4000lb Sideways
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Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
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From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
Definitely felt that heatsoak today, I believe ambient hit 90s today, definitely spent some time in high 80s. The Torque BT adapter is in the mail, can't wait to log some atrocious IATs...
Finally bled the system through and the car came down for the first time in a month. My fears were partially true, the MC size and the lever math makes for a tough time locking the rear wheels. I will either have to go to 5/8 diameter Wilwoods or (and this is what I'm thinking), come up with an adjustable pivot point system for the lever. Due to the geometry of the assembly simply drilling another hole might not be an option, but I will exhaust the simple solutions before I move onto redoing the plumbing itself or machining a new lever from scratch.
The biggest lesson of the day, however, was without a doubt to check the dates on the used car's tires before doing shakedown drifting. I'll let the photo do most of the talking, but the tire manufacture date indicated 4011, which is quite a bit past it's shelf life.
Finally bled the system through and the car came down for the first time in a month. My fears were partially true, the MC size and the lever math makes for a tough time locking the rear wheels. I will either have to go to 5/8 diameter Wilwoods or (and this is what I'm thinking), come up with an adjustable pivot point system for the lever. Due to the geometry of the assembly simply drilling another hole might not be an option, but I will exhaust the simple solutions before I move onto redoing the plumbing itself or machining a new lever from scratch.
The biggest lesson of the day, however, was without a doubt to check the dates on the used car's tires before doing shakedown drifting. I'll let the photo do most of the talking, but the tire manufacture date indicated 4011, which is quite a bit past it's shelf life.
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Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
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From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
Adjusted the lever pivot point for a roughly 20% improvement, not nearly goo enough.
Did some more math and decided I'm going to 1/2" ID Wilwoods. This will reduce swept area (and thereby linearly displaced volume) from 0.44 sq-in to 0.19 sq-in. That means 2.3x more clamping force for same lever effort, also making the lever travel 2.3x as far.
Sounds about right, but I'm running out of time. The car is already entered in the event on the 28th, so I had to do the quickest available Amazon shipping option. If this doesn't pan out, I'll have to be machining a new lever with completely new pivot points, possibly even longer and also likely will need new side brackets for the hydraulic box.
Meanwhile the Vales and Direzza102s are on:
Did some more math and decided I'm going to 1/2" ID Wilwoods. This will reduce swept area (and thereby linearly displaced volume) from 0.44 sq-in to 0.19 sq-in. That means 2.3x more clamping force for same lever effort, also making the lever travel 2.3x as far.
Sounds about right, but I'm running out of time. The car is already entered in the event on the 28th, so I had to do the quickest available Amazon shipping option. If this doesn't pan out, I'll have to be machining a new lever with completely new pivot points, possibly even longer and also likely will need new side brackets for the hydraulic box.
Meanwhile the Vales and Direzza102s are on:
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
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From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
TSW Vales: http://fitment.tsw.com/alloy-wheels-...model=E55+W211
32mm offset at 18x8.5" and the P\N is 1885VLE325112B72. Square fitment. I use 245mm/40 rubber on em.
32mm offset at 18x8.5" and the P\N is 1885VLE325112B72. Square fitment. I use 245mm/40 rubber on em.
Last edited by jumph4x; Jun 20, 2017 at 08:45 PM.
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From: South Africa
2018 E63s AMG (Current) 2011 CL63 AMG (Sold) 2005 CLS55 AMG (Sold) 2004 C32 AMG (Sold)
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2018 E63s AMG (Current) 2011 CL63 AMG (Sold) 2005 CLS55 AMG (Sold) 2004 C32 AMG (Sold)
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From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
Crap! I hooked up the steering wheel controls circuit and the buttons do not work!
I needed that to be able to get into the dyno mode. ****, ****, ****. Think, think. I am not sure I have enough time to code this all out in CBT before the event which is coming up in a week.
I needed that to be able to get into the dyno mode. ****, ****, ****. Think, think. I am not sure I have enough time to code this all out in CBT before the event which is coming up in a week.
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,128
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From: SoCal
2006 E55, Various other German and ‘Murican
Forget the buttons and focus on what the buttons do TO the canbus to trigger DynoMode.
Those inputs don't need to come from the steering wheel right now.
Those inputs don't need to come from the steering wheel right now.
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From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2013
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Likes: 80
From: SoCal
2006 E55, Various other German and ‘Murican
If the CAN network is "senthitive" how you chose to create inputs may be not accepted, and an error code logged. Can you see these? Do they exist?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
Likes: 70
From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
Hydraulic brake is done-ish. After putting in the 1/2" ID Wilwoods, replumbing everything and fixing a stubborn leak, I'm finally able to enjoy the fruit of that labor.
Did some IAT investigative work and all I have to say is 'wow'. I logged a 115C (240F). This seems insane. After my first event I'm immediately making that priority #1. As a recap, what I have planned for that is a new IAT sensor, splitting the plumbing, new heat exchanger and new pump. Possibly a manual override relay to make it run from a switch (or fulltime).
EDIT: for the life of me cannot location a +12VDC constant for the headunit, so when I shut of the car is does the infamous pop of speaker ruin. Tested every wire available back there, they're all switched. What do, where is the nearest source. halp.
Did some IAT investigative work and all I have to say is 'wow'. I logged a 115C (240F). This seems insane. After my first event I'm immediately making that priority #1. As a recap, what I have planned for that is a new IAT sensor, splitting the plumbing, new heat exchanger and new pump. Possibly a manual override relay to make it run from a switch (or fulltime).
EDIT: for the life of me cannot location a +12VDC constant for the headunit, so when I shut of the car is does the infamous pop of speaker ruin. Tested every wire available back there, they're all switched. What do, where is the nearest source. halp.
Last edited by jumph4x; Jun 22, 2017 at 09:07 PM.
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2004 E55
Hydraulic brake is done-ish. After putting in the 1/2" ID Wilwoods, replumbing everything and fixing a stubborn leak, I'm finally able to enjoy the fruit of that labor.
Did some IAT investigative work and all I have to say is 'wow'. I logged a 115C (240F). This seems insane. After my first event I'm immediately making that priority #1. As a recap, what I have planned for that is a new IAT sensor, splitting the plumbing, new heat exchanger and new pump. Possibly a manual override relay to make it run from a switch (or fulltime).
EDIT: for the life of me cannot location a +12VDC constant for the headunit, so when I shut of the car is does the infamous pop of speaker ruin. Tested every wire available back there, they're all switched. What do, where is the nearest source. halp.
Did some IAT investigative work and all I have to say is 'wow'. I logged a 115C (240F). This seems insane. After my first event I'm immediately making that priority #1. As a recap, what I have planned for that is a new IAT sensor, splitting the plumbing, new heat exchanger and new pump. Possibly a manual override relay to make it run from a switch (or fulltime).
EDIT: for the life of me cannot location a +12VDC constant for the headunit, so when I shut of the car is does the infamous pop of speaker ruin. Tested every wire available back there, they're all switched. What do, where is the nearest source. halp.
240 is nuts man SC shuts off at 200, that makes me think something is up with your pump or you need meth installed asap to do what you are doing
I used a coupler off a fuse for 12v constant in the drivers side fuse box and just ran it up and over. The one behind the plastic panel. Just read about whats what and pick one that not too intrusive. Most all those are 12v constant
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Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
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From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
240 is nuts man SC shuts off at 200, that makes me think something is up with your pump or you need meth installed asap to do what you are doing
I used a coupler off a fuse for 12v constant in the drivers side fuse box and just ran it up and over. The one behind the plastic panel. Just read about whats what and pick one that not too intrusive. Most all those are 12v constant
I used a coupler off a fuse for 12v constant in the drivers side fuse box and just ran it up and over. The one behind the plastic panel. Just read about whats what and pick one that not too intrusive. Most all those are 12v constant
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 386
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From: Tx
04 55
hey jump, you may want to take a look at this and replace bolts and reinforce proactively with what your going to be doing with the car -- good luck and interesting build
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-big-deal.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-big-deal.html
your car has *****
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
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From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
I just took the car to it's first event. I was anxious and nervous for months. I bring great news: it definitely drifts. Feeling very wholesomely happy and validated right now.
I have quite a bit of footage to cut into some episodes. Stand by, team!
I have quite a bit of footage to cut into some episodes. Stand by, team!
