How expensive is it to own a used e55
#1
Member
Thread Starter
How expensive is it to own a used e55
The e55's are starting to sink into my price range and thinking about getting a used one as my DD. I currently own a 01 lexus gs430, the parts are expensive but with how reliable my car is, its worth fixing every problem that i have. I am very handy when it comes to cars, and I frequently get my hands dirty when it comes to maintenance. I am ready to go down the long expensive journey of modding the lexus 3uzfe engine and can only imagine how much fun i would have driving a e55 to work everyday. I drive my cars VERY hard and they see redline at least 3 times every time i take them out. I know parts will be a bit more expensive then my current dd. But exactly How expensive? My biggest concern is the engine, if i were to toast one, how much would i be looking at for a used 1? How much are regular maintenance parts like spark plugs and brake pads, sensors ect ect. I cant seem to find much information on google so i was thinking asking the amg owners themselves would net me better results anyways. Also i will be buying the car cash. Thanks guys!
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jylee (07-13-2016)
#2
They aren't that bad.
I just did pads/rotors all the way around for about $550. If you wreck a motor? $2500-3500 for a motor setup that usually comes with a trans. Maybe 2k if you want just the long block with no accessories. Spark plugs? Well, theres 16 of them. But Copper plugs have always done well in all my boosted cars. So thats like $36 for spark plugs? Oil changes are around $75ish with a filter. Wheel bearings are cheap. Biggest crap shoot on these things is the suspension. If you wanted to redo the entire setup, it would be around 2k for all the struts and the air compressor. Etc.
Just find one thats been maintained well and you'll be fine.
Keep in mind my car makes 500+whp, and I daily drive it 70 miles a day, and beat the **** out of it every weekend on the street.
I just did pads/rotors all the way around for about $550. If you wreck a motor? $2500-3500 for a motor setup that usually comes with a trans. Maybe 2k if you want just the long block with no accessories. Spark plugs? Well, theres 16 of them. But Copper plugs have always done well in all my boosted cars. So thats like $36 for spark plugs? Oil changes are around $75ish with a filter. Wheel bearings are cheap. Biggest crap shoot on these things is the suspension. If you wanted to redo the entire setup, it would be around 2k for all the struts and the air compressor. Etc.
Just find one thats been maintained well and you'll be fine.
Keep in mind my car makes 500+whp, and I daily drive it 70 miles a day, and beat the **** out of it every weekend on the street.
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
It's not just the airmatic but the electronics can be problematic if the previous owner didn't take care of or spliced into things. Electronic gremlins on this car can be a nightmare ,be forewarned
#6
That too. People with weird battery/aux issues.
Also, keep extra cash handy for the SBC pump that basically has a timer on it. I would think 3k a year Ave. is a little on the high side, but thats just me.
Also, keep extra cash handy for the SBC pump that basically has a timer on it. I would think 3k a year Ave. is a little on the high side, but thats just me.
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#8
Member
Thread Starter
They aren't that bad.
I just did pads/rotors all the way around for about $550. If you wreck a motor? $2500-3500 for a motor setup that usually comes with a trans. Maybe 2k if you want just the long block with no accessories. Spark plugs? Well, theres 16 of them. But Copper plugs have always done well in all my boosted cars. So thats like $36 for spark plugs? Oil changes are around $75ish with a filter. Wheel bearings are cheap. Biggest crap shoot on these things is the suspension. If you wanted to redo the entire setup, it would be around 2k for all the struts and the air compressor. Etc.
Just find one thats been maintained well and you'll be fine.
Keep in mind my car makes 500+whp, and I daily drive it 70 miles a day, and beat the **** out of it every weekend on the street.
I just did pads/rotors all the way around for about $550. If you wreck a motor? $2500-3500 for a motor setup that usually comes with a trans. Maybe 2k if you want just the long block with no accessories. Spark plugs? Well, theres 16 of them. But Copper plugs have always done well in all my boosted cars. So thats like $36 for spark plugs? Oil changes are around $75ish with a filter. Wheel bearings are cheap. Biggest crap shoot on these things is the suspension. If you wanted to redo the entire setup, it would be around 2k for all the struts and the air compressor. Etc.
Just find one thats been maintained well and you'll be fine.
Keep in mind my car makes 500+whp, and I daily drive it 70 miles a day, and beat the **** out of it every weekend on the street.
#11
Member
I did the coil swap last year. My airmatic was shot. I used BC Racing coils which have a nice, street spring rate. straightforward swap, you do need to buy a set of rear control arms off of a non-airmatic Benz.
#12
If you do the work yourself then it's manageable. "Expensive" is a relative term, so take input keep this in mind.
I work on the car myself, it's a DD, and I'm not pouring money into the car. Regardless, there is no way around the fact that parts are going to be more expensive than a normal domestic or Japanese. That's a given and you have to be ready to pay the premium, all said and done I think you'll find it worth it. The way these cars move is amazing and it definitely won't disappoint from that perspective. This is my experience after less than 1 year:
Purchased in Oct '15, 04 100k, 109K currently
Alternator - $670
Main battery - $200
Airmatic strut - $550
Fuel Tank, pump, & sending unit - Free (Dealer covered)
I work on the car myself, it's a DD, and I'm not pouring money into the car. Regardless, there is no way around the fact that parts are going to be more expensive than a normal domestic or Japanese. That's a given and you have to be ready to pay the premium, all said and done I think you'll find it worth it. The way these cars move is amazing and it definitely won't disappoint from that perspective. This is my experience after less than 1 year:
Purchased in Oct '15, 04 100k, 109K currently
Alternator - $670
Main battery - $200
Airmatic strut - $550
Fuel Tank, pump, & sending unit - Free (Dealer covered)
#13
Member
I've done most everything myself other than big jobs that I don't have time or equipment for.
'06 E55 purchased spring '15 w/157k on it for $13,000
- Airmatic swap to BC coils - $2200 parts/labor
- Idler pulleys - $240 for Billet Aluminum, $550 from Mercedes
"machine gun" door locks. $0 - owners commonly pay Mercedes hundreds for lock mechanisms, it's a simple as spraying Silicone Spray on the lock shaft (drags on the boot)
New Headlights - $470 ($400 for Depo housings, $70 for non-AFS control modules) - Over $2k from dealer, mine were shot internally.
- O-Rings for Oil Filter Housing, leaking - $150 (paid labor on this one)
That's it, I now have 170K on it. Other $$ spent -
Eurocharged Stage 1 - $1100 on half price day, $500 install labor
Resonator Delete - $100
Black Vinyl wrap on roof - $80 (vinyl was free from a guy I know who reps the product)
MoBridge M2.Pro Bluetooth Control - I cannot remember.
Refinished Rims, Powdercoat plenums and paint underhood plastics to match rims - $1100
'06 E55 purchased spring '15 w/157k on it for $13,000
- Airmatic swap to BC coils - $2200 parts/labor
- Idler pulleys - $240 for Billet Aluminum, $550 from Mercedes
"machine gun" door locks. $0 - owners commonly pay Mercedes hundreds for lock mechanisms, it's a simple as spraying Silicone Spray on the lock shaft (drags on the boot)
New Headlights - $470 ($400 for Depo housings, $70 for non-AFS control modules) - Over $2k from dealer, mine were shot internally.
- O-Rings for Oil Filter Housing, leaking - $150 (paid labor on this one)
That's it, I now have 170K on it. Other $$ spent -
Eurocharged Stage 1 - $1100 on half price day, $500 install labor
Resonator Delete - $100
Black Vinyl wrap on roof - $80 (vinyl was free from a guy I know who reps the product)
MoBridge M2.Pro Bluetooth Control - I cannot remember.
Refinished Rims, Powdercoat plenums and paint underhood plastics to match rims - $1100
Last edited by erupert66; 07-07-2016 at 11:15 AM.
#14
Member
Bought mine in 11/2015 w/ 137k miles. Now has 149k miles. Original price: $13,300.
New auxilliary battery and oil change in first month.
New rear tires, Nitto Invos.
Airmatic problems, swapped out for Strutmasters, spring 2016.
Thermostat warnings and brake warnings, new thermostat and new rear brakes and rotors, plus a total Mercedes service B, including four wheel alignment.
Professional detail job to wake up this ten year old paint.
Control arm bushings shot, making a clunking noise. Installed new control arms.
Now control arms and Strutmasters not matching up for correct ride height, so I have to go back to Strutmasters for adjustment. Mechanics that changed the control arms will not own this problem.
12k miles and $4k invested so far after purchase. I know I'm forgetting some other things. Still runs great and is fast and powerful, but I'm hoping to go six months without having to pay for something new.
I keep telling myself that had I bought or leased a new BMW 3 series I would have spent this much already in payments and more in depreciation.
New auxilliary battery and oil change in first month.
New rear tires, Nitto Invos.
Airmatic problems, swapped out for Strutmasters, spring 2016.
Thermostat warnings and brake warnings, new thermostat and new rear brakes and rotors, plus a total Mercedes service B, including four wheel alignment.
Professional detail job to wake up this ten year old paint.
Control arm bushings shot, making a clunking noise. Installed new control arms.
Now control arms and Strutmasters not matching up for correct ride height, so I have to go back to Strutmasters for adjustment. Mechanics that changed the control arms will not own this problem.
12k miles and $4k invested so far after purchase. I know I'm forgetting some other things. Still runs great and is fast and powerful, but I'm hoping to go six months without having to pay for something new.
I keep telling myself that had I bought or leased a new BMW 3 series I would have spent this much already in payments and more in depreciation.
Last edited by Minty Fresh; 07-07-2016 at 04:44 PM.
#17
MBWorld Fanatic!
The expense doesn't come from the work typically, it comes form the parts. For most DIY'ers like me, I find the part and do it myself if I can. Since these cars don't have many parts that come in off-brands, you're paying OEM prices for parts which adds up quickly.
#18
Bought mine in 11/2015 w/ 137k miles. Now has 149k miles. Original price: $13,300.
New auxilliary battery and oil change in first month.
New rear tires, Nitto Invos.
Airmatic problems, swapped out for Strutmasters, spring 2016.
Thermostat warnings and brake warnings, new thermostat and new rear brakes and rotors, plus a total Mercedes service B, including four wheel alignment.
Professional detail job to wake up this ten year old paint.
Control arm bushings shot, making a clunking noise. Installed new control arms.
Now control arms and Strutmasters not matching up for correct ride height, so I have to go back to Strutmasters for adjustment. Mechanics that changed the control arms will not own this problem.
12k miles and $4k invested so far after purchase. I know I'm forgetting some other things. Still runs great and is fast and powerful, but I'm hoping to go six months without having to pay for something new.
I keep telling myself that had I bought or leased a new BMW 3 series I would have spent this much already in payments and more in depreciation.
New auxilliary battery and oil change in first month.
New rear tires, Nitto Invos.
Airmatic problems, swapped out for Strutmasters, spring 2016.
Thermostat warnings and brake warnings, new thermostat and new rear brakes and rotors, plus a total Mercedes service B, including four wheel alignment.
Professional detail job to wake up this ten year old paint.
Control arm bushings shot, making a clunking noise. Installed new control arms.
Now control arms and Strutmasters not matching up for correct ride height, so I have to go back to Strutmasters for adjustment. Mechanics that changed the control arms will not own this problem.
12k miles and $4k invested so far after purchase. I know I'm forgetting some other things. Still runs great and is fast and powerful, but I'm hoping to go six months without having to pay for something new.
I keep telling myself that had I bought or leased a new BMW 3 series I would have spent this much already in payments and more in depreciation.
#19
Just seems like the basic items need the maintenance? Alternator, plastic pulleys, AC compressor pulley , Brakes and maybe supercharger bearing. Once these are done I wont expect anything unless a shock goes out.
#20
Member
They changed the upper and lower on both front wheels. They showed me on the original parts where the rubber was shot, but I can't remember if that was upper or lower part.
#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
Expensive to own and maintain correctly. Most don't and drive it into the ground so, they think it's cheap to own. Until the next guy buys a 15k car and realizes there is 5-10k in repairs and maintenance due immediately.
#22
Member
#23
Senior Member
If you stay on top of every little issue and "pre issue" before trouble arises it does all add up even with doing everything yourself, if I hear one little squeak or groan out of place I will have strip mine down and rebuild and replace everything needed to remedy asap because I know if i don't it will just turn into an expensive nightmare, plus I just like buying stuff and fitting new parts , I'm outside of the US so i have to also deal with currency conversion using a weaker dollar and also shipping which 9/10 times adds up to almost the price of the parts being purchased
I have known of others that will get a few issues or error messages on the dash and just "live with it" until basically the car refuses to go any further and that is when they replace the bare essential part to continue driving and that is it, eventually these are sold on with the expensive items all coming up to end of life unbeknown to the new owner
I find with mine if an issue hasn't popped up in about 2-3 weeks (could be as small as a light bulb needing replacing or a rattle) then something big and expensive is on the way....kind of joking......kind of...
Would I get rid of it.......NO.......if I was to go back in time would I still have purchased the car knowing it was going to be a money pit.....YES
I find it like an abusive relationship......I keep getting the bash but i keep going back to it because I just love it too much - damn that torque
Just keep a sneaky $2k in one of the visa accounts for when things arise
It's always advised that when you do go to purchase get a full pre purchase inspection done on it by a Mercedes tech, overview/compression test/component check to see if you are actually buying something maintained or a lemon, a $100 check could save you $1000's - plus that can also put you in a position to talk down the price
#24
Member