Bulletproofing mods for the car? I want to keep it cool and durable
04-05-2017, 12:24 PM
#1
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05 E55, 98 CLK320
Bulletproofing mods for the car? I want to keep it cool and durable
Hi guys,
I live in Florida and the summer heat is always an issue for cars.
I'm looking at this kit: http://vrpspeed.com/index.php?route=...product_id=191
Will this help keep my car cooler and on the road longer? Performance isn't what I'm after really....
Is installation of this kit DIY friendly?
Any other mods to keep the fluids cooler? How do you make your e55 more durable?
Any thoughts appreciated.
I live in Florida and the summer heat is always an issue for cars.
I'm looking at this kit: http://vrpspeed.com/index.php?route=...product_id=191
Will this help keep my car cooler and on the road longer? Performance isn't what I'm after really....
Is installation of this kit DIY friendly?
Any other mods to keep the fluids cooler? How do you make your e55 more durable?
Any thoughts appreciated.
04-05-2017, 02:20 PM
#2
Super Member
Find out if you need a radiator up grade, I don't remember which year they were changed to prevent coolant finding it's way into the tranny.
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MACEDON (04-05-2017)
04-05-2017, 04:30 PM
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05 E55, 98 CLK320
Awesome.
Are these a DIYer can do? For reference most complicated thing I've done was replaced the EGR cooler, oil cooler, and turbo on my 6.0l F250 a while back. I just have hand tools, no lift or anything fancy...
So quick google returned this for PLM heat exhanger
https://mbworld.org/forums/vendor-gr...g-special.html
How does this compare to the $1000 VPR kit I posted?
Are these a DIYer can do? For reference most complicated thing I've done was replaced the EGR cooler, oil cooler, and turbo on my 6.0l F250 a while back. I just have hand tools, no lift or anything fancy...
So quick google returned this for PLM heat exhanger
https://mbworld.org/forums/vendor-gr...g-special.html
How does this compare to the $1000 VPR kit I posted?
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MACEDON (04-05-2017)
04-05-2017, 05:10 PM
#12
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Here's some stuff that we sell for your car. (:
http://www.eurocharged.com/products/...lass/c-167-e55
http://www.eurocharged.com/products/...lass/c-167-e55
04-05-2017, 07:27 PM
#13
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05 E55, 98 CLK320
Here's some stuff that we sell for your car. (:
http://www.eurocharged.com/products/...lass/c-167-e55
http://www.eurocharged.com/products/...lass/c-167-e55
I saw there's an official location and a dealer in Tampa, will definitelly visit DP Repairs to see what they can do for me for sure.
04-05-2017, 08:20 PM
#16
Member
Awesome.
Are these a DIYer can do? For reference most complicated thing I've done was replaced the EGR cooler, oil cooler, and turbo on my 6.0l F250 a while back. I just have hand tools, no lift or anything fancy...
So quick google returned this for PLM heat exhanger
https://mbworld.org/forums/vendor-gr...g-special.html
How does this compare to the $1000 VPR kit I posted?
Are these a DIYer can do? For reference most complicated thing I've done was replaced the EGR cooler, oil cooler, and turbo on my 6.0l F250 a while back. I just have hand tools, no lift or anything fancy...
So quick google returned this for PLM heat exhanger
https://mbworld.org/forums/vendor-gr...g-special.html
How does this compare to the $1000 VPR kit I posted?
I sold my 2004 CCLB 4x4 to get my E55. They love trucks here in Texas! As for work on the Merc, should be no issues at all. Front bumper comes off with little effort. The clamps on the hoses are similar and the cars are really well built.
Only special tools needed are an inverted torx socket set and Star DAS, a computer system that reads the ECU and that is for diagnostics more than anything else. Like the 6.0 good maintenance is the key. Once all of that is covered keeping heat in check is next.
No idea on the kit but the parts are available all over so careful shopping will get you the best deal. If you have any questions you can usually find the answers here on the forums as someone has asked it before.
I went a different route than most and decided to go with meth and a split system before getting a heat exchanger. I will get an exchanger soon but this is my fun car so I really only drive it for fun. Of course I made sure all the mechanicals were in top shape first.
Like the 6.0 some mods really wake the car up: Tune, Headers, Pulley, and Throttle Body all help get more air in and out.
I really enjoy driving it and it reminds me of my truck, instant torque. Only difference is the color of the smoke; now its white from the tires!
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MACEDON (04-06-2017)
04-08-2017, 03:48 PM
#17
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04-09-2017, 06:50 PM
#18
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05 E55, 98 CLK320
Question is, did you do it cab on or cab off!!!?!
I sold my 2004 CCLB 4x4 to get my E55. They love trucks here in Texas! As for work on the Merc, should be no issues at all. Front bumper comes off with little effort. The clamps on the hoses are similar and the cars are really well built.
Only special tools needed are an inverted torx socket set and Star DAS, a computer system that reads the ECU and that is for diagnostics more than anything else. Like the 6.0 good maintenance is the key. Once all of that is covered keeping heat in check is next.
No idea on the kit but the parts are available all over so careful shopping will get you the best deal. If you have any questions you can usually find the answers here on the forums as someone has asked it before.
I went a different route than most and decided to go with meth and a split system before getting a heat exchanger. I will get an exchanger soon but this is my fun car so I really only drive it for fun. Of course I made sure all the mechanicals were in top shape first.
Like the 6.0 some mods really wake the car up: Tune, Headers, Pulley, and Throttle Body all help get more air in and out.
I really enjoy driving it and it reminds me of my truck, instant torque. Only difference is the color of the smoke; now its white from the tires!
I sold my 2004 CCLB 4x4 to get my E55. They love trucks here in Texas! As for work on the Merc, should be no issues at all. Front bumper comes off with little effort. The clamps on the hoses are similar and the cars are really well built.
Only special tools needed are an inverted torx socket set and Star DAS, a computer system that reads the ECU and that is for diagnostics more than anything else. Like the 6.0 good maintenance is the key. Once all of that is covered keeping heat in check is next.
No idea on the kit but the parts are available all over so careful shopping will get you the best deal. If you have any questions you can usually find the answers here on the forums as someone has asked it before.
I went a different route than most and decided to go with meth and a split system before getting a heat exchanger. I will get an exchanger soon but this is my fun car so I really only drive it for fun. Of course I made sure all the mechanicals were in top shape first.
Like the 6.0 some mods really wake the car up: Tune, Headers, Pulley, and Throttle Body all help get more air in and out.
I really enjoy driving it and it reminds me of my truck, instant torque. Only difference is the color of the smoke; now its white from the tires!
So through shardul I'll be getting an idler kid, ec tune, headers, and the heat exchanger.
I gotta service the valve covers and get new spark plugs, flex discs on the differential and new bearings on the front right apparently.
Leaky exhaust is forcing me to get the headers done, and I have no cats... so I get check engine lit up, hopefully I'm not doing tons of damage with missfire and what not.
It will take a bit of $$$ and tender love, I am hoping to install the PLM hxc and bosch pump myself to save some $$$
Yeah def going through Shardul, I read good things about the guy and he's been great with some support through PM's
04-09-2017, 09:27 PM
#20
Member
Shardul did very well by me as well. My suggestion if you are keeping the car, Get a Star system. As complex as these cars are you can save your money and get it right the first time using the factory diagnostic's.
I got mine from Shardul as I did not want to do a bunch of troubleshooting and wanted a live person to talk to should I have any issues.
Price is higher than your heat exchanger but it will pay for itself if you have issues down the road.
Valve covers are easy, use Mercedes OEM gaskets. I tried to save a buck and it was not worth it. The covers attached to the valve covers leak as well. I used black silicone on those.
For plugs I went Bosch as I have had very good results in the past. Most use NGK. Plug wires are a pain, make sure you go OEM or expect at least one plug wire to be too short.
One plus to the Star system, you can code out the secondary O2 sensors and pass emissions. It will remove the check engine light as well if that is the reason for the light.
You should not hurt the car running without cats, your secondary O2 sensors are telling the ECU that the cats are gone. This is purely an emissions issue.
I got mine from Shardul as I did not want to do a bunch of troubleshooting and wanted a live person to talk to should I have any issues.
Price is higher than your heat exchanger but it will pay for itself if you have issues down the road.
Valve covers are easy, use Mercedes OEM gaskets. I tried to save a buck and it was not worth it. The covers attached to the valve covers leak as well. I used black silicone on those.
For plugs I went Bosch as I have had very good results in the past. Most use NGK. Plug wires are a pain, make sure you go OEM or expect at least one plug wire to be too short.
One plus to the Star system, you can code out the secondary O2 sensors and pass emissions. It will remove the check engine light as well if that is the reason for the light.
You should not hurt the car running without cats, your secondary O2 sensors are telling the ECU that the cats are gone. This is purely an emissions issue.
Last edited by seanol; 04-09-2017 at 09:28 PM. Reason: spelling was atrocious...
04-09-2017, 11:14 PM
#21
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I bought it from these scumbags Moto Labs in St. Petersburg. The guy Aaron lied to my face about how the car was inspected, and even though I knew I should have slept on the decision and should have had the car checked out, I got tricked by his trustworthy sounding words, and signed the contract AS IS, handed them my cash, and drove away. I noticed the problems the next day. I fell again for a scam buying auction garbage from St Pete. First one was a CLK320 from another shady dealer.
The car was at an auction 2 weeks prior to me buying it, it was sold for $10500, they sold it to me for $13,500 with their 500 dealer fee and out of door I paid $14500. While the price isn't bad, the car was in very very bad shape for what I paid. So maybe it is the same car, shame there are scumbags that deal with these precious cars.
Leaky valve covers, wobbly wheels, bad front right bearing, the airmatic is leaning on the left side, badly leaking exhaust, **** that would've been seen by an experienced mechanic.
They're nothing but lying scumbags who sell auction garbage, knowingly. I hope someone stumbles on this post and never buys from them, ever. LIARS!
Anyway, otherwise I love this car and I'm happy that it will get a chance to be brought back to life and loved
welcome to my first AMG, it's as broken as me. We will heal together <3Shardul did very well by me as well. My suggestion if you are keeping the car, Get a Star system. As complex as these cars are you can save your money and get it right the first time using the factory diagnostic's.
I got mine from Shardul as I did not want to do a bunch of troubleshooting and wanted a live person to talk to should I have any issues.
Price is higher than your heat exchanger but it will pay for itself if you have issues down the road.
Valve covers are easy, use Mercedes OEM gaskets. I tried to save a buck and it was not worth it. The covers attached to the valve covers leak as well. I used black silicone on those.
For plugs I went Bosch as I have had very good results in the past. Most use NGK. Plug wires are a pain, make sure you go OEM or expect at least one plug wire to be too short.
One plus to the Star system, you can code out the secondary O2 sensors and pass emissions. It will remove the check engine light as well if that is the reason for the light.
You should not hurt the car running without cats, your secondary O2 sensors are telling the ECU that the cats are gone. This is purely an emissions issue.
I got mine from Shardul as I did not want to do a bunch of troubleshooting and wanted a live person to talk to should I have any issues.
Price is higher than your heat exchanger but it will pay for itself if you have issues down the road.
Valve covers are easy, use Mercedes OEM gaskets. I tried to save a buck and it was not worth it. The covers attached to the valve covers leak as well. I used black silicone on those.
For plugs I went Bosch as I have had very good results in the past. Most use NGK. Plug wires are a pain, make sure you go OEM or expect at least one plug wire to be too short.
One plus to the Star system, you can code out the secondary O2 sensors and pass emissions. It will remove the check engine light as well if that is the reason for the light.
You should not hurt the car running without cats, your secondary O2 sensors are telling the ECU that the cats are gone. This is purely an emissions issue.
How crucial do you think doing the tune up is at this point?
Oh also wait till you hear this... the car has a missing PCV valve, when I took it to my local merc mechanic for an inspection he said that's baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad, so he put a plug on it and sent me away to think about the $2200 labor bill, he said I can provide my own parts.
Okay so here is what's wrong with the car, according to this experienced Merc mechanic (not AMG mechanics but he works on a lot and lot of Mercs and has a bunch of diesels himself, his father has Merc experience over the past 50 years in Albania where they rebuild and stretch the lives of Mercs like no other country).
So after my inspection at Drenica Customs in New Port Richey FL, I found out the following:
--No pcv valve, currently have a cap, must fix, is there a good DIY? Considerations if I do it meself?
--Car leans to the left side quite a bit when it's off, it looks normal when I drive it though, Arnott coilover conversion imminent
--Wobbling left rear wheel, crack, right one was repaired on the dealer's dime, I'm gonna call to get this one fixed too because a lug nut was stuck and this mechanic was able to get it off
--Leaky welds on the midpipe, possibly headers too because car has been slammed at high speeds
--Differential flex disks have to be changed (I assume it's just time for that to happen)
--Needs new front right wheel bearing
and I'm sure other things that will be pointed out by a better shop or the dealer when I take it there. I'm thinking about taking it to Lokey Mercedes for an oil change+inspection if they can bulndle it up together, then I will shop around Tampa Bay to find a shop that will do it for a good price+provide parts.
So yeah man, I'm kinda in deep **** with this car, but I'm looking forward to the day it rides smooth. It could cost me $5-7k until that happens but I am very excited to get it up to spec
I'll definitely be investing in a star diagostic system too, I have to prioritize and leave the mods for a later time so I can get one of those.
I'm relatively young and I will support this car with my engineering salary, which is not adequate for this AMG but I wanted to get my dream car before I turn 26 so I'll embrace the struggle.
Last edited by MACEDON; 04-10-2017 at 08:41 AM.
04-10-2017, 01:04 AM
#22
I think it was last driven in Miami, it originally came from Illinois based on the service history.
I bought it from these scumbags Moto Labs in St. Petersburg. The guy Aaron lied to my face about how the car was inspected, and even though I knew I should have slept on the decision, and had the car checked out, I got tricked by his trustworthy sounding words, and signed the contract AS IS, handed them my cash, and drove away. I noticed the problems the next day. I fell again for a scam buying auction garbage from St Pete. First one was a CLK320 from another shady dealer.
The car was at an auction 2 weeks prior to me buying it, it was sold for $10500, they sold it to me for $13,500 with their 500 dealer fee and out of door I paid $14500. While the price isn't bad, the car was in very very bad shape for what I paid. So maybe it is the same car, shame there are scumbags that deal with these precious cars.
Leaky valve covers, wobbly wheels, bad front right bearing, the airmatic is leaning on the left side, badly leaking exhaust, **** that would've been seen by an experienced mechanic.
They're nothing but lying scumbags who sell auction garbage, knowingly. I hope someone stumbles on this post and never buys from them, ever. LIARS!
Anyway, otherwise I love this car and I'm happy that it will get a chance to be brought back to life and loved welcome to my first AMG, it's as broken as me. We will heal together <3
Thank you for the insight. Honestly I'm pretty scared to do the valve covers myself, or do the suspension work for the coilover conversion. Honestly I'm very scared to work on this car overall... I'm afraid I'll **** it up quite a bit, and I don't have all the time and comfort I want with my 9-5. I'm going to keep snooping around to find out if I should do a DIY or take it to a shop for this part... I saw one already but it was enough to scare me into not doing it.
How crucial do you think doing the tune up is at this point?
Oh also wait till you hear this... the car has a missing PCV valve, when I took it to my local merc mechanic for an inspection he said that's baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad, so he put a plug on it and sent me away to think about the $2200 labor bill, he said I can provide my own parts.
Okay so here is what's wrong with the car, according to this experienced Merc mechanic (not AMG mechanics but he works on a lot and lot of Mercs and has a bunch of diesels himself, his father has Merc experience over the past 50 years in Albania where they rebuild and stretch the lives of Mercs like no other country).
So after my inspection at Drenica Customs in New Port Richey FL, I found out the following:
--No pcv valve, currently have a cap, must fix, is there a good DIY? Considerations if I do it meself?
--Car leans to the left side quite a bit when it's off, it looks normal when I drive it though, Arnott coilover conversion imminent
--Wobbling left rear wheel, crack, right one was repaired on the dealer's dime, I'm gonna call to get this one fixed too because a lug nut was stuck and this mechanic was able to get it off
--Leaky welds on the midpipe, possibly headers too because car has been slammed at high speeds
--Differential flex disks have to be changed (I assume it's just time for that to happen)
--Needs new front right wheel bearing
and I'm sure other things that will be pointed out by a better shop or the dealer when I take it there. I'm thinking about taking it to Lokey Mercedes for an oil change+inspection if they can bulndle it up together, then I will shop around Tampa Bay to find a shop that will do it for a good price+provide parts.
So yeah man, I'm kinda in deep **** with this car, but I'm looking forward to the day it rides smooth. It could cost me $5-7k until that happens but I am very excited to get it up to spec
I'll definitely be investing in a star diagostic system too, I have to prioritize and leave the mods for a later time so I can get one of those.
I'm relatively young and I will support this car with my engineering salary, which is not adequate for this AMG but I wanted to get my dream car before I turn 26 so I'll embrace the struggle.
I bought it from these scumbags Moto Labs in St. Petersburg. The guy Aaron lied to my face about how the car was inspected, and even though I knew I should have slept on the decision, and had the car checked out, I got tricked by his trustworthy sounding words, and signed the contract AS IS, handed them my cash, and drove away. I noticed the problems the next day. I fell again for a scam buying auction garbage from St Pete. First one was a CLK320 from another shady dealer.
The car was at an auction 2 weeks prior to me buying it, it was sold for $10500, they sold it to me for $13,500 with their 500 dealer fee and out of door I paid $14500. While the price isn't bad, the car was in very very bad shape for what I paid. So maybe it is the same car, shame there are scumbags that deal with these precious cars.
Leaky valve covers, wobbly wheels, bad front right bearing, the airmatic is leaning on the left side, badly leaking exhaust, **** that would've been seen by an experienced mechanic.
They're nothing but lying scumbags who sell auction garbage, knowingly. I hope someone stumbles on this post and never buys from them, ever. LIARS!
Anyway, otherwise I love this car and I'm happy that it will get a chance to be brought back to life and loved
welcome to my first AMG, it's as broken as me. We will heal together <3Thank you for the insight. Honestly I'm pretty scared to do the valve covers myself, or do the suspension work for the coilover conversion. Honestly I'm very scared to work on this car overall... I'm afraid I'll **** it up quite a bit, and I don't have all the time and comfort I want with my 9-5. I'm going to keep snooping around to find out if I should do a DIY or take it to a shop for this part... I saw one already but it was enough to scare me into not doing it.
How crucial do you think doing the tune up is at this point?
Oh also wait till you hear this... the car has a missing PCV valve, when I took it to my local merc mechanic for an inspection he said that's baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad, so he put a plug on it and sent me away to think about the $2200 labor bill, he said I can provide my own parts.
Okay so here is what's wrong with the car, according to this experienced Merc mechanic (not AMG mechanics but he works on a lot and lot of Mercs and has a bunch of diesels himself, his father has Merc experience over the past 50 years in Albania where they rebuild and stretch the lives of Mercs like no other country).
So after my inspection at Drenica Customs in New Port Richey FL, I found out the following:
--No pcv valve, currently have a cap, must fix, is there a good DIY? Considerations if I do it meself?
--Car leans to the left side quite a bit when it's off, it looks normal when I drive it though, Arnott coilover conversion imminent
--Wobbling left rear wheel, crack, right one was repaired on the dealer's dime, I'm gonna call to get this one fixed too because a lug nut was stuck and this mechanic was able to get it off
--Leaky welds on the midpipe, possibly headers too because car has been slammed at high speeds
--Differential flex disks have to be changed (I assume it's just time for that to happen)
--Needs new front right wheel bearing
and I'm sure other things that will be pointed out by a better shop or the dealer when I take it there. I'm thinking about taking it to Lokey Mercedes for an oil change+inspection if they can bulndle it up together, then I will shop around Tampa Bay to find a shop that will do it for a good price+provide parts.
So yeah man, I'm kinda in deep **** with this car, but I'm looking forward to the day it rides smooth. It could cost me $5-7k until that happens but I am very excited to get it up to spec
I'll definitely be investing in a star diagostic system too, I have to prioritize and leave the mods for a later time so I can get one of those.
I'm relatively young and I will support this car with my engineering salary, which is not adequate for this AMG but I wanted to get my dream car before I turn 26 so I'll embrace the struggle.
04-10-2017, 08:40 AM
#23
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$2200 is the price quoted for all the labor I listed, valve cover and sparkplugs tune, bearing, aftermarket headers installed, wheel bearing, differential flex disks.
So on the back of the supercharger there is an outlet for air apparently and it is a hose connected to a valve to return air from the oil catch can (the way the guy explained it). This was a new concept to me, I've heard of pcv valves.
Well, this valve is missing and the hole was left open to suction air straight form the dirty atmosphere bypassing the air filters. Not good. Very bad. I bought the car like this with all these anomalies.
So on the back of the supercharger there is an outlet for air apparently and it is a hose connected to a valve to return air from the oil catch can (the way the guy explained it). This was a new concept to me, I've heard of pcv valves.
Well, this valve is missing and the hole was left open to suction air straight form the dirty atmosphere bypassing the air filters. Not good. Very bad. I bought the car like this with all these anomalies.
04-01-2018, 11:34 AM
#24
If and when you get the STAR Diagnostic System, you can easily see what pressure each shock is set to. If you see a drastic difference between front left and right, then you can adjust with STAR incrementaly by selecting the curser button or press F3 (F4) to inflate/delflate each AirSpring, assuming they work. You should be able to hear the air transferring to/from the Air Numatic Container(forget actual name of this in STAR) to/from each strut. It's a closed system so you can see that when you deflate, for example each AirSpring, you will see that the Air Container gets "charged" inflated with more air up to a total of some 8+ Bar! The downside to this type of system is that there can be problems with either the AirSpring themselves, the air compressor, leaks in the lines etc., but the performance over Coilovers is that you not only can adjust for height, but much more importantly you get the instant "Airmatic" increase/decrease in air pressure as you hit a bump/pothole or stear into a turn real hard! This is the holy grail of the Airmatic system, something Coilovers and Arnott's for that matter cannot touch!! Arnott simply plugs the hole at the bottom of each AirSpring in what appears to be the expansion chamber and inserts a resister to fool the ECU into thinking the Airmatic is operational (i.e. You won't see a CEL ) but that doesn't mean Airmatic is working! All the Arnott does essentially is adjust for height!
When I recently rebuilt my front suspension (Control Arms, Torque Arms, ball joints, F1 Fabrications Adjustable Camber Upper Control Arms, Racing Brake Front Rotors and Brakes) I noticed that I had an Arnott on one side and a Leaking original AirSpring on the other. When I went to drop off my Intake to be remanufactured by RMT (Rebuild Master Tech) in Ft. Lauderdale, Fl. I saw that they also rebuilt OEM Airsprings that cost for two airsprings the same price for one Arnott! Go figure! So when I went back to pick my beautifully rebuilt Intake, I picked up two "new" Airsprings! I brought the two struts in to save on "core charge" and get this, they would only accept the OEM original as they could even re-use the Arnott. This was when they explained the enormous shortcoming of the Arnott to me!! Unbelievable, I know!
I'm still up on jack stands however as I am taking off the heads to have them rebuilt and ported/polished, so I can't yet comment on the Airsprings, but I can't wait to get my E63 on the road as I've only driven 15 miles from the Autobody Shop since I bought it in December!!'
When I recently rebuilt my front suspension (Control Arms, Torque Arms, ball joints, F1 Fabrications Adjustable Camber Upper Control Arms, Racing Brake Front Rotors and Brakes) I noticed that I had an Arnott on one side and a Leaking original AirSpring on the other. When I went to drop off my Intake to be remanufactured by RMT (Rebuild Master Tech) in Ft. Lauderdale, Fl. I saw that they also rebuilt OEM Airsprings that cost for two airsprings the same price for one Arnott! Go figure! So when I went back to pick my beautifully rebuilt Intake, I picked up two "new" Airsprings! I brought the two struts in to save on "core charge" and get this, they would only accept the OEM original as they could even re-use the Arnott. This was when they explained the enormous shortcoming of the Arnott to me!! Unbelievable, I know!
I'm still up on jack stands however as I am taking off the heads to have them rebuilt and ported/polished, so I can't yet comment on the Airsprings, but I can't wait to get my E63 on the road as I've only driven 15 miles from the Autobody Shop since I bought it in December!!'
Last edited by E63007; 04-01-2018 at 11:42 AM.
04-01-2018, 12:47 PM
#25
Unless you have your own press it seems like replacing the entire hub is the way to go.
Wheel bearings $50 + labor 2-3 hours at whatever rate comes out at a wash
Wheel hub $250, 20 minutes DIY in the front yard. It's super simple to swap front hubs.
Wheel bearings $50 + labor 2-3 hours at whatever rate comes out at a wash
Wheel hub $250, 20 minutes DIY in the front yard. It's super simple to swap front hubs.
