W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

Air filter box problem and P2187 code

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Old Feb 10, 2018 | 07:24 PM
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2007 E63 Amg
Air filter box problem and P2187 code

Hi All,

Last week I decided to replace the air filters in my 2007 E63 with Mann filters. I tightened one of the screws on passenger side filter box too much and stripped a thread. Today I got a check engine with P2187 code. I am blaming that screw.
How can I fix the box? Should I buy the whole new air filter box assembly, or is there a way to fix that stripped thread?
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Old Feb 10, 2018 | 08:32 PM
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Same thing happend to me, I just took everything apart again and made sure the filter was seated properly and cleared the codes and it hasnt come back.
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Old Feb 10, 2018 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by EvoTechnik
Same thing happend to me, I just took everything apart again and made sure the filter was seated properly and cleared the codes and it hasnt come back.
Do you mean you overturned the screw too, or the code showed up?
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Old Feb 10, 2018 | 09:09 PM
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Which screw did you strip? Besides the the stripped screw, do you have anything else taken apart or disconnected? P2187 is for Bank 1 (Passenger side) lean. That vehicle has 2 MAF sensors. Could a piece of dirt or debris gotten on the passenger side MAF while changing the filters? If the amount of air restriction (No air filter assembly) is changed while running, this can cause a lean or rich code, The fuel trim adaptions need to be reset after everything is reassembled and installed and the codes are cleared.
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Old Feb 10, 2018 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by GrumpyDad
Which screw did you strip? Besides the the stripped screw, do you have anything else taken apart or disconnected? P2187 is for Bank 1 (Passenger side) lean. That vehicle has 2 MAF sensors. Could a piece of dirt or debris gotten on the passenger side MAF while changing the filters? If the amount of air restriction (No air filter assembly) is changed while running, this can cause a lean or rich code, The fuel trim adaptions need to be reset after everything is reassembled and installed and the codes are cleared.
Thanks for input. The screw is the one close to the sensor on the passenger side box. I didn’t replace anything else. Just replaced the filter. Will open again and check for debris. I changed the filter last week. But today was the first time on highway since then and I had few 40-90 accelerations. An hour later the check engine came on.
Can that stripped screw be fixed? Maybe I should find bigger screw?
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Old Feb 10, 2018 | 09:23 PM
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Can you post a photo?
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Rovel


Do you mean you overturned the screw too, or the code showed up?
I had a stripped screw on the left side of the passenger side side box after I swapped out my filters for AFE filters. I re adjusted them and cleared the codes and it went away. Hasnt come back since.
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 12:55 PM
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Did you also pull the charcoal filters? They don't really do much and there have been claims of people picking up some power from it.
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by GrumpyDad
Can you post a photo?
I am posting a picture of the screw that I stripped. I am pointing at it. I tried to lift that part and it was sitting tight. Perhaps not tight enough and there is enough leak for the sensor to pick up.
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by EvoTechnik
I had a stripped screw on the left side of the passenger side side box after I swapped out my filters for AFE filters. I re adjusted them and cleared the codes and it went away. Hasnt come back since.
Thanks. Bought JB Weld plastic adhesive. Will try to fill the hole that a screw goes into and try tightening the screw again. Will aso make sure everything is sitting properly
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 01:37 PM
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As long as the cover sits flat against the housing, that in itself should not cause the check engine light and codes. I see many MBZ's with stripped or broken air filter housings, it's kind of a cheap or weak design. The dense foam border of the filter element usually seals fine. After you complete the repair, I would clear the codes, drive the car as you normally do, and see if the same code comes back. If you have access to a scan tool or someone who does, I would copy down the freeze frame data. That way if the same code comes back you have some data to compare it to. Sometimes once is an anomaly, but in this case, twice will confirm a problem. See what happens. Good Luck.
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by GrumpyDad
As long as the cover sits flat against the housing, that in itself should not cause the check engine light and codes. I see many MBZ's with stripped or broken air filter housings, it's kind of a cheap or weak design. The dense foam border of the filter element usually seals fine. After you complete the repair, I would clear the codes, drive the car as you normally do, and see if the same code comes back. If you have access to a scan tool or someone who does, I would copy down the freeze frame data. That way if the same code comes back you have some data to compare it to. Sometimes once is an anomaly, but in this case, twice will confirm a problem. See what happens. Good Luck.
Thanks a lot. Will try to take it apart, make sure everything is clean including the sensor itself, and that everything sits as it should.

I asked the guy from Autozone to clear the code but he said he wasn’t allowed to. When you say access to scan tool, do you mean the OBD scanner or something more sophisticated?
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 03:02 PM
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A generic scan tool can clear codes. Many of them can view freeze frame data. There are many for under $100 (Autel has many). This one on Amazon is a great tool just to keep in your trunk.
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AL519-AutoLink-Enhanced-Reader/dp/B007XE5LTG/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518379018&sr=1-5&keywords=autel+scan+tool https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AL519-AutoLink-Enhanced-Reader/dp/B007XE5LTG/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518379018&sr=1-5&keywords=autel+scan+tool
. Don't get me wrong. It is not ultra sophisticated, but is very user friendly, and will provide you a lot of info. Remember, when you clear codes, you clear the freeze frame data too.
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 03:48 PM
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You can also clear codes with a cheap OBDII reader and the Torque app. Not the most high tech way of doing it but it's cheap. I think I paid around $5 for the Torque app.

Reader:
https://www.amazon.com/Foseal-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B00W0SDLRY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VDQG1N5ZMNACQMCAN00F https://www.amazon.com/Foseal-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B00W0SDLRY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VDQG1N5ZMNACQMCAN00F
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 08:38 PM
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A quick update. Took the filter box apart today again. There was some debris and a big leaf stuck to the filter right where the sensor is.

Assembled it back and the code is gone. Hope it doesn’t come back. Haven’t used the JB weld product yet.

Thanks for all suggestions.
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 09:22 PM
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Also while your in there you should also use some MAF cleaner and spray it down and clean it.
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