W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

55K supercharger drain plug confusion.

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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 05:36 AM
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CLS55 AMG
55K supercharger drain plug confusion.

So after purchasing the Mobil Jet oil II and handing over everything to do supercharger oil change i was informed half hour later that a butter fingered mechanic had let my drain plug go on an adventure in the engine bay (most probably to the depths of the V or under the blower).

This sadly has not been found and without seeing or having the bolt i cannot get it measured for replacement and Mercedes don't have any information.

Now there are two forum posts that both have different bolts as a solution, one says a 1/8" NPT tapered pressure plug. The other says m10x1.0 pitch plug. The problem is which one is it, they are both scarily close in measurements but only one can be right and only one is tapered that i can find (the m10 is straight). Some people do use a 1/8" NPT in an m10x1.0 situation as a "that'll do" fix.

Can someone please advise which one it is as i am at a dead end at the moment and really don't want to damage the threads, i am currently able to source both a 1/8" NPT and a M10X1.0 (not tapered) from a local hydraulic engineers so its just verification on which.

Thanks in advance for anyone's help
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 11:47 AM
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Same thing happened with me, I got one of those long magnetic flexible extensions and after 15 mins, it finally came out.
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 11:50 AM
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I guarantee that thing is sitting right there under the blower. I dropped mine in there but was able to get it with a magnetic bolt picker-upper.

Using a different bolt as a temporary quick fix should let you drive around for a while.
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 12:33 PM
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Thanks for the tips, sadly I was there myself for a good hour with a magnet under the blower and the pulley (on that little ledge you think it would hide under) near the oil feeds on the right even into the depths of the v with a magnetic wand. But nothing either the car has eaten the bolt or the mechanic has.

So unfortunately I need a permanent correct fitting bolt. People have used both yet I am struggling to see how a non tapered thread will seal and not just screw all the way through into the charger and am struggling to find a tapered metric thread, unless it is of course 1/8" npt.

I can get the vin later this evening but according to Mercedes the only part listed is an entire supercharger, which is just insane.
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Plutoe
Post your VIN!!
WDD2193762A030208

Thanks for the help
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 02:04 PM
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Potential sizes to fit.

8.4.1 tapered Whitworth pipe thread DIN 2999:
R = outer thread conically, R1 / 8, external thread: taper 1:16, 28 courses / inch, outer diameter 9,728 mm, self-sealing: 0.35 Euro include VAT..
Core hole diameter: 8.566 mm, pitch: 0.907 mm, cylindrical inner thread, hex 5mm, (self sealing but I would use sealing compound)

8.4.2 parallel Whitworth pipe thread (straight) BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel)
Pipe threads not threads, sealing compounds, outside = G,
G 1/8, Outside Diameter: 9,73mm, core hole: 8,80mm, 28 courses / inch, pitch 0.907 mm (this one requires sealing compound)

8.4.3 DIN 908-locking screw with head: top
M10x1, for example, Würth, cylindrical, because you could just inferior to a sealing ring (i.e. use a sealing washer)

Above translations from this page:
http://www.hehlhans.de/motorg55-7-3.htm#b803

Last edited by bbirdwell; Aug 30, 2016 at 02:07 PM.
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bbirdwell
Potential sizes to fit.

8.4.1 tapered Whitworth pipe thread DIN 2999:
R = outer thread conically, R1 / 8, external thread: taper 1:16, 28 courses / inch, outer diameter 9,728 mm, self-sealing: 0.35 Euro include VAT..
Core hole diameter: 8.566 mm, pitch: 0.907 mm, cylindrical inner thread, hex 5mm, (self sealing but I would use sealing compound)

8.4.2 parallel Whitworth pipe thread (straight) BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel)
Pipe threads not threads, sealing compounds, outside = G,
G 1/8, Outside Diameter: 9,73mm, core hole: 8,80mm, 28 courses / inch, pitch 0.907 mm (this one requires sealing compound)

8.4.3 DIN 908-locking screw with head: top
M10x1, for example, Würth, cylindrical, because you could just inferior to a sealing ring (i.e. use a sealing washer)

Above translations from this page:
http://www.hehlhans.de/motorg55-7-3.htm#b803
Thanks for the above information problem is with some of these being so close it is hard to try them without possibly stripping the thread. Two previous posters have asked the same question in the last and seems 1/8 NPT or m10x1.0 ( possibly tapered needs verification) is the main choice I just don't know which one.
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Plutoe
Is the plug in the attached ??
It is part of the attached yes, it's above the number 5 behind the bolts you see on the face. You can't see it in the diagram and doesn't appear to have a number to it?
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Plutoe
It was worth the effort but,unfortunately the part is not by itself a part you can purchase. You are left with the other suggestions!!


Thanks for the help it's appreciated hopefully the size can be confirmed shortly for definite
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 04:07 PM
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look at post 91 in link
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...filling-4.html
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by hayseed
Awesome link looks like I am looking for a 1/8" bspt also known as an r1/8 thanks for the help
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 05:08 PM
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R 1/8" is tapered. G 1/8" is parallel. Post #91 in the post above links to the exact info I did. Highly recommend bookmarking that site and exploring it in depth.
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bbirdwell
R 1/8" is tapered. G 1/8" is parallel. Post #91 in the post above links to the exact info I did. Highly recommend bookmarking that site and exploring it in depth.
Just had a look at the link in detail it offers not only the r and g 1/8" threaded bolts but also says that the m10x1.0 is an option also. Surely there must just be one thread pattern that is suitable and all the rest are suffering from
Some sort of thread damage?

If this isn't the case I'll be safe to go ahead with my 1/8" npt in theory
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 06:14 PM
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I change my sc oil twice in a couple of month time span,, the second time the fill plug did not seem to anchor in as much as before (guessing the aluminum stretched some) put some Teflon tape on it or some thread seal and you should be good either option
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by hayseed
I change my sc oil twice in a couple of month time span,, the second time the fill plug did not seem to anchor in as much as before (guessing the aluminum stretched some) put some Teflon tape on it or some thread seal and you should be good either option
That's a good call I have both the 1/8" npt and m10x1.0 on the way so with some thread lock and some careful tightening it would appear both are up for the job. Thanks for the idea
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 06:40 PM
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Here is the original link referencing where I got the m10x1.0 measurement from

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/amg-l...in-bolt-4.html

Also 1/8 tapered is mentioned earlier on as well.
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Old Sep 2, 2016 | 04:15 PM
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Right bit of a failed attempt tried a 1/8" npt, a r1/8" as listed and a m10x1.0 pitch

Only one I had success with was the r1/8" and it bit with one thread then started to strip it

Seems too large to fit in properly any ideas?
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Old Sep 2, 2016 | 04:37 PM
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you can re-tap the existing hole with a larger thread
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Old Sep 2, 2016 | 05:29 PM
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It seems rather right the first thread of the bolt barely bites and then just sticks, I'm using a ball ended Allen key for full leverage and just cannot seem to get it to go home. Once the first thread has bitten there doesn't seem enough room for the bolt actually thread in as if the diameter is too big.

Is this usual?
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Old Sep 2, 2016 | 07:37 PM
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I had a heck of a time too, it's not started straight if you're using the original plug.
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Old Sep 3, 2016 | 10:38 AM
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R1/8" fitted in the end, maybe there was some damage to the thread from the initial mechanics attempt but got it straight as possible lined it up and started to thread it,

Got some force behind and just kept cranking, bolt tightened up to a point where it is solid in and not seeping oil whatsoever, so I'll keep an eye on it but job done.

For some reason it doesn't seem a "delicate" procedure and you actually have to be pretty forceful and brutal to get it back in.

Thanks for all the advice, and as stated the aluminium is soft enough that I actually think the bolt cuts its own thread.
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