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Please give me some opinion why the driver side Air Strut knocks when turning the wheel. Any ideas are welcome.
I checked all air strut and they seemed to raise and lower properly. After shocks raised, the car didn't sack after I had key taken the key out. There were no sight of any leakage around the strut.
The knocking sound came around the front driver side so I jacked up the car, took off the wheel and inspected it while having my friend turning the steering wheel left to right repeatedly, vice versa. When the steering wheel is turned the air strut move to front and back (assume that's normal dynamic function). Check with a Stethoscope the strut knocks loudest at the modulator (see pic attached) during turns.
The strut is not on any of the steering axis. It should not move. You may want to check the top mounts and make sure they are tight. If all else fails, remove the struck (it takes maybe 20 minutes) and check steering noise at that point. Use a jack on the LCA to return the suspension to mimic normal driving height with the suspension so it's not at full droop.
It is a knocking or a popping noise? I get a popping/clicking noise when I start to move, start to turn or drive over road changes. MB told me it was the strut but I find nothing wrong. Wonder if you are onto something. The other thread I have been posting on seems to imply it's most likely sway bar, end link or ball joint related. My noise sounds like it comes from up top. Almost as if it's coming from the top of the strut mount.
It is like a moving pendulum - the bottom of the strut swing to front and back direction of the vehicle depends on how we steer the power steering. I will remove the strut to isolate the problem and get write back later today.
Originally Posted by 2000UZJ
The strut is not on any of the steering axis. It should not move. You may want to check the top mounts and make sure they are tight. If all else fails, remove the struck (it takes maybe 20 minutes) and check steering noise at that point. Use a jack on the LCA to return the suspension to mimic normal driving height with the suspension so it's not at full droop.
you sure you don't have a worn bushing or ball joint, possibly in your thrust Arm? I believe if you are getting movement from the Strut, it is because the thrust arm has too much movement.
It doesn't make any noise driving straight or moving. Only when turning the power steering wheel. Noise from bottom.
Originally Posted by RVAE34
It is a knocking or a popping noise? I get a popping/clicking noise when I start to move, start to turn or drive over road changes. MB told me it was the strut but I find nothing wrong. Wonder if you are onto something. The other thread I have been posting on seems to imply it's most likely sway bar, end link or ball joint related. My noise sounds like it comes from up top. Almost as if it's coming from the top of the strut mount.
Will inspect the bushing later today after taking out the strut. Where is the thrust arm located in this suspension system?
/B]
Originally Posted by thtguy
you sure you don't have a worn bushing or ball joint, possibly in your thrust Arm? I believe if you are getting movement from the Strut, it is because the thrust arm has too much movement.
My strut (Arnott) was binding under the boot and making a popping noise when turning slowly and moving - like when parking. I slid the boot down and sprayed the shaft with Wurth grease. It's been quiet for many months now.
check airmatic compressor that's under the driver side fender. the bracket can become bent or rusted, and it'll rattle around under certain conditions.
Dont mean to thread jack , but im looking to replace another drivers strut as i believe my shock in the strut is not dampening and causing the car to drive like a boat at higher speeds. i found one a guy is selling on another forum and he is saying his remanufactured Bilstein is clicking while turning as well. bagman seems to have had a similar issue but just trying to see what else could cause this problem before i blow another $200 on his remanufactured airmatic strut vs a used one.
Last edited by 06cls55amg; May 4, 2016 at 12:35 PM.
off lately the arnott units are have issues with the top mounting bolts sheering off
I can confirm this.
Put new arnott units all round on my E63 and one of the top mounting bolts sheared off after about 6 months. My shop guy claimed they were aluminium, which I find hard to believe. Got a shop to work up a repalcement system which is still working, but you could say not impressed doesn't really cover the sentiment.
Put new arnott units all round on my E63 and one of the top mounting bolts sheared off after about 6 months. My shop guy claimed they were aluminium, which I find hard to believe. Got a shop to work up a repalcement system which is still working, but you could say not impressed doesn't really cover the sentiment.
I believe they have a life time guarantee, why not get a replacement instead of a cobbled together solution? By all accounts this is a very reputable company.
I believe they have a life time guarantee, why not get a replacement instead of a cobbled together solution? By all accounts this is a very reputable company.
Fair question. The reason is that living in the Middle East, a) It's a limited warranty, and b) the price of shipping them to/from Arnott is about the same as buying a new unit, plus the car would be off the road for 3 weeks at least. They may well be reputable, but this episode and a few other issues when dealing with them indicate that reputation and quality are two separate concepts.
I just did that yesterday and the knocking sound went away from the air strut modulator. I disconnect the air strut away from the LCA and the Strut is not swing back and forward - turning the wheel didn't hear any knocking sound coming from the modulator. Turning the wheel causes the lca to slightly shifts front and back in a pendulum motion - that cause the modulator to knock.
Please help me to confirm this - do any of your e55 amg after jacked up the front w/ the tires off - turning the power steering wheel makes the lower inner LCA portion to shift front and back?
Many Thanks
Originally Posted by 2000UZJ
The strut is not on any of the steering axis. It should not move. You may want to check the top mounts and make sure they are tight. If all else fails, remove the struck (it takes maybe 20 minutes) and check steering noise at that point. Use a jack on the LCA to return the suspension to mimic normal driving height with the suspension so it's not at full droop.
Fair question. The reason is that living in the Middle East, a) It's a limited warranty, and b) the price of shipping them to/from Arnott is about the same as buying a new unit, plus the car would be off the road for 3 weeks at least. They may well be reputable, but this episode and a few other issues when dealing with them indicate that reputation and quality are two separate concepts.
Extenuating circumstances for sure, mostly wanted to be sure you knew about the warranty.
Old thread but I just went through this with my new Arnott struts and completely rebuilt front end. After Arnott sent me a second new strut under warranty, it was still making the knocking sound when turning, only on the right side for whatever reason. Long story short, the strut does twist slightly when turning. The screwdriver is pointing the the 2 parts that move, and the source of the noise. The solution is: Lift the car, remove the wheel, release the air pressure from the strut (you'll need star diagnosis or similar scan tool) Remove the lower band clamp for the dust boot on the strut. Slide dust boot up. Pry the plastic seat up from the metal seat pad. Apply grease to the surface (note the gray plastic dust where it was rubbing) Reassemble and enjoy the silence.
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; Jun 7, 2020 at 07:45 PM.
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