The scary thing is, this isn't even making a lot of noise. I just removed the plastic cover that covers this pulley, and there it was. I have a new bearing on the way from Shardul, and as soon as it arrives I'll give it a go. Hopefully it goes as easy as the YouTube video shows. I bought two large hose clamps already. I'll put some tape on the pulley before I put the clamps on so I don't scratch everything up, and hope for the best that the bolt comes out. I'll freeze the bearing, heat the pulley, and hope it slides in as easily as the video shows.

If anyone has any other ideas, I'd appreciate hearing it.

 

4 hours in the frezzer, 1 hour in the oven... Wrap teflon tape in bolt when installing back.

 

Teflon tape on the bolt at re-installation and not Loctite? Why is that?

 

not sure why everyone says to use teflon. maybe because thats what was originally used when built? WIS states to use loctite 243

 

Seems like a lot of us are replacing those bearings lately.. How much was the bearing from shardul? I ordered mine from Ebay yesterday.

 

That´s right Loctite 243 it´s what literature specify...I asked the same cuestion 6 months ago and Shardul recommend using Teflon, so I did...And now I am repeating the same advice as a Parrot...Would be greate to undestand why Teflon?

 

I was actually planning on using Loctite blue, which I think is what 243 is. Red would make it very hard to get apart again should another replacement be needed or if I want to put smaller pulley on the car down the road. I don't know what the reason is for using Teflon tape, but clearly Shardul has forgotten more about these cars than I will ever know.

 

Just a quick update. I replaced the bearing this morning.

Using a 17mm 12 point socket to remove belt tension using the belt tensioner, I removed the belt. I wrapped the clutch housing in Gorilla tape to protect it, and did the hose clamp trick to keep the clutch from spinning when loosening and tightening the bolt. I only needed one hose clamp, because with the Gorilla tape on there I got no slippage on the clamp at all. I tightened the clamp using a 5/16" socket rather than a screwdriver and that was all I needed.

I bought a 15/16" six point combination wrench for this job so I wouldn't strip the bolt with a 12 point wrench. I tried to get the bolt out with just the wrench, but couldn't break it loose. I had purchased a 3 foot long pipe which I slid over the trench, and using the leverage from this very, very easily broke the bolt loose. From hood open to pulley off the car took a total of about 10 minutes.

Once the pulley was off I measured the opening in the face of the pulley where the bearing sits, and cut out a round piece of hardwood to fit accurately within the opening to use to drive out the pulley. The inside spring clip was easily removed with a dedicated set of clip pliers. I laid the round piece of hardwood into the opening of the pulley face, and used a old 1 1/4" socket to use as a sort of extension on top of the hard wood circle. Three quick wacks from a small sledge with the pulley sitting on top of two pieces of 4x4" wood and the old bearing was out. Again, much easier than I had hoped.

I cleaned the inside and outside of the pulley thoroughly using brake clean. The inside cavity of the pulley where the bearing goes into was virtually antiseptic by the time I was done. I had put the new bearing into the freezer two days ago when I received it, and had placed the oven on preheat before going out into the garage this morning. After using brake clean on the pulley I blew it out thoroughly to be sure there was none left in and on the pulley before putting it into the oven. I placed the pulley into the oven for one hour at 200 degrees F. I removed the pulley from the oven, then took the bearing from the freezer and immediately inserted it into the pulley, where it inserted so perfectly and smoothly it almost felt hydraulic as it went in, seating immediately all the way to the bottom of the opening with a gentle thunk. I then re-inserted the spring clip and let it sit for a while to equalize temperatures.

I had noticed when I removed the pulley that the two small locating pins for the pulley washer had sheared off, but in doing a forum search here on MBWorld and reading I quickly learned that this was very common and not a problem at all. The only very small setback I had was that when I tried to put the pulley back on to the supercharger shaft it wouldn't go back on. It appears that I simply didn't wait long enough for the temps to equalize, and the pulley slid on as smoothly as it came off after waiting for 15 more minutes.

I used Loctite blue on the bolt, and after reversing the clamp, tightened the bolt back up, and reinstalled the belt.

Everything now works perfectly. If you need to do this and have concerns, jump in and do it. Take your time, watch the YouTube video, and hopefully read through this to gain confidence. It really is super simple. Thanks to all for your input and help on this and all my other newbie questions. Hopefully this small writeup can help someone else.

 

Good job. They don't want to slid back on. If you rotate the pulley in the process it helps alittle.

 

Looks just like mine.

 

for those who have done the Heating up the S/C pulley in the oven and putting the bearing in freezer method:

how long did you keep the parts in the Oven/Freezer for?

Thanks!

 

My bearing came a few days before I was ready to do the job, so I just put it into the freezer then. It remained in the freezer for a few days. I pre-heated the oven and once it was up to temp I left it in there for one hour. I was just throwing darts on that but it worked out perfectly. Hope this helps.

 

thanks dude!

 

i did a DIY write up on this a few years ago when my bearing went out

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...g-install.html