216.6K Miles and I got the M156 Valve Bucket Tap
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 17
From: San Jose, CA
2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
216.6K Miles and I got the M156 Valve Bucket Tap
Ladies and Gents,
Given I have 216.6k miles on my E63 and know every sound it makes well. Pretty clear my driver side bank has a valve bucket that is not happy.. How loud is it?? Loud enough to cause the CEL light to turn because the knock sensor was set off. Repair is about $4.5K in parts. Looking into labor, it just did not make sense. Add another $5K-$7K. Probably worth more than the car. So, I am going to DIY.
Main thing I am missing for information is order to tighten the cam caps. Which I will find. I will pull the valve cover off this weekend and we can all look at what may be the highest mileage M156 on the board.
Oil changes with 0W-40 about every 6K-7.5K miles. Going with the updated parts for the M156. If anyone has the MB PN for the M159 valve buckets I would appreciate it. The Wiestec M159 buckets are $1K and the updated parts for the M156 are $0.6K. Yes, I know, but as the cost grows the ROI drops quickly. Still need to decide on using their cap and adjuster bolts.
No, I am not changing the head bolts. Too much to go wrong and again throw the costs out of site.
Stay tuned and wish me luck.
Given I have 216.6k miles on my E63 and know every sound it makes well. Pretty clear my driver side bank has a valve bucket that is not happy.. How loud is it?? Loud enough to cause the CEL light to turn because the knock sensor was set off. Repair is about $4.5K in parts. Looking into labor, it just did not make sense. Add another $5K-$7K. Probably worth more than the car. So, I am going to DIY.
Main thing I am missing for information is order to tighten the cam caps. Which I will find. I will pull the valve cover off this weekend and we can all look at what may be the highest mileage M156 on the board.
Oil changes with 0W-40 about every 6K-7.5K miles. Going with the updated parts for the M156. If anyone has the MB PN for the M159 valve buckets I would appreciate it. The Wiestec M159 buckets are $1K and the updated parts for the M156 are $0.6K. Yes, I know, but as the cost grows the ROI drops quickly. Still need to decide on using their cap and adjuster bolts.
No, I am not changing the head bolts. Too much to go wrong and again throw the costs out of site.
Stay tuned and wish me luck.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,249
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From: Richmond, CA
2001 E320 Wagon, 2006 LBZ Silverado, 2007 E63 (sold), 2001 E55 (sold)
I think the part number for the SLS lifters is 156 050 02 25 and I believe retail is about $25 each. According to my mechanic that's the part number for the updated M156 lifters and the same part number was showing when he looked up the SLS ones. If you want to go with the SLS Black Series lifters the p/n is 159 050 00 00. They retail at $47 each.
Head bolts actually aren't that expensive. It's just the labor. My mechanic got me a full set of the Elring updated head bolts for a little over $100.
edit: I confirmed with my mechanic that the updated M156 and SLS lifters had the same part number when he looked them up.
Head bolts actually aren't that expensive. It's just the labor. My mechanic got me a full set of the Elring updated head bolts for a little over $100.
edit: I confirmed with my mechanic that the updated M156 and SLS lifters had the same part number when he looked them up.
Last edited by Strigoi; Feb 21, 2018 at 11:37 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: PDX
1999 C43, 2008 P30 E63, 2014 SQ5, 2024 Model Y Performance
When I bought my E63 they replaced the head bolts, it's one of the reasons I bought it. I was there when they did it, it only took a couple hours and they didn't need to remove the heads. The bolts were around $100 or so.
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From: Worldwide
2007 Mercedes E63 AMG
lifters are less than 1k....you should only be spending 4-5k total if you are also replacing both camshafts otherwise they're really screwing you on price.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,249
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From: Richmond, CA
2001 E320 Wagon, 2006 LBZ Silverado, 2007 E63 (sold), 2001 E55 (sold)
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Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: San Jose, CA
2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
Can you tell me the order "they" replaced them and the torque setting "they" used. It is not the cost of the bolts, its the cost of screwing it up.
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Super Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 672
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From: Massachusetts
2007 E63 Amg
At 216K miles on the clock, are you on your original head blots? If yes, glad to hear they live that long. I am so worried that mine hasn't been done. Can't find an indy in MA who can confidently say that they can replace them for me.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,249
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From: Richmond, CA
2001 E320 Wagon, 2006 LBZ Silverado, 2007 E63 (sold), 2001 E55 (sold)
What kind of ****ty indy's do you have there that can't pull a pair of heads? It's not that difficult, just time consuming. If they don't have the cam tools you can pick them up for around $100 on Amazon.
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 672
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From: Massachusetts
2007 E63 Amg
Well, it is been a challenge. I called around and spoke about m156 head bolt issues. None said that they knew the issue or that they have done it before. The best answer was “we should be able, should not be a problem “ which doesn’t instill confidence. I think there are some nuances such as 45 degrees turn, then order in which you should unbolt and bolt things, putting screws in cam adjusters etc. I know this from this forum and YouTube. Looking for indy’s who know more than I do.
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Joined: Aug 2012
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From: DownEast Maine
CLS 55 AMG E500 ML320
Order really isn't an issue. With heads you need to start in the middle and work your way out evenly. If you start on the ends, you bow it slightly and you are trying to push the "bubble" out of the middle. Not as critical when replacing bolts one at a time because the head is already torqued flat. With cams the trick is to keep them even because they are brittle. the more steps you pull them down with the better. Picture yourself trying to keep it straight on the way down. same with loosening them.
The only problem I see with the head bolts is breaking one that's weak. Then you will have to pull that head. If that happens you REALLY did need to replace the bolts.
The only problem I see with the head bolts is breaking one that's weak. Then you will have to pull that head. If that happens you REALLY did need to replace the bolts.
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: New Zealand
I would rather do the job myself than give it to a "should do " mechanic. Just replace them one by one. There is a fantastic thread in the CLS63 forum where a member documented the task. Once you understand how the timing works on this engine and how to use the tools then it is just following a recipe. Get WIS.
Otherwise find a better shop with some experience. Or cough up to MB but they will demand taking the heads off and possibly taking the whole engine out and multiply your cost by 8.
Otherwise find a better shop with some experience. Or cough up to MB but they will demand taking the heads off and possibly taking the whole engine out and multiply your cost by 8.
