Jon2007E63P30

That's right. I replaced my front brake disks at 87,500 with racingbrake.com rotors and I am replacing them again at 201,056 miles.

Those rotors used 1.75 OEM brake pads.

They wore from 1.4inches new, to 1.3inches on the inside edge and 1.25inches on the outside edge.

If you want details on torques I used, look at the original install here. (The guys at RB posted their info at the bottom of page 3 of that thread)

Sadly, I never tracked these. However, my replacement includes XT910 brake pads from RB, so I gotta get on my home track Laguna Seca.

Another note. The replacement disks essentially cost a little more than half the original install. Not quoting exact number because that would mess with RB marketing.

Here we go.

So the first two attachment photos are of the rotor on the car, the kit of gear, and a fuzzy edge shot of the wear on the rotor.

Got to get an inch pound torque wrench to torque the 10 bolts.

Jon2007E63P30

OK. So remove the old disks and remove the 10 8mm head bolts. Had to resort to a real electric impact wrench to remove them. Trashed a non-impact 8mm socket, but removed them all.

Next, clean the aluminum hat. Oven cleaner!!!! Worked great with a paint brush to remove all the old brake dust and other crap accumulating on the hat. Used the same on the calipers!

Jon2007E63P30

Lastly, use the in a classic star pattern to tighten all to 108-120 inch pounds. I used 114 in-lb.

Then, re-assemble. As I said, look at the link I put in the first post for torques I used on the caliper bolts. 85ft-lb pretty sure with blue lock tight.

The pads did not include the damper weights that MB added to reduce brake squeal. I have only a little. One pad was VERY tight (outside left), but did not ultimately pose a problem after following the break in instructions. No room for any shims, thus any brake grease was omitted.

I have Ti brake shims, and if I go to the track, I might add them. They keep the heat in the pad and act as an insulator to the caliper.

This all was very straight forward. Other than the tight pad, no hickups.

Hope you all enjoy...
Jon - the highest mileage original owner M156 on the forum

hachiroku

factory head bolts for all of those 200k+ miles?

Jon2007E63P30

Yes. Same head bolts.

RacingBrake

Thanks to Jon for his ultra long term and candid review on RB two piece rotors, this would be a record (5+ years and 114,000 miles) that is hard for any competition to even come close, which also proves that although the initial buying cost is higher than OE/aftermarket 1 pc but if you factor in the longevity and our "pad friendly" discs, the overall running cost of RB two piece rotors is actually cheaper.

RacingBrake is also a proud supporter to C63 track enthusiasts in inspiring their confidence on tracks.
We work hard to earn your trust, and we want to take this opportunity to thank all who put their confidence on our brake products - From brake pad or rotor replacement, to rebuilding your calipers, to the complete brake system ( iron or CCM) we have them all.

All our brakes are made from the finest material (per SAE, ASTM, FMSI and other applicable standards), with better designs resulting precise fitment that can provide you with years of durable performance and lasting beauty behind your loved wheels.

Thank you.

Warren-RB

Jan AMG

That's impressive.

Strigoi

If someone doesn't want to use oven cleaner on their car CarPro Iron X works amazingly well on brake dust. It just dissolves it so you only need to give a light scrub after letting it soak for 5 minutes and then hose it off.

I used it on my stock wheels after removing them. It looked like the barrels had never been cleaned and the Iron X made them look almost brand new.

The stuff isn't cheap and it smells horrible (need to use it outside), but it works damn well.

The attached pic shows it working on the roof of my Durango.

Infiniti

Thanks again for another informative and helpful post Jon your car is a legend!

MACEDON

Looks like I found what rotors im buying

RacingBrake

Hello Jon,

Can you share with us and update the overall performance of this set up - RacingBrake two piece rotors with XT910 brake pad combo.
http://www.racingbrake.com/Mercedes-.../mb-irk-07.htm

Thank you.

skylinrcr01

The sonax wheel cleaner works wonders at removing brake dust too, and also smells really bad. Wonder if it's similar chemically?

Jan AMG

Try Chemical Guys products. They work well and do not smell.

hachiroku

i use CarPro IronX...melts away all brake dust. minimal effort is required.

Jon2007E63P30

Gents,
At 216.6K I can tell you the brake dust is less than stock but not as low as some focusing on that. Pretty much matches the rears now. No noticeable fade on spirited mountain driving. Very good brake feel. I wish I could report how it does on the track, but I will update,
Oh yes, no squeal and no problems in the cold. Where 25F is about as cold as they would get.

Best part is I kept my floating rotors for a fraction of the price now that I only change the iron disk!

Yuille36

I just finished a complete brake job on my 07 E63 last Friday. I saved my aluminum bells, and discarded the friction rings, as they looked as bad as yours, with an obvious lip on both the inside and outside edge.

RacingBrake

Your feedback and comment touched those issues that concern MB owner's most on their brakes:

AgSilver

I highly recommend that the original factory (Brembo) caliper (8.8) retaining bolts be replaced with new (12.9) bolts and torque them to 135nm (100 ft lbs). There have been instances of the original bolts breaking when reused. I experienced this when replacing my second set of rotors with RB rotors.

Billmiranda

So,.. any group buys/Discounts or anything for/from Racing Brakes?

SGTzAMG

Reviving this thread too!
Jon, this is simply an amazing write up and product follow up. Just simply wow. i believe you are definitely the highest mileage M156 in this forum, or even in general at that for all M156 owners, AND at original head bolts wow. My '09 SL63 with P030 just had a complete internal refresh a few weeks ago with new updated head bolts and requested SLS lifters among other preventative maintenance, all done at the dealer; and I'm at 65k mileage lol

Originally came across your original thread looking for the caliper bolt torque specs and simply cross refernecing between chassis with similar / same front brake set up, and what a lot of 101 i have read just by your DIY / write up / brakes follow up

I applaud you brother!

And i also applaud you RB for innovating such amazing brake rotors!

RacingBrake

Jon,
What a legendary review with a historical record of rotor longevity for Mercedes.
When you got a chance would you give members an update of your brake condition after 4 years of disc replacement.

Thank you.

AgSilver

I would remind those considering rotor replacement of the advantage of RB lightweight rotors/hats. The reduction of unsprung weight is instantly noticeable plus the reduction of rotational mass is equivalent to an addition of about 40 hp. I chose to use EBC "Red" pads as a result of my past experience with having ice cold rotors being able to quickly haul the beast down from 100+ mph on the Autobahns when a Fiat 500 jumps out in front of you. However, I have no doubt about the suitability of RB pads. Simply, my goal has always been to be able to get out of trouble faster than I got into it.

san40

@RacingBrake can you guys confirm the torque specs for the 8mm bolts, is this still accurate ?
> Lastly, use the in a classic star pattern to tighten all to 108-120 inch pounds. I used 114 in-lb.

Separate thanks to @Jon2007E63P30 View Post , your posts are the reason I'm installing RB rotors

RacingBrake

Those are M6 bolts, and yes you are in the right torque within published number.Meantime please allow us to present our two piece rotor hardware in design, material, construction and functionality. So that all members interested in a light weight two piece rotor can have a better understanding how they are consisted of.

https://racingbrake.com/rb-2-pc-rotor-hardware/]RB Two piece rotor hardware

RB exclusive design of mechanical "self- locking" hardware (M6)

New hardware (Left) After torqued to 110 in-lbs (Right)







Shinning threads exhibit the nut effectively bite into the thread permanently so you don't have to worry about what grade of Loctite to use, and how long it's going to hold.



Final rotor assembly (Plaid front stock replacement 380x32mm)





RB self-locking design w/o using Loctite like most of others, so it can ensure the assembly retains consistent torque during the life of the rotor at any braking temperature.









Illustration of disc movement (sliding) during heat expansion & contraction:





RB rotors assembly uses less piece of hardware (2 ea) than the traditional surface mount assembly with multiple pieces (3+), resulting a 2D "Sliding" movement during heat cycles vs. traditional 3D "Floating" design, with the advantage of more effective brake torque transmittal (no slippage) and "No" noise as opposed to the common knowledge of others' "Floating" rotors.

We set a new standard of building a better two piece rotor that you can see and understand why.