Fuel pump, metal fuel injection lines/rails, fuel tank and metal fuel internally lubricated parts including: waste-gate, vanes, shafts and bearings, seals and gaskets.
11. Differential Assembly: (Front and Rear) Differential Housing (if damaged by internally lubricated parts), Axle Shaft, Ring and Pinion, Bearings, Bushings, Washers, all other internal parts contained with the differential assembly, Seals and gaskets.
12. Heater and Air Conditioning: Evaporator, condenser, compressor, compressor clutch, receiver/drier, field coil, accumulator, A/C high/low pressure compressor cutoff switches and heater core, Seals and gaskets.
13. Front Suspension: Upper and lower control arms, control arm shafts and bushings, spindle supports, stabilizer shaft, stabilizer linkage, bushings, ball joints, spindles, wheel bearings, Seals and gaskets.
14. Rear Suspension: Upper and lower control arms, control arm shafts and bushings, spindle supports, stabilizer shaft, stabilizer linkage, bushings, ball joints, spindles, wheel bearings, Seals and gaskets.
15. ABS-Brakes: Wheel Speed Sensors, Hydraulic Pump/Motor Assembly, Pressure Modulator Valve/ Isolation Dump Valve, Accumulator, Seals and gaskets, A.B.S. Master Cylinder, Hydro Boost and Electronic Control Processor, Seals and gaskets.
16. Hi-Tech: Electronic shift control unit; ABS master cylinder, ABS processor, hydraulic pump motor, pressure modulator valve, sensors; temperature control programmer, fuel management controls (including modules and sensors), fuel injector(s), fuel injection pump, ignition management controls(including modules and sensors), ignition coils, wiper motor(s), power window motors, power door locks, power seat motors, automatic temperature control, key-less entry system excluding remote, factory installed GPS Navigation, speed control, electronic level control compressor, Sunroof/Convertible top motors & switches.

 

I wonder if the suspension part includes airmatic shocks. That's what might get you before anything else. The compressor seems to be covered by section 16

 

Even if the warranty didnt cover airmatic shocks, they are not that expensive to replace.
Thats a good price for that warranty above. In my experience with owning three AMGs and two civilian benzes, AMGs arent more expensive to fix when broke.

I think its a hype that premiums are that high for a AMG when in reality regular MBs are just as much $$$ to fix

 

With all 3rd party warranty companies, you have to be aware of few very important factors.
1- Always and ALWAYS read the fine print and their exclusions, as they list creepy items like the following: "the insurer reserve the right to replace the damaged part with a new, used, repaired or refabricated one" which means they will not issue a check to repair, but they will send a part to replace the faulty one which first; Delay your delivery, second; this part if used may have the same fault and your problem will not be fixed!


2- most of warranty companies have to be contacted before sending the car to any garage, and needs to approve the garage. and most shops will not bill warranty companies as they consume lots of their time in correspondent and images.


I personally spent $4500 on MB extended warranty when I bought my pre-owned CLS63 AMG. and its worth every penny as you don't deal with any of the above mentioned crap... so far they replaced one headlight unit and the passenger door handle. that's over $4500 including labor and rental car. and I didn't call anyone other than the my MB dealer.


Bottom line, if you cant buy the warranty from MB, you better keep the money in a saving account that you can withdraw when a repair occur.

 

Very true, which is why I was so weary and initiated this post, but unfortunately MB does not offer anything for a 10 y/o vehicle.

I really appreciate all the feedback I got. Only time will tell if this cheap policy is a winner or a scam. I will post updates, if I have any.

Best,
--Jordan

 

I'm not fully sure why, but the Delta reviews on this site seem almost too positive:
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/autom...o-protect.html


They seem too close together (date wise).
The wording all sounds very similar.
The lack of anything negative is odd.
Almost no typos or horrendous english makes me think its a very small number of people writing them all.


In my experience, people seem to spend way more time going to sites like this in an effort to leave a negative response than a positive one. I'm not sure what credentials you need to be a "verified" user, but I would guess its not much.


It just seems like way too many people took time out of their day to positively review an auto warranty company that was just started in September of 2014 (says BBB).


Maybe they are great. If they are, I would happily sign up. Something doesn't feel right though.

 

I had a similar Dilemma. In fact I just purchased a 2005 E55 with 97k miles 2 weeks ago, and toyed with the idea of an extended warranty, but in the end decided it wasn't worth it. The warranty didn't cover anything but moving parts and I only drive around 3 or 4k miles a year.


I took it in to the dealer and told them to find everything wrong with it and let me know. the bill is about $7k but im strangely comfortable with that. The engine received a clean bill of Health, but after 100k miles, some things needed fixing:


1: Engine/Transmission mounts a little loose (Mounts ruptured and leaking). This was causing a strange vibrating sound under high acceleration at low speeds. The tech said it wasn't a necessary fix, and if I opted not to fix it my car wouldn't explode, just continue to vibrate under heavy acceleration. I authorized the repair anyway. - $1448


2: Service C - $329


3: Left CV joint boot is torn and leaking. This was the only repair the tech said was a big deal because so much torque is going through to the rear axel. It wasn't an emergency though and I would never notice it until it got much worse. I authorized the repair - $1702


4: Replace oil pan gasket (Found oil leak) - Again the tech said its no big deal, its just leaking a tiny amount of oil and wouldn't really cause any problems if I didn't fix it. Just watch my oil levels - I authorized the repair - $1173.


5: Front brake pads. I didn't authorize - $460


6: Alignment. Authorized - $149


7: Spark plugs. Not authorized - $656


8: Rear Diff service. Authorized - $206


9: Rear brake pads. Authorized - $295


10: Brake fluid. Authorized - $172




I was looking around forever for a list of these repair expenses and what to expect when I bought a high mileage E55, hopefully this helps someone else out when making their decision.


Theres 2 ways of looking at the data: It adds up quick and is pretty expensive, or the fact that these are minor issues on a seemingly bulletproof 500 hp 10 year old car. Im not unhappy, it will take me 25 years to put another 100k miles on it. A $7k repair bill every quarter century isn't so bad.

 

Yep, I saw the overwhelmingly positive responses and that also makes me very suspicious. Maybe they are a new company (incorporated in September 2014) which is trying to make a name for itself? Or maybe they are a ponzi scheme, not sure, but I think I will give them a try. Paid with my credit card, so if anything happens and they refuse to honor the contract, I will reverse the charge. Spoke with my card company, they said I can do it any time within 2 years of paying for the service.

I guess only time will tell...

 

Sheesh, some of those repair costs are crazy!


If you have any mechanic skills whatsoever, keep the $2400 and purchase tools (to include the T45 torx bit required to remove the belt tensioner pulley) and a Diagnostic Assistance System (this is the most important tool to own).


Motor and transmission mounts? <$200 plus a 16mm MB motor mount wrench and a few hours of your time.


Plugs and wires? <$200 plus a quality torque wrench, MB spark plug boot removal tool, and an MB spark plug wrench. A few hours of your time.


If the fuel filter/regulator and pumps have not been replaced, do so now and do not attempt to make it to 100,000 miles. (as I learned to my chagrin). <$1000 and a few hours of your time. I have a post on my painful "lesson learned" in the "Technical" portion of this forum.


Replace the pulleys and belts early. Rebuild the supercharger idler pulley ($27) or buy a new one ($540). A few hours of your time.


Other repairs? Search and ask on the forum.


My '05 E55 is awesome but it does require noticeably more attention than my '99 E55.

 

Keep us posted with how it all goes.