When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
We pay $47 per litre bottle of transmission fluid here from the dealer, I demand raised star embossing and fluid graphics! Of course now I just import fuch titan 134 from ebay at a fraction of the cost.
just picked up 9 qts of those high speed bottles for $7 each. Was concerned a bit that no where on bottle says synthetic; had to call back dealer parts rep to verify.
I didn’t notice that either. When we did the maintenance chubby buddy brought the oil from work so I figured he knew what he was brining. lol
We pay $47 per litre bottle of transmission fluid here from the dealer, I demand raised star embossing and fluid graphics! Of course now I just import fuch titan 134 from ebay at a fraction of the cost.
Wow. For that much a bottle they should come to your house and pour it in the car for you!
We pay $47 per litre bottle of transmission fluid here from the dealer, I demand raised star embossing and fluid graphics! Of course now I just import fuch titan 134 from ebay at a fraction of the cost.
And here I was passing up on $13 a bottle of trans fluid at the dealer today. Going to run back there tomorrow and grab 6 and will be thinking of you tw2!
Took a break and went to Run to The Sun car show in Mrytle Beach SC last weekend. Great place to vacation and tons of things to do for your family if they don’t want to look at cars while you do. https://www.myrtlebeach.com/myrtle-b...16/2019-03-21/
The show runs from Thursday-Saturday and covers mostly older cars up to through 90s. This show is massive and covers a full city block. It’s held in a parking lot of an old Mall that was torn down years ago. All of the parking spaces fill up and now they have started parking people in the footprint of where the building use to be. Last years count was 3300, yes that’s correct. They also have venders that attend. There’s so much to see it’s hard to take pics. I did see 2 Mercedes I liked while there.
Don’t remember the model or what the power train is.
I have never seen one of these all the years I’ve been going to shows. Beaumont SD (Sport Deluxe) Canadian built. Big Block engine. Basically an SS Chevelle. Front nose and grille different than an SS Chevelle. Check out the emblems in the steering wheel. Dash is completely different than a SS Chevelle. Big block.
Who doesn’t love Andy!
Last edited by tlambert; Mar 28, 2019 at 01:08 PM.
I didn’t know if the engine and trans mounts had ever been replaced. The car only has 58,000 miles so I felt they might be the OG ones.
Knowing the car had ripped up the 1320 a few times...lol....we decided to replace them while we’re into the recon.
Had I known prior to buying the new MB mounts, about the billet mounts that drop the engine 10mm giving more header space to the floor. I would probably have bought those.
The mounts that come out were OG MB and didn’t look bad at all. They were a little short on height but that was a good thing that I didn’t realize......more on that later.
=13.33px
Its been awhile since I’ve updated my thread so it’s time.
I posted before about my ARH LTHs hitting the floor and then installing MB new mounts.
Prior to installing the new mounts I was also having the steering joint hit a header tube when making a left turn while accelerating.
I’ve read some old posts from years ago that described this situation and that ARH made an updated left header to remedy this and that ARH was replacing the left side for the owners. I can’t totally confirm that but besides what was posted.
I was also having the left race cat bang the bottom of the floor. And replacing the engine mounts was not going to stop that totally. I had already “massaged” the heat shield on the left side and that didn’t stop it.
So while installing the new mounts I decided add some clearance to the header tube so the steering shaft doesn’t rub anymore.
I also decided to delete the race cats as I live in a state that doesn’t smog test.
The steering shaft doesn’t rub anymore and after removing the cat, that took 98% of the banging away although the collector on the LTH still rubs some under hard tire gripping acceleration.
The new mounts are stiffer and keep the engine from lifting up but at the same time makes the tolerances closer between the header collector and the floor. My son told me to drive it some as the weight of the engine being on the mounts should settle and elevate some of the issue.
The best thing I could have done and recommend to anyone installing LTHs is to use the billet engine mounts from east coast euro that lower the engine 10mm. I feel that it would have taking care of the header collector and race cat from hitting the floor.
The steering shaft / header pic shows the area that was rubbing.
Red areas of header to be clearanced. Yellow of the shaft that was rubbing.
Race cats Right side of pic shows the top of the left cat where it was hitting the heat shield.
I don’t want to make this into a 5 page header topic there are enough of those for sure. Lol.
This is to post what’s happening in my case and hopefully help others that run into a similar situation.
Last edited by tlambert; Jan 24, 2020 at 02:05 PM.
+1 regarding going with the East Coast Euro motor mounts when doing the headers. Glad I listened to that advice. I haven't had any rattling or rubbing on my headers since day 1.
Race cats removed and installed the replacement pipes. It picked up a little sound at idle (I still have the resonator and stock mufflers) and a little at WOT but nothing obnoxious.
To install the “test pipes” the exhaust from the end of the headers back had to come off. The exhaust system was dirty and stained. Looking at those new pipes going on was killing me and OCD kicked in....... Why not polish the exhaust while it’s out right? Lol. By the time I made it to the headers I said the hell with them. Lol.
Washed up the system with some wheel cleaner including the inside the tips. Stood it up and let it dry out for an hour or so.
Polished up the tips they came out super nice.
Inside the tips were cleaned and sprayed them with some alumiblast paint. That lasted for about the third drive but hey! It looked good til then. Haha
Very nice, looks like new underneath. These W211 AMGs are an incredible value, they have a ton of tuning potential and the M113k is very robust along with the 722.6. Any issues with NOS?
Thank you sir!
I have not run the car myself with NOS since I bought it. That was done by a previous owner. I haven’t had any issues with the car and it is still extremely fast.
Smart, as you said its a rocket without the NOS. I had a stock 05 E55 and the look on peoples faces when you passed them was priceless. Still today its a relatively unknown sleeper. Love these cars.
If I was buying that car, and saw that, I would smile as I handed over the check. I took mine off and wire brushed the joint, then added a thin layer of high quality motorcycle chain lube to prevent corrosion, then a layer of silver based heatsink paste.
If I was buying that car, and saw that, I would smile as I handed over the check. I took mine off and wire brushed the joint, then added a thin layer of high quality motorcycle chain lube to prevent corrosion, then a layer of silver based heatsink paste.
One of the first things I did to the car was to install a scattershield.
Chris (latemodel21) made these and was or still is selling these. I’ve spoke with him before and he is super nice to deal with. https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...er-pulley.html
Doesnt seem to be much talk about these lately but some may agree or think it’s just hype. To me it was cheap insurance to keep from destroying other components on the engine if the SC clutch springs came loose.
When I first got the car I trailered it home because the tires weren’t safe to drive it 5 hrs. Once home I only drove the car around short distances and to do some smoking burnouts on what was left of the tires. I heard a rattling noise after parking it in the lot at my shop and started looking for the trouble.
This is what I found.
Bearing went out in the BWK.
Replacement bearing for the aluminum pulley.
I read about the factory double pulleys, one being plastic and it failing. So after getting everything off I checked it out and it was broken also. I replaced both factory ones with UPDs double aluminum set.
Front pulley is the plastic one.
Look at the pulley on the right it’s broken in 2 pieces.
I didn’t know if the SC pulley bearing had ever been replaced so since I had all the other pulleys and belts off I decided to replace it also. Got it changed out with a new Nachi bearing from eBay. I used a cheap press from HF to press out the old one. Heated the pulley in an old mini oven and stuck the new bearing in the freezer for a little bit. Pulled them both out and slid the bearing in. Super easy! Got it all installed and much quieter than before although it didn’t sound bad before swapping it. I didn’t have an installed pic but it looks like the first pic! Hahaha.
Pulley looked in good shape and no bad signs of damage on the bearing.
Cheap HF press.
I really think that the bearing would come out if the pulley was heated around the outside at the grooves with a heat gun. Then hammer it out from the back while supporting it on the front so the bearing could drop out.
Out with the old!
You can get these bearings from eBay for less than $50.
Placed the new bearing in the freezer to help contract it.
Placed the Pulley in the mini oven to help expand it.
Overall the car was in good shape when I bought it just not totally maintained and detailed. I’m trying to take care of the engine maintenance items and work in the engine bay detail at the same time. I’ll be starting on the body corrections also.
The SC is dirty as is the surge tanks so I’m going to pull them and do some painting. Going to leave the SC on and detail it.
Removing the valve covers too and replace the gaskets.
2005 E55
The screw of the hose clamps were installed up on the Y pipe and it rubbed 2 holes in the hood insulation. I’ll replace the insulation before I’m done. I also noticed the inner wire in the flexible tube had come out of its groove and was letting the hose collapse some.
Last edited by tlambert; Feb 11, 2020 at 01:54 PM.
Valve covers are off and they don’t look bad inside. Heads are nice and clean also.
Picked up a set of MB gaskets, and sealer for the job.
Im going to prep the surge tanks and valve covers for paint while they’re off.
M113 VC gaskets
Last edited by tlambert; Feb 11, 2020 at 01:57 PM.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
